Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Malibu LS. I recently had the front and rear rotors and pads replaced, as well as the rear calipers. About 750 miles later the brakes started squealing. The pads cost $50 each; the rotors were $46 each; the calipers were $79 each. I brought the car back to shop at once and they cleaned the brakes. However, they are still squealing. Any solutions?
Joe from Long Island

Joe,
Brake squeal is a common problem and the result of a high-pitched vibration of the pad/s. Either the pad anti-rattle clips are worn/broken or the pad insulators were not installed at the time of the brake job. Get the vehicle back to the shop and have these checked. Best to you.
Tom

Michael,
Yes, your driving pattern is a textbook case for using synthetic motor oil. When a vehicle sits without being driven much, acid and moisture accumulate in the crankcase, causing erosion of the main and rod bearings. Good synthetic motor oil guards against chemical and moisture contamination because of the chemically fortified base stock. I recommend either AMSOIL or Mobil One, (number one and two).
Tom

Don,
You will have to water-test the car’s body to find the leak. Get in the car with a light and have someone soak down the body with a water hose at the point where you think the water is entering the vehicle. Use the light to find where the water is coming in, and then seal the leak. It could be entering via a door, a window, or a windshield gasket. Success to you.
Tom

Susan,
Why would you take a vehicle with an obvious drivability/engine problem to a transmission specialist? That’s like going to a brain specialist for a broken arm (just wondering about your logic here). I can’t give you a specific direction to solve the stalling problem. However, I would suggest that you leave the vehicle with a shop that specializes in engine drivability for a few days so they can drive it with a scanner hooked up to it, and the tech can monitor what’s going on when the problem occurs. This is the best course of action given the erratic nature of your Durango’s malady.
Tom

Glenn,
First off, there was no such thing as a “T-Bucket Roadster” 90 years ago. The base vehicle that the T-Bucket was made from had to be something that was not modified (whether it was a pickup or some sort of coupe or sedan). I just want to get a clear understanding of what we’re looking at before proceeding forward with advice. That said, when buying any car (custom, modified or OEM) conduct a stem to stern inspection of the key systems (electrical, drivetrain, powertrain, suspension, brakes, undercarriage, etc). In addition, the inspection might include an engine compression test, electrical values of the charging/starting system, hydraulic test of the trans (if automatic), fluid samples of drivetrain components such as diffferential/s, transfer case, transaxle, and any gearboxes in the drivetrain. I might even go as far as an engine oil analysis to determine internal engine health before making an offer. Finally, if the vehicle is touted to be an original rare piece, do a numbers match analysis to make sure it is indeed original. Consider bringing a vehicle appraiser in before the sale to confirm that the car is what the seller claims it to be. Best to you.
Tom

Martha,
Have the drivetrain control module scanned for codes. It sounds like the lockup converter control solenoid is not disengaging the clutch in the converter when you shift gears. This would account for stalling when you change gears. A good transmission shop should be able to scan it for you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I drive a 98′ Honda Civic with 40K miles (automatic transmission). Lately the transmission seems to be amiss. Sometimes the car seems to downshift or lurch slightly. I told my husband about it and he asked me if the “check engine light” comes on, and I told him no. He said not to worry about it. However, I have a feeling that he is just too lazy to check it out himself. Should I be concerned? Also, my mom changes the oil every 3,000 miles on her car. Is it okay if we change it every 5,000 miles instead? Thanks for your help.
Deb from Little Rock, AR

Deb,
There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Honda for this very condition on your transmission (bulletin # 00-012). Call your local Honda dealer and ask them what this TSB entails. As for the mileage recommendation, if you are using synthetic oil, then every 5000 miles is fine. If you are using conventional oil, then stick with every 3,000 miles. Good luck.
Tom

Jim,
Who told you this? The dealer? Your Uncle Charlie who used to work on cars back in the 60’s? Unless stated specifically in the warranty or owner’s manual, this is false. The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act of 1972 protects against this sort of thing. It states that the manufacturer carries the burden of proof of any failure whatsoever. They must prove that the installation of the aftermarket product caused the problem. If they can’t, then you are covered. Period. Get the facts straight before changing back. By the way, changing between synthetic and conventional oil does no harm to the engine. Success to you.
Tom

May,
The light is on because the drivetrain computer sees an anomaly in the system. Have the vehicle scanned for codes to identify the cause and repair it. The fact that the vehicle has a hard time rolling concerns me. It could be that the transfer case is locking up due to an electrical malady. Get it scanned and fixed before you do irreversible damage to the drivetrain. Best to you.
Tom

Mark,
Check the brake calipers to see if they are sticking. Also, check to see if there is a blocked rubber brake hose. Both of these conditions could cause the brakes to stay applied with your foot off the brake pedal, which would cause the rotors to heat up and warp. Rotor warpage causes run-out, resulting in pedal pulsation. Also check for worn inboard CV Joints, which could cause the pulsation as well.
Tom

Jean,
It sounds like there’s a problem with the gas tank vent valve, or the gas cap seal, or the evaporative emissions system. Go to the shop immediately after filling the vehicle when the light is on so that they can pull a code for diagnosis. Or you can schedule to leave the vehicle with the shop for a few days. Make sure the gas tank is low so they have to fill it. When the light comes on, they can scan for a code and track down the problem. Best to you.
Tom

Josh,
Check the emergency brake cable on the side that’s overheating. It sounds like the cable has seized, causing the brake to stay applied. Other conditions that cause brakes to hang up are worn return springs, loose anchor springs, and leaking wheel cylinders. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I’ve heard that there are several ways to add antifreeze to a car (some not so clever). Can you please explain the safest way to add antifreeze? I own a 2002 Chevy Cavalier. Thanks,
Wanda from Lubbock, TX

Wanda,
Start with a cold car. Open the radiator cap and top off the coolant. Then start the engine and, as the car warms up and the thermostat opens, top off the coolant until it is full. Re-install the cap and top off the recovery tank. If you follow this procedure, then you have properly filled your engine’s cooling system. Sometimes a vehicle’s cooling system has to be bled after filling the system. On such vehicles, there are bleed screws on the thermostat housing. If this is the case, make sure you bleed the system while filling it until all air is exhausted. One other thing, NEVER open the system’s cap if the engine is warm; make sure it’s cool. You don’t want a hot, scalding shower of engine coolant! Success to you.
Tom

Lydia,
Yes, he is correct. Putting new fluid and filter is a bad transmission is asking for trouble.
When transmissions have high mileage and they’ve been neglected (no fluid and filter change during the life of the trans), there’s nothing you can do other then rebuild or replace them. It sounds like your van has high mileage and the trans is toast. I suggest that you try to find a used low-to-mid-mileage transmission for it. It will be cheaper than rebuilding your old unit. Call your local junkyard and ask if they have a trans for your vehicle. It’s built on the Chrysler minivan platform; Voyagers, Caravans and Town & Country minivan transmissions will interchange with your vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Donald,
The Shop labor rate is $75 an hour regardless of how many people work on the car. Period. If the shop charged $300 for the job and gave that excuse, find another shop! They ripped you a new one!
Tom

Henri,
Your trans could be shifting hard due to burnt fluid, worn internal parts in the unit, torn seals, a faulty engine or transmission sensor, or a bad shift solenoid. Start with a computer scan of the transmission control module and go from there with diagnostics.
Tom

Mary,
Have the ABS module scanned for codes. When this symptom occurs, it’s usually due to a faulty wheel speed sensor. The sensor is “reading” a signal that the wheel has locked up when it has not, thus the ABS is activated on dry ground. Best to you.
Tom

Ardis,
Wow! Branchville, SC? I built a cable TV system in Branchville in 1984. Wonder if it’s still working? It’s a small world indeed! Believe it or not, the way you drive your vehicle is considered a severe service description as per Chrysler’s recommended maintenance schedule. Why? Because the engine never gets a chance to warm up, so it runs in rich fuel mode. When an engine runs in this mode gas spills down into the crankcase and dilutes the oil, diminishing its lubricating and rust-inhibiting properties. Change the oil every six months. If you want to extend the interval, use a top-grade synthetic oil like AMSOIL and change it once a year. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

George,
Rubber wears off the carcass as tires roll down the road. When the tires were originally balanced, they were balanced based on the rubber mass at the time the job was done. Now, 18,600 miles later, the overall rubber mass has changed and thus the trueness of the balance. Based on these facts, I recommend rotating and re-balancing tires every 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. A lot of tire shops offer lifetime rotation and balance service, so you only have to pay for the job one time. I know Goodyear offers this deal. Perhaps there is another shop in your area that does as well. It’s worth it.
Tom

Jim,
A question like this indicates that you are way over your head on this repair. You may want to consider that before proceeding, because it could cost you more in the long run. The clutch bleed screw for the clutch slave cylinder is located on the cylinder (on the bell housing where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch fork). Since this is a front wheel drive vehicle, the slave cylinder should be located towards the firewall. There was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for clutch fluid leakage from the clutch master cylinder on this model vehicle, which would account for the air in the line. Check the brake pedal for brake fluid leakage. If it’s wet, the clutch master cylinder has to be replaced too. The clutch slave cylinder is bled just like brakes. Pump until the pedal gets hard again, hold it down and crack the bleeder screw, and bleed until clear fluid flows out of the cylinder and the pedal is hard. Good luck.
Tom

Louis,
The horn circuit on your vehicle consists of a switch, relay, wiring, horns, and a 20 AMP fuse in the fuse box. Start with the fuse; check your owner’s manual to find its location. Then check it to see if the fuse is blown. If it is, replace it and all should be well providing you don’t have a short in the system. If the fuse blows immediately, then there’s a short in the system that has to be traced. If the fuse is good, then the problem could be a faulty electrical component, wire, power or ground connection. In addition, a bad clock spring can cause loss of power to the horn. It’s an electrical connector with a metal spring design. The clock spring transfers electrical power from the bottom half of the column to the top half where the horn is located. Chrysler issued a recall on this because it also affects the air bag. Check to see if the recall has been done on your vehicle. If not, have it done and this should restore the horn.
Tom

Marsha,
Yes, the dealer is missing something. It’s called a parasitic electrical draw that draws on the battery while the car sits. How do you check for this condition? Hook a voltmeter to the battery and monitor voltage while disconnecting one circuit at a time. When the voltage drops, you have found the faulty circuit. Next you have to trace the circuit until you find the shorted wire or component. Talk to the dealer service manager and ask him to run this test. Best to you.
Tom

Stan,
Yes, I can suggest a fix albeit I don’t know how “cheap” it will be. The wandering could be a loose rack internally, loose rack mounts, loose tie rods, cradle mounts, low tire pressure, worn rag joint at the rack, or worn u-joint in the steering coupler between the rack and steering wheel. Someone is not doing his job to diagnose the problem. Find another shop that’s competent. They should be able find out why your vehicle has wanderlust whilst tooling down the road.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Now, I don’t know about you but that sound alone would cause me to avoid any situation with even the slightest chance that I may have to parallel park. I’m still wondering even in this moment if there wasn’t a less disturbing way to describe the sound…I guess it must have been just that bad.

The conclusion was quickly made that the horrific noise was coming from her power steering. It’s an easy enough car repair to have made but it’s important that she goes in to get it fixed as soon as possible. Holding off on getting a repair made could lead to other issues and more fixes ($$$).

Wear and Tear Coverage

We all have little things that happen to our cars over time, simply from driving them as much as we do. Unfortunately the little things add up – a new tire here, a cracked window there – in this particular case, a power steering issue…It’s for little things like these that Warranty Direct offers Wear and Tear Coverage for their customers.

Wear and Tear extended car warranty protection is the highest level of coverage that someone can purchase and it provides coverage for both parts that break as well as those that simply just wear out.

So whether you have a squirrel in a blender, a rattle snake in a coffee tin or a little miniature man with a whistle making music in your engine – if that funky noise is caused from wear and tear, then Warranty Direct’s Wear and Tear Extended Car Warranty will cover it.