Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 GMC Envoy with 54,000 miles. It has a big engine and only gets 15.5 MPG. Although I love my Envoy, I did consider getting a new SUV (maybe a 4 cylinder) to get better mileage and performance, but I can’t afford to do that right now. I heard that there’s a special air filter that increases mileage and performance in vehicles. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what it is? Or is there is something else I could do? Thank you.
Joanie from West Seneca, NY

Joanie,
Yes, there is an air filter that will increase gas mileage and performance. It’s called K&N. Have one installed in your vehicle. In addition, make sure the tires are inflated properly and change the engine oil to synthetic oil. Finally, change the transmission fluid to synthetic, as well as all the differentials and transfer case. This action will also increase fuel mileage because you will reduce friction in these components by using synthetic lubricants. Best to you.
Tom

James,
The engine in your wagon is a 5.7-liter. No it is not a Corvette engine. The Kelly Blue Book value in “pristine condition” is $5,700. That’s all you can expect to get unless you find someone who can’t live without it and is willing to pay whatever you ask. Then you can click your ruby red slippers three times and say to yourself, “There’s no place like home” and then … wake up and smell the coffee. Come on, James! It’s a Buick station wagon!
Tom

Tina,
I have been buying gas from “the rez” for twenty years with not one problem. Over the years I have heard various comments about gasoline from the reservations. For example, it was rumored that the proprietors on the Indian Reservation were irresponsible and did not check their tanks, tank seals, or pump calibration. Also, they bought cheap gas that had water in it to resell to the public, and many other ridiculous accusations. Since my experience said otherwise, I decided to speak to JD, the manager of Seneca One Stop, in an attempt to understand why these rumors have reigned for years. He offered no reason as to why these rumors exist. However, he showed me the tests that Seneca One Stop goes through to ensure that their tanks are water free, do not leak, and pump gas accurately. He assured me that the quality of the gas they buy is the highest quality offered to the motoring public. He stated that, because of the negative perception, they were overly cautious to make sure they had no problems. I cannot speak for any other Indian fueling stations because I didn’t speak to anyone except Seneca One Stop. However I have purchased “Indian gas” from other proprietors and have never had a problem (unlike a few non-Indian stations I have experienced problems with and later confirmed water was indeed in the gas). Why the rumors? In our capitalistic system, businesses compete for our dollars, so sometimes they talk negatively about one another to get a let-up on their competition. That’s just the way of the world.
Tom

Brian,
I have never heard this urban legend. However, I can tell you that the head gasket on your Nissan engine is probably blown, and that your son probably overheated the engine and drove it in that state until the head gasket blew out. This explains why the engine coolant is disappearing. It is being drawn from the cooling system into the engine and out the tailpipe. Have a talk with you son. I am sure he will confirm this suspicion. Have the engine compression tested and a cylinder leak down test performed. These tests will identify which cylinder is leaking. Removal of the head and resurfacing is necessary before replacing the head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
There is a low coolant warning on my ’99 Jeep Grand Cherokee that won’t go away even though I had the coolant serviced. Also, the carpet is wet and slimy on the front passenger floor. Any help would be appreciated.
Theresa from Palo Alto, CA

Theresa,
Have a cooling system pressure test performed on your Jeep. Specifically, have the service tech look for a leaking heater core. Hot water from the cooling system circulates through the heater core. This heat emanates from the core and is blown into the vehicle’s cabin by the fan (this is how the heater works). When the heater core springs a leak, water from the cooling system leaks into the vehicle’s cabin and coolant is lost, hence the cause of the low coolant warning light and the wet carpet. The fact that the water feels slippery tells me that it’s probably anti freeze. Prepare yourself for a hefty repair bill; heater core replacement is very labor intensive. Wish I had better news.
Tom

Daniel,
BMW is great when it comes to customer satisfaction, in this case, I’m sure BMW would help you. Your best bet is to contact the district zone rep for BMW and explain the situation to him/her. Show them your title of ownership and the recent bill of sale for the car and I’m sure they will make an exception to the rule in this case. Good luck!
Tom

Korinna,
The computer needs to be scanned for trouble codes. It has detected a problem with the engine when it’s wet outside and has set a code, turning the check engine light on. Once the computer has been scanned, the technician can perform a set of pinpoint tests to determine the defective part. My guess is that the tech will find multiple random misfires. The tech will probably mist down the engine compartment with a spray water bottle in an effort to duplicate the problem. You’ll probably find that the sparkplug wires need replacing. Best to you.
Tom

Clancy,
The squeak could be coming from the bushings in the control arms, dry ball joint/s, worn strut insulators, or bearings. Get the car up on a lift and have the front suspension checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Rich,
Ignition switch replacement is common on cars with some mileage, but to have so many switches malfunction in such a short period of time makes me wonder if there is another issue affecting the system. The body control module, main computer, the instrument cluster and their respective wiring are all involved in the starting system. It’s going to take some in-depth diagnostics to track down this little bugger! Find a good electrical diagnostician. It will probably serve you well to arrange to leave the car at the shop so they can experience the problem first hand when it occurs.
Tom

Taylor,
I understand your feelings about the truck. My father gave me my first car too and that car meant a lot to me (until I found a Camaro I wanted bad enough, then I traded the Pontiac in). Here’s what you should do. First off, hook a mechanical gauge to an oil gallery in the engine and run it to verify actual oil pressure. If it’s okay, then the vehicle probably has a problem with the oil pressure-sending unit (which is quite common on older vehicles), the wiring to it, or the gauge in the dash. If the oil pressure is found to be low, then the oil pan has to come down and the lower end inspected for worn bearings, oil pump, or the likes. In this case, you might want to employ the service of a professional tech to evaluate the engine before repairing or replacing it. Or, take out a book on engine overhaul and go to it, if you have the mechanical aptitude or inclination. I rebuilt my first engine at 16 years of age, so you’re ready! Call the show and let me know how it worked out. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

You can also download the file by clicking here: Tom Torbjornsen Explains How To Purchase A Used Car Warranty

To hear the entire show visit America’s Car Show’s Sirius/XM Radio Archives and select the July 4th’s show.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘02 Toyota Highlander 4 cylinder, 62,000 miles. My local shop sent me a notice to have the EFI throttle body serviced. What is an EFI throttle body and how often does it need service? The vehicle is running fine, so I wonder if this service is really necessary at this time?
Bert from San Dimas, MX

Bert,
EFI stands for Electronic Fuel Injection and Throttle Body is the term for a component in the injection system where air is taken into the engine. Fuel injection systems require cleaning at regular intervals, every 35 – 40 thousand miles. This process is necessary because varnish deposits, dirt, and carbon build up on the end of the injector nozzles, inside fuel rails, inside intake plenums, on the tops of the pistons, and inside the cylinder heads and valves. The cleaning process involves injecting an industrial grade carbon cleaner into the system, and then letting it sit to liquefy any carbon buildup in the engine. A professional cleaning of the injection system and upper regions of the engine usually results in increased performance and better fuel mileage.
Tom

Ruthann,
In regards to the spastic oil pressure reading, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge to confirm actual oil pressure. If it is low, the engine will have to be disassembled for proper inspection of the parts that relate to oil pressure. If the oil pressure is okay, then check for a bad sending unit or wiring to the unit (this is most likely the cause of the erratic readings). The popping sound could be a bad ball joint, control arm bushing shock, or some other suspension part. Get the truck up in the air for a suspension inspection. Success to you.
Tom

Bob,
I can’t answer why the knock appeared so suddenly unless I explored the engine. The cause could be a bad oil pump, excessive sludge buildup preventing oil flow to bearings, bad engine oil, as well as a host of other reasons. Pistons are connected to the crankshaft via a connecting rod. The rod bolts to the crank using a split metal cap. Bearing inserts are placed on the cap and this surface is what rides in the crankshaft journal. Oil is pumped into the bearing saddle and acts as a cushion between the crank journal and the bearing surface. The reason for the knock? The bearing inserts at the end of the connecting rod have worn out, causing a hammering (or knocking) effect when the piston travels up and down. Your mechanic’s assessment of replacement or rebuilding is probably accurate. Before sentencing your engine to death in the bone yard, drop the oil pan and inspect the crankshaft to evaluate the extent of the damage. I wish you success.
Tom

Barb,
If you think the shop will not like the fact that you want to see the parts that need replacing then you are going to the wrong shop (and your husband has the wrong attitude). As a consumer you are entitled to see why the work needs to be done. I suggest you find a dependable repair shop if this tire shop will be offended because you want to see what needs repairing or replacing. Call your local Triple A, ask for an Approved Repair Center in your area, and get a second opinion. As for the ‘lit’ ABS light, the brake computer has to be scanned for codes and the malady repaired (perhaps a speed sensor, broken wiring, or hub assembly). In regards to the transmission question, if the fluid in your trans were burnt or very brown, then yes, I would say to leave it alone because the trans has probably been overheated. When a trans overheats it cooks the clutches and rubber seals. When you replace the fluid on a ‘cooked’ unit, the clutches come unglued from their backing and the unit fails. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

“The WarrantyDirect.com Ford Fusion was a top 10 car at the end of practice and we liked our chances for a strong finish tonight” said Lagasse Jr. “Unfortunately we had a sway bar arm break in the middle of the race and we didn’t end up with the finish that we had hoped for.”

Dear Tom,
I was told that there is no advantage to using synthetic engine oil over conventional oil. I do not believe this is true. Also, I was told that conventional oil used with a stabilizer would accomplish the same thing as synthetic oil. Is this true? Thanks.
Nick from Bemus Pt, NY

Nick,
Whoever told you that synthetic motor oil has no advantages compared to conventional oil doesn’t know what he is talking about. Synthetic oil is more resistant to viscosity breakdown (loss of ability to flow and thus lubricate) from heat, friction, and chemical contamination (the hostile environment of an operating internal combustion engine). Synthetic oil was originally developed for use in aircraft to address the extreme operating environment of the jet engines. On the intake side, aircraft jet engines operate at very cold temperatures because of the rush of air, ambient temperatures, and venturi effect. On the exhaust side, the aircraft jet engine is very hot. Conventional oils simply did not stand up well under these conditions, so engineers designed a syntheticly fortified lubricating oil to avoid the problems associated with conventional petroleum lubricants. The new formula worked well, so AMSOIL founder and president Al Amatuzio (at the time, a jet fighter pilot in our armed forces) set out to develop synthetic motor oil suitable for automotive applications. The first synthetic engine oil for cars entered the market in 1972. Today’s synthetic oils flow better than petroleum oil in cold temperatures, providing internal protection during winter start up. Obviously, the quality of synthetic oil varies. In my opinion, based on the research I have seen, AMSOIL and Mobile One are number one and number two respectively. Finally, adding a stabilizer to conventional oil does not provide the same advantages as synthetic oils.
Tom

Steve,
The wiper arm has to be replaced. The tension spring (located inside the arm) keeps the wiper blade snug against the windshield glass. When the spring wears out, the wiper arm lifts off the glass. Replace the arm and problem solved!
Tom

Ed,
Small convex mirrors are a good addition to the driver’s side to eliminate blind spots. The passenger’s side mirror is already of the convex design, that’s why it says “Objects May Be Closer Than They Appear.” As for why carmakers don’t add convex mirrors on the driver’s side? Bottom line, cost. End of story.
Tom

Lois,
I checked my database for brake recalls on these vehicles and came up with nothing. Call your local dealer and give them your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to run in their database to make sure there’s no action from Chrysler on this condition. If not, perhaps you ran the brake shoes too long on the car, resulting in failure? Or, if they were replaced at one time or another, perhaps the shop used inferior shoes, causing the glue to crystallize that could result in shoe failure. It’s impossible to tell without seeing the old parts and the service history of the vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Lloyd,
Check for a dislodged vacuum line, crossed wire, or an inadvertently grounded sparkplug electrode either from dirt in the air gap or from the electrode crushed down to the ground position. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of these areas. Best to you.
Tom

Sheila,
First, check the coolant level. It sounds like the coolant is low and an air bubble is circulating through the system. If it is low, then check for a coolant leak. If the level is good, then there could be a vacuum leak causing the air blend door to open and close on engine demand. Check the vacuum lines that feed the heater system. There’s a vacuum chamber in the engine compartment that stores vacuum for the heater system to draw on when needed. That chamber is usually made of plastic and it can crack, resulting in erratic heater blend door operation. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of there areas. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
There is a scrubbing noise coming from the left rear of my Toyota Camry LE. I had it checked out but they can’t find anything wrong. Please help! It sounds like some part is rubbing against another part. When I drive into my driveway it gets louder. When I am driving down the road, it is not as loud but I can still hear it.
Mary from Philadelphia, PA

Mary,
You didn’t tell me the year of your Camry LE so I could only guess that it is an ’02 or older, because that was the last year Camry was made with an LE trim. Also, that car came with either 4 wheel disc brakes or disc/drum combination. In either case I would check the emergency brake cable to see if it’s frozen. A frozen cable will keep the rear brake/s applied. I would also check the backing plates on the rear, as both types of systems have backing plates that could bend and rub against the disc or drum. Finally, I would check for a bad rear suspension spring or strut that could be causing the body to come down on the tire/s when going over a curb or bump. That’s the best info I can give you because I don’t know the year of your car. Success to you.
Tom

Rich,
According to my ALLDATA database, the door lock mechanism is roughly $135. As for labor, it’s only an hour for each door. I would get a breakdown of the repair, specifically the labor. Where do they justify the additional $320? If they stand firm on the estimate given, then they are charging way too much for the lock replacement and I would consult a AAA Approved Auto Repair Facility that specializes in foreign car repairs. You can find one through your local AAA club.
Tom

Cookie,
Your description of Emeril was superb! Have the struts and strut mounts checked. It sounds like they are worn out. I would also check the sway bar bushings because, when they wear out, the sway bar can bang on the underside of the car, especially when going over bumps. As for a shop you can trust, consult your local AAA Club for a AAA Approved Repair Facility in your area. Success to you.
Tom

Kathleen,
The following TSB was issued from Ford on this very issue for your car:
2004 Mercury Sable V6-3.0L A/C – Erratic / Inoperative Blower Motor
TSB 04-15-3 08/09/04
WATER IN THE BLOWER CASE – BLOWER MOTOR
AND/OR RESISTOR FAILURE – VEHICLES BUILT
5/1/2001 TO 12/15/2003
FORD:
2001-2004 Taurus
MERCURY:
2001-2004 Sable ISSUE:
Some vehicles built between 5/1/2001 and 12/15/2003 may exhibit water in the blower case or on the passenger side floor, an inoperative climate control blower motor, a motor that operates on high speed only, and/or a blower motor resistor failure.
ACTION Inspect and seal cowl area and install Rain-Hat Extension Seal. Inspect and replace blower motor and/or blower motor resistor if there is evidence of water/corrosion.
Take it to your local dealer to have this service performed and the rain hat installed to stop water from entering the blower motor case; this will stop your problem. Best to you.
Tom

Steven,
Given the labor intensive nature of this operation (6 hrs according to the book) plus the cost of the evaporator ($432) and the cost of new refrigerant and an oil charge, plus evacuation and reclaiming the system, I understand why it is so expensive. Short of doing it yourself, I doubt you will find a better price (much less anyone willing to embark on disassembling your dashboard to replace the evaporator). Try your local AAA club to find a AAA Qualified Repair Facility near you to give you another quote. And remember, cheaper is not necessarily better. The shop must have the equipment, tools, and know-how to perform such an operation… and for that you pay.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ’94 Mitsubishi 3000GT-SL with 121,000 miles. At about 95 – 100,000 miles it started burning oil (no leaks obvious) with blue smoke in the exhaust on startup. In the last couple of months the oil consumption is rapidly increasing. On “general principles” I replaced the PCV valve recently to no avail. On a bulletin board for these cars, there has been talk of valve oil seal problems. Could the seals get to the point where they fail completely and oil consumption take a sudden leap?
Spencer from Australia (Down Under)

Spencer,
Yes, seals could harden and break up, causing oil consumption to accelerate greatly as oil spills down the valve stems and into the combustion chambers to be burned. Pull a valve cover and inspect the valve seals. It’s time to delve deeper into engine diagnostics with cylinder leak-down and compression testing.
Good luck, mate!
Tom

Spencer asks a question that many vehicles experience, namely oil consumption at high mileage. What are the causes? What diagnostic tests should be performed?

Causes of oil consumption

Bad valve seals: The valves are located in the cylinder head above the combustion chamber. Oil is pumped at 50 to 80 psi of pressure into the top of the head, lubricating the valve-train. The valves have seals that stop the flow of oil down into the engine when the valve is open. If the seals fail, oil flows down into the combustion chamber and is burned.

Worn valve guides: The valves are guided by a small cylindrical chamber called a valve guide. These guides wear over time causing eccentricity (slop). The excess gap allows oil to flow down the valve stem and into the combustion chamber to be burned. You might be wondering why the valve seals don’t stop the oil. Because the gap is too large for the seal to work.

Pressurized crankcase due to clogged PCV or breather system: Your car’s engine is a giant pump, therefore it must breathe. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system does just this; it allows the engine to exhaust the excess crankcase pressure that builds up (a natural phenomenon of the internal combustion engine). These gases are captured and fed back into the engine to be burned. Carbon (a by-product of engines) can build up in the PCV system, clogging the breathing passages. This, in turn, pressurizes the oil pan and pushes oil up into the fuel delivery system, where it is fed into the engine and burned.

Blow-by from worn piston rings: The pistons in your car’s engine have seals around them in the form of rings. These rings have two functions: (1) They seal the combustion chamber so that the precious power produced from the firing of the cylinder is not lost. (2) They provide vital lubrication to the cylinder walls. When the rings wear out the pressure from combustion reverses down into the oil pan. Pressure in the oil pan forces oil into the valve covers, through the breather system, back into the fuel delivery system, and into the engine to be burned.

Tracking down the cause of oil consumption

PCV system: Remove the PCV valve with the engine running. There should be a strong vacuum pulling on the valve. If there is no vacuum, the system is clogged with sludge and carbon. It should be cleaned and the valve replaced.

Valve stem seals and guides: Remove the valve cover and shine a strong light on each valve stem. If the seals are gone, then further inspection is warranted. Pressurize the cylinder and remove the valve spring to closely inspect for a worn valve guide evidenced by broken-up valve stem seals).

If nothing is found after checking for a clogged PCV system and valve stem seals & guides, then run a cylinder leak-down test. In this test, each cylinder is charged with 120 lbs of compressed air and the engine is monitored to determine where the air is escaping from the cylinder. If air is escaping from the crankcase, then the piston rings are worn. You can also perform a compression test. Remove the spark plugs and test each cylinder individually for the total PSI of compression. If you find that one cylinder is low, then wet test it. To wet test the cylinder, remove the gauge, squirt oil into the cylinder, and then retest it. If the compression in that cylinder comes up, then that cylinder has worn piston rings. How do we know this? Because when oil was squirted into the cylinder, it filled the gap between the worn rings and cylinder wall, sealing the ring gap and thus increasing compression. In this is the case, consider rebuilding or replacing the engine.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Malibu LS. I recently had the front and rear rotors and pads replaced, as well as the rear calipers. About 750 miles later the brakes started squealing. The pads cost $50 each; the rotors were $46 each; the calipers were $79 each. I brought the car back to shop at once and they cleaned the brakes. However, they are still squealing. Any solutions?
Joe from Long Island

Joe,
Brake squeal is a common problem and the result of a high-pitched vibration of the pad/s. Either the pad anti-rattle clips are worn/broken or the pad insulators were not installed at the time of the brake job. Get the vehicle back to the shop and have these checked. Best to you.
Tom

Michael,
Yes, your driving pattern is a textbook case for using synthetic motor oil. When a vehicle sits without being driven much, acid and moisture accumulate in the crankcase, causing erosion of the main and rod bearings. Good synthetic motor oil guards against chemical and moisture contamination because of the chemically fortified base stock. I recommend either AMSOIL or Mobil One, (number one and two).
Tom

Don,
You will have to water-test the car’s body to find the leak. Get in the car with a light and have someone soak down the body with a water hose at the point where you think the water is entering the vehicle. Use the light to find where the water is coming in, and then seal the leak. It could be entering via a door, a window, or a windshield gasket. Success to you.
Tom

Susan,
Why would you take a vehicle with an obvious drivability/engine problem to a transmission specialist? That’s like going to a brain specialist for a broken arm (just wondering about your logic here). I can’t give you a specific direction to solve the stalling problem. However, I would suggest that you leave the vehicle with a shop that specializes in engine drivability for a few days so they can drive it with a scanner hooked up to it, and the tech can monitor what’s going on when the problem occurs. This is the best course of action given the erratic nature of your Durango’s malady.
Tom

Glenn,
First off, there was no such thing as a “T-Bucket Roadster” 90 years ago. The base vehicle that the T-Bucket was made from had to be something that was not modified (whether it was a pickup or some sort of coupe or sedan). I just want to get a clear understanding of what we’re looking at before proceeding forward with advice. That said, when buying any car (custom, modified or OEM) conduct a stem to stern inspection of the key systems (electrical, drivetrain, powertrain, suspension, brakes, undercarriage, etc). In addition, the inspection might include an engine compression test, electrical values of the charging/starting system, hydraulic test of the trans (if automatic), fluid samples of drivetrain components such as diffferential/s, transfer case, transaxle, and any gearboxes in the drivetrain. I might even go as far as an engine oil analysis to determine internal engine health before making an offer. Finally, if the vehicle is touted to be an original rare piece, do a numbers match analysis to make sure it is indeed original. Consider bringing a vehicle appraiser in before the sale to confirm that the car is what the seller claims it to be. Best to you.
Tom

Martha,
Have the drivetrain control module scanned for codes. It sounds like the lockup converter control solenoid is not disengaging the clutch in the converter when you shift gears. This would account for stalling when you change gears. A good transmission shop should be able to scan it for you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
Two weeks ago I inadvertently filled my 2004 Toyota Camry’s gas tank with half a tank of diesel fuel. The dealer drained and cleaned the tank and replaced the spark plugs and air filter. The day after I got the car back, the “check engine light” came on, and the dealer said the catalytic converter was gummed up and should be replaced, along with the oxygen sensors. I haven’t had this work done yet. Is it necessary since the car is running well (and there is no rotten-egg smell)? It would cost me over $2,000. Yikes!
Patricia from Vera Cruise, CA

Patricia,
First and foremost, next time you fill up make sure the pump nozzle fits into your gas tank filler-neck before pulling the pump nozzle trigger. The diesel nozzle is larger than the gasoline nozzle; therefore it can’t possibly fit into your gas tank filler-neck. As for the lit check engine light, try running the vehicle for a few weeks in an effort to burn any remaining diesel fuel out of the system. Then have the system reset to see if the light stays off. If it doesn’t, you have done irreversible damage to the catalytic converter and O2 sensor/s and they will have to be replaced. If you don’t like the price quoted at the dealer, get a couple more estimates from reputable independent shops. Good luck to you.
Tom

Carlo,
If I had to cite a weakness on these engines (not the car; overall the car is great), I would have to point to the soft camshafts. The cams in these engines are prone to wearing prematurely. If this was in fact a police car, the engine might be a high performance engine, which would probably have a hardened steel cam and crankshaft. Run the numbers on the engine before buying to verify this. And, as always, have a Carfax Report and a pre-purchase inspection done by a trusted tech prior to plunking down the cashola. Good luck.
Tom

Robert,
Prolonged use of regular gas in an engine designed to use high-test gas will damage the engine over time. A condition called pre-ignition occurs. When the low octane fuel enters the combustion chamber, it pre-ignites before the top of the compression stroke when ignition is supposed to occur. Pre-ignition damages the tops of pistons, face of cylinder heads, and valves. Advise your girlfriend to run the high test; it’s cheaper than engine repair/replacement.
Tom

Sandi,
It could be rod knock inside the engine or it could be an exhaust leak. Open the hood and locate the origin of the noise. Is it coming from the exterior of the engine or from inside the engine? If it is from the exterior, check the exhaust flange where the pipe connects to the exhaust manifold, and check the exhaust manifold itself. It could be a bad flange seal at the pipe, or a blown manifold gasket, or a cracked manifold. If the noise is coming from the inside of the engine, then I would start with an oil pressure test and proceed from there with partial engine disassembly and inspection. Good luck!
Tom

Buddy,
There’s not much you can do other than appeal to the local Ford Zone Rep. Call Ford customer service and contact the Zone Rep directly, because they have the authority to make a decision. Sometimes they are willing to pay for part of the repair. If you have to pay for it or part of it, then get a couple of estimates for the repair and then make your decision. I think you will find that the dealer offers the cheapest deal and the best warranty. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
If I want to buy my car at the end of the lease, is the price negotiable? They want $15,000. Will they take less? Thank you.
Anne from WA

Ann,
You didn’t give me year, make, and model so I can’t tell you if this is a good price. That said, you must realize that in car sales and leasing EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE!! Especially when you might return a leased car with mileage on it. The dealer wants to sell the vehicle to keep inventory down. Do your homework and find out exactly what the car is worth based on local market values, vehicle condition, equipment, and mileage. Then negotiate hard, especially since inventories are on the rise again. You should be able to get a better price. Success to you.
Tom

Mary.
Assuming your mechanic ruled out all possibilities regarding the rear suspension and the wheel chair lift supports where they secure to the vehicle body and frame, and based on the fact that the noise was absent without the scooter and present with the scooter, then it is probable that the scooter is not properly secured in it’s holding bracket while the vehicle is in motion, hence the rattle. Have this checked. Best to you.
Tom

William,
The fact that you only hear the “screaming” (as you call it) under load or acceleration tells me that the serpentine belt is probably loose or worn out. This is common when the belt stops biting into the pulleys. Have the serpentine belt checked for wear, tears, or missing ribs. If any of these conditions are evident, replace the belt. If the belt is fine then check the automatic tensioner. This spring keeps the belt properly adjusted and it might be broken or worn out, resulting in a loose belt that would “scream” under load.
Tom

Sandra,
In a word, no. The brakes will not wear out by parking on an incline. However, if you drive the car without releasing the parking brake, the rear brakes will wear out in short order. Why? Because, when the parking brake is on, the rear brakes are applied to either the drums or rotors (depending on if you have rear drum or disc brakes). So make sure you release the parking brake whenever you drive off from parking on one of those marvelous hills in San Fran! Success to you.
Tom

Vern,
You changed the engine mounts, but what about the transmission mounts? If a trans mount is worn out, it will cause the symptoms you’re experiencing. Why? Because the rubber wears out which causes the mount to sink and ground to the frame or engine cradle. If this is evident, engine torque will cause a drivetrain vibration (especially in reverse). Also, check the engine cradle mounts, because they could be loose or bad. As for the roar you’re hearing from the tires? It could be either choppy wear on the tires or a bad wheel bearing. Have that checked as well. Good luck.
Tom

Jim,
If you’re going to let a car sit in the garage with gas in it, pour a bottle of fuel stabilizer into the tank. The stabilizer will maintain the octane and keep the gas from separating and dropping varnish into the bottom of the tank. There are some great fuel stabilizer products out there. Check with your local dealer for what they suggest. One that I swear by is K100G from Kinetic Labs. Their website: www.kineticfueltreatment.com. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2003 KIA Spectra 1.6L. The timing belt broke recently while I was driving down the road. My Car User Manual says to change the belt at 90,000 km. I changed it earlier based on the recommendation by my KIA service department at 61,300km. When the timing belt broke, the mileage was at 111,000 km. This means I have only used the belt for about 50,000 km. I lodged a complaint at the consumer court to make a claim against the shop.

However, the shop came up with an excuse that I have not been servicing my engine with oil and oil filter changes on a regular basis, which caused the timing belt to fail early. Can this be a reason for why the belt broke? I have diligently changed the oil and filter according to factory recommendations (every 10,000 km). I use semi-synthetic oil.

My question to you is: Do oil and filter changes have any bearing on the aging of the timing belt? I know that sludging occurs if I don’t change the oil/filter, but the belt breaking? Your opinion is much sought after … and pardon my stupid question.
Ong from Seattle, WA

Ong,
The only stupid question is the one that doesn’t get asked. Your question is a good one and needs to be answered to substantiate your claim with KIA. First off, oil changes have no bearing on timing belt life or performance. Timing belts break for three reasons: An encumbrance cutting the belt such as a twisted piece of metal from the timing belt cover; excessive soaking of the belt with oil or engine coolant, which causes the belt to soften and break up; and finally, wear from age. That’s about it. Success to you on your claim.
Tom

Effie,
There are many possible causes of an A/C leak. A broken A/C refrigerant line, leaking evaporator core, leaking condenser or dryer, a faulty compressor or a leak in one of the lines. Have the dealer perform a dye test on the system. The tech installs a fluorescent dye in the system and then you will drive the vehicle that day. The next day you bring the car back to the shop so that the tech can shine an ultra violet light on the A/C system to locate the leak (shows up as a bring yellow color). This test makes finding stubborn A/C leaks a snap. Best to you.
Tom

Sergio,
The two problems could be related. Get the car up on a lift and have the rear suspension checked for a bad control arm mounting bushing or shock bushing. Also, check the rear brakes for a hung up brake shoe, bad return spring, loose backing plate, or seized e-brake cable. There’s not much more I can suggest without looking at the car myself. Good luck!
Tom

Randi,
There’s no reason why this car can’t use synthetic oil. Just check your owner’s manual before switching over to make sure. Some manufacturers do not recommend the use of synthetic oil for engine-engineering reasons. The oil change interval with synthetic can be extended from 3,000 miles to 7,500 miles or 3 months to 6 months, whichever comes first. The two best synthetics out there are AMSOIL and Mobil One. Make sure to use an OEM quality oil filter when changing, and yes, 13,400 miles is a good time to switch over. Best to you.
Tom

John,
Make sure the area you are working on is clear of obstruction. ANY component that is in the way should be cleared, alternators included. Next, make sure you center punch the broken bolt so you can drill in the center of the bolt. Use a drill that has variable speed control and drill slowly and deliberately. I suggest you get a titanium drill bit set and start with a small bit, working up one size at a time until you are one size away from drilling out the threads. Once you have gotten to this point, take a tap that fits the hole and thread size and start running the tap into the bolt hole. SLOWLY and DELIBERATELY turn a half turn, then back out and turn a little deeper, then back out, and so on. The tap will cut the old bolt out and find the original threads. Use lubricant and air (if available) to clear the hole of metal. This job can be done if you take it very slowly and meticulously. Good luck. Let me know how it turns out.

Stan,
This is correct. The two chemicals are different in their chemical makeup and if mixed, will react and change to a consistency of Jell-O. This will cause the engine to overheat and blow head gaskets or warp/crack cylinder head/s. Don’t mix the two!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I’ve heard that there are several ways to add antifreeze to a car (some not so clever). Can you please explain the safest way to add antifreeze? I own a 2002 Chevy Cavalier. Thanks,
Wanda from Lubbock, TX

Wanda,
Start with a cold car. Open the radiator cap and top off the coolant. Then start the engine and, as the car warms up and the thermostat opens, top off the coolant until it is full. Re-install the cap and top off the recovery tank. If you follow this procedure, then you have properly filled your engine’s cooling system. Sometimes a vehicle’s cooling system has to be bled after filling the system. On such vehicles, there are bleed screws on the thermostat housing. If this is the case, make sure you bleed the system while filling it until all air is exhausted. One other thing, NEVER open the system’s cap if the engine is warm; make sure it’s cool. You don’t want a hot, scalding shower of engine coolant! Success to you.
Tom

Lydia,
Yes, he is correct. Putting new fluid and filter is a bad transmission is asking for trouble.
When transmissions have high mileage and they’ve been neglected (no fluid and filter change during the life of the trans), there’s nothing you can do other then rebuild or replace them. It sounds like your van has high mileage and the trans is toast. I suggest that you try to find a used low-to-mid-mileage transmission for it. It will be cheaper than rebuilding your old unit. Call your local junkyard and ask if they have a trans for your vehicle. It’s built on the Chrysler minivan platform; Voyagers, Caravans and Town & Country minivan transmissions will interchange with your vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Donald,
The Shop labor rate is $75 an hour regardless of how many people work on the car. Period. If the shop charged $300 for the job and gave that excuse, find another shop! They ripped you a new one!
Tom

Henri,
Your trans could be shifting hard due to burnt fluid, worn internal parts in the unit, torn seals, a faulty engine or transmission sensor, or a bad shift solenoid. Start with a computer scan of the transmission control module and go from there with diagnostics.
Tom

Mary,
Have the ABS module scanned for codes. When this symptom occurs, it’s usually due to a faulty wheel speed sensor. The sensor is “reading” a signal that the wheel has locked up when it has not, thus the ABS is activated on dry ground. Best to you.
Tom

Ardis,
Wow! Branchville, SC? I built a cable TV system in Branchville in 1984. Wonder if it’s still working? It’s a small world indeed! Believe it or not, the way you drive your vehicle is considered a severe service description as per Chrysler’s recommended maintenance schedule. Why? Because the engine never gets a chance to warm up, so it runs in rich fuel mode. When an engine runs in this mode gas spills down into the crankcase and dilutes the oil, diminishing its lubricating and rust-inhibiting properties. Change the oil every six months. If you want to extend the interval, use a top-grade synthetic oil like AMSOIL and change it once a year. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

George,
Rubber wears off the carcass as tires roll down the road. When the tires were originally balanced, they were balanced based on the rubber mass at the time the job was done. Now, 18,600 miles later, the overall rubber mass has changed and thus the trueness of the balance. Based on these facts, I recommend rotating and re-balancing tires every 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. A lot of tire shops offer lifetime rotation and balance service, so you only have to pay for the job one time. I know Goodyear offers this deal. Perhaps there is another shop in your area that does as well. It’s worth it.
Tom

Jim,
A question like this indicates that you are way over your head on this repair. You may want to consider that before proceeding, because it could cost you more in the long run. The clutch bleed screw for the clutch slave cylinder is located on the cylinder (on the bell housing where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch fork). Since this is a front wheel drive vehicle, the slave cylinder should be located towards the firewall. There was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for clutch fluid leakage from the clutch master cylinder on this model vehicle, which would account for the air in the line. Check the brake pedal for brake fluid leakage. If it’s wet, the clutch master cylinder has to be replaced too. The clutch slave cylinder is bled just like brakes. Pump until the pedal gets hard again, hold it down and crack the bleeder screw, and bleed until clear fluid flows out of the cylinder and the pedal is hard. Good luck.
Tom

Louis,
The horn circuit on your vehicle consists of a switch, relay, wiring, horns, and a 20 AMP fuse in the fuse box. Start with the fuse; check your owner’s manual to find its location. Then check it to see if the fuse is blown. If it is, replace it and all should be well providing you don’t have a short in the system. If the fuse blows immediately, then there’s a short in the system that has to be traced. If the fuse is good, then the problem could be a faulty electrical component, wire, power or ground connection. In addition, a bad clock spring can cause loss of power to the horn. It’s an electrical connector with a metal spring design. The clock spring transfers electrical power from the bottom half of the column to the top half where the horn is located. Chrysler issued a recall on this because it also affects the air bag. Check to see if the recall has been done on your vehicle. If not, have it done and this should restore the horn.
Tom

Marsha,
Yes, the dealer is missing something. It’s called a parasitic electrical draw that draws on the battery while the car sits. How do you check for this condition? Hook a voltmeter to the battery and monitor voltage while disconnecting one circuit at a time. When the voltage drops, you have found the faulty circuit. Next you have to trace the circuit until you find the shorted wire or component. Talk to the dealer service manager and ask him to run this test. Best to you.
Tom

Stan,
Yes, I can suggest a fix albeit I don’t know how “cheap” it will be. The wandering could be a loose rack internally, loose rack mounts, loose tie rods, cradle mounts, low tire pressure, worn rag joint at the rack, or worn u-joint in the steering coupler between the rack and steering wheel. Someone is not doing his job to diagnose the problem. Find another shop that’s competent. They should be able find out why your vehicle has wanderlust whilst tooling down the road.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Josh,
According to Honda, the timing belt replacement interval for your car is every 105,000 miles. There is no time interval. Given the age of the vehicle, I would remove the timing belt cover and inspect the belt for cracks or broken ribs. If it looks good, then reinstall the cover and check it again in another 25,000 miles. Your Civic has an interference engine which means, if the timing belt breaks, the valves will collide violently with the pistons, causing catastrophic engine failure. Honda also says to inspect the water pump at the same time you inspect or change the belt because the water pump is driven by the timing belt. If the water pump goes, replace the timing belt too. Why? Because you have to remove the belt (labor intensive) in order to replace the pump anyway, and this should give you peace of mind, knowing you won’t be facing engine failure down the road due to a broken timing belt. Success to you.
Tom

Ray,
At this stage it’s a bit late to change to synthetic oil. You need to find the cause of the engine knock. Chemical changes and “quick fixes” don’t reverse the effects of metal wear and fatigue, which is what your engine is exhibiting. Perform an oil pressure test to find out if the oil pressure is low and go from there. If it’s low, then you need to partially disassemble the engine to determine the extent of the internal wear. My guess? You’ve got internal bearing wear, specifically rod/main bearings, and possibly the oil pump. Good luck.
Tom

Sandra,
The answer to this question is a tough call. On high mileage transmissions, fluid change is a crapshoot because one has no way of knowing the extent of internal wear. When the old fluid is burnt and worn out (dark brown), there is an increase in friction and thus heat. The excess heat reacts with the glue on the back of the clutches and makes it brittle and crystallized. When new fluid is introduced into the trans, the detergents in the fluid scrub the old glue away from the back of the clutches which renders the transmission useless. Take it to the dealer. Have them drop the pan so they know the extent of internal wear, and proceed from there. If the wear material in the pan is extensive, change the fluid in the pan and filter, button it up, and drive it. Don’t do a complete flush.
Tom

Kevin,
Your decision to keep the car and replace the engine is a good one, assuming that you have maintained the car meticulously over the years as you implied. To find a low mileage engine, you have to search the salvage yards. Higher quality salvage yards post engine mileage on the engine AND offer a good warranty that covers parts and labor should the used power plant fail within the allotted time/mileage of the warranty. Obviously you will pay more money for a lower mileage engine. If the yard doesn’t have what you’re looking for, ask them to go on the “Hot Wire” to find one. This is a network of yards that share their inventory with each other to better serve the public and move their inventory. Also, when replacing the engine, make sure you get the emissions-related parts that go with the new engine or you will have problems with the drivability and emissions inspection in your state. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,

I recently saw a mechanic on cable TV replace the standard stop light bulbs in a 2004 Honda Accord EX with LED bulbs. I am trying to purchase the bulbs for my Accord, but no one carries them, not even the Honda dealerships I contacted. Do you know where I can purchase them?

Paul from Henderson, NC

Paul,
LED (Light Emitting Diodes) replacement bulbs are very sturdy, waterproof, longer lasting, and brighter than standard bulbs. For this reason our military retrofitted most military vehicles (tanks among them) with this great lighting alternative. It’s important to note that LEDs require a special replacement-bulb assembly. Check out your local speed/accessory shop. They will have an application book for the LED lighting assemblies you need. Good luck to you.
Tom

I own a ‘93 Jeep Wrangler. It died while I was driving it the other day. First the speedometer stopped working, then the radio, and finally the engine quit (it all took about 30 sec). My husband said it sounded like the alternator went bad and the battery died. Actually, the batter was dead so I got a new one and hooked it up. Then my husband replaced the alternator with a new one, and still the car stalls. What’s wrong with this picture?

Marianne from Brooklyn, NY

Marianne,
According to my ALLDATA database, this make/model of vehicle has many electrical problems with the starting/charging system. As a matter of fact, there were two recalls on this vehicle for faulty electrical connectors at the bulkhead connector. Get it to a dealership and have the recalls performed; this should fix your problem. Make sure you explain the problem to them clearly so that they will know what recall applies. The recall repair should not cost you any money. Best to you.
Tom

The front suspension on my ‘94 Chrysler Town & Country is very sensitive to potholes and pits in the road. The car bangs very hard. I heard that there is a pattern problem with the front stabilizer arm bushings on the Chrysler minivans from this period. Is this true?

Don from Kennebunkport, ME

Don,

Go ahead and check the stabilizer bar links. However, the sway bar insulator bushings are the main problem with these vans. When the insulator bushings crush from wear and degradation, the sway bar comes in contact with the undercarriage, banging on it when going over bumps. This is the sound you are hearing. Success to you.

Tom

Recently I changed the oil in my 2005 Corvette. I used Valvoline Fully Synthetic rather than Mobile One because it’s a little cheaper. Is there any difference in fully synthetic oils? I hope the one I used wasn’t a compromise.

Barry from Wash, DC

Barry,

There can be many blending differences in the chemical packages when comparing synthetic oils. Specifically, some blends offer more protection and lubrication. AMSOIL and Mobil One are number one and two respectively. Why chance damage to the very expensive powerplant in your ‘Vette to save a few dollars? You’re okay for now. But next time you change the oil, use the best products out there.
Tom

My son just bought a ‘97 Chevy 3/4-ton pickup to use as a work truck. It has a LOT of miles on it, but it has a new timing chain. The truck also has new spark plugs and wires, and a new rotor cap. However, when the engine levels out, it makes a popping sound (almost sounds like a carburetor backfiring). It has power to spare and runs well under a load, but the popping speeds up with acceleration. Any ideas?

Ray from Joliet, IL

Ray,
Try to isolate the cylinder that’s popping by removing one sparkplug wire at a time while the engine is running. Once you isolate the cylinder, remove that valve cover and inspect the valvetrain while the engine is running. Sounds like you have either a collapsed lifter or rounded cam lobe. I suspect there’s internal engine wear and the engine needs to be rebuilt. You will be able to determine if this is the case when you remove the valve cover and/or the oil pan to inspect the bearings for wear. Good luck.

I own a ‘98 Buick Century with 48,000 miles and it’s in very good condition. However, as the weather warms up, the car acts up. When I stop the car after a long drive on a warm day, I have difficulty restarting it. The car has to sit for about an hour before it will start. Every time I take it to the repair shop they can’t duplicate the problem. Can you make a suggestion?

Samuel from MT

Samuel,

This is obviously an intermittent problem, so you may have to leave the car at the shop for a few days so they can duplicate the condition. That’s the best advice I can give. Sounds like the problem is an ignition component that’s subject to hot soak. But don’t replace any parts until you confirm this suspicion. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site:  www.americascarshow.com

This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.

Dear Tom,

Recently I bought a used Pontiac 2004 Grand Prix as is, with no warranty. I was told the car had no problems. I test-drove the car before buying it and it handled well. Two days later I noticed the lights dimmed when I used the power windows. Also, the temperature gauge dropped while driving. I took it back to the car lot; they checked it and said that it was nothing to worry about and that these cars are known for gauge malfunctions. The next day I lowered the passenger window and now it won’t go back up. Do you think the car might have an electrical problem? If so, how to I handle this situation with the car lot? I spent all my money on the car and can’t afford to repair it. And I don’t expect to, since I just bought it!

Sally from Walla Walla, WA

Sally,

I would run a Carfax report on the car to see if it’s a flood victim. Thousands of cars came out of the Gulf Coast floods as rebuilt flood victims and many end up with electrical problems. Sounds like this could be the case. For the record, these cars are not noted for gauge problems. Just check www.nhtsa.gov and you will see for yourself. After you run a Carfax report, approach the car let owner in a non-accusatory manner and try to come to a solution. Either they can replace the car if you find out it is a flood victim, or they can repair it free of charge if nothing comes up in the report. Good luck.
Tom

I replaced the battery in my 2002 Saturn L300 in September 2007. I replaced it again in April 2008 and again last month! The AAA technician told me that something is draining the battery.  He told me that I would need another one within six months if I don’t find and repair the problem. I had the alternator checked and it’s okay. What else could cause a drain on the battery?

Barbara from Reno, NV

Barbara,
Find a shop that specializes in electrical repairs and have them perform a parasitic electrical draw test. The tech will hook up a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to the battery and monitors voltage (while eliminating one circuit at a time) until he find the source of the draw. Draws can happen from a faulty electrical component, shorted switch, or grounded hot wire. Repairs of this nature are charged on a time and material basis. Once again, find a shop that specializes in this type of repair. Experienced techs know exactly to find these gremlins. Success to you.
Tom

I own a GMC pickup 1500 series that won’t start in cold damp weather. When it’s dry outside the truck runs fine; it only happens when it’s rainy. Any suggestions?

Ed from Buffalo, NY

Ed,
Repairs of this nature are difficult because you have to replicate the condition. Try spraying down the engine compartment with water, and then try to track down the cause. Electrical maladies of this nature are usually tracked to a poor electrical connection in the ignition system or bad sparkplug wires. Try to follow this procedure in the dark. That way, if the wires are leaking voltage, it will show up as a light show from the arching sparkplug wires. Good luck.

Tom

I own a ‘98 Lexus LS 400 with 190,000 miles. For the last year, I have spent $1,500 on the front end.  First I got the struts changed, then the ball joint and the arm, and then the bushings that are on the top of the struts. When the car goes over a bump at 20mph or over a dip at 55 mph, the front end makes a clicking sound. At the lower speeds (depending on which way I am turning) only one side or the other clicks. However, on the freeway going 55mph both right and left sides click at the same time. My theory is that the replacement struts are too weak (Monroe struts) for this car. The mechanic who replaced the struts with a lifetime warranty doesn’t want to replace the carriage springs.

Dhaval from San Jose, CA

Dhaval,
Have the engine mounts and cradle bolts checked. It sounds like the noise occurs when the powertrain shifts. An engine mount or cradle mount could cause this condition. If all checks out, have a set of “Chassis Ears” installed on the body at the location where you think the noise is emanating. They are a set of small microphones that are attached to a set of headphones. They allow the tech to listen to the noise while driving the car. “Chassis Ears” are very helpful in tracking down tough noises. Best to you.

Tom

I own a ‘93 Toyota Camry and the air conditioning is on the fritz.  My mechanic told me that it would cost around $2,500 to repair it. I am a 70-year-old woman who seems to get ripped off every time I need car repair work. Does this figure seem about right? Thank you for your help.

Nan from Port Ritchie, FL

Nan,

Get a second opinion. I have seen A/C repair run that high, but you didn’t tell me what they are doing for that money. Compressor replacement? Condenser replacement? Dryer? Evaporator core? Retro fit? There are many aspects to air conditioning repair, so get a second opinion from a high quality shop. If you’re not sure where to find a shop, call AAA and ask for one that specializes in HVAC repairs in your area.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site:  www.americascarshow.com

There are ways you can talk to your mechanic so that you both understand what will happen if your vehicle is in for repair.

First, your mechanic is a person too; don’t automatically assume they are trying to rip you off. More than not, there are honest and reliable repair shops and the bad ones have spoiled it for the good ones.

• Ask you mechanic if they are ASE (Automotive Service Excellence) certified. If they are, that means they passed rigorous testing to obtain that certification. With an ASE tech, you can feel pretty safe that they know what they are doing. Warranty Direct has a list of approved car repair shops you can refer.

• Before you go to the shop, make a list of everything you want checked out or problems and noises the vehicle might be making. A list is the best tool a mechanic can have. No mechanic is a crystal ball reader so you need to tell them what is happening.

• Go for a test drive before and after repairs. This is so important and so many customers don’t request it. I know one fellow who had his car in a whopping ten times for a noise he kept hearing and the mechanic could find nothing. Once a test drive was suggested by the mechanic to check for the noise, they found it was the automatic door locks that were locking after the fellow reached the required 17 miles per hour! So you can see how important your vehicle repairs can be if you both take the time for that all important test drive.

• Ask questions of your mechanic on things you should be looking for, how often different services should be performed, and how often your tires should be rotated or replaced. These services can vary depending upon the type of climate you live in so it’s best to ask an expert.

• Try and be as specific as you can when it comes to noises. Does it squeal? If so, say it squeals, don’t try and imitate the noise. If you car shimmies when you drive it, tell the mechanic this. Be specific when you are talking about what is happening when you drive.

• Ask for an estimate of what repairs might cost. If you think it’s too high, try another repair shop. If you think it’s fair, once the repairs are complete, ask the mechanic to give you a detailed explanation of what they replaced or repaired and how long the repairs or replacements should last and if the parts or any part of the labor is guaranteed.

• If you are in for a lube-oil-filter, make sure your mechanic tells you when your next oil change is due. While the rule is every 3,000 miles, some people simply ignore this rule and good mechanics will put a sticker inside your window that you can compare to your odometer.

When it’s time to visit the repair shop, don’t automatically think that mechanics are there to rip you off. Often the type of vehicle you buy can be costly to repair because of parts and recommended labor times it takes to get to the component that needs fixed. That’s not the mechanic’s fault—that’s the way the vehicle was designed.

Keep an open line of communication with your mechanic and if they are good, refer them to other people. A good reference can go a long way in the auto repair industry.

There are some that are considered the top ten car problems, however, and to ensure you are getting top performance from your vehicle, here is a list of our top ten.

Remember, preventative maintenance for all of these components is a good way to ensure they won’t fail.

1. Brake Systems – Brakes need to be replaced from normal wear and tear. If your brakes squeak or don’t feel quite right to you, it may be time to have a repair shop take a look at the entire braking system including your brake pads. Often, you’ll only need to replace the pads.

2. Lube-Oil-Filter – This is a no-brainer really folks! Most manufacturers recommend that your vehicle should receive a lube-oil-filter every 3,000 miles. Failing to do so can harm your car more than you know so keep this maintenance timely—don’t burn up the engine because your oil is low!

3. Cooling and Heating Systems – Each spring and fall, you should take your vehicle into your repair facility to have a check up for any problems. Most repair facilities will offer discounts at this time of the year to ensure these components, including your radiator are performing well.

4. Ignition and Electrical Controls – These are also items that can wear out over time and if not attended to can lead to more expensive repairs. An ignition switch may fail or the electric controls that make other parts work should be checked regularly for any damage or corrosion.

5. Steering and Suspension – You can probably tell if your steering is going—and all it might need is some power steering fluid. Your suspension is also key to driving safe, so these two items are important to have checked out.

6. Carburetor and Fuel System – If you find you are getting lower gas mileage on your vehicle; it may be due to carburetor or fuel system problems. Make sure you get these checked out on a regular basis.

7. Electrical – The electrical components of your vehicle are vast. They run all through your vehicle and interact with your vehicle’s computer system. When getting these checked out, make sure the repair facility has a good electrical line technician.

8. Transmission/Clutch/Rear Axle – You can’t go anywhere without your transmission, your clutch can be burned out if not checked, and your rear axle keeps you safe on the road. All of these should be examined for any repairs needed or to ensure they are working fine.

9. Air-Conditioning – There are certain fluids you need for your air-conditioning system to keep on working, especially in those hot months. Other components of the air-conditioning systems, including hoses, should also be checked for performance levels.

10. Exhaust System – If you have a big trail of black smoke following behind your vehicle as your drive, your exhaust system needs to be looked at. Beyond making your vehicle perform well, a bad exhaust system can pollute the air.

The importance of upkeep on these items is many. First, if you have any type of warranty on your car, whether it’s the manufacturer warranty, an extended auto warranty, or a dealer or repair shop warranty, if you aren’t completing the necessary maintenance on your vehicle—you could be denied warranty repairs.

Completing regularly scheduled vehicle check-ups is also important to ensure you will get the best performance out of your vehicle and that it will last. Keep these in mind when it’s time for your vehicle check up. Look for repair shops that offer what they call 10 or 15 point inspections that will include all of these components—most have these regularly at a discounted price.

So I asked my buddy neighbor about it. “Hey,” I said, “your wife’s car really has a brake squeaking problem.” “Really?” is all he says. Next, I try for the wife. “Hey hon,” I try, “your brakes really squeak.” I did not get the reaction I expected.

She threw her hands in the air yelling, “Oh no, what should I do, are my brakes going to quit working? Will I die on the highway?” After I calmed her down, I told her a little about brakes and why they squeak. Then I thought, maybe this experience could help some of you, so I decided to write about it.

Why the Squeaking?

Most of the time, our brakes squeak due wear and tear on the brake pads. This can be caused by excessive wear and tear and people like my neighbor’s wife, who SLAM their brakes over and over again—and every time they stop. It can also depend on the type of brake pads you have—ones that are made from carbon metallic materials can cause squeaks faster than others.

Take a trip to your mechanic to see if you need to replace one or all of your brake pads—if it’s the brake pad. You should also prepare for these types of wear and tear failures with an extended warranty.

Another reason the brakes can squeak can be related to calipers, especially loose calipers, incorrect brake pads, glazed rotors or warped rotors. Your mechanic can do a quick inspection of these components and let you know if any of these items need to be repaired or replaced.

I really didn’t want to tell my neighbor’s wife this one, but I did. I told her if her brakes squeak and she hears a sort of clunky noise, it could mean there is a big problem in the entire braking system, which could result in total brake failure. Back to the hysterics we went, much as I thought.

After I calmed her down a second time, I tried a better approach. I told her it could just be the brake pads and the make and model of them and that they may be prone to squeaking. I told her that a good mechanic could put brake pad vibration damper pads on to stop the squeaking.

Of course by now, I was sort of having fun tormenting her, so I told her it could be a drum brake squeak. This, I explained, was where there is poor contact between the brake shoes and the drum. If this was the problem, a mechanic could fix this too.

I then realized, since I’m no technician that I was running out of reasons why her brakes were squeaking but felt confident that I had given her a pretty good list of reasons. It’s been a week now and I still don’t need an alarm clock. She’s still making those four-point turns to get on her way each day and well, she told my wife, her husband told her I was an idiot and it wasn’t nice to scare her that way. I hope they move soon.

After all, the cost of obtaining a new or pre-owned vehicle is a huge investment.

The fact that the average vehicle is nine years with one owner is amazing, but part of that fact is due to the decline in our economy all around.

What you need to do is look at your vehicle situation, the repairs it needs, how much it’s worth, and what sort of long-term reputation it has.

Consumer’s Digest (you can read them for free at any public library) has lists of every single manufacturer’s make and model and what their repair history is. If you find you are spending quite the bucks on repairs and your car is on the list—maybe it’s time for a new one.

Good Old Betsy Is Breaking Down

So how do you determine what to do? First, how much is your car worth? You can get a wholesale and retail value on any vehicle at Kelly Blue Book.

Say your vehicle is an older model and its value is around $5,000. If the repairs you are going to need are anywhere from half of the value or more than the value of the vehicle, you might want to seek out a new or pre-owned option.

Even if you feel that the vehicle has performed well for you, in the long run, you need to decide that, if you spend $2500 to put in a new transmission, you then need to commit to keeping that vehicle and any future repairs that might come from normal good old wear and tear.

On the other hand, some people feel safer that a repair bill is much more affordable than a monthly vehicle payment—you have to look at your lifestyle and be honest about what you can afford to do.

Is the Cost of Repairs Too High?

That, my friend, depends. A plumber friend of mine told me he was working on an older home and once he fixed some of the older pipes and components in the home, others were breaking down just by his attempt to get to the problem.

Surprisingly, people are more willing to shell out big bucks for home repairs or appliance repairs than they are on auto repairs. In my heartfelt opinion, some of the reason for this is because people don’t trust repair facilities or technicians.

While some places will try and rip you off, a good repair shop won’t and can actually give you an estimate in through the mechanics eyes on how much longer your car will run. Take heed of that advice before you decide what to do.

New Car Costs

The price of new vehicles has risen dramatically over the past ten years because of consumer demand on what they want the vehicles to do and what they want in them. Options, options, and more options! A new vehicle, with all the options, can cost you twice the price of purchasing a certified pre-owned vehicle.

When looking at vehicle costs, limit your options. Do you really need two DVD systems in it? Start with the base model price and only add the options you really need. All manufacturers’ offer this “build-a-car” option on their website—so do some dealerships.

Pre-Owned Certified Vehicles

A pre-owned certified vehicle, (most of them are bought by dealerships at auction), are more than not former rental vehicles. If a pre-owned is your choice, check out Consumer’s Digest again and look at what the model year and make is going for. Remember to compare apples to apples. Don’t price a used SUV against a used truck for example.

Another tip, if you do decide to buy new, a dealer will only give you the wholesale price for your trade-in vehicle, so see if you can sell it on your own first and use that money as a down payment.

Be Smart When You Buy a Warranty

Finally, when you buy a car from a dealership, both a new or pre-owned car will come with some sort of warranty, whether it’s the manufacturer warranty, aftermarket used car warranty, or dealer warranty. So find out exactly what that warranty will cover if you need repairs. And be sure to contact Warranty Direct for a money-saving quote before you buy a warranty from the dealership!

Making a Decision

Ultimately, it’s you that has to make the decision on whether to replace Good Old Betsy, so be wise and commit to some research on purchasing a new or pre-owned vehicle.

If your car will give you a good amount of performance years by repairing it, then do that. Or, if the repairs don’t equal the value of your car, perhaps it’s time to buy new. Remember to weigh the options of a repair bill and a monthly car payment.

And, if you find you must buy a new or certified pre-owned vehicle, wait for manufacturer high-rebate months—typically in August and September as they want those old model years out of their showroom—dealers will often add to these saving—they need to push their inventory too.

Be an informed customer, do some research, and look at your lifestyle before you invest in costly repairs or a new vehicle.

My mother lives in Phoenix and this active 82-year old takes her PT Cruiser everywhere. When she called me last week to tell me her air-conditioning had gone out and two different repair shops indicated they had found many things wrong with the car, well, to be honest, she was pretty mad—or what she calls it, “darn-pooped.”

Because she had pretty good luck with this 2007 model, this was her first experience with a major repair on it and I told her that there were things to look for before your choose your repair shop. Since I live in New Mexico and my husband’s dealership sold her the car, of course I felt bad.

The next morning, I hurried off to our car dealership to design and hold a seminar for our small town, especially for non-technician-like people, on what to look for in a repair facility. That’s how important it is because your vehicle is what takes you everywhere in life—I felt it time people knew they had choices.

Franchised Car Dealerships

No matter what manufacturer make you drive, any of the company’s franchised dealerships can repair your vehicle. It’s best to utilize franchised dealerships for your warranty work, recalls you might receive, and until your manufacturer’s automobile warranty expires. Read you manufacturer’s warranty and if you don’t understand what it covers, take a trek to your closest dealership and ask. Or call the manufacturer directly and ask—you can find their customer service number in your owner’s manual.

If you choose a franchised dealership for non-warranty repairs, to ensure reliable and fair cost repairs, make sure they have ASE Technicians (technicians who must past stringent tests), a Master Tech that understands all components of a vehicle, belong to the Better Business Bureau, and will give you a good explanation and firm quote on what it will cost to repair your vehicle. If you aren’t comfortable with the Service Writer assigned to your repairs—talk to the Service Manager. If you’re still not happy, ask to talk to the General Manager or the Dealer. In our shop, my husband’s door is always open to our customers and they know it—that’s how he built his dealership’s reputation.

Independent Car Repair Shops and National Chain Shops

These shops are formed usually by excellent master technicians who want to venture into the world of vehicle repair on their own and be business owners. Good ones will tell you to go to a manufacturer approved facility for your warrant and recall work. But don’t shoot the messenger here, they may not know your problem is still covered under warranty—that’s why it’s important to understand your original warranty.

To choose a good car repair shop, see what sort of recommendations from organizations they have. Are the endorsed by the AAA? To be an AAA certified repair facility, the repair shop must go through in investigation by AAA, and pass it, before they are issued a recommendation or certification. Ask if they have ASE certified techs. ASE techs work everywhere, not just at franchised dealership—so do master techs.

Ask to see the shop and check out if it’s well organized and clean. Is it a busy shop? If it is and there seems to be a lot of activity and at an organized pace—it’s probably a good shop. Ask if their repairs are guaranteed and for how long? Remember, a car repair shop may have a labor guarantee (if something’s wrong that is the technicians fault), and a parts guarantee (if one of the parts they used failed). A good one will have both.

If You Still Aren’t Sure

I know with myself, if my husband didn’t own a dealership, I would be lost choosing a good repair facility. I like to tell people, I only know where the key goes in and where the gas goes in—beyond that, I’m lost.

Warranty Direct can help you make a good choice for your repairs. This extended car warranty company has been around a whopping 28 years and they know which car repair shops have a commitment to quality repair and customer service. They have a list of vehicle repair shops they trust. Beyond that, if you like the shop where you take your vehicle, and they aren’t on Warranty Direct’s recommended repair facility list—tell the owner to contact Warranty Direct to get on the list.

Peace of mind and knowing that you will receive quality repairs that fit the cost you’re paying is gold in the auto repair industry—and they know it too. If a shop you’re looking at doesn’t seem all that concerned about you or your repairs—skip them, it’s not worth the fight later.

Warning Signs

What exactly does your car feel like when it is acting up? How can you tell if it’s going bad? And just what happens if you avoid fixing your transmission?

Here are a few things to keep your eye on to make sure you stay safe.

The transmission is one of the most expensive parts of a vehicle to repair. It is also easy to ruin if you are not careful. Watching the transmission fluid level is one of the easiest ways to know how your transmission is doing.

When checking the automatic transmission fluid, keep the car idling, remove the dipstick and wipe it clean. Get a fresh sample, and compare the colors. Clean fluid should be bright. The darker it is, the more it needs to be attended to. If transmission fluid is dark in a vehicle you are considering purchasing, steer clear. Transmission fluid should never smell burned.

Testing Your Transmission

In order to test the transmission’s delayed engagement, you want to check and see if it shifts easily. If your vehicle does not feel like it wants to creep forward almost immediately upon switching to “D” there may be a problem. This should happen without any strong jerks or clunks. When going into “N” it should smoothly disengage.

When driving your vehicle, being aware of some of the things that might affect your transmission problems will go a long way in helping you know if you have damaged it. Towing can stress a transmission and make it go bad quicker than regular driving, as well as running hot. This includes stop and go traffic, hilly or mountainous driving, and hot water. Make sure to check your transmission fluid after you drive in any of these conditions.

Preventing Problems

Prevention is the best way to take care of your transmission. While some transmission problems can be fixed with a simple repair such as a filter change, more often than not this is not the case. Transmission repair can go up and over $2000 for repairs. Your car obviously cannot drive if it can’t change gears, so if this problem creeps up on you, you must be prepared to repair.

Paying for Transmission Repair

Car repair can quickly eat away at savings, especially if you have a major repair issue such as transmission problems. One way to avoid the huge expense is by having an extended car warranty. Services such as Warranty Direct offer extended warranties that will pay for these types of engine issues. The cost of a transmission repair alone will pay for the policy. If you want to be covered for such emergencies, contact Warranty Direct for more information on extended warranty coverage for your vehicle.

Lucky for you, I have educated myself and now I am ready to share with you my newfound knowledge. Now prepare yourself for the introduction of CV joints, not found in your body but your cars.

About CV Joints

Constant Velocity Joints or CV joints attached to each end of a drive shaft. These joints are needed to transfer the torque at a constant speed for steered wheels as well as to accommodate up and down motions of the suspension.

CV joints are found in all front-wheel drive cars and trucks. The parts are packed with grease and protected by a rubber or plastic boot.

No Maintenance Needed

The good news is that CV joints don’t typically require any maintenance and are expected to last a very long time, provided that the protective boot avoids any damage. However, if the boot does get damaged and you continue driving with it broken, not only will the CV joints need to be replaced, but so will the entire wheel drive shaft.

In the worst case, the CV joint could disjoin, causing the vehicle to stop running all together. A clicking noise when turning is a good indicator that the CV joint is experiencing problems.

Car Repair Help

Check out these sites for Do-It-Yourself car repairs if you have the confidence to tackle the CV joints: AlldataDIY.com and eAutoRepair.com.

It would also be smart for you to purchase an extended car warranty because knowledge is not completely bullet proof.