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It’s certainly not new that Toyota is having problems with their vehicles. Week after week the mainstream media seems to come out with a new “update,” much of it simply quoting old news. Let’s take a look at the facts regarding the Toyota recalls and useful information for owners of these vehicles.

The first set of recalls started with what is termed the Floor Mat Recall. In this recall Toyota determined that the gas pedals in some of their vehicles were getting hung up with the floor mats on the front driver’s side, causing unintended acceleration. The next recall was the Gas Pedal Recall. After depressing the gas pedal in some vehicles, it did not completely return to its original position. Next came the Prius/HS250h hybrid ABS Braking Recall, prompted by owners who complained that their ABS brakes felt like they weren’t working adequately. And finally, there is a minor recall of some Tacoma pickups for faulty front driveshafts on 4WD vehicles. There is also an investigation being launched into Corollas for malfunctioning power steering, but there is no recall to date.

Floor Mat Recall

Vehicles involved in the floor mat recall include (info from Toyota’s website):

• 2005-2010 Avalon
• 2007-2010 Camry
• 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2008-2010 Highlander
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2004-2009 Prius
• 2005-2010 Tacoma
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2009-2010 VENZA
• 2009-2010 Pontiac Vibe

Owners of vehicles covered by the floor mat recall should take out any removable driver’s floor mat and not replace it with any other floor mat until they receive the vehicle-based remedy.

After you receive a notification from Toyota that the recall remedy for your vehicle is available, you should take your vehicle to an authorized Toyota dealer. Dealer personnel have been specially trained to implement the following vehicle-based remedy:
Toyota service techs will either modify or replace the accelerator pedals on the subject vehicles to address the risk of floor mat entrapment, even when an older-design all weather floor mat or other inappropriate mat is improperly attached, or is placed on top of another floor mat. Floor surface modifications are also being considered and will be included in the remedy plan for any model for which it is deemed appropriate. For the Camry and Avalon models involved, the shape of the floor surface underneath will also be reconfigured to increase the space between the accelerator pedal and the floor.

Gas Pedal Recall

Toyota discovered that there was a problem with excessive friction buildup on the bottom of the gas pedal of certain vehicles. This condition can cause the gas pedal to stick and, in some instances, not return completely to the original position after being depressed. This recall is in full swing.

Toyota’s accelerator pedal recall is confined to the following Toyota Division vehicles (info from Toyota’s website):

• Certain 2009-2010 RAV4
• Certain 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2005-2010 Avalon
• Certain 2007-2010 Camry
• Certain 2010 Highlander
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2008-2010 Sequoia

No Lexus Division or Scion vehicles are affected by this recall action. Also not affected are Toyota Prius, Tacoma, Sienna, Venza, Solara, Yaris, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser and Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids. Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids are not involved in this action. Further, Camry, RAV4, Corolla and Highlander vehicles with VINs that begin with “J” are not involved.

If you have noticed that your accelerator pedal is hard to depress, slow to return, or is not smooth during operation, the vehicle should be stopped at the nearest safe location, the engine shut off and a Toyota dealer contacted for assistance.

What if you experience a sticking accelerator pedal while driving?

Each circumstance may vary, and drivers must use their best judgment, but Toyota recommends taking one of the following actions:

If you need to stop immediately, the vehicle can be controlled by stepping on the brake pedal with both feet using firm and steady pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal as it will deplete the vacuum utilized for the power brake assist. Shift the transmission gear selector to the Neutral (N) position and use the brakes to make a controlled stop at the side of the road and turn off the engine. If unable to put the vehicle in Neutral, turn the engine OFF. This will not cause loss of steering or braking control, but the power assist to these systems will be lost. If the vehicle is equipped with an Engine Start/Stop button, firmly and steadily push the button for at least three seconds to turn off the engine. Do NOT tap the Engine Start/Stop button. If the vehicle is equipped with a conventional key ignition, turn the ignition key to the ACC position to turn off the engine. Do NOT remove the key from the ignition as this will lock the steering wheel.

Prius/HS250h ABS Brake Recall

(as it appears on Toyota’s website)

Toyota Announces Voluntary Recall on 2010 Model-Year Prius and 2010 Lexus HS 250h Vehicles to Update ABS Software

TORRANCE, Calif., February 8, 2010 – Toyota Motor Sales (TMS), U.S.A., Inc, today announced it will conduct a voluntary safety recall on approximately 133,000 2010 Model Year Prius vehicles and 14,500 Lexus Division 2010 HS 250h vehicles to update software in the vehicle’s anti-lock brake system (ABS). No other Toyota, Lexus, or Scion vehicles are involved in this recall.

The ABS, in normal operation, engages and disengages rapidly (many times per second) as the control system senses and reacts to tire slippage. Some 2010 model year Prius and 2010 HS 250h owners have reported experiencing inconsistent brake feel during slow and steady application of brakes on rough or slick road surfaces when the ABS is activated in an effort to maintain tire traction.

Toyota has responded to owner concerns with a running production change for 2010 Prius that was introduced last month, improving the ABS system’s response time, as well as the system’s overall sensitivity to tire slippage. The production change for the HS 250h is planned for later this month.

The recall will allow Toyota dealers to perform the software update on 2010 Prius vehicles sold prior to this running production change. Only Prius vehicles produced since May 2009 and all HS 250h vehicles are subject to this recall. First- and second-generation Prius vehicles use a different ABS system and are not involved in this campaign. The ABS system on the Lexus HS 250h is similar in design to the Prius. The software adjustment planned for HS 250h production and dealer modification is being finalized and will be announced very soon. Toyota will begin mailing letters to Prius owners included in this recall next week and HS 250h owners within the next few weeks, to let them know when to bring their vehicles into a dealership. Owners will only receive a letter if their vehicle is involved in the recall.

Are Toyota and Lexus bad cars?

I say a hearty NO! The Toyota Motor Company’s reputation is built on a foundation of quality and safety. I believe it is still the basis of the company today and Toyota is moving swiftly to address these issues. The bottom line? It is still a fine car in spite of the recent problems. Toyota will make good on the faulty cars and will rebound as a safety and quality leader again in an effort to regain market dominance. Quite frankly, I think now is a great time to buy a Toyota. Last week, according to Kelly Blue Book, Toyota pricing had dropped an average of 4% across the board. This means a savings of $350 to $700, in addition to the 0% financing (which you never saw until now for a Toyota product). And look for other incentives in the near future to entice buyers back into the showrooms. As I see it, there will be some pretty good deals out there for some fine automobiles.

Well, that’s pretty much the skinny on the Toyota recalls. Call your local Toyota dealer with your VIN number so they can input it into Toyota’s database to see if your vehicle is involved in any of these actions. Or you can go online to: Pressroom.Toyota.com and you will find updates as they come hot off the press. Hope this helps clear things up a bit.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I purchased a used 2007 Dodge Caravan SXT – V6 with 21,000 miles. It gets 19 MPG in the city and only 20 MPG in the country. What can I do to get better mileage? I follow your advice for maintenance and welcome your advice. Thanks.
Ruth from Hamburg, NY

Ruth,
Fuel mileage is subjective to the driving environment, how the vehicle is driven, how it is maintained, and what kind of work it performs. First, make sure the performance system is up to snuff (sparkplugs & wires, air and fuel filter, breather element, and anything else related to the performance system). If these items are not replaced at the proper intervals, fuel mileage will suffer. Based on the low mileage of this vehicle, the plugs could be “carboned up” from lack of use. Have them cleaned and re-gapped. What else can you do to increase gas mileage? Inflate the tires to max inflation rate so they offer less rolling resistance; replace the air filter with a high flow filter like a K&N; and replace the engine oil, transmission fluid, and differential lubricants with synthetic lubricants. All this coupled with maintaining the performance system should net you a few more miles per gallon. Best to you.
Tom

Lee,
If what you outlined here is accurate, then I agree with you. It is entirely too much oil consumption for this engine. Excessive oil consumption is the result of poor piston ring sealing, bad valve guide seals, or sloppy valve guides. If the PCV system were clogged with sludge, then the crankcase would be pressurized. In this case, the oil would be pushed up into the breather system and into the air intake to be burned. Call John Domagala at the NFADA (Niagara Frontier Dealer’s Assoc). He is the director of AUTOCAP (Automotive Consumer Action Program) and John will get the Chrysler Zone Rep involved. Hopefully you will get some satisfaction. John’s number is 716-631-8510. Tell him I told you to call. Success to you.
Tom

Amy,
Let’s deal with one thing at a time. (1) The sloppy ignition key issue is probably due to a worn lock cylinder in the steering column. This requires replacement of the lock/key (removal of the steering wheel and air bag are part of this procedure to access the necessary parts). (2) The wipers have to be checked for a bad internal motor ground or (if so equipped) the wiper delay could be bad (3) The whirring sound by the belt could be a bad serpentine idler, an alternator or power steering pulley, or worn bearings in the water pump shaft. Get it into a shop that can address your concerns … one at a time. Good luck.
Tom

Lillie,
You give me no year, make, or model so my answer will be in general. The first thing that comes to mind is the thermostat. When it goes bad it can either stick closed (causing overheating) or open. If stuck open, the engine doesn’t get hot and thus the heater doesn’t get warm. Also, heater malfunction can also be caused by a problem with a duct door (these doors direct the heated air into the vehicle’s cabin). Finally, in the case of climate-controlled systems, a faulty electronic control module can cause heater malfunction. Hope this helps.
Tom

Randy,
Check the inner axle shaft CV joints. Heavy vibration occurs when they get worn and loose, especially under acceleration. Other common causes of front-end vibration include: loose/worn struts and/or strut bearing plates, loose ball joints, tie rod ends, rack mounts, or internally worn rack. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘88 Mazda RX7 rotary car. I stabilized the gas and backed it into a dry cold garage for storage over the winter. Will this be okay, or should I start the car once in a while?
Mike from Buffalo

Mike,
I like to start a vehicle that’s sitting over the winter at least twice a month and drive it at least once a month, if possible. Why? To keep seals and mating surfaces lubricated. If left too long without running, seals dry up and mating surfaces (when started dry in an engine that’s lost its oil prime) suffer premature wear. In addition, engines, transmissions, and drivetrain components operate better when not deprived of the precious lube they’ve come to rely upon for proper operation. Start two times each month, warm to operating temperatures, and drive when possible. This regimen will ensure that your Mazda keeps going HUMMMMMMMMMMM!
Tom

Bob,
I checked my ALLDATA database for anything pertaining to a no-start condition with this truck and found nothing. An engine needs three things to start: fuel, ignition, and air. Start with an ignition system check: coils, sparkplugs, and wires. If nothing is evident in the visual inspection, then do a computer scan in order to see if there are any codes in the memory. If the system is clean of codes, then the next step is a fuel system check. Hook a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail in the injection system. If fuel pressure is low then the fuel pump could be bad or you could have a plugged fuel filter. If the fuel system is found to be in good working order, then further engine diagnostics are in order to find out if it has proper compression and that the valve timing is in order. You should find the cause of your no-start condition in one of these areas. Good luck.
Tom

Tom,
No poltergeist here. You probably have a bad starter motor. When the armature shaft bushings wear out inside the starter, the armature is allowed to drag on the field windings. This condition eventually causes an electrical dead spot (or zone) to develop in the starter. Sometimes the armature lands on this dead zone after starting the engine, resulting in a no-start condition when you turn the key. Then like magic, after turning the key several times, the armature gets slightly bumped by the solenoid cycling and, like magic, the starter works. Have the starter removed and bench tested. Best to you.
Tom

Bunny,
You did not give me year, make, or model vehicle so my answer will be in general. No, shifting from drive to neutral will not do any internal damage to an automatic transmission. The only thing I can think of that could be affected would be premature shift cable or linkage failure from constant shifting. Otherwise your friend may shift away to his heart’s content!
Tom

Pooh,
Check the transmission fluid level. If it’s low, fill it to the fill line and drive it. If the problem is solved, then low fluid was the cause and you have to find the leak and fix it. If it still slips after filling the fluid, then there’s a problem inside the transmission. Perhaps the low fluid level caused internal damage to the bands or clutches. Also, check the fluid color; It should be red and clean. If it’s dark brown or black the unit has been overheated and might need rebuilding. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
There is a scrubbing noise coming from the left rear of my Toyota Camry LE. I had it checked out but they can’t find anything wrong. Please help! It sounds like some part is rubbing against another part. When I drive into my driveway it gets louder. When I am driving down the road, it is not as loud but I can still hear it.
Mary from Philadelphia, PA

Mary,
You didn’t tell me the year of your Camry LE so I could only guess that it is an ‘02 or older, because that was the last year Camry was made with an LE trim. Also, that car came with either 4 wheel disc brakes or disc/drum combination. In either case I would check the emergency brake cable to see if it’s frozen. A frozen cable will keep the rear brake/s applied. I would also check the backing plates on the rear, as both types of systems have backing plates that could bend and rub against the disc or drum. Finally, I would check for a bad rear suspension spring or strut that could be causing the body to come down on the tire/s when going over a curb or bump. That’s the best info I can give you because I don’t know the year of your car. Success to you.
Tom

Rich,
According to my ALLDATA database, the door lock mechanism is roughly $135. As for labor, it’s only an hour for each door. I would get a breakdown of the repair, specifically the labor. Where do they justify the additional $320? If they stand firm on the estimate given, then they are charging way too much for the lock replacement and I would consult a AAA Approved Auto Repair Facility that specializes in foreign car repairs. You can find one through your local AAA club.
Tom

Cookie,
Your description of Emeril was superb! Have the struts and strut mounts checked. It sounds like they are worn out. I would also check the sway bar bushings because, when they wear out, the sway bar can bang on the underside of the car, especially when going over bumps. As for a shop you can trust, consult your local AAA Club for a AAA Approved Repair Facility in your area. Success to you.
Tom

Kathleen,
The following TSB was issued from Ford on this very issue for your car:
2004 Mercury Sable V6-3.0L A/C – Erratic / Inoperative Blower Motor
TSB 04-15-3 08/09/04
WATER IN THE BLOWER CASE – BLOWER MOTOR
AND/OR RESISTOR FAILURE – VEHICLES BUILT
5/1/2001 TO 12/15/2003
FORD:
2001-2004 Taurus
MERCURY:
2001-2004 Sable ISSUE:
Some vehicles built between 5/1/2001 and 12/15/2003 may exhibit water in the blower case or on the passenger side floor, an inoperative climate control blower motor, a motor that operates on high speed only, and/or a blower motor resistor failure.
ACTION Inspect and seal cowl area and install Rain-Hat Extension Seal. Inspect and replace blower motor and/or blower motor resistor if there is evidence of water/corrosion.
Take it to your local dealer to have this service performed and the rain hat installed to stop water from entering the blower motor case; this will stop your problem. Best to you.
Tom

Steven,
Given the labor intensive nature of this operation (6 hrs according to the book) plus the cost of the evaporator ($432) and the cost of new refrigerant and an oil charge, plus evacuation and reclaiming the system, I understand why it is so expensive. Short of doing it yourself, I doubt you will find a better price (much less anyone willing to embark on disassembling your dashboard to replace the evaporator). Try your local AAA club to find a AAA Qualified Repair Facility near you to give you another quote. And remember, cheaper is not necessarily better. The shop must have the equipment, tools, and know-how to perform such an operation… and for that you pay.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Ford CEO Alan Mulally & Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi on the Ford stand at NAIAS

Chevy Camaro SS

Honda CRZ

Ford CEO Alan Mullaly and Scott Monty answering reader questions live from NAIAS

2010 Chevy Cruz

2010 Ford Focus

BMW ActiveE photos

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘94 Mitsubishi 3000GT-SL with 121,000 miles. At about 95 – 100,000 miles it started burning oil (no leaks obvious) with blue smoke in the exhaust on startup. In the last couple of months the oil consumption is rapidly increasing. On “general principles” I replaced the PCV valve recently to no avail. On a bulletin board for these cars, there has been talk of valve oil seal problems. Could the seals get to the point where they fail completely and oil consumption take a sudden leap?
Spencer from Australia (Down Under)

Spencer,
Yes, seals could harden and break up, causing oil consumption to accelerate greatly as oil spills down the valve stems and into the combustion chambers to be burned. Pull a valve cover and inspect the valve seals. It’s time to delve deeper into engine diagnostics with cylinder leak-down and compression testing.
Good luck, mate!
Tom

Spencer asks a question that many vehicles experience, namely oil consumption at high mileage. What are the causes? What diagnostic tests should be performed?

Causes of oil consumption

Bad valve seals: The valves are located in the cylinder head above the combustion chamber. Oil is pumped at 50 to 80 psi of pressure into the top of the head, lubricating the valve-train. The valves have seals that stop the flow of oil down into the engine when the valve is open. If the seals fail, oil flows down into the combustion chamber and is burned.

Worn valve guides: The valves are guided by a small cylindrical chamber called a valve guide. These guides wear over time causing eccentricity (slop). The excess gap allows oil to flow down the valve stem and into the combustion chamber to be burned. You might be wondering why the valve seals don’t stop the oil. Because the gap is too large for the seal to work.

Pressurized crankcase due to clogged PCV or breather system: Your car’s engine is a giant pump, therefore it must breathe. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system does just this; it allows the engine to exhaust the excess crankcase pressure that builds up (a natural phenomenon of the internal combustion engine). These gases are captured and fed back into the engine to be burned. Carbon (a by-product of engines) can build up in the PCV system, clogging the breathing passages. This, in turn, pressurizes the oil pan and pushes oil up into the fuel delivery system, where it is fed into the engine and burned.

Blow-by from worn piston rings: The pistons in your car’s engine have seals around them in the form of rings. These rings have two functions: (1) They seal the combustion chamber so that the precious power produced from the firing of the cylinder is not lost. (2) They provide vital lubrication to the cylinder walls. When the rings wear out the pressure from combustion reverses down into the oil pan. Pressure in the oil pan forces oil into the valve covers, through the breather system, back into the fuel delivery system, and into the engine to be burned.

Tracking down the cause of oil consumption

PCV system: Remove the PCV valve with the engine running. There should be a strong vacuum pulling on the valve. If there is no vacuum, the system is clogged with sludge and carbon. It should be cleaned and the valve replaced.

Valve stem seals and guides: Remove the valve cover and shine a strong light on each valve stem. If the seals are gone, then further inspection is warranted. Pressurize the cylinder and remove the valve spring to closely inspect for a worn valve guide evidenced by broken-up valve stem seals).

If nothing is found after checking for a clogged PCV system and valve stem seals & guides, then run a cylinder leak-down test. In this test, each cylinder is charged with 120 lbs of compressed air and the engine is monitored to determine where the air is escaping from the cylinder. If air is escaping from the crankcase, then the piston rings are worn. You can also perform a compression test. Remove the spark plugs and test each cylinder individually for the total PSI of compression. If you find that one cylinder is low, then wet test it. To wet test the cylinder, remove the gauge, squirt oil into the cylinder, and then retest it. If the compression in that cylinder comes up, then that cylinder has worn piston rings. How do we know this? Because when oil was squirted into the cylinder, it filled the gap between the worn rings and cylinder wall, sealing the ring gap and thus increasing compression. In this is the case, consider rebuilding or replacing the engine.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
Should I buy the extended warranty for my 2003 Buick? I was just advised that I should have purchased the warranty when I bought the car. How important is it?
Pat from Johnstown, PA

Pat,
Extended warranties are well worth the money if you keep the car for longer than the factory warranty covers the vehicle. Why? Because auto repair gets quite expensive when you consider electrical component repair/replacement, transmission/engine repairs, etc. When buying an extended warranty, make sure you buy from a company that has a good track record when it comes to paying claims. Also, find out if they do business with a lot of car dealerships and if they have been in business for a lot of years OR that they have serious capital to back up their coverage/claims. I recommend Warranty Direct because they meet the criteria I outlined above.
Tom

Mannie,
Why do you ask this question? Are you going for the Guinness Book of World Records for time lapsed between oil changes? Seriously, if engine oil is left in the engine too long, viscosity breakdown occurs (the oil loses its ability to lubricate the engine). Sludging will also occur due to the increased engine temperatures from friction caused by decreased lubrication. Stick to the recommended maintenance drain interval or, if you want to go longer between oil changes, switch to synthetic motor oil and change the oil every 7,000 miles. Good luck.
Tom

GR,
First of all, your car has electronic fuel injection (carburetors are a thing of the past since the late eighties). If the fuel delivery system were leaking, you would smell gas, so let’s rule out a fuel leak. It could be an engine oil leak, trans fluid leak, coolant leak, power steering fluid leak, or (most likely) a leak in the heater core. Start the diagnosis with a cooling system pressure test to see if the heater core is leaking. If it’s okay, then get the car up on a lift and check for a transmission or engine oil leak. Best to you.
Tom

Sandi,
There is no specific tune up schedule for your car. As a matter of fact, if you check the maintenance schedule, it will probably suggest to change your sparkplugs at 100,000 miles. I do not subscribe to this suggestion. I would remove the plugs every 25,000 miles, inspect and clean them, and re-gap. Then re-install the plugs, applying never-seize compound to the threads (and torquing them according to manufacturer’s specs). Also, make sure to change the air filters and breather elements according to manufacturer’s specs. This regimen will keep your chariot in tiptop running condition. Success to you.
Tom

Abdul,
Yes, I would flush the radiator, replace the thermostat, and refill with a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant and water. I would also flush the trans and replace the filter with an OEM quality one. Brake fluid and power steering fluid flushing are subject to condition. Check for the presence of rust or sediment in the brake master cylinder. If it’s clean, leave it alone. Check the power steering fluid for color and smell. If it’s clear and there’s no burnt smell, leave it alone. Using a gasoline with high sulfur content can cause the rotten egg smell. Try switching brands. Run a couple of tanks through and see if the smell goes away. If it doesn’t, have a diagnostic done because the engine is dumping more fuel into the engine than the catalytic converter can process (resulting in the rotten egg smell).
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘99 Chevy 1500 Suburban 4×4 with 102,000 miles. There is a whining sound coming from the rear when driving 55-65 mph. I had all the bearings replaced, and the ring & pinion gears show normal wear. Any suggestions?
Thanks,

Eddie from Miami

Eddie,
You failed to mention the rear pinion bearing. Have the lash and the up and down play checked for wear. Also, check the tire wear pattern on the rear tires. They could be cupped, which could also cause the whining.
Tom

Want a little cheese with that whine? (just a little bad humor here) On to Eddie’s question in detail.

What causes whining?
Whining can be caused by worn transmission or differential bearings or races (the surface the bearing rides on), a worn power steering or front transmission oil pump. A simple thorough inspection of the transmission, differential, and power steering system will reveal if there are any bad bearings.

Cupped tires can also cause whining. When tires are left unattended the balance goes out resulting in wheel tramp. In this condition, the heavy spot in the tire gains inertia as it spin causing the tire/wheel to bounce as it spins down the road. The tires develop a cupped tread wear pattern from this bouncing (or tramping). Ultimately it results in a whine. Sometimes rotating and rebalancing the tires will correct the whining problem over time.

Another cause of whining
Worn differential lubricant is another cause of whining. Some carmakers have come out with semi-synthetic gear lubricants that have a specific life and need to be changed according to schedule. If left in too long, they lose their lubricating properties and heat, friction, and whining ensue in the differential. Major gear damage will occur if left in too long.

Mechanically the truck is fine. You’ve rotated the tires, but still have the whine. Now what?
If you are sure the transmission, differential, and power steering are fine and you rotated the tires, it may be time to replace the tires if the noise is too much for you. Some tires have such an aggressive tread lug design that they simply cannot be quieted, so it may be time to buy a tire with a less aggressive tread. Light truck tires tend to be made of a stiffer, heavier rubber compound that lasts longer and is durable. However, the downside is that they are noisy and offer stiff ride characteristics. A less aggressive tread design in an all season or highway tire might be the ticket for you. But there are tradeoffs in making this move. Specifically, these types of tires don’t last as long as the heavy-duty truck tires, although they are much quieter and deliver a nicer ride. It is an individual’s decision. How much noise can you tolerate?

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Malibu LS. I recently had the front and rear rotors and pads replaced, as well as the rear calipers. About 750 miles later the brakes started squealing. The pads cost $50 each; the rotors were $46 each; the calipers were $79 each. I brought the car back to shop at once and they cleaned the brakes. However, they are still squealing. Any solutions?
Joe from Long Island

Joe,
Brake squeal is a common problem and the result of a high-pitched vibration of the pad/s. Either the pad anti-rattle clips are worn/broken or the pad insulators were not installed at the time of the brake job. Get the vehicle back to the shop and have these checked. Best to you.
Tom

Michael,
Yes, your driving pattern is a textbook case for using synthetic motor oil. When a vehicle sits without being driven much, acid and moisture accumulate in the crankcase, causing erosion of the main and rod bearings. Good synthetic motor oil guards against chemical and moisture contamination because of the chemically fortified base stock. I recommend either AMSOIL or Mobil One, (number one and two).
Tom

Don,
You will have to water-test the car’s body to find the leak. Get in the car with a light and have someone soak down the body with a water hose at the point where you think the water is entering the vehicle. Use the light to find where the water is coming in, and then seal the leak. It could be entering via a door, a window, or a windshield gasket. Success to you.
Tom

Susan,
Why would you take a vehicle with an obvious drivability/engine problem to a transmission specialist? That’s like going to a brain specialist for a broken arm (just wondering about your logic here). I can’t give you a specific direction to solve the stalling problem. However, I would suggest that you leave the vehicle with a shop that specializes in engine drivability for a few days so they can drive it with a scanner hooked up to it, and the tech can monitor what’s going on when the problem occurs. This is the best course of action given the erratic nature of your Durango’s malady.
Tom

Glenn,
First off, there was no such thing as a “T-Bucket Roadster” 90 years ago. The base vehicle that the T-Bucket was made from had to be something that was not modified (whether it was a pickup or some sort of coupe or sedan). I just want to get a clear understanding of what we’re looking at before proceeding forward with advice. That said, when buying any car (custom, modified or OEM) conduct a stem to stern inspection of the key systems (electrical, drivetrain, powertrain, suspension, brakes, undercarriage, etc). In addition, the inspection might include an engine compression test, electrical values of the charging/starting system, hydraulic test of the trans (if automatic), fluid samples of drivetrain components such as diffferential/s, transfer case, transaxle, and any gearboxes in the drivetrain. I might even go as far as an engine oil analysis to determine internal engine health before making an offer. Finally, if the vehicle is touted to be an original rare piece, do a numbers match analysis to make sure it is indeed original. Consider bringing a vehicle appraiser in before the sale to confirm that the car is what the seller claims it to be. Best to you.
Tom

Martha,
Have the drivetrain control module scanned for codes. It sounds like the lockup converter control solenoid is not disengaging the clutch in the converter when you shift gears. This would account for stalling when you change gears. A good transmission shop should be able to scan it for you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
Two weeks ago I inadvertently filled my 2004 Toyota Camry’s gas tank with half a tank of diesel fuel. The dealer drained and cleaned the tank and replaced the spark plugs and air filter. The day after I got the car back, the “check engine light” came on, and the dealer said the catalytic converter was gummed up and should be replaced, along with the oxygen sensors. I haven’t had this work done yet. Is it necessary since the car is running well (and there is no rotten-egg smell)? It would cost me over $2,000. Yikes!
Patricia from Vera Cruise, CA

Patricia,
First and foremost, next time you fill up make sure the pump nozzle fits into your gas tank filler-neck before pulling the pump nozzle trigger. The diesel nozzle is larger than the gasoline nozzle; therefore it can’t possibly fit into your gas tank filler-neck. As for the lit check engine light, try running the vehicle for a few weeks in an effort to burn any remaining diesel fuel out of the system. Then have the system reset to see if the light stays off. If it doesn’t, you have done irreversible damage to the catalytic converter and O2 sensor/s and they will have to be replaced. If you don’t like the price quoted at the dealer, get a couple more estimates from reputable independent shops. Good luck to you.
Tom

Carlo,
If I had to cite a weakness on these engines (not the car; overall the car is great), I would have to point to the soft camshafts. The cams in these engines are prone to wearing prematurely. If this was in fact a police car, the engine might be a high performance engine, which would probably have a hardened steel cam and crankshaft. Run the numbers on the engine before buying to verify this. And, as always, have a Carfax Report and a pre-purchase inspection done by a trusted tech prior to plunking down the cashola. Good luck.
Tom

Robert,
Prolonged use of regular gas in an engine designed to use high-test gas will damage the engine over time. A condition called pre-ignition occurs. When the low octane fuel enters the combustion chamber, it pre-ignites before the top of the compression stroke when ignition is supposed to occur. Pre-ignition damages the tops of pistons, face of cylinder heads, and valves. Advise your girlfriend to run the high test; it’s cheaper than engine repair/replacement.
Tom

Sandi,
It could be rod knock inside the engine or it could be an exhaust leak. Open the hood and locate the origin of the noise. Is it coming from the exterior of the engine or from inside the engine? If it is from the exterior, check the exhaust flange where the pipe connects to the exhaust manifold, and check the exhaust manifold itself. It could be a bad flange seal at the pipe, or a blown manifold gasket, or a cracked manifold. If the noise is coming from the inside of the engine, then I would start with an oil pressure test and proceed from there with partial engine disassembly and inspection. Good luck!
Tom

Buddy,
There’s not much you can do other than appeal to the local Ford Zone Rep. Call Ford customer service and contact the Zone Rep directly, because they have the authority to make a decision. Sometimes they are willing to pay for part of the repair. If you have to pay for it or part of it, then get a couple of estimates for the repair and then make your decision. I think you will find that the dealer offers the cheapest deal and the best warranty. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

1. Rust-Proofing: Some dealers charge up to $800 for this service, which sometimes amounts to no more than spraying a coating from an aerosol can in the wheel wells.
2. Fabric Protection: For a couple of hundred dollars, some dealers will try to sell you fabric protection for your car’s interior that will repel stains. You know it as Scotchgard.
3. Paint Sealant: This is another instance where the dealership hopes the car buyer will be gullible enough to believe that it’s using some special technique and material that’ll keep your car’s paint looking factory fresh
4. Window Etching: Another easy-money markup for car dealers; they etch your vehicle’s VIN on a window so that your car can allegedly be tracked in case it’s stolen.
5. Alarm System: Many cars come with a basic form of security, such as coded keys, but many dealers will also try to sell you a full-featured alarm system.
6. Extended Warranty: Since vehicles come with longer and more comprehensive warranties these days, extended warranties are usually not worth the extra money. If you plan to hang onto the vehicle for a long time, an extended warranty can be a good investment if and when your car needs major repairs. But don’t buy it from the dealer, since you can often get a better deal through independent insurers, such as Warranty Direct.
7. CD Changer: The price of a CD changer at a dealership can be twice what it is at a car stereo shop or electronics store.
8. Rear-Seat Video: Whether to choose this dealer option is not as easy to decide as the ones above.

Consumer Reports says almost the same thing:

“Dealerships often try to sell you extras that boost their profit margin but are a waste of you money. They can include rustproofing, fabric protection, paint protectant, or VIN etching, in which the vehicle identification number is etched onto the windows to deter thieves. Don’t accept those unnecessary services and fees. If you see those items on the bill of sale and you haven’t agreed to them, simply cross them out and refuse to pay for them. Vehicle bodies are already coated to protect against rust. And recent CR reliability surveys show that rust is not a major problem with modern cars. You can treat upholstery and apply paint protectant yourself with good off-the-shelf products that cost only a few dollars. If you decide you want VIN etching, you can buy a kit to do it yourself for less than $25, instead of the $200 that some dealerships charge. Also think twice about an extended warranty. It can cost hundreds of dollars. But if you buy a model with good reliability or if you expect to have the vehicle only for five years or less, it often isn’t worth the cost.”

Regarding Car Warranties, US News & World Report says:

“The dealer’s extended warranty isn’t necessarily the best deal; in fact, it usually costs more. Plus, you’re in a high-pressure situation at the dealer and might not be able to read the fine print. Finally, if you buy the dealer’s extended warranty, you might be required to return to that dealership to get it honored – which could become a problem if you move.”

So save yourself some money:

• Skip the rust proofing
• Buy your own can of Scotchguard for your cloth upholstery as well as the carpeting and matting
• Say no to paint sealant which is often just a wax job that you can do yourself or pay the neighbor’s kids to do
• For your alarm upgraded stereo and video systems you can often find a better system cheaper at your local car stereo shop or a big box retailer like Best Buy
• Window Etching – check with your local police or sheriff department – a lot of them hold free etching days like the Amhearst Police Department
• Car Warranty or Vehicle Service Contract – contact Warranty Direct at 800-632-4222 for your best deal on an Auto Warranty

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘97 Jeep Cherokee Sport with a 4.0L engine and 167,000 miles. The engine has recently developed a “pronounced knock” that is rather annoying and raises a concern about its dependability. This vehicle is quite solid for its age and mileage, and I would like to keep it going for as long as possible. Although the engine continues to run relatively well, it is becoming increasingly noisy despite using heavier viscosity oils. I don’t know if a serious breakdown is imminent, and I am concerned because I drive the “fast-moving” interstate roads on a daily basis. What should I do to keep this vehicle operating indefinitely? Should I rebuild the engine or replace it?
Sal from San Francisco, CA

Sal,
First off, if you continue driving it in a spirited fashion on the “fast moving interstate roads” on a daily basis in this condition, I assure you that catastrophic engine failure is imminent in short order. That said, major engine repair these days is a losing proposition. In years gone by, engine rebuilding was a viable option to replacement. However, with modern day manufacturing processes and great warranties, the price of replacement-remanufactured engines has come down to the point that engine rebuilding is becoming a lost art and is no longer cost effective. I would look into a remanufactured unit from Jasper Engines if the body is in good shape and the rest of the vehicle is in good working order. Success to you.
Tom

Scott,
There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) from Saturn on erratic shift patterns (bulletin # 01-T-09). It talks about bad connector pins in the shift control circuit. In addition, there is a TSB that has an in-depth diagnostic procedure for the same symptoms. Apparently there are problems with these transaxles. Fixes have run the gamut from replacing the valvebody to wiring harnesses, and reflashing of the drivetrain control module. I believe this one is over your head, Scott, unless you have the factory scanner, tools, equipment, and technical knowledge of the drivetrain systems to track down the cause of the erratic shift patterns. Better take it to the dealer to get it fixed. Good luck.
Tom

Eileen,
The headlight assembly on your car is one molded piece of plastic (called a composite). When the lens yellows, the whole unit has to be replaced. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Tom

Mr. Handy with Tools,
This job calls for 4.5 hours for a trained Ford factory technician to do the job, equipped with a lift and other special tools needed to do the job. My advice? Take it to a qualified tech. Although you are “Handy with Tools,” this replacement task is one for the experts. That is, if you want the car to run after the job is done. You might be able to replace an intake in ’68 model, but with today’s cars it’s no longer a basic operation. It requires scan tools, special factory tools, and the knowledge (re-learn the drivability system after the intake has been replaced). Sorry. “Handy with Tools” just don’t cut it any more.
Tom

Sally,
According to Kelly Blue Book, that car in Excellent Condition will bring $2,225; Good Condition: $1,925; and Fair Condition: $1600. Of course, the selling price depends on the exterior and interior condition. Also, pricing varies depending on where you are in the country and what the year, make, model is bringing at auction and local retailers. Check your local newspapers and see what similar vehicles are going for, then price accordingly. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

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Warranty Info is our blog. It has been around for a while and is updated regularly with articles from America’s Car Show with Tom Torbjornsen (radio host and syndicated columnist) and with articles and promos that I write for Warranty Direct. Our Facebook page contains posts from our blog and has an area for our fans to ask questions and generate discussions. On Twitter visitors can “Tweet” to @WarrantyDirect and find out what’s been posted on our blog, what automotive news articles we’re reading or join in the conversation with our friends online.

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Dear Tom,
I drive a 98′ Honda Civic with 40K miles (automatic transmission). Lately the transmission seems to be amiss. Sometimes the car seems to downshift or lurch slightly. I told my husband about it and he asked me if the “check engine light” comes on, and I told him no. He said not to worry about it. However, I have a feeling that he is just too lazy to check it out himself. Should I be concerned? Also, my mom changes the oil every 3,000 miles on her car. Is it okay if we change it every 5,000 miles instead? Thanks for your help.
Deb from Little Rock, AR

Deb,
There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Honda for this very condition on your transmission (bulletin # 00-012). Call your local Honda dealer and ask them what this TSB entails. As for the mileage recommendation, if you are using synthetic oil, then every 5000 miles is fine. If you are using conventional oil, then stick with every 3,000 miles. Good luck.
Tom

Jim,
Who told you this? The dealer? Your Uncle Charlie who used to work on cars back in the 60’s? Unless stated specifically in the warranty or owner’s manual, this is false. The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act of 1972 protects against this sort of thing. It states that the manufacturer carries the burden of proof of any failure whatsoever. They must prove that the installation of the aftermarket product caused the problem. If they can’t, then you are covered. Period. Get the facts straight before changing back. By the way, changing between synthetic and conventional oil does no harm to the engine. Success to you.
Tom

May,
The light is on because the drivetrain computer sees an anomaly in the system. Have the vehicle scanned for codes to identify the cause and repair it. The fact that the vehicle has a hard time rolling concerns me. It could be that the transfer case is locking up due to an electrical malady. Get it scanned and fixed before you do irreversible damage to the drivetrain. Best to you.
Tom

Mark,
Check the brake calipers to see if they are sticking. Also, check to see if there is a blocked rubber brake hose. Both of these conditions could cause the brakes to stay applied with your foot off the brake pedal, which would cause the rotors to heat up and warp. Rotor warpage causes run-out, resulting in pedal pulsation. Also check for worn inboard CV Joints, which could cause the pulsation as well.
Tom

Jean,
It sounds like there’s a problem with the gas tank vent valve, or the gas cap seal, or the evaporative emissions system. Go to the shop immediately after filling the vehicle when the light is on so that they can pull a code for diagnosis. Or you can schedule to leave the vehicle with the shop for a few days. Make sure the gas tank is low so they have to fill it. When the light comes on, they can scan for a code and track down the problem. Best to you.
Tom

Josh,
Check the emergency brake cable on the side that’s overheating. It sounds like the cable has seized, causing the brake to stay applied. Other conditions that cause brakes to hang up are worn return springs, loose anchor springs, and leaking wheel cylinders. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

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Call Now: 877-882-7340

Also, all rates will be changing on Tuesday December 1st.
Lock in your rate at a discount,
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According to US News & World Report, you don’t need to purchase a warranty the moment you buy the car. If you want one, you can easily buy it later from a reputable third-party company. “The dealer’s extended warranty isn’t necessarily the best deal; in fact, it usually costs more. Plus, you’re in a high-pressure situation at the dealer and might not be able to read the fine print. Finally, if you buy the dealer’s extended warranty, you might be required to return to that dealership to get it honored – which could become a problem if you move.” So contact Warranty Direct and buy direct from us and save.

If you need a vehicle service contract (generally known as an extended warranty), call Warranty Direct first and let us help you get protected  from unexpected repair bill costs when a break down occurs. You can reach us at (800) 632-4222 or visit www.warrantydirect.com to find out more.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Jeep Liberty with 48,000 miles. This obviously is NOT a fuel-efficient vehicle. I have the oil changed regularly and tire pressures are maintained as well. This little ‘cutie’ maybe gets 13-15 MPG city driving …YIKES! Is there anything I can do to improve gas mileage now that it costs $70 to fill up? My daughter is using it for college and she has a 25-mile commute with little to no stops to reach the campus. Her friends refer to her as the “old lady driver,” so speeding doesn’t apply here. A side note: My Chrysler Pacific, which is rated poorly for fuel efficiency, has better mileage!
Thanks.
June from Boston, MA

June,
Two things come to mind. Install a high flow air filter like a K&N filter and install an economizer fuel chip. This device modifies the engine management program from the factory (fuel trim is leaned and ignition timing retarded, all resulting in increased fuel mileage). The only tradeoff is decreased engine performance, but you say that you daughter drives like an “old lade” so this shouldn’t be an issue. Finally, practice moderate driving habits: No jackrabbit starts, drive the speed limit, make sure tires are properly inflated, and keep the engine tuned. Best to you.
Tom

Josie,
The term “Readiness Monitor” on today’s cars refers to the self-check monitors in the car’s emissions and performance system. When a Readiness Monitors trips, it means that the system has failed a self-test and the emissions systems are not operating up to snuff. In states where an emissions test is performed, if a Readiness Monitor is tripped, it can fail the emissions portion of the state inspection. The Readiness Monitors can only be reset after the offending emissions system is repaired, the system is reset with a scan tool, and a drive cycle is performed.
Tom

Pepper,
The reason the throttle body gets gummed up with varnish is because fuel is injected into the air stream rushing through the throttle body above the throttle valve. The constant injection of fuel results in gumming up of the throttle valve shaft. Because of this, it’s recommended that the throttle body be cleaned on a regular basis (following suggested maintenance schedule). Best to you.
Tom

Mario,
Have the starter motor checked for excessive electrical draw while cranking. It sounds like the armature bearings are worn, which would cause this condition. When the armature bearings (or bushings) wear out, the armature drags in the field windings inside the starter motor. This would cause the slow dragging cranking speed you hear. A reputable starter rebuilder can confirm my suspicions. Success to you.
Tom

Joe,
Facing the front of the vehicle with the hood open, the radiator drain plug is located on the lower left hand side of the radiator at the bottom of the tank. It’s made of plastic. Make sure you don’t over-tighten it when you reinstall it. Also, make sure you clean the threads of any dirt or debris. Good luck.
Tom

Ron,
First of all, there are no additives that will offer you a “quick fix,” as you call it. Oil consumption is the result of either internal mechanical wear in the engine, or a stuck PCV valve or blocked oil return holes in the cylinder heads from sludge buildup. In either case the fix will involve delving into the problem, not pouring something into the crankcase. Get it into a shop capable of diagnosing oil consumption. Good luck.
Tom

Ron,
According to the Alldata labor and parts pricing guide, the cost for the timing belt is $65.95. Labor w/ A/C: 2.6 hours at the shop’s hourly labor rate. If you suspect the belt was incorrectly installed recently, why not go back to the shop and ask them to make it right? That way you don’t have to pay anything.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
If I want to buy my car at the end of the lease, is the price negotiable? They want $15,000. Will they take less? Thank you.
Anne from WA

Ann,
You didn’t give me year, make, and model so I can’t tell you if this is a good price. That said, you must realize that in car sales and leasing EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE!! Especially when you might return a leased car with mileage on it. The dealer wants to sell the vehicle to keep inventory down. Do your homework and find out exactly what the car is worth based on local market values, vehicle condition, equipment, and mileage. Then negotiate hard, especially since inventories are on the rise again. You should be able to get a better price. Success to you.
Tom

Mary.
Assuming your mechanic ruled out all possibilities regarding the rear suspension and the wheel chair lift supports where they secure to the vehicle body and frame, and based on the fact that the noise was absent without the scooter and present with the scooter, then it is probable that the scooter is not properly secured in it’s holding bracket while the vehicle is in motion, hence the rattle. Have this checked. Best to you.
Tom

William,
The fact that you only hear the “screaming” (as you call it) under load or acceleration tells me that the serpentine belt is probably loose or worn out. This is common when the belt stops biting into the pulleys. Have the serpentine belt checked for wear, tears, or missing ribs. If any of these conditions are evident, replace the belt. If the belt is fine then check the automatic tensioner. This spring keeps the belt properly adjusted and it might be broken or worn out, resulting in a loose belt that would “scream” under load.
Tom

Sandra,
In a word, no. The brakes will not wear out by parking on an incline. However, if you drive the car without releasing the parking brake, the rear brakes will wear out in short order. Why? Because, when the parking brake is on, the rear brakes are applied to either the drums or rotors (depending on if you have rear drum or disc brakes). So make sure you release the parking brake whenever you drive off from parking on one of those marvelous hills in San Fran! Success to you.
Tom

Vern,
You changed the engine mounts, but what about the transmission mounts? If a trans mount is worn out, it will cause the symptoms you’re experiencing. Why? Because the rubber wears out which causes the mount to sink and ground to the frame or engine cradle. If this is evident, engine torque will cause a drivetrain vibration (especially in reverse). Also, check the engine cradle mounts, because they could be loose or bad. As for the roar you’re hearing from the tires? It could be either choppy wear on the tires or a bad wheel bearing. Have that checked as well. Good luck.
Tom

Jim,
If you’re going to let a car sit in the garage with gas in it, pour a bottle of fuel stabilizer into the tank. The stabilizer will maintain the octane and keep the gas from separating and dropping varnish into the bottom of the tank. There are some great fuel stabilizer products out there. Check with your local dealer for what they suggest. One that I swear by is K100G from Kinetic Labs. Their website: www.kineticfueltreatment.com. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com