Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 GMC Envoy with 54,000 miles. It has a big engine and only gets 15.5 MPG. Although I love my Envoy, I did consider getting a new SUV (maybe a 4 cylinder) to get better mileage and performance, but I can’t afford to do that right now. I heard that there’s a special air filter that increases mileage and performance in vehicles. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what it is? Or is there is something else I could do? Thank you.
Joanie from West Seneca, NY

Joanie,
Yes, there is an air filter that will increase gas mileage and performance. It’s called K&N. Have one installed in your vehicle. In addition, make sure the tires are inflated properly and change the engine oil to synthetic oil. Finally, change the transmission fluid to synthetic, as well as all the differentials and transfer case. This action will also increase fuel mileage because you will reduce friction in these components by using synthetic lubricants. Best to you.
Tom

James,
The engine in your wagon is a 5.7-liter. No it is not a Corvette engine. The Kelly Blue Book value in “pristine condition” is $5,700. That’s all you can expect to get unless you find someone who can’t live without it and is willing to pay whatever you ask. Then you can click your ruby red slippers three times and say to yourself, “There’s no place like home” and then … wake up and smell the coffee. Come on, James! It’s a Buick station wagon!
Tom

Tina,
I have been buying gas from “the rez” for twenty years with not one problem. Over the years I have heard various comments about gasoline from the reservations. For example, it was rumored that the proprietors on the Indian Reservation were irresponsible and did not check their tanks, tank seals, or pump calibration. Also, they bought cheap gas that had water in it to resell to the public, and many other ridiculous accusations. Since my experience said otherwise, I decided to speak to JD, the manager of Seneca One Stop, in an attempt to understand why these rumors have reigned for years. He offered no reason as to why these rumors exist. However, he showed me the tests that Seneca One Stop goes through to ensure that their tanks are water free, do not leak, and pump gas accurately. He assured me that the quality of the gas they buy is the highest quality offered to the motoring public. He stated that, because of the negative perception, they were overly cautious to make sure they had no problems. I cannot speak for any other Indian fueling stations because I didn’t speak to anyone except Seneca One Stop. However I have purchased “Indian gas” from other proprietors and have never had a problem (unlike a few non-Indian stations I have experienced problems with and later confirmed water was indeed in the gas). Why the rumors? In our capitalistic system, businesses compete for our dollars, so sometimes they talk negatively about one another to get a let-up on their competition. That’s just the way of the world.
Tom

Brian,
I have never heard this urban legend. However, I can tell you that the head gasket on your Nissan engine is probably blown, and that your son probably overheated the engine and drove it in that state until the head gasket blew out. This explains why the engine coolant is disappearing. It is being drawn from the cooling system into the engine and out the tailpipe. Have a talk with you son. I am sure he will confirm this suspicion. Have the engine compression tested and a cylinder leak down test performed. These tests will identify which cylinder is leaking. Removal of the head and resurfacing is necessary before replacing the head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I saw your article on AOL Autos regarding pre-purchase inspections and it was very helpful. I am thinking of purchasing a ‘73 Chevy P-10 (Original Ice Cream Truck), but it is in rough condition and needs restoration. It has some rust on the axle, brake lines, and leaf springs. The engine and engine block are coated with what looks like years of caked-on oil deposits. It has an aluminum body that is in decent shape visibly. I did not notice any leaks on the ground near or around the vehicle. I want to restore the vehicle for various events, but I don’t have much money. The work would be done the Restoration Company located in New Jersey (the truck is in Connecticut). Do you know a company that could do the type of pre-purchase inspection that you wrote about? Can it be done on location? The restoration company has recommended a compression test. Can this be done on-site? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Paul from Cherry Hill, NJ

Paul,
Any competent repair facility can perform a pre-purchase inspection on this vehicle. All that’s required is a lift and some basic tools. Ideally, you also should have a compression test and a charging system analysis (so you can see if there are any electrically problems). I also recommend an oil pressure test to make sure there are no internal engine problems. The truck probably has point ignition, so a simple tach/dwell meter will reveal any glitches in the ignition system. Also, check the brakes, steering & suspension, and the brake / fuel lines for integrity as these tend to rust over the years. A trained tech, armed with a complete checklist, should be able to give you a good idea as to the vehicle’s integrity before you plunk down the cash-ola for the Good Humor Man’s former ride. Good luck to you.
Tom

Bobbi Ann,
What can I say? Your beloved “Heartbeat of America” has cardiac arrest. The engine has to be removed and either be replaced or rebuilt. I would replace it with a remanufactured engine from a company such as Jasper Engines, so that the new power plant will be just like a new one (and at less cost than rebuilding the old one). As for the tach racing up when you step on the gas, check the transmission fluid. If it’s low, top it off and see if that solves the problem. If the problem is solved then you have a leak that must be repaired. If the fluid is burnt and dark brown or black, the transmission probably needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Your Camaro has given you many years of reliable service, now it’s time to either refurbish it or put it out to pasture. Only you can make that decision. Best to you.
Tom

Rick,
Sounds like the car has a parasitic electrical occurring when the key is off. No, you should not have to turn everything off inside the vehicle when you exit. There is something draining the battery. Have the shop perform an electrical draw test to track down the cause of the drain. During this test, a DVOH (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) is hooked up to the battery. The tech will eliminate each circuit until the draw goes away, identifying the offending circuit. Then he/she will trace the circuit to find the cause of the draw. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
There is a low coolant warning on my ’99 Jeep Grand Cherokee that won’t go away even though I had the coolant serviced. Also, the carpet is wet and slimy on the front passenger floor. Any help would be appreciated.
Theresa from Palo Alto, CA

Theresa,
Have a cooling system pressure test performed on your Jeep. Specifically, have the service tech look for a leaking heater core. Hot water from the cooling system circulates through the heater core. This heat emanates from the core and is blown into the vehicle’s cabin by the fan (this is how the heater works). When the heater core springs a leak, water from the cooling system leaks into the vehicle’s cabin and coolant is lost, hence the cause of the low coolant warning light and the wet carpet. The fact that the water feels slippery tells me that it’s probably anti freeze. Prepare yourself for a hefty repair bill; heater core replacement is very labor intensive. Wish I had better news.
Tom

Daniel,
BMW is great when it comes to customer satisfaction, in this case, I’m sure BMW would help you. Your best bet is to contact the district zone rep for BMW and explain the situation to him/her. Show them your title of ownership and the recent bill of sale for the car and I’m sure they will make an exception to the rule in this case. Good luck!
Tom

Korinna,
The computer needs to be scanned for trouble codes. It has detected a problem with the engine when it’s wet outside and has set a code, turning the check engine light on. Once the computer has been scanned, the technician can perform a set of pinpoint tests to determine the defective part. My guess is that the tech will find multiple random misfires. The tech will probably mist down the engine compartment with a spray water bottle in an effort to duplicate the problem. You’ll probably find that the sparkplug wires need replacing. Best to you.
Tom

Clancy,
The squeak could be coming from the bushings in the control arms, dry ball joint/s, worn strut insulators, or bearings. Get the car up on a lift and have the front suspension checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Rich,
Ignition switch replacement is common on cars with some mileage, but to have so many switches malfunction in such a short period of time makes me wonder if there is another issue affecting the system. The body control module, main computer, the instrument cluster and their respective wiring are all involved in the starting system. It’s going to take some in-depth diagnostics to track down this little bugger! Find a good electrical diagnostician. It will probably serve you well to arrange to leave the car at the shop so they can experience the problem first hand when it occurs.
Tom

Taylor,
I understand your feelings about the truck. My father gave me my first car too and that car meant a lot to me (until I found a Camaro I wanted bad enough, then I traded the Pontiac in). Here’s what you should do. First off, hook a mechanical gauge to an oil gallery in the engine and run it to verify actual oil pressure. If it’s okay, then the vehicle probably has a problem with the oil pressure-sending unit (which is quite common on older vehicles), the wiring to it, or the gauge in the dash. If the oil pressure is found to be low, then the oil pan has to come down and the lower end inspected for worn bearings, oil pump, or the likes. In this case, you might want to employ the service of a professional tech to evaluate the engine before repairing or replacing it. Or, take out a book on engine overhaul and go to it, if you have the mechanical aptitude or inclination. I rebuilt my first engine at 16 years of age, so you’re ready! Call the show and let me know how it worked out. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

You can also download the file by clicking here: Tom Torbjornsen Explains How To Purchase A Used Car Warranty

To hear the entire show visit America’s Car Show’s Sirius/XM Radio Archives and select the July 4th’s show.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘02 Toyota Highlander 4 cylinder, 62,000 miles. My local shop sent me a notice to have the EFI throttle body serviced. What is an EFI throttle body and how often does it need service? The vehicle is running fine, so I wonder if this service is really necessary at this time?
Bert from San Dimas, MX

Bert,
EFI stands for Electronic Fuel Injection and Throttle Body is the term for a component in the injection system where air is taken into the engine. Fuel injection systems require cleaning at regular intervals, every 35 – 40 thousand miles. This process is necessary because varnish deposits, dirt, and carbon build up on the end of the injector nozzles, inside fuel rails, inside intake plenums, on the tops of the pistons, and inside the cylinder heads and valves. The cleaning process involves injecting an industrial grade carbon cleaner into the system, and then letting it sit to liquefy any carbon buildup in the engine. A professional cleaning of the injection system and upper regions of the engine usually results in increased performance and better fuel mileage.
Tom

Ruthann,
In regards to the spastic oil pressure reading, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge to confirm actual oil pressure. If it is low, the engine will have to be disassembled for proper inspection of the parts that relate to oil pressure. If the oil pressure is okay, then check for a bad sending unit or wiring to the unit (this is most likely the cause of the erratic readings). The popping sound could be a bad ball joint, control arm bushing shock, or some other suspension part. Get the truck up in the air for a suspension inspection. Success to you.
Tom

Bob,
I can’t answer why the knock appeared so suddenly unless I explored the engine. The cause could be a bad oil pump, excessive sludge buildup preventing oil flow to bearings, bad engine oil, as well as a host of other reasons. Pistons are connected to the crankshaft via a connecting rod. The rod bolts to the crank using a split metal cap. Bearing inserts are placed on the cap and this surface is what rides in the crankshaft journal. Oil is pumped into the bearing saddle and acts as a cushion between the crank journal and the bearing surface. The reason for the knock? The bearing inserts at the end of the connecting rod have worn out, causing a hammering (or knocking) effect when the piston travels up and down. Your mechanic’s assessment of replacement or rebuilding is probably accurate. Before sentencing your engine to death in the bone yard, drop the oil pan and inspect the crankshaft to evaluate the extent of the damage. I wish you success.
Tom

Barb,
If you think the shop will not like the fact that you want to see the parts that need replacing then you are going to the wrong shop (and your husband has the wrong attitude). As a consumer you are entitled to see why the work needs to be done. I suggest you find a dependable repair shop if this tire shop will be offended because you want to see what needs repairing or replacing. Call your local Triple A, ask for an Approved Repair Center in your area, and get a second opinion. As for the ‘lit’ ABS light, the brake computer has to be scanned for codes and the malady repaired (perhaps a speed sensor, broken wiring, or hub assembly). In regards to the transmission question, if the fluid in your trans were burnt or very brown, then yes, I would say to leave it alone because the trans has probably been overheated. When a trans overheats it cooks the clutches and rubber seals. When you replace the fluid on a ‘cooked’ unit, the clutches come unglued from their backing and the unit fails. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I was told that there is no advantage to using synthetic engine oil over conventional oil. I do not believe this is true. Also, I was told that conventional oil used with a stabilizer would accomplish the same thing as synthetic oil. Is this true? Thanks.
Nick from Bemus Pt, NY

Nick,
Whoever told you that synthetic motor oil has no advantages compared to conventional oil doesn’t know what he is talking about. Synthetic oil is more resistant to viscosity breakdown (loss of ability to flow and thus lubricate) from heat, friction, and chemical contamination (the hostile environment of an operating internal combustion engine). Synthetic oil was originally developed for use in aircraft to address the extreme operating environment of the jet engines. On the intake side, aircraft jet engines operate at very cold temperatures because of the rush of air, ambient temperatures, and venturi effect. On the exhaust side, the aircraft jet engine is very hot. Conventional oils simply did not stand up well under these conditions, so engineers designed a syntheticly fortified lubricating oil to avoid the problems associated with conventional petroleum lubricants. The new formula worked well, so AMSOIL founder and president Al Amatuzio (at the time, a jet fighter pilot in our armed forces) set out to develop synthetic motor oil suitable for automotive applications. The first synthetic engine oil for cars entered the market in 1972. Today’s synthetic oils flow better than petroleum oil in cold temperatures, providing internal protection during winter start up. Obviously, the quality of synthetic oil varies. In my opinion, based on the research I have seen, AMSOIL and Mobile One are number one and number two respectively. Finally, adding a stabilizer to conventional oil does not provide the same advantages as synthetic oils.
Tom

Steve,
The wiper arm has to be replaced. The tension spring (located inside the arm) keeps the wiper blade snug against the windshield glass. When the spring wears out, the wiper arm lifts off the glass. Replace the arm and problem solved!
Tom

Ed,
Small convex mirrors are a good addition to the driver’s side to eliminate blind spots. The passenger’s side mirror is already of the convex design, that’s why it says “Objects May Be Closer Than They Appear.” As for why carmakers don’t add convex mirrors on the driver’s side? Bottom line, cost. End of story.
Tom

Lois,
I checked my database for brake recalls on these vehicles and came up with nothing. Call your local dealer and give them your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to run in their database to make sure there’s no action from Chrysler on this condition. If not, perhaps you ran the brake shoes too long on the car, resulting in failure? Or, if they were replaced at one time or another, perhaps the shop used inferior shoes, causing the glue to crystallize that could result in shoe failure. It’s impossible to tell without seeing the old parts and the service history of the vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Lloyd,
Check for a dislodged vacuum line, crossed wire, or an inadvertently grounded sparkplug electrode either from dirt in the air gap or from the electrode crushed down to the ground position. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of these areas. Best to you.
Tom

Sheila,
First, check the coolant level. It sounds like the coolant is low and an air bubble is circulating through the system. If it is low, then check for a coolant leak. If the level is good, then there could be a vacuum leak causing the air blend door to open and close on engine demand. Check the vacuum lines that feed the heater system. There’s a vacuum chamber in the engine compartment that stores vacuum for the heater system to draw on when needed. That chamber is usually made of plastic and it can crack, resulting in erratic heater blend door operation. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of there areas. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I purchased a used 2007 Dodge Caravan SXT – V6 with 21,000 miles. It gets 19 MPG in the city and only 20 MPG in the country. What can I do to get better mileage? I follow your advice for maintenance and welcome your advice. Thanks.
Ruth from Hamburg, NY

Ruth,
Fuel mileage is subjective to the driving environment, how the vehicle is driven, how it is maintained, and what kind of work it performs. First, make sure the performance system is up to snuff (sparkplugs & wires, air and fuel filter, breather element, and anything else related to the performance system). If these items are not replaced at the proper intervals, fuel mileage will suffer. Based on the low mileage of this vehicle, the plugs could be “carboned up” from lack of use. Have them cleaned and re-gapped. What else can you do to increase gas mileage? Inflate the tires to max inflation rate so they offer less rolling resistance; replace the air filter with a high flow filter like a K&N; and replace the engine oil, transmission fluid, and differential lubricants with synthetic lubricants. All this coupled with maintaining the performance system should net you a few more miles per gallon. Best to you.
Tom

Lee,
If what you outlined here is accurate, then I agree with you. It is entirely too much oil consumption for this engine. Excessive oil consumption is the result of poor piston ring sealing, bad valve guide seals, or sloppy valve guides. If the PCV system were clogged with sludge, then the crankcase would be pressurized. In this case, the oil would be pushed up into the breather system and into the air intake to be burned. Call John Domagala at the NFADA (Niagara Frontier Dealer’s Assoc). He is the director of AUTOCAP (Automotive Consumer Action Program) and John will get the Chrysler Zone Rep involved. Hopefully you will get some satisfaction. John’s number is 716-631-8510. Tell him I told you to call. Success to you.
Tom

Amy,
Let’s deal with one thing at a time. (1) The sloppy ignition key issue is probably due to a worn lock cylinder in the steering column. This requires replacement of the lock/key (removal of the steering wheel and air bag are part of this procedure to access the necessary parts). (2) The wipers have to be checked for a bad internal motor ground or (if so equipped) the wiper delay could be bad (3) The whirring sound by the belt could be a bad serpentine idler, an alternator or power steering pulley, or worn bearings in the water pump shaft. Get it into a shop that can address your concerns … one at a time. Good luck.
Tom

Lillie,
You give me no year, make, or model so my answer will be in general. The first thing that comes to mind is the thermostat. When it goes bad it can either stick closed (causing overheating) or open. If stuck open, the engine doesn’t get hot and thus the heater doesn’t get warm. Also, heater malfunction can also be caused by a problem with a duct door (these doors direct the heated air into the vehicle’s cabin). Finally, in the case of climate-controlled systems, a faulty electronic control module can cause heater malfunction. Hope this helps.
Tom

Randy,
Check the inner axle shaft CV joints. Heavy vibration occurs when they get worn and loose, especially under acceleration. Other common causes of front-end vibration include: loose/worn struts and/or strut bearing plates, loose ball joints, tie rod ends, rack mounts, or internally worn rack. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
There is a scrubbing noise coming from the left rear of my Toyota Camry LE. I had it checked out but they can’t find anything wrong. Please help! It sounds like some part is rubbing against another part. When I drive into my driveway it gets louder. When I am driving down the road, it is not as loud but I can still hear it.
Mary from Philadelphia, PA

Mary,
You didn’t tell me the year of your Camry LE so I could only guess that it is an ’02 or older, because that was the last year Camry was made with an LE trim. Also, that car came with either 4 wheel disc brakes or disc/drum combination. In either case I would check the emergency brake cable to see if it’s frozen. A frozen cable will keep the rear brake/s applied. I would also check the backing plates on the rear, as both types of systems have backing plates that could bend and rub against the disc or drum. Finally, I would check for a bad rear suspension spring or strut that could be causing the body to come down on the tire/s when going over a curb or bump. That’s the best info I can give you because I don’t know the year of your car. Success to you.
Tom

Rich,
According to my ALLDATA database, the door lock mechanism is roughly $135. As for labor, it’s only an hour for each door. I would get a breakdown of the repair, specifically the labor. Where do they justify the additional $320? If they stand firm on the estimate given, then they are charging way too much for the lock replacement and I would consult a AAA Approved Auto Repair Facility that specializes in foreign car repairs. You can find one through your local AAA club.
Tom

Cookie,
Your description of Emeril was superb! Have the struts and strut mounts checked. It sounds like they are worn out. I would also check the sway bar bushings because, when they wear out, the sway bar can bang on the underside of the car, especially when going over bumps. As for a shop you can trust, consult your local AAA Club for a AAA Approved Repair Facility in your area. Success to you.
Tom

Kathleen,
The following TSB was issued from Ford on this very issue for your car:
2004 Mercury Sable V6-3.0L A/C – Erratic / Inoperative Blower Motor
TSB 04-15-3 08/09/04
WATER IN THE BLOWER CASE – BLOWER MOTOR
AND/OR RESISTOR FAILURE – VEHICLES BUILT
5/1/2001 TO 12/15/2003
FORD:
2001-2004 Taurus
MERCURY:
2001-2004 Sable ISSUE:
Some vehicles built between 5/1/2001 and 12/15/2003 may exhibit water in the blower case or on the passenger side floor, an inoperative climate control blower motor, a motor that operates on high speed only, and/or a blower motor resistor failure.
ACTION Inspect and seal cowl area and install Rain-Hat Extension Seal. Inspect and replace blower motor and/or blower motor resistor if there is evidence of water/corrosion.
Take it to your local dealer to have this service performed and the rain hat installed to stop water from entering the blower motor case; this will stop your problem. Best to you.
Tom

Steven,
Given the labor intensive nature of this operation (6 hrs according to the book) plus the cost of the evaporator ($432) and the cost of new refrigerant and an oil charge, plus evacuation and reclaiming the system, I understand why it is so expensive. Short of doing it yourself, I doubt you will find a better price (much less anyone willing to embark on disassembling your dashboard to replace the evaporator). Try your local AAA club to find a AAA Qualified Repair Facility near you to give you another quote. And remember, cheaper is not necessarily better. The shop must have the equipment, tools, and know-how to perform such an operation… and for that you pay.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ’94 Mitsubishi 3000GT-SL with 121,000 miles. At about 95 – 100,000 miles it started burning oil (no leaks obvious) with blue smoke in the exhaust on startup. In the last couple of months the oil consumption is rapidly increasing. On “general principles” I replaced the PCV valve recently to no avail. On a bulletin board for these cars, there has been talk of valve oil seal problems. Could the seals get to the point where they fail completely and oil consumption take a sudden leap?
Spencer from Australia (Down Under)

Spencer,
Yes, seals could harden and break up, causing oil consumption to accelerate greatly as oil spills down the valve stems and into the combustion chambers to be burned. Pull a valve cover and inspect the valve seals. It’s time to delve deeper into engine diagnostics with cylinder leak-down and compression testing.
Good luck, mate!
Tom

Spencer asks a question that many vehicles experience, namely oil consumption at high mileage. What are the causes? What diagnostic tests should be performed?

Causes of oil consumption

Bad valve seals: The valves are located in the cylinder head above the combustion chamber. Oil is pumped at 50 to 80 psi of pressure into the top of the head, lubricating the valve-train. The valves have seals that stop the flow of oil down into the engine when the valve is open. If the seals fail, oil flows down into the combustion chamber and is burned.

Worn valve guides: The valves are guided by a small cylindrical chamber called a valve guide. These guides wear over time causing eccentricity (slop). The excess gap allows oil to flow down the valve stem and into the combustion chamber to be burned. You might be wondering why the valve seals don’t stop the oil. Because the gap is too large for the seal to work.

Pressurized crankcase due to clogged PCV or breather system: Your car’s engine is a giant pump, therefore it must breathe. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system does just this; it allows the engine to exhaust the excess crankcase pressure that builds up (a natural phenomenon of the internal combustion engine). These gases are captured and fed back into the engine to be burned. Carbon (a by-product of engines) can build up in the PCV system, clogging the breathing passages. This, in turn, pressurizes the oil pan and pushes oil up into the fuel delivery system, where it is fed into the engine and burned.

Blow-by from worn piston rings: The pistons in your car’s engine have seals around them in the form of rings. These rings have two functions: (1) They seal the combustion chamber so that the precious power produced from the firing of the cylinder is not lost. (2) They provide vital lubrication to the cylinder walls. When the rings wear out the pressure from combustion reverses down into the oil pan. Pressure in the oil pan forces oil into the valve covers, through the breather system, back into the fuel delivery system, and into the engine to be burned.

Tracking down the cause of oil consumption

PCV system: Remove the PCV valve with the engine running. There should be a strong vacuum pulling on the valve. If there is no vacuum, the system is clogged with sludge and carbon. It should be cleaned and the valve replaced.

Valve stem seals and guides: Remove the valve cover and shine a strong light on each valve stem. If the seals are gone, then further inspection is warranted. Pressurize the cylinder and remove the valve spring to closely inspect for a worn valve guide evidenced by broken-up valve stem seals).

If nothing is found after checking for a clogged PCV system and valve stem seals & guides, then run a cylinder leak-down test. In this test, each cylinder is charged with 120 lbs of compressed air and the engine is monitored to determine where the air is escaping from the cylinder. If air is escaping from the crankcase, then the piston rings are worn. You can also perform a compression test. Remove the spark plugs and test each cylinder individually for the total PSI of compression. If you find that one cylinder is low, then wet test it. To wet test the cylinder, remove the gauge, squirt oil into the cylinder, and then retest it. If the compression in that cylinder comes up, then that cylinder has worn piston rings. How do we know this? Because when oil was squirted into the cylinder, it filled the gap between the worn rings and cylinder wall, sealing the ring gap and thus increasing compression. In this is the case, consider rebuilding or replacing the engine.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘99 Chevy 1500 Suburban 4×4 with 102,000 miles. There is a whining sound coming from the rear when driving 55-65 mph. I had all the bearings replaced, and the ring & pinion gears show normal wear. Any suggestions?
Thanks,

Eddie from Miami

Eddie,
You failed to mention the rear pinion bearing. Have the lash and the up and down play checked for wear. Also, check the tire wear pattern on the rear tires. They could be cupped, which could also cause the whining.
Tom

Want a little cheese with that whine? (just a little bad humor here) On to Eddie’s question in detail.

What causes whining?
Whining can be caused by worn transmission or differential bearings or races (the surface the bearing rides on), a worn power steering or front transmission oil pump. A simple thorough inspection of the transmission, differential, and power steering system will reveal if there are any bad bearings.

Cupped tires can also cause whining. When tires are left unattended the balance goes out resulting in wheel tramp. In this condition, the heavy spot in the tire gains inertia as it spin causing the tire/wheel to bounce as it spins down the road. The tires develop a cupped tread wear pattern from this bouncing (or tramping). Ultimately it results in a whine. Sometimes rotating and rebalancing the tires will correct the whining problem over time.

Another cause of whining
Worn differential lubricant is another cause of whining. Some carmakers have come out with semi-synthetic gear lubricants that have a specific life and need to be changed according to schedule. If left in too long, they lose their lubricating properties and heat, friction, and whining ensue in the differential. Major gear damage will occur if left in too long.

Mechanically the truck is fine. You’ve rotated the tires, but still have the whine. Now what?
If you are sure the transmission, differential, and power steering are fine and you rotated the tires, it may be time to replace the tires if the noise is too much for you. Some tires have such an aggressive tread lug design that they simply cannot be quieted, so it may be time to buy a tire with a less aggressive tread. Light truck tires tend to be made of a stiffer, heavier rubber compound that lasts longer and is durable. However, the downside is that they are noisy and offer stiff ride characteristics. A less aggressive tread design in an all season or highway tire might be the ticket for you. But there are tradeoffs in making this move. Specifically, these types of tires don’t last as long as the heavy-duty truck tires, although they are much quieter and deliver a nicer ride. It is an individual’s decision. How much noise can you tolerate?

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Malibu LS. I recently had the front and rear rotors and pads replaced, as well as the rear calipers. About 750 miles later the brakes started squealing. The pads cost $50 each; the rotors were $46 each; the calipers were $79 each. I brought the car back to shop at once and they cleaned the brakes. However, they are still squealing. Any solutions?
Joe from Long Island

Joe,
Brake squeal is a common problem and the result of a high-pitched vibration of the pad/s. Either the pad anti-rattle clips are worn/broken or the pad insulators were not installed at the time of the brake job. Get the vehicle back to the shop and have these checked. Best to you.
Tom

Michael,
Yes, your driving pattern is a textbook case for using synthetic motor oil. When a vehicle sits without being driven much, acid and moisture accumulate in the crankcase, causing erosion of the main and rod bearings. Good synthetic motor oil guards against chemical and moisture contamination because of the chemically fortified base stock. I recommend either AMSOIL or Mobil One, (number one and two).
Tom

Don,
You will have to water-test the car’s body to find the leak. Get in the car with a light and have someone soak down the body with a water hose at the point where you think the water is entering the vehicle. Use the light to find where the water is coming in, and then seal the leak. It could be entering via a door, a window, or a windshield gasket. Success to you.
Tom

Susan,
Why would you take a vehicle with an obvious drivability/engine problem to a transmission specialist? That’s like going to a brain specialist for a broken arm (just wondering about your logic here). I can’t give you a specific direction to solve the stalling problem. However, I would suggest that you leave the vehicle with a shop that specializes in engine drivability for a few days so they can drive it with a scanner hooked up to it, and the tech can monitor what’s going on when the problem occurs. This is the best course of action given the erratic nature of your Durango’s malady.
Tom

Glenn,
First off, there was no such thing as a “T-Bucket Roadster” 90 years ago. The base vehicle that the T-Bucket was made from had to be something that was not modified (whether it was a pickup or some sort of coupe or sedan). I just want to get a clear understanding of what we’re looking at before proceeding forward with advice. That said, when buying any car (custom, modified or OEM) conduct a stem to stern inspection of the key systems (electrical, drivetrain, powertrain, suspension, brakes, undercarriage, etc). In addition, the inspection might include an engine compression test, electrical values of the charging/starting system, hydraulic test of the trans (if automatic), fluid samples of drivetrain components such as diffferential/s, transfer case, transaxle, and any gearboxes in the drivetrain. I might even go as far as an engine oil analysis to determine internal engine health before making an offer. Finally, if the vehicle is touted to be an original rare piece, do a numbers match analysis to make sure it is indeed original. Consider bringing a vehicle appraiser in before the sale to confirm that the car is what the seller claims it to be. Best to you.
Tom

Martha,
Have the drivetrain control module scanned for codes. It sounds like the lockup converter control solenoid is not disengaging the clutch in the converter when you shift gears. This would account for stalling when you change gears. A good transmission shop should be able to scan it for you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘97 Jeep Cherokee Sport with a 4.0L engine and 167,000 miles. The engine has recently developed a “pronounced knock” that is rather annoying and raises a concern about its dependability. This vehicle is quite solid for its age and mileage, and I would like to keep it going for as long as possible. Although the engine continues to run relatively well, it is becoming increasingly noisy despite using heavier viscosity oils. I don’t know if a serious breakdown is imminent, and I am concerned because I drive the “fast-moving” interstate roads on a daily basis. What should I do to keep this vehicle operating indefinitely? Should I rebuild the engine or replace it?
Sal from San Francisco, CA

Sal,
First off, if you continue driving it in a spirited fashion on the “fast moving interstate roads” on a daily basis in this condition, I assure you that catastrophic engine failure is imminent in short order. That said, major engine repair these days is a losing proposition. In years gone by, engine rebuilding was a viable option to replacement. However, with modern day manufacturing processes and great warranties, the price of replacement-remanufactured engines has come down to the point that engine rebuilding is becoming a lost art and is no longer cost effective. I would look into a remanufactured unit from Jasper Engines if the body is in good shape and the rest of the vehicle is in good working order. Success to you.
Tom

Scott,
There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) from Saturn on erratic shift patterns (bulletin # 01-T-09). It talks about bad connector pins in the shift control circuit. In addition, there is a TSB that has an in-depth diagnostic procedure for the same symptoms. Apparently there are problems with these transaxles. Fixes have run the gamut from replacing the valvebody to wiring harnesses, and reflashing of the drivetrain control module. I believe this one is over your head, Scott, unless you have the factory scanner, tools, equipment, and technical knowledge of the drivetrain systems to track down the cause of the erratic shift patterns. Better take it to the dealer to get it fixed. Good luck.
Tom

Eileen,
The headlight assembly on your car is one molded piece of plastic (called a composite). When the lens yellows, the whole unit has to be replaced. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Tom

Mr. Handy with Tools,
This job calls for 4.5 hours for a trained Ford factory technician to do the job, equipped with a lift and other special tools needed to do the job. My advice? Take it to a qualified tech. Although you are “Handy with Tools,” this replacement task is one for the experts. That is, if you want the car to run after the job is done. You might be able to replace an intake in ’68 model, but with today’s cars it’s no longer a basic operation. It requires scan tools, special factory tools, and the knowledge (re-learn the drivability system after the intake has been replaced). Sorry. “Handy with Tools” just don’t cut it any more.
Tom

Sally,
According to Kelly Blue Book, that car in Excellent Condition will bring $2,225; Good Condition: $1,925; and Fair Condition: $1600. Of course, the selling price depends on the exterior and interior condition. Also, pricing varies depending on where you are in the country and what the year, make, model is bringing at auction and local retailers. Check your local newspapers and see what similar vehicles are going for, then price accordingly. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I drive a 98′ Honda Civic with 40K miles (automatic transmission). Lately the transmission seems to be amiss. Sometimes the car seems to downshift or lurch slightly. I told my husband about it and he asked me if the “check engine light” comes on, and I told him no. He said not to worry about it. However, I have a feeling that he is just too lazy to check it out himself. Should I be concerned? Also, my mom changes the oil every 3,000 miles on her car. Is it okay if we change it every 5,000 miles instead? Thanks for your help.
Deb from Little Rock, AR

Deb,
There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Honda for this very condition on your transmission (bulletin # 00-012). Call your local Honda dealer and ask them what this TSB entails. As for the mileage recommendation, if you are using synthetic oil, then every 5000 miles is fine. If you are using conventional oil, then stick with every 3,000 miles. Good luck.
Tom

Jim,
Who told you this? The dealer? Your Uncle Charlie who used to work on cars back in the 60’s? Unless stated specifically in the warranty or owner’s manual, this is false. The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act of 1972 protects against this sort of thing. It states that the manufacturer carries the burden of proof of any failure whatsoever. They must prove that the installation of the aftermarket product caused the problem. If they can’t, then you are covered. Period. Get the facts straight before changing back. By the way, changing between synthetic and conventional oil does no harm to the engine. Success to you.
Tom

May,
The light is on because the drivetrain computer sees an anomaly in the system. Have the vehicle scanned for codes to identify the cause and repair it. The fact that the vehicle has a hard time rolling concerns me. It could be that the transfer case is locking up due to an electrical malady. Get it scanned and fixed before you do irreversible damage to the drivetrain. Best to you.
Tom

Mark,
Check the brake calipers to see if they are sticking. Also, check to see if there is a blocked rubber brake hose. Both of these conditions could cause the brakes to stay applied with your foot off the brake pedal, which would cause the rotors to heat up and warp. Rotor warpage causes run-out, resulting in pedal pulsation. Also check for worn inboard CV Joints, which could cause the pulsation as well.
Tom

Jean,
It sounds like there’s a problem with the gas tank vent valve, or the gas cap seal, or the evaporative emissions system. Go to the shop immediately after filling the vehicle when the light is on so that they can pull a code for diagnosis. Or you can schedule to leave the vehicle with the shop for a few days. Make sure the gas tank is low so they have to fill it. When the light comes on, they can scan for a code and track down the problem. Best to you.
Tom

Josh,
Check the emergency brake cable on the side that’s overheating. It sounds like the cable has seized, causing the brake to stay applied. Other conditions that cause brakes to hang up are worn return springs, loose anchor springs, and leaking wheel cylinders. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Jeep Liberty with 48,000 miles. This obviously is NOT a fuel-efficient vehicle. I have the oil changed regularly and tire pressures are maintained as well. This little ‘cutie’ maybe gets 13-15 MPG city driving …YIKES! Is there anything I can do to improve gas mileage now that it costs $70 to fill up? My daughter is using it for college and she has a 25-mile commute with little to no stops to reach the campus. Her friends refer to her as the “old lady driver,” so speeding doesn’t apply here. A side note: My Chrysler Pacific, which is rated poorly for fuel efficiency, has better mileage!
Thanks.
June from Boston, MA

June,
Two things come to mind. Install a high flow air filter like a K&N filter and install an economizer fuel chip. This device modifies the engine management program from the factory (fuel trim is leaned and ignition timing retarded, all resulting in increased fuel mileage). The only tradeoff is decreased engine performance, but you say that you daughter drives like an “old lade” so this shouldn’t be an issue. Finally, practice moderate driving habits: No jackrabbit starts, drive the speed limit, make sure tires are properly inflated, and keep the engine tuned. Best to you.
Tom

Josie,
The term “Readiness Monitor” on today’s cars refers to the self-check monitors in the car’s emissions and performance system. When a Readiness Monitors trips, it means that the system has failed a self-test and the emissions systems are not operating up to snuff. In states where an emissions test is performed, if a Readiness Monitor is tripped, it can fail the emissions portion of the state inspection. The Readiness Monitors can only be reset after the offending emissions system is repaired, the system is reset with a scan tool, and a drive cycle is performed.
Tom

Pepper,
The reason the throttle body gets gummed up with varnish is because fuel is injected into the air stream rushing through the throttle body above the throttle valve. The constant injection of fuel results in gumming up of the throttle valve shaft. Because of this, it’s recommended that the throttle body be cleaned on a regular basis (following suggested maintenance schedule). Best to you.
Tom

Mario,
Have the starter motor checked for excessive electrical draw while cranking. It sounds like the armature bearings are worn, which would cause this condition. When the armature bearings (or bushings) wear out, the armature drags in the field windings inside the starter motor. This would cause the slow dragging cranking speed you hear. A reputable starter rebuilder can confirm my suspicions. Success to you.
Tom

Joe,
Facing the front of the vehicle with the hood open, the radiator drain plug is located on the lower left hand side of the radiator at the bottom of the tank. It’s made of plastic. Make sure you don’t over-tighten it when you reinstall it. Also, make sure you clean the threads of any dirt or debris. Good luck.
Tom

Ron,
First of all, there are no additives that will offer you a “quick fix,” as you call it. Oil consumption is the result of either internal mechanical wear in the engine, or a stuck PCV valve or blocked oil return holes in the cylinder heads from sludge buildup. In either case the fix will involve delving into the problem, not pouring something into the crankcase. Get it into a shop capable of diagnosing oil consumption. Good luck.
Tom

Ron,
According to the Alldata labor and parts pricing guide, the cost for the timing belt is $65.95. Labor w/ A/C: 2.6 hours at the shop’s hourly labor rate. If you suspect the belt was incorrectly installed recently, why not go back to the shop and ask them to make it right? That way you don’t have to pay anything.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2003 KIA Spectra 1.6L. The timing belt broke recently while I was driving down the road. My Car User Manual says to change the belt at 90,000 km. I changed it earlier based on the recommendation by my KIA service department at 61,300km. When the timing belt broke, the mileage was at 111,000 km. This means I have only used the belt for about 50,000 km. I lodged a complaint at the consumer court to make a claim against the shop.

However, the shop came up with an excuse that I have not been servicing my engine with oil and oil filter changes on a regular basis, which caused the timing belt to fail early. Can this be a reason for why the belt broke? I have diligently changed the oil and filter according to factory recommendations (every 10,000 km). I use semi-synthetic oil.

My question to you is: Do oil and filter changes have any bearing on the aging of the timing belt? I know that sludging occurs if I don’t change the oil/filter, but the belt breaking? Your opinion is much sought after … and pardon my stupid question.
Ong from Seattle, WA

Ong,
The only stupid question is the one that doesn’t get asked. Your question is a good one and needs to be answered to substantiate your claim with KIA. First off, oil changes have no bearing on timing belt life or performance. Timing belts break for three reasons: An encumbrance cutting the belt such as a twisted piece of metal from the timing belt cover; excessive soaking of the belt with oil or engine coolant, which causes the belt to soften and break up; and finally, wear from age. That’s about it. Success to you on your claim.
Tom

Effie,
There are many possible causes of an A/C leak. A broken A/C refrigerant line, leaking evaporator core, leaking condenser or dryer, a faulty compressor or a leak in one of the lines. Have the dealer perform a dye test on the system. The tech installs a fluorescent dye in the system and then you will drive the vehicle that day. The next day you bring the car back to the shop so that the tech can shine an ultra violet light on the A/C system to locate the leak (shows up as a bring yellow color). This test makes finding stubborn A/C leaks a snap. Best to you.
Tom

Sergio,
The two problems could be related. Get the car up on a lift and have the rear suspension checked for a bad control arm mounting bushing or shock bushing. Also, check the rear brakes for a hung up brake shoe, bad return spring, loose backing plate, or seized e-brake cable. There’s not much more I can suggest without looking at the car myself. Good luck!
Tom

Randi,
There’s no reason why this car can’t use synthetic oil. Just check your owner’s manual before switching over to make sure. Some manufacturers do not recommend the use of synthetic oil for engine-engineering reasons. The oil change interval with synthetic can be extended from 3,000 miles to 7,500 miles or 3 months to 6 months, whichever comes first. The two best synthetics out there are AMSOIL and Mobil One. Make sure to use an OEM quality oil filter when changing, and yes, 13,400 miles is a good time to switch over. Best to you.
Tom

John,
Make sure the area you are working on is clear of obstruction. ANY component that is in the way should be cleared, alternators included. Next, make sure you center punch the broken bolt so you can drill in the center of the bolt. Use a drill that has variable speed control and drill slowly and deliberately. I suggest you get a titanium drill bit set and start with a small bit, working up one size at a time until you are one size away from drilling out the threads. Once you have gotten to this point, take a tap that fits the hole and thread size and start running the tap into the bolt hole. SLOWLY and DELIBERATELY turn a half turn, then back out and turn a little deeper, then back out, and so on. The tap will cut the old bolt out and find the original threads. Use lubricant and air (if available) to clear the hole of metal. This job can be done if you take it very slowly and meticulously. Good luck. Let me know how it turns out.

Stan,
This is correct. The two chemicals are different in their chemical makeup and if mixed, will react and change to a consistency of Jell-O. This will cause the engine to overheat and blow head gaskets or warp/crack cylinder head/s. Don’t mix the two!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

George,
Rubber wears off the carcass as tires roll down the road. When the tires were originally balanced, they were balanced based on the rubber mass at the time the job was done. Now, 18,600 miles later, the overall rubber mass has changed and thus the trueness of the balance. Based on these facts, I recommend rotating and re-balancing tires every 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. A lot of tire shops offer lifetime rotation and balance service, so you only have to pay for the job one time. I know Goodyear offers this deal. Perhaps there is another shop in your area that does as well. It’s worth it.
Tom

Jim,
A question like this indicates that you are way over your head on this repair. You may want to consider that before proceeding, because it could cost you more in the long run. The clutch bleed screw for the clutch slave cylinder is located on the cylinder (on the bell housing where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch fork). Since this is a front wheel drive vehicle, the slave cylinder should be located towards the firewall. There was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for clutch fluid leakage from the clutch master cylinder on this model vehicle, which would account for the air in the line. Check the brake pedal for brake fluid leakage. If it’s wet, the clutch master cylinder has to be replaced too. The clutch slave cylinder is bled just like brakes. Pump until the pedal gets hard again, hold it down and crack the bleeder screw, and bleed until clear fluid flows out of the cylinder and the pedal is hard. Good luck.
Tom

Louis,
The horn circuit on your vehicle consists of a switch, relay, wiring, horns, and a 20 AMP fuse in the fuse box. Start with the fuse; check your owner’s manual to find its location. Then check it to see if the fuse is blown. If it is, replace it and all should be well providing you don’t have a short in the system. If the fuse blows immediately, then there’s a short in the system that has to be traced. If the fuse is good, then the problem could be a faulty electrical component, wire, power or ground connection. In addition, a bad clock spring can cause loss of power to the horn. It’s an electrical connector with a metal spring design. The clock spring transfers electrical power from the bottom half of the column to the top half where the horn is located. Chrysler issued a recall on this because it also affects the air bag. Check to see if the recall has been done on your vehicle. If not, have it done and this should restore the horn.
Tom

Marsha,
Yes, the dealer is missing something. It’s called a parasitic electrical draw that draws on the battery while the car sits. How do you check for this condition? Hook a voltmeter to the battery and monitor voltage while disconnecting one circuit at a time. When the voltage drops, you have found the faulty circuit. Next you have to trace the circuit until you find the shorted wire or component. Talk to the dealer service manager and ask him to run this test. Best to you.
Tom

Stan,
Yes, I can suggest a fix albeit I don’t know how “cheap” it will be. The wandering could be a loose rack internally, loose rack mounts, loose tie rods, cradle mounts, low tire pressure, worn rag joint at the rack, or worn u-joint in the steering coupler between the rack and steering wheel. Someone is not doing his job to diagnose the problem. Find another shop that’s competent. They should be able find out why your vehicle has wanderlust whilst tooling down the road.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Josh,
According to Honda, the timing belt replacement interval for your car is every 105,000 miles. There is no time interval. Given the age of the vehicle, I would remove the timing belt cover and inspect the belt for cracks or broken ribs. If it looks good, then reinstall the cover and check it again in another 25,000 miles. Your Civic has an interference engine which means, if the timing belt breaks, the valves will collide violently with the pistons, causing catastrophic engine failure. Honda also says to inspect the water pump at the same time you inspect or change the belt because the water pump is driven by the timing belt. If the water pump goes, replace the timing belt too. Why? Because you have to remove the belt (labor intensive) in order to replace the pump anyway, and this should give you peace of mind, knowing you won’t be facing engine failure down the road due to a broken timing belt. Success to you.
Tom

Ray,
At this stage it’s a bit late to change to synthetic oil. You need to find the cause of the engine knock. Chemical changes and “quick fixes” don’t reverse the effects of metal wear and fatigue, which is what your engine is exhibiting. Perform an oil pressure test to find out if the oil pressure is low and go from there. If it’s low, then you need to partially disassemble the engine to determine the extent of the internal wear. My guess? You’ve got internal bearing wear, specifically rod/main bearings, and possibly the oil pump. Good luck.
Tom

Sandra,
The answer to this question is a tough call. On high mileage transmissions, fluid change is a crapshoot because one has no way of knowing the extent of internal wear. When the old fluid is burnt and worn out (dark brown), there is an increase in friction and thus heat. The excess heat reacts with the glue on the back of the clutches and makes it brittle and crystallized. When new fluid is introduced into the trans, the detergents in the fluid scrub the old glue away from the back of the clutches which renders the transmission useless. Take it to the dealer. Have them drop the pan so they know the extent of internal wear, and proceed from there. If the wear material in the pan is extensive, change the fluid in the pan and filter, button it up, and drive it. Don’t do a complete flush.
Tom

Kevin,
Your decision to keep the car and replace the engine is a good one, assuming that you have maintained the car meticulously over the years as you implied. To find a low mileage engine, you have to search the salvage yards. Higher quality salvage yards post engine mileage on the engine AND offer a good warranty that covers parts and labor should the used power plant fail within the allotted time/mileage of the warranty. Obviously you will pay more money for a lower mileage engine. If the yard doesn’t have what you’re looking for, ask them to go on the “Hot Wire” to find one. This is a network of yards that share their inventory with each other to better serve the public and move their inventory. Also, when replacing the engine, make sure you get the emissions-related parts that go with the new engine or you will have problems with the drivability and emissions inspection in your state. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.

Dear Tom,

Recently I bought a used Pontiac 2004 Grand Prix as is, with no warranty. I was told the car had no problems. I test-drove the car before buying it and it handled well. Two days later I noticed the lights dimmed when I used the power windows. Also, the temperature gauge dropped while driving. I took it back to the car lot; they checked it and said that it was nothing to worry about and that these cars are known for gauge malfunctions. The next day I lowered the passenger window and now it won’t go back up. Do you think the car might have an electrical problem? If so, how to I handle this situation with the car lot? I spent all my money on the car and can’t afford to repair it. And I don’t expect to, since I just bought it!

Sally from Walla Walla, WA

Sally,

I would run a Carfax report on the car to see if it’s a flood victim. Thousands of cars came out of the Gulf Coast floods as rebuilt flood victims and many end up with electrical problems. Sounds like this could be the case. For the record, these cars are not noted for gauge problems. Just check www.nhtsa.gov and you will see for yourself. After you run a Carfax report, approach the car let owner in a non-accusatory manner and try to come to a solution. Either they can replace the car if you find out it is a flood victim, or they can repair it free of charge if nothing comes up in the report. Good luck.
Tom

I replaced the battery in my 2002 Saturn L300 in September 2007. I replaced it again in April 2008 and again last month! The AAA technician told me that something is draining the battery.  He told me that I would need another one within six months if I don’t find and repair the problem. I had the alternator checked and it’s okay. What else could cause a drain on the battery?

Barbara from Reno, NV

Barbara,
Find a shop that specializes in electrical repairs and have them perform a parasitic electrical draw test. The tech will hook up a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to the battery and monitors voltage (while eliminating one circuit at a time) until he find the source of the draw. Draws can happen from a faulty electrical component, shorted switch, or grounded hot wire. Repairs of this nature are charged on a time and material basis. Once again, find a shop that specializes in this type of repair. Experienced techs know exactly to find these gremlins. Success to you.
Tom

I own a GMC pickup 1500 series that won’t start in cold damp weather. When it’s dry outside the truck runs fine; it only happens when it’s rainy. Any suggestions?

Ed from Buffalo, NY

Ed,
Repairs of this nature are difficult because you have to replicate the condition. Try spraying down the engine compartment with water, and then try to track down the cause. Electrical maladies of this nature are usually tracked to a poor electrical connection in the ignition system or bad sparkplug wires. Try to follow this procedure in the dark. That way, if the wires are leaking voltage, it will show up as a light show from the arching sparkplug wires. Good luck.

Tom

I own a ‘98 Lexus LS 400 with 190,000 miles. For the last year, I have spent $1,500 on the front end.  First I got the struts changed, then the ball joint and the arm, and then the bushings that are on the top of the struts. When the car goes over a bump at 20mph or over a dip at 55 mph, the front end makes a clicking sound. At the lower speeds (depending on which way I am turning) only one side or the other clicks. However, on the freeway going 55mph both right and left sides click at the same time. My theory is that the replacement struts are too weak (Monroe struts) for this car. The mechanic who replaced the struts with a lifetime warranty doesn’t want to replace the carriage springs.

Dhaval from San Jose, CA

Dhaval,
Have the engine mounts and cradle bolts checked. It sounds like the noise occurs when the powertrain shifts. An engine mount or cradle mount could cause this condition. If all checks out, have a set of “Chassis Ears” installed on the body at the location where you think the noise is emanating. They are a set of small microphones that are attached to a set of headphones. They allow the tech to listen to the noise while driving the car. “Chassis Ears” are very helpful in tracking down tough noises. Best to you.

Tom

I own a ‘93 Toyota Camry and the air conditioning is on the fritz.  My mechanic told me that it would cost around $2,500 to repair it. I am a 70-year-old woman who seems to get ripped off every time I need car repair work. Does this figure seem about right? Thank you for your help.

Nan from Port Ritchie, FL

Nan,

Get a second opinion. I have seen A/C repair run that high, but you didn’t tell me what they are doing for that money. Compressor replacement? Condenser replacement? Dryer? Evaporator core? Retro fit? There are many aspects to air conditioning repair, so get a second opinion from a high quality shop. If you’re not sure where to find a shop, call AAA and ask for one that specializes in HVAC repairs in your area.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site:  www.americascarshow.com

You should always keep running tabs that show the average miles per gallon your vehicle is achieving. You can check the average mileage that you are getting and if the figures have begun to drop 10-15% there is a good chance that your automobile would benefit from a little TLC at a garage.

Of course there are some additional signs that can give you clues that let you know if your car could use a tune-up. When you perform routine tune-ups on a vehicle you are rewarded with better mileage and performance, but sometimes some small adjustments can be needed in between scheduled maintenance visits.

There are other reasons besides a tune up that could be the cause of many automotive woes, but this procedure will often clear up minor problems and it is relatively inexpensive.

Here are some of the top problems that occur in cars that are begging for a tune-up:

• Misfiring of the engine becomes more frequent
• Unusually rough running, engine coughs and sputters
• Fast Idling is noticeable, especially when the engine is warm
• Low power is obvious, especially on hills or when accelerating
• Rough idling can be felt by the driver and passengers
• Engine pings and knocks
• Black smoke from the exhaust pipe
• Engine continues to run for a few seconds after the car is turned off
• Engine hesitation
• Problems starting the engine

Usually you will notice more than one of these signs, and the more of them that are present, the greater the chance that you should take your car in for a check up soon. Some people have cars that may occasionally exhibit one or two of these problems; this is not necessarily an indicator that a tune up is in order. It is when these types of automotive symptoms suddenly occur that the alarm buzzers go off.

If you have been driving a car that has always had a little engine ping that you are used to hearing it may be very normal. You can ask a mechanic to check it out for you, but if your vehicle has already had an extensive work up and it is tuned to perfection, another tune up will not be necessary. There are some automobiles that have idiosyncrasies and if the problem is not major then you should not become overly concerned.

Proper maintenance will keep your car running longer and stay in better shape. But what about those unexpected mechanical breakdowns? Your extended car warranty policy will cover the repairs if you’ve purchased it from Warranty Direct.

There are a few things that you can do to keep the temperature down. Follow these simple tips in order to keep your car reasonably cool.

The biggest thing you can do is remember that shade is your friend. Parking under the shade in your car can make a huge difference when it comes to the overall temperature of your car.

Whenever you enter a parking lot, try to see if there are any trees nearby. Many times, the parking lot will have trees in little grassy areas for decoration. While it adds to the aesthetics of the parking lot, it can also be a big help for you and the temperature inside your car. Sometimes you can find the shady side of a building in a parking lot. Even if you have to park a little farther away from the front door, it will be well worth it when it comes time to get back in your car.

When you’re at home, an obvious way to help keep your car cool is to park inside the garage. Those that have a garage have a decided advantage over those that don’t in regards to temperature regulation in their vehicles. While garages usually aren’t heated and cooled, they will be a little cooler than the outside world. If you keep the garage door shut, it will usually be pretty dark in there. The lack of sunlight will help keep the temperature down in the garage and in your car.

Another great tool that you can use to keep your car cool is a windshield shade. Windshield shades make a huge difference in keeping the temperature down in your car. They prevent direct sunlight from getting into your car and on to the interior. Many times, the interior features in your car are dark, and when sunlight gets on them directly, it will make them extremely hot to the touch. A windshield shade will prevent any of this from happening. They are relatively inexpensive and they come in a variety of different styles and colors. You can definitely find one that will go nicely with the color scheme of your car.

Yet another obvious thing that you can do is to keep your windows cracked on the car. Just an inch or two of space can allow a lot of air to flow from the outside. This will make a huge difference in the air temperature inside the car.

Overall, these tips should make a big difference for you in keeping your car cool. While they can help, just remember NEVER leave any animals or small children in the car during these times. The car can still get way too hot for them. With that in mind, just take these simple steps to keep your car comfortable in the summer.

If your car overheats this summer, will you have the money on hand to pay for the repairs? With Warranty Direct’s easy payment plan for extended car warranties, it’s easy for you to buy a warranty and know that mechanical breakdowns and overheating will be covered.

Read on for tips that will save you money on maintaining your car.

Auto Club—to Join or Not to Join?

Before you invest in a yearly auto club membership, check first with your dealer. Whether you buy a new or a used car, many places provide a free one-year roadside assistance policy. In that case, you can save $50-$120 per year by forgoing a separate membership. If you buy an extended car warranty from Warranty Direct, you’ll get 24/7 roadside assistance coverage as part of the plan.

Keeping it Clean

For about ten bucks, you can drive you car through an automatic carwash, preferably touchless. For less than this, you can put on some shorts or a bathing suit, slather yourself with sunscreen, and wash it down yourself.

Use soft chamois cloths and cleaning products made for automobile finishes. Improper chemicals and heavy hand pressure while washing can scratch the finish. Teach one of your teenagers to do this as part of the weekly chore list. Follow directions carefully to preserve your car’s finish. Apply wax about four times a year. Protecting the finish will preserve the car’s resale value.

Premium versus Regular

Most cars are equipped to run on low-octane fuel. The only time you need to splurge on the premium is if you see a sticker shouting at you from the car’s fuel door, or if using the lower stuff makes your engine knock. Even then, you might just need a tune-up. Your yearly savings are unknown considering the unpredictable price of gasoline these days, but they will add up.

Service with a Smile

Don’t run to the dealership for basic servicing. Your local independent service repair shop is fine. Look for ASE-certified mechanics, because they have passed performance tests in order to earn this certification.

Patronizing independent shops will not void your warranty. Ask neighbors or your local business owners who they use, and when you go there mention who recommended you. Any businessman is likely to perform more carefully if he is not only establishing a relationship with a new customer, but also preserving one with an old customer. These places can do lube-oil-filter jobs, tune-ups, tire rotation, brakes, and many other small repairs.

Take larger jobs that fall under warranty coverage to the dealership. If a dealership tells you that a repair won’t be covered under the warranty, ask to see where that’s written.

What Jobs Can You Do?

There are many things you can do on your own. You can change your windshield wiper blades. You can change your air filter. For less than twenty-five bucks, let the independent shop change the messy oil—they’ll also top off your other fluids.

Check out Edmunds.com or other car maintenance websites for how-to advice. Learn how to change a tire, and make certain your spare is ready for use. Check your tire pressure monthly for best fuel economy and protecting your tires.

In summary…

Read your car manual, see what schedule of maintenance they recommend at the various ages of your car, and talk with other people about it. You’ll learn to be more savvy about how your car runs and how to spend less on upkeep. And that’s a good thing!

Beyond just the cooling system flush, there are other items you should consider when it’s time to service your car’s cooling system.

So you don’t do damage to other components like pistons, pins, crankshaft, or bearings a cooling system check-up should be performed at least once a year or if you think you have problems, seek out your mechanic right away.

Some later model vehicles can trap air that reduces heater output—this can create harm to the engine.

Check your owner’s manual for recommended services such as bleeding procedures and make sure all reservoir components are filled to correct levels. If you are unsure on the elements of your cooling system, visit your repair shop.

What Are the Elements of a Cooling System?

First, we know that the cooling system helps your engine cool and running at top performance. What coolant system elements ensure this though?

1. Antifreeze or coolant are both important for your cooling system. They keep things from freezing and help your vehicle avoid corrosion. You should change your antifreeze every two years or 24,000 miles.

2. The cooling fan helps circulate air through the radiator and can be mechanical or electric depending on your car. If these fans quit working, your engine can overheat. A good technician can make sure your drive belt and fan belts are working correctly and not loose or cracked—if they are, they can be replaced.

3. The pressure cap or the radiator cap should fit snugly and your mechanic should check this at least once a year. If your vehicle is hot, don’t try and remove the cap yourself or you could receive severe burns.

4. The coolant reservoir is where your fluids go. If this is low, your mechanic will refill all the fluids necessary to keep your cooling system working top notch.

5. The thermostat in your car regulates the flow of temperature. If your thermostat isn’t working correct, you could experience overheating, engine knocking, and even poor fuel efficiency.

6. We can’t live without our heating and air-conditioning systems. Each year, when you have your coolant system check-up, your mechanic will check the vehicle’s HVAC system to make sure it’s working properly.

Check-Ups Are Key

To make sure your entire coolant system is working properly, make a trip to your repair shop and have them perform a coolant system check-up on your vehicle. They can recommend any necessary repairs or give your coolant system a healthy report card.

The best way to avoid costly repairs is by prevention and check-ups, even for your coolant system. Be sure to request a coolant system check-up each and every year.

Proper maintenance of your car will pay off. So will buying an extended car warranty from Warranty Direct.

Not only are these nasty and problematic to remove, most non-techie people don’t understand where the leak is coming from or what it means. Maybe you have a neighbor who knows it all and tells you it’s just “water condensation.” It’s probably not, and beyond your own driveway—you don’t want to leave nasty spot leaks on someone else’s driveway either.

So, how can you determine what the leaky spot means? We asked a Master Technician to help us better understand out spots!

Identifying the Fluids

First, you need to identify the fluid that is leaking. Our technician told us to place a pretty ample piece of white cardboard under your car. It’s important to put the cardboard in the place you see the spot. Now, go off to dinner and bed and let it sit overnight.

In the morning, carefully slide the cardboard out so you can examine the fluid leak or leaks. The color of the spots and their textures can give you a pretty good idea of what may be leaking.

• Engine Oil – If the spot is black and oily, it’s probably engine oil. The best trick to determine this is by using that oil dipstick and placing a few drops of your engine oil next to the spots—if it matches—you now know what it is. Keep an eye on your leak and if the spot is larger than a silver dollar, call your mechanic.

• Transmission Fluid – If your spot is red and oily, it could be transmission fluid. Your car needs this in order for the transmission to run correctly. Have you ever heard the term, “he burned up his tranny?” Well, that’s probably because his transmission fluid leaked or hadn’t been level checked for a while. Visit your repair shop for this type of leak so you don’t cause damage to your transmission, which cost thousands of dollars to replace.

• Coolant Leaks – If the spot is green, yellow and a little oily, you may have a coolant leak. You should be able to identify a small black rubber hose attached to your radiator. Follow the trail of this hose until you find a tank shaped component. This is your coolant recovery tank. If this tank is empty, you have a coolant leak problem so ask your technician to pressure test your coolant system to identify where the system is leaking.

• Brake Fluid – if your spot is oily but clear, it’s probably the brake fluid. These spots are found more by the tires and wheels. Take heed with these types of spots and leaks! Your brakes could fail if you lose all your brake fluid.

• Other Spots – If you have a spot that is clear in color and not oily in texture, it could be your windshield washer fluid or air-conditioning unit. Both of these have hoses and if you can’t see any cracks in the hoses and your vehicle continues to leak, you should have your mechanic check this type of leak out.

Our Master Technician told us that any vehicle can run on “low” fluids but if they get too low in level or diminish all the way (meaning empty), you could do some serious damage to your vehicle. Prevent these leaks by performing regularly scheduled maintenance on your vehicle. Preventative medicine is not only good for you; it’s good for your car and will keep your extended car warranty in force.

For those of us who aren’t mechanical in nature, our first thought is to pull right over and call someone. This isn’t always the case, but what should you do if the check engine light comes on?

A surprising fact is that more than eight percent of all cars on the highway keep going for long miles with their check engine light on. Why? Most people have been told by their friends that it could be just a loose gas cap or a missing gas cap, so they drive on and on.

But, what if it isn’t that? When your check engine light comes on, it could be for a multitude of reasons.

First, you don’t need to panic. As safety became so important in vehicle design, so did warning systems, and that’s all this is—a warning that something may need to be repaired or fixed—not fail.

Take Your Car to the Repair Shop

Your best option is to visit your repair shop to see why the check engine light came on in the first place. All vehicles these days have a computer that is called the ECM or the Electronic Control Module and this computer can diagnose problem areas causing your check engine light to illuminate. Once you are at the repair shop, the ECM will give codes to your technician telling them what is wrong with your vehicle.

Some codes may just be a missing gas cap. Or, if the check engine light is flashing, it could mean your engine is misfiring—something you should take care of right away. Since the computer onboard your vehicle is there to detect things, it could be things like low oil pressure or an overheating condition.

A check engine light can mean that some bulbs aren’t working correctly. Things you can do are to check your dashboard for other gauges such as oil pressure or heating controls. If they are lit as well, you may have solved the problem. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t get these fixed, however.

Even tightening your gas cap can help solve the problem. There are many reasons why your check engine light can come on and unless it resets itself (usually be the tightening of a gas cap), you’ll need to go to your repair shop to see what is wrong with the vehicle.

Read Your Owner’s Manual

The best advice is to read your owner’s manual when you first buy your car. They have a detailed section on what your illuminated check engine light could mean and types of things you should be concerned about before you continue along the road.

The best way to ensure that your check engine light stays off is to keep up with the required maintenance your manufacturer’s make and model recommends. We all practice preventative maintenance when it comes to our health so why not practice it with your vehicle?

Don’t Just Ignore It!

Remember, ignoring an illuminated check engine light could bring serious problems. One big issue is that if your light comes on and you do nothing, the computer can indicate to the technician how long it has been on and if it’s a warranty repair condition, you could be denied repairs for ignoring the problem.

Be smart with your car and have it looked at if your check engine light comes on.