Dear Tom,
I own a ‘94 Camaro Z28. The right front low beam light was out so I replaced it with a new one and it still doesn’t work. Any ideas? It was replaced with the same kind of light that came out. All the other lights are working. Thanks.
Chas from Lima, OH

Chas,
Now is the time to start tracing wiring and powers and grounds. Either there’s a break in a power wire or there’s a bad ground to that headlight bulb. The ground should be found on the header panel above the radiator; the power wire in the harness comes from the bulkhead connector at the firewall. Get out your wiring diagrams, test light, and logic probe, and start diagnostics. Be careful with the test light. If you pierce a low voltage/amperage wire going to a module you will fry it. If there’s no obvious ground or power wire problem, you might want to employ the services of a professional tech to avert damage to the system.
Tom

Debbie,
Nissan issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on your truck for noisy drive belts. The culprit was an improper pulley alignment or a faulty belt tensioner pulley. Get the truck into a Nissan dealership and have this TSB performed. It should solve your problem. Success to you.
Tom

Joel,
Continued use of low octane fuel (87) in this engine will result in internal engine damage over time. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, which causes hammering on the tops of the pistons and cylinder heads and valve faces. The small savings you will realize from using lower octane fuel will come back to bite you with major engine damage and repairs. Your call, penny wise or pound-foolish.
Tom

George,
Aloha! I am not sure what you are referring to when you say “lower insulators.” There are no “lower insulators” to speak of. The strut bolts to the steering knuckle and the spring seats in the lower part of the strut. Did you change the upper bearing plates? They could be the source of the banging (this is common). That car is equipped with sway bars. The sway bar insulators could be bad causing the bar to bang on the underside of the car every time you hit a bump. Go over your work. I’m sure you will find your problem on one of these areas. Good luck.
Tom

Shade,
Wandering occurs as a result of: bad shocks, loose steering linkage, low tire pressures, and worn suspension components such as ball joints or control arm bushings. Get the truck up on a lift and have the front end looked over by a good tech. They will find your problem in one of these areas. Make sure you take the tech for a ride (make them drive it so they feel the wandering) before putting the truck up on a lift to help in the diagnostic process.
Tom

Dave,
With a hand held scan tool and a drive cycle. The hand held will go into the system, interface with the vehicle’s computer, and clear the codes. The drive cycle (a predetermined set of driving and operating instructions as outlined by the carmaker) will clear the readiness monitors that have flagged as a result of the malady it sees in the system. You will need to access professional auto repair info for this vehicle to perform the drive cycle. I wish you success.
Tom

Mandy,
Yes, I suppose you could say that an injected engine has a choke. It’s electronic. When the performance system senses that the engine is cold (via air and coolant sensors) it richens the fuel mixture automatically. When the engine comes up to operating temperature, the system leans out the fuel mixture to running mode. There’s no manual or automatic choke like in the old days; it’s all controlled electronically now.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

This is just to let you know how pleased I am with your service. I recently purchased a policy with Warranty Direct, just before my car’s original warranty expired. My car had not had any problems up to that point, so I was unsure whether this extra expense was really necessary, but only a few weeks later, I took my car to the dealer for some maintenance and several leaks were discovered. Your company covered the cost of repairs without any problem. Shortly thereafter, a totally different issue was discovered and Warranty Direct also covered it, this time supplying the required part directly to the mechanic. Needless to say, I am very glad that I purchased the warranty when I did. Thank you for making these repairs so simple and direct. I will definitely recommend your service.

Bob W.
Atlanta, Georgia

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Dodge Neon that recently broke down because of a ruptured transmission oil cooler tank in the radiator. I took the car to a transmission shop and they told me that both the radiator and the transmission have to be replaced because the antifreeze and the transmission fluid mixed. Is this covered under a recall? Do I have to replace the transmission?
Michael from Williamsburg, VA

Michael,
Yes, the transmission must be replaced due to the failure of the transmission oil cooler in the radiator tank. When coolant mixes with transmission oil and circulates through the system, the transmission suffers severe damage. Rubber seals swell up and hydraulic pressure is lost within the unit. In addition, the coolant dissolves the glue that holds the clutches together inside the transmission. I checked my resources and this condition is NOT covered under a recall from Chrysler. Sorry for the bad news. Best to you.
Tom

Amy,
If you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine you will find the thermostat housing. The housing has two bolts that secure it to the engine. These need to be removed to gain access to the thermostat. When you replace it, make sure to thoroughly clean the housing and gasket mating-surface on the engine. Also, make sure the thermostat is installed right side up (spring down inside the engine). Success to you.
Tom

Bill,
To isolate the problem, find where the sending unit screws into the engine (usually in a water jacket on the intake manifold). Once you locate the sending unit, disconnect the wire that plugs into it. Then ground the wire while watching the gauge inside the truck. If the gauge goes too hot, the sending unit is defective and must be replaced. If the gauge does not move after grounding the sending unit wire, then there is a problem either with the wiring between the sender and the gauge in the dash, or with the gauge itself (defective). Good luck.
Tom

Rocky,
The interior lights in your truck are controlled by an electronic module. Either the module is not powering down the interior lights when the doors are closed, or the module is still sensing a door open from a faulty door-ajar switch in a door latch. Have a tech scan the system with a diagnostic computer in order to track down the problem.
Tom

Cal,
The Ambient Temperature Sensor on your truck is located behind the grill near the hood latch. It has a round, black two-pin connector with light blue/orange and dark green wires. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the processor inside the truck causing the malfunction. If the sensor replacement does not solve the problem, then have a diagnostic performed of the circuit that feeds that function. Success to you.
Tom

Richard,
Were the drums resurfaced when the brake job was done? If not, I would pull them off, resurface them, and sand the brake shoes as well. Also, grind the ends of the shoe braking material at a 45-degree angle. That will take the sharp leading edge off the brake shoe. This procedure should take care of the noise.
Tom

Ed,
I would recommend having the driveshaft checked for proper balance. When a ding or dent damages the shaft, it can get knocked out of balance causing a drivetrain vibration. The condition of the molded rubber mount of the carrier-bearing doesn’t sound too good either. Get the vehicle up on a lift and have it checked. If that bearing is allowed to jump up and down while driving the vehicle, a vibration will ensue. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘97 Buick LeSabre with a 3.8 engine. When I remove the gas cap to put in gas, there is a release of fumes from the spout from the buildup of pressure. What would cause this pressure?
George from Blyth, NY

George,
There is a problem with the way the gas tank is purging pressure. Pressure inside the gas tank is released through a vent on the top of the tank. There could be a problem with the vent, a blocked purge hose, or a plugged vapor canister in the EVAP system. The system needs to be checked out. Best to you.
Tom

Curtis,
The A/C system condensation drains out of the bottom of the evaporator case in your car. Organic matter in the form of leaves, pine needles and plant matter get into the HVAC box through the air inlet at the base of the windshield. When this matter gets into the evaporator case, it breaks down and rots into a paste. This paste filters down to the condensation drain and mixes with water, forming an organic plug in the water drain at the bottom of the case. When this happens, the water backs up into the vehicle, usually on the passenger’s side floorboard. In order to clear the drain, you must remove the small rubber hose from the bottom of the box and gently clear the clog with a wire hanger or grab-all tool, and the leak will go away. Success to you.
Tom

Barb,
If the fluid in your transmission was burnt (very brown or black), then I leave it alone because the transmission has probably been overheated during its life. If you replace the burnt fluid with new high detergency fluid on a “cooked” unit, the clutches come unglued from their backing and the unit fails.
Tom

Ann,
This car has a high performance engine. Therefore, you have to use premium gas. If you use regular gas it will cause engine knock (pre-ignition), which causes damage to the tops of the pistons, cylinder heads, and valves (due to the constant hammering from pre-ignition of the fuel when it enters the combustion chamber). Just recently I received a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from GM about this very issue. It appears that people were using regular gas in their 2010 Cadillac SRX vehicles with a high performance V6 engine. The result over time was major engine damage from prolonged pre-ignition. If you wanna play, you gotta pay! Use premium gas in your “Z” car! By the way, if you calculate up the additional cost of using premium fuel over the course of a year, you’re only looking at about $150. Good health to you.
Tom

Frances,
Thanks for listening on XM. I love my XM listeners! Have someone check the serpentine belt tensioner. This is a spring-loaded pulley that pushes against the back of the serpentine belt to maintain sufficient belt tension. When it wears out or the spring breaks, the serpentine belt slips which causes a squeal. Sounds like your serpentine belt tensioner has gone south! Success to you.
Tom

Mark,
You could try a junkyard for a blower resistor; try the Internet too. Also, call a parts house and ask them if that blower cross-references with another model vehicle in the same year or years of manufacture. If all of the above fails, get a different resistor and modify it to fit your vehicle. To do this, you will need to find a similar resistor to the one in your car, then modify the wiring harness and possibly the heater case to mount the new resistor. Good luck.
Tom

Marilyn,
Sounds like the engine is racing ahead of the transmission. Have the computer scanned. Usually the cause of such a phenomenon is the loss of hydraulic pressure within the unit, which results in the slipping of bands and chattering of clutches while driving. A computer scan of the system will reveal a direction to go with the diagnostics. Also, check the transmission fluid. You’ll probably find that it’s burnt (black or brown in color). If this is the case, it will be necessary to disassemble the unit to determine the extent of the damage. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Cadillac Escalade. The battery light comes on for one or two minutes, then it cuts off and the dash says ‘battery not charging.’ What does this mean? Also, sometimes when I don’t lock the car at night, the car will not start the next morning and I have to get the battery jumped. What’s going on?
Wilford from Drexel Hill, PA

Wilford,
Your Escalade has a shorted alternator, a loose serpentine belt, or a parasitic electrical draw in the system with the key off. Start with a charging system analysis to make sure the alternator is charging properly. If it is, check the serpentine belt to see if it is too loose. This belt has an automatic belt tensioner that rides against the back of the belt to maintain proper tension. When the belt stretches too much or the tensioner spring wears out, the belt slips resulting in poor alternator performance. Finally, if all check out good, then have the system checked for an electrical draw with the key off. A draw will kill the battery very quickly, especially if the short is a direct 12-volt draw. Good luck.
Tom

Cliff,
Sounds like either the thermostat is bad (stuck open) or a coolant temp sensor for the temperature gauge is bad. The computer adjusts fuel delivery and ignition timing according to the data it receives from the coolant temp sensor and the thermostat. If the coolant temp sensor sends a signal to the computer that the engine is cold, the computer will adjust for a richer fuel delivery and advance ignition timing because it “sees” a cold engine. If the thermostat is stuck open and not causing a restriction in the system to raise engine coolant temperature to proper operating temps, the computer will “think” that the engine is cold and adjust the fuel delivery and ignition timing for cold start conditions. Better get to the bottom of it or you will burn a hole in your wallet from fuel consumption. Success to you.
Tom

Scott,
The EVAP system is a sealed system to control fuel vapor emissions to the atmosphere. When a leak occurs from a rusted line or faulty component, it throws an EVAP code. To track down a leak in the EVAP system a “Smoke Machine” is hooked to the system. The machine pumps vapor through the system; the tech then inspects the system for escaping vapor, which will occur at the site of the leak. Repair the malady, clear the stored code, and the problem is solved. This one is probably over your head, Scott. Take it to a pro that has the equipment and knowledge to fix it. Good luck.
Tom

Ground Control to John,
Leak detection pump? DVOM? Lab Scope in modes 1,2,3? What are you talking about? I haven’t a clue. This is an example of … “a little information in the hands of the uninformed can be a dangerous thing.” That said, Alldata DIY has all the test parameters you want. However, you have to come up with valid tests before proceeding. Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy (which I think may have already happened) looking for the correct flow chart/diagnostic procedure.
Major Tom to Ground Control… over and out

Dear Tom,
Is there a standardized code for the radio’s antitheft lock system? What is the procedure to un-lock it?
Vikki from Brooksville, IL

Vikki,
Radio lockout codes vary between carmakers and radio manufacturers. There is a unique procedure and code for each radio. This information is not available to the general public. You have to get it from your car dealer or from the radio manufacturer. Expect to pay for it and to prove that you are the owner of the vehicle.
Tom

Cheri,
Sometimes parts are interchangeable between years and models within the same family of vehicles, for example GM. Most junkyards or car dealers have a list (called a cross-reference chart) of what parts interchange with other years, makes and models. Should you want to do the research yourself you can go to www.car-part.com. They have a search engine for interchangeable parts. Good luck!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 F250 4X4 Ex Cab w/ 6.0 L Diesel. What are your thoughts on the chip tuners such as Bully Dog and Super Chips? Are they worth the investment?
Douglas from Tornado, WV

Douglas,
Chip tuners create excessive boost and blow out head gaskets on diesel engines. There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Ford stating that Ford Motor Company is aware that the ONLY reason for the head gaskets blow out is from a chip installation. If a vehicle comes into a dealership with blown head gaskets, the first thing the dealer must check is a performance/chip modification. According to Ford, if ANY performance/chip modification is found, the repair goes from warranty to customer pay, and Ford relinquishes all responsibility for the engine failure. And don’t think if you remove the chip before bring the truck in for service that they won’t detect it, because one look at the vehicle’s datastream history will tell them that a chip has been installed. Computer chip or $1500 repair? Your choice. Is it worth it?
Tom

Lee,
If it was a rod it would knock all the time. Your description reminds me of a condition that GM has with their V6 and V8 engines, referred to as “Piston Slap.” GM says that Piston Slap is the result of the piston rocking in the bore until it warms up and expands, essentially taking up the slop or slap. According to GM, this condition will not result in major engine damage. Check out the following website out for more info on Piston Slap: www.pistonslap.com. A device called an “engine ear” should be used during the diagnostic process to pinpoint the noise. An “engine ear” is a set of microphones attached to a set of headphones, which can be moved all over the engine until the exact source of the noise is found. This device is very effective in tracking down an offending engine noise.
Tom

Lucas,
The throttle linkage needs to be checked out. There was a problem with the clip that holds the kick down cable on the throttle on this model vehicle. In fact, Ford issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this problem. When this happens, the transmission won’t shift properly and, if the vehicle is driven for long period of times, the transmission will burn up from partial engagement. Check with your Ford dealer to see if there was a new throttle linkage clip issued to remedy this problem. Finally, check out www.nhtsa.gov and do a TSB database search for your year, make, and model vehicle, you will be able to get the details of the TSB from this site.
Tom

Don,
The products I recommend to correct this condition are: Castle Products’ Dragon Power; Kinetic Labs’ K100G, and Chevron’s Techron fuel injector cleaner. A loose ground wire to the fuel tank sending unit can also cause this problem. It’s located on top of the tank. Better check that too. Good luck.
Tom

Sally,
The only way to get your radio unlocked is to go to your local Honda dealership. They will have to identify the radio code, access the information through their database, and unlock the radio. They will give you the code for future use if needed. This service usually costs about $60 – $100 depending on what area of the country you live and the shop’s labor rate. You could also replace the OEM radio with an aftermarket unit, which is usually the best course of action. For about $150 you can get a wonderful head unit that will deliver concert quality sound out of your speaker system. While you’re at it, you could install a sub woofer enclosure, amplifiers, perhaps upgrade the speaker system, and install tweeters in the front of the vehicle. Oooooo baby, what pristine sound! [Somebody Stop Me From Spending Sally’s Money!!]
Tom

Ellen,
Quite often, the shoots at the base of the windshield or on the wiper arm clog with dried soap. Try clearing the shoots with a paper clip; make sure all hoses are clear as well. If everything is clear, then the washer pump is bad and needs to be replaced. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 GMC Envoy with 54,000 miles. It has a big engine and only gets 15.5 MPG. Although I love my Envoy, I did consider getting a new SUV (maybe a 4 cylinder) to get better mileage and performance, but I can’t afford to do that right now. I heard that there’s a special air filter that increases mileage and performance in vehicles. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what it is? Or is there is something else I could do? Thank you.
Joanie from West Seneca, NY

Joanie,
Yes, there is an air filter that will increase gas mileage and performance. It’s called K&N. Have one installed in your vehicle. In addition, make sure the tires are inflated properly and change the engine oil to synthetic oil. Finally, change the transmission fluid to synthetic, as well as all the differentials and transfer case. This action will also increase fuel mileage because you will reduce friction in these components by using synthetic lubricants. Best to you.
Tom

James,
The engine in your wagon is a 5.7-liter. No it is not a Corvette engine. The Kelly Blue Book value in “pristine condition” is $5,700. That’s all you can expect to get unless you find someone who can’t live without it and is willing to pay whatever you ask. Then you can click your ruby red slippers three times and say to yourself, “There’s no place like home” and then … wake up and smell the coffee. Come on, James! It’s a Buick station wagon!
Tom

Tina,
I have been buying gas from “the rez” for twenty years with not one problem. Over the years I have heard various comments about gasoline from the reservations. For example, it was rumored that the proprietors on the Indian Reservation were irresponsible and did not check their tanks, tank seals, or pump calibration. Also, they bought cheap gas that had water in it to resell to the public, and many other ridiculous accusations. Since my experience said otherwise, I decided to speak to JD, the manager of Seneca One Stop, in an attempt to understand why these rumors have reigned for years. He offered no reason as to why these rumors exist. However, he showed me the tests that Seneca One Stop goes through to ensure that their tanks are water free, do not leak, and pump gas accurately. He assured me that the quality of the gas they buy is the highest quality offered to the motoring public. He stated that, because of the negative perception, they were overly cautious to make sure they had no problems. I cannot speak for any other Indian fueling stations because I didn’t speak to anyone except Seneca One Stop. However I have purchased “Indian gas” from other proprietors and have never had a problem (unlike a few non-Indian stations I have experienced problems with and later confirmed water was indeed in the gas). Why the rumors? In our capitalistic system, businesses compete for our dollars, so sometimes they talk negatively about one another to get a let-up on their competition. That’s just the way of the world.
Tom

Brian,
I have never heard this urban legend. However, I can tell you that the head gasket on your Nissan engine is probably blown, and that your son probably overheated the engine and drove it in that state until the head gasket blew out. This explains why the engine coolant is disappearing. It is being drawn from the cooling system into the engine and out the tailpipe. Have a talk with you son. I am sure he will confirm this suspicion. Have the engine compression tested and a cylinder leak down test performed. These tests will identify which cylinder is leaking. Removal of the head and resurfacing is necessary before replacing the head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I saw your article on AOL Autos regarding pre-purchase inspections and it was very helpful. I am thinking of purchasing a ‘73 Chevy P-10 (Original Ice Cream Truck), but it is in rough condition and needs restoration. It has some rust on the axle, brake lines, and leaf springs. The engine and engine block are coated with what looks like years of caked-on oil deposits. It has an aluminum body that is in decent shape visibly. I did not notice any leaks on the ground near or around the vehicle. I want to restore the vehicle for various events, but I don’t have much money. The work would be done the Restoration Company located in New Jersey (the truck is in Connecticut). Do you know a company that could do the type of pre-purchase inspection that you wrote about? Can it be done on location? The restoration company has recommended a compression test. Can this be done on-site? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Paul from Cherry Hill, NJ

Paul,
Any competent repair facility can perform a pre-purchase inspection on this vehicle. All that’s required is a lift and some basic tools. Ideally, you also should have a compression test and a charging system analysis (so you can see if there are any electrically problems). I also recommend an oil pressure test to make sure there are no internal engine problems. The truck probably has point ignition, so a simple tach/dwell meter will reveal any glitches in the ignition system. Also, check the brakes, steering & suspension, and the brake / fuel lines for integrity as these tend to rust over the years. A trained tech, armed with a complete checklist, should be able to give you a good idea as to the vehicle’s integrity before you plunk down the cash-ola for the Good Humor Man’s former ride. Good luck to you.
Tom

Bobbi Ann,
What can I say? Your beloved “Heartbeat of America” has cardiac arrest. The engine has to be removed and either be replaced or rebuilt. I would replace it with a remanufactured engine from a company such as Jasper Engines, so that the new power plant will be just like a new one (and at less cost than rebuilding the old one). As for the tach racing up when you step on the gas, check the transmission fluid. If it’s low, top it off and see if that solves the problem. If the problem is solved then you have a leak that must be repaired. If the fluid is burnt and dark brown or black, the transmission probably needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Your Camaro has given you many years of reliable service, now it’s time to either refurbish it or put it out to pasture. Only you can make that decision. Best to you.
Tom

Rick,
Sounds like the car has a parasitic electrical occurring when the key is off. No, you should not have to turn everything off inside the vehicle when you exit. There is something draining the battery. Have the shop perform an electrical draw test to track down the cause of the drain. During this test, a DVOH (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) is hooked up to the battery. The tech will eliminate each circuit until the draw goes away, identifying the offending circuit. Then he/she will trace the circuit to find the cause of the draw. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
There is a low coolant warning on my ’99 Jeep Grand Cherokee that won’t go away even though I had the coolant serviced. Also, the carpet is wet and slimy on the front passenger floor. Any help would be appreciated.
Theresa from Palo Alto, CA

Theresa,
Have a cooling system pressure test performed on your Jeep. Specifically, have the service tech look for a leaking heater core. Hot water from the cooling system circulates through the heater core. This heat emanates from the core and is blown into the vehicle’s cabin by the fan (this is how the heater works). When the heater core springs a leak, water from the cooling system leaks into the vehicle’s cabin and coolant is lost, hence the cause of the low coolant warning light and the wet carpet. The fact that the water feels slippery tells me that it’s probably anti freeze. Prepare yourself for a hefty repair bill; heater core replacement is very labor intensive. Wish I had better news.
Tom

Daniel,
BMW is great when it comes to customer satisfaction, in this case, I’m sure BMW would help you. Your best bet is to contact the district zone rep for BMW and explain the situation to him/her. Show them your title of ownership and the recent bill of sale for the car and I’m sure they will make an exception to the rule in this case. Good luck!
Tom

Korinna,
The computer needs to be scanned for trouble codes. It has detected a problem with the engine when it’s wet outside and has set a code, turning the check engine light on. Once the computer has been scanned, the technician can perform a set of pinpoint tests to determine the defective part. My guess is that the tech will find multiple random misfires. The tech will probably mist down the engine compartment with a spray water bottle in an effort to duplicate the problem. You’ll probably find that the sparkplug wires need replacing. Best to you.
Tom

Clancy,
The squeak could be coming from the bushings in the control arms, dry ball joint/s, worn strut insulators, or bearings. Get the car up on a lift and have the front suspension checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Rich,
Ignition switch replacement is common on cars with some mileage, but to have so many switches malfunction in such a short period of time makes me wonder if there is another issue affecting the system. The body control module, main computer, the instrument cluster and their respective wiring are all involved in the starting system. It’s going to take some in-depth diagnostics to track down this little bugger! Find a good electrical diagnostician. It will probably serve you well to arrange to leave the car at the shop so they can experience the problem first hand when it occurs.
Tom

Taylor,
I understand your feelings about the truck. My father gave me my first car too and that car meant a lot to me (until I found a Camaro I wanted bad enough, then I traded the Pontiac in). Here’s what you should do. First off, hook a mechanical gauge to an oil gallery in the engine and run it to verify actual oil pressure. If it’s okay, then the vehicle probably has a problem with the oil pressure-sending unit (which is quite common on older vehicles), the wiring to it, or the gauge in the dash. If the oil pressure is found to be low, then the oil pan has to come down and the lower end inspected for worn bearings, oil pump, or the likes. In this case, you might want to employ the service of a professional tech to evaluate the engine before repairing or replacing it. Or, take out a book on engine overhaul and go to it, if you have the mechanical aptitude or inclination. I rebuilt my first engine at 16 years of age, so you’re ready! Call the show and let me know how it worked out. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

You can also download the file by clicking here: Tom Torbjornsen Explains How To Purchase A Used Car Warranty

To hear the entire show visit America’s Car Show’s Sirius/XM Radio Archives and select the July 4th’s show.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘02 Toyota Highlander 4 cylinder, 62,000 miles. My local shop sent me a notice to have the EFI throttle body serviced. What is an EFI throttle body and how often does it need service? The vehicle is running fine, so I wonder if this service is really necessary at this time?
Bert from San Dimas, MX

Bert,
EFI stands for Electronic Fuel Injection and Throttle Body is the term for a component in the injection system where air is taken into the engine. Fuel injection systems require cleaning at regular intervals, every 35 – 40 thousand miles. This process is necessary because varnish deposits, dirt, and carbon build up on the end of the injector nozzles, inside fuel rails, inside intake plenums, on the tops of the pistons, and inside the cylinder heads and valves. The cleaning process involves injecting an industrial grade carbon cleaner into the system, and then letting it sit to liquefy any carbon buildup in the engine. A professional cleaning of the injection system and upper regions of the engine usually results in increased performance and better fuel mileage.
Tom

Ruthann,
In regards to the spastic oil pressure reading, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge to confirm actual oil pressure. If it is low, the engine will have to be disassembled for proper inspection of the parts that relate to oil pressure. If the oil pressure is okay, then check for a bad sending unit or wiring to the unit (this is most likely the cause of the erratic readings). The popping sound could be a bad ball joint, control arm bushing shock, or some other suspension part. Get the truck up in the air for a suspension inspection. Success to you.
Tom

Bob,
I can’t answer why the knock appeared so suddenly unless I explored the engine. The cause could be a bad oil pump, excessive sludge buildup preventing oil flow to bearings, bad engine oil, as well as a host of other reasons. Pistons are connected to the crankshaft via a connecting rod. The rod bolts to the crank using a split metal cap. Bearing inserts are placed on the cap and this surface is what rides in the crankshaft journal. Oil is pumped into the bearing saddle and acts as a cushion between the crank journal and the bearing surface. The reason for the knock? The bearing inserts at the end of the connecting rod have worn out, causing a hammering (or knocking) effect when the piston travels up and down. Your mechanic’s assessment of replacement or rebuilding is probably accurate. Before sentencing your engine to death in the bone yard, drop the oil pan and inspect the crankshaft to evaluate the extent of the damage. I wish you success.
Tom

Barb,
If you think the shop will not like the fact that you want to see the parts that need replacing then you are going to the wrong shop (and your husband has the wrong attitude). As a consumer you are entitled to see why the work needs to be done. I suggest you find a dependable repair shop if this tire shop will be offended because you want to see what needs repairing or replacing. Call your local Triple A, ask for an Approved Repair Center in your area, and get a second opinion. As for the ‘lit’ ABS light, the brake computer has to be scanned for codes and the malady repaired (perhaps a speed sensor, broken wiring, or hub assembly). In regards to the transmission question, if the fluid in your trans were burnt or very brown, then yes, I would say to leave it alone because the trans has probably been overheated. When a trans overheats it cooks the clutches and rubber seals. When you replace the fluid on a ‘cooked’ unit, the clutches come unglued from their backing and the unit fails. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

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Dear Tom,
I bought a new 2010 Audi A4 in August of last year. Two months and 1600 miles later the oil light went on and the oil level was at the minimum line on the dipstick. It required a quart of oil. When I called the Audi service at the dealership they said that’s normal and that the Audi engine burns oil to the tune of about a quart every 2,000 miles. Is this true? I always thought having to put oil in meant leaking seals, gasket gone, or some other problem. What do you say?
Rod from IA

Rod,
Commonly, during the break-in period, an engine will “use” (not burn) oil. Why? Because mating surfaces are being established and metal is rubbing against metal causing friction. This process increases the operating temperatures and consequently uses oil. Now that the engine has 1500 miles on it, switch over to synthetic oil, which stands up to friction, heat, and chemical contamination much better than conventional petroleum based oil. If the engine continues to use oil at this rate, I would lodge a complaint with customer service so that it is a matter of record when and if the engine fails prematurely.
Tom

Christian,
What do you tell the folks when you have your A/C serviced? Exactly what you told me! That will lead them to a system analysis including a head pressure test, This will tell the tech if there’s a stoppage in refrigerant flow (which I think is causing the freezing of the refrigerant regulating valve in the system). Also, check the air blend doors to make sure they’re staying open when the system is in operation, because a stuck or broken air blend door will shut off cabin airflow. Let the techs do their job. Don’t tell them what to fix or replace or you might get what you ask for and not an effective repair.
Tom

Ray,
Sounds like there is condensation buildup from a plugged drain in the HVAC box. When organic material (leaves and plant matter) get into the air intake at the base of the windshield, it rots and forms a black paste that plugs the condensation drain. This causes water to build up in the box and blow into the vehicle in the form of a mist. Have the drain checked and unplugged to stop the misting problem. As for the cat-urine-like smell, when water does not drain, mold spores grow in the evaporator case, producing the offensive odor. Try spraying a whole can of Lysol into the air intake with the A/C running. This will kill the mold and eliminate the smell. If it doesn’t, the case will have to come apart in order to check for a bad evaporator core. Best to you.
Tom

Peter,
The best advice I can give is to find another shop capable of tracking down such a problem. A vacuum leak should not be hard to find. Either a line or vacuum driven component such as a power brake booster is leaking, or the intake gasket or manifold is leaking. Have a vacuum gauge attached to the intake manifold and read the vacuum. If it is vacillating wildly on the face of the gauge there’s a vacuum leak in the engine, probably in the intake manifold. Try spraying carbon cleaner at the base of the intake. If the engine picks up and/or smoothes out then you have found your vacuum leak. Good luck!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

“The WarrantyDirect.com Ford Fusion was a top 10 car at the end of practice and we liked our chances for a strong finish tonight” said Lagasse Jr. “Unfortunately we had a sway bar arm break in the middle of the race and we didn’t end up with the finish that we had hoped for.”

NASHVILLE, TN., (April 28, 2010) – Baker Curb Racing announced today that Scott Lagasse Jr.’s No. 43 Ford Fusion will promote WarrantyDirect.com, one of the largest and most established extended vehicle warranty companies in North America in Friday night’s Bubba Burger 250 at Richmond International Raceway. Lagasse Jr. currently ranks 10th in the NASCAR Nationwide driver point standings after eight races, having gained 22 spots over the last seven races.

“We are very excited about the opportunity to promote WarrantyDirect.com through this partnership with Baker Curb Racing and Scott Lagasse Jr.,” said Tara Williams, Senior Vice President of Warranty Direct. “NASCAR fans are passionate about their sport and are very brand loyal to the companies that support their favorite teams. Scott is off to a great start to the 2010 season and we look forward to seeing the WarrantyDirect.com No. 43 Ford Fusion up front in Richmond on Friday night.”

About Warranty Direct
For nearly 30 years, Warranty Direct has been part of one of the largest and most established extended vehicle service companies in North America. We’ve also been the company that customer’s turn to when they want reliable, comprehensive coverage for their cars, trucks, and vans. Since the beginning, our goal has been to provide exceptional personal service, eliminate hassles, and develop the gold standard for extended vehicle service plans. How do we do it? It actually begins with you. We make it our point to put ourselves in our customers’ shoes and ask what we would want from an extended vehicle service company. Then, we go above and beyond to deliver precisely that experience to every person that has one of our plans. For more information visit: http://www.warrantydirect.com

About Baker Curb Racing
Combining speed and sound, Baker Curb Racing brings a unique tune to the Nashville and the NASCAR Nationwide Series. Owners Gary Baker and Mike Curb combine for over 100 years of experience in NASCAR and national marketing and branding. The team became a vision of Baker and Curb’s passions for racing and a desire to bring a new professional team to the landscape of Nashville and to help satiate the desires of local NASCAR fans. To keep up with all the happenings of the team, visit www.bakercurb.com

For more information:
Andy Gee
315-566-9034 or agee@bakercurb.com

Click here to listen: Alvin Casillas Talks About Warranty Direct Extended Warranties

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Rounding The Turns At PIR

This years Sprint Cup race will go an additional 63 laps and miles on the one-mile oval, up from 312, The new distance will be 375 laps/miles will be the longest race since Phoenix International Raceway began hosting NASCAR in 1988. PIR measures its Cup races in kilometers, so it will be just over 603 kilometers, up from the previous 500 km. The race is sponsored by Subway and is known as the Subway Fresh Fit 600.

Last year’s winner was Mark Martin, who also had the pole position. However, all the top 35 drivers all have a shot at winning:

Which driver do you think will win? Leave us a comment.