When is the best time to look for a high quality auto repair shop? Answer, before you need one. Making a sound decision is difficult when you are faced with a car problem and time restraints. Also, emergencies create an emotional climate that thwarts a clear and objective evaluation. Finding a shop takes time and patience; you want to research and evaluate the facts. So find a repair facility before you need one.

The process of evaluating repair shops is really quite simple. Call or visit shops in your area. The best time to call or visit is between 9A – noon because it is after the morning rush and cars are in the bays being evaluated. By noon the techs have completed their diagnoses, come up with an estimate of repairs, and customers are being called to discuss the necessary repair work. Thus, 9A – noon is lag time for the owner/shop manager. Catch them any other time and you might find them curt.

Once you have the owner/shop manager’s undivided attention, tell them you are looking for a repair shop. Ask them what professional automotive repair associations they belong to. Membership in associations such as AAA (AAA Approved Auto Repair), iATN (International Auto Technicians Association), ASA (Automotive Service Association), or TechNet (Carquest Technician’s Network) means the shop and/or technicians care about their level of expertise and have met the standards of membership. In addition, look for membership in such associations as the BBB (Better Business Bureau), SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), ASP (Automotive Service Professionals), and ICAR (Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair). Involvement in these organizations tells you that the owner of the repair facility is interested in the quality of the workmanship, and most likely operates by a code of ethics expected by the organization. In addition, membership in these associations often requires that the shop subject itself to an arbitration process that is binding, should the need for arbitration between customer and shop arise.

To further make this point, consider the following: To become an “AAA Approved Auto Repair Facility,” a shop must undergo a rigorous investigation. In addition to having state-of-the-art equipment, training, qualified technicians, and information systems in place, the shop must score high with its customers. AAA contacts roughly 100 of the shop’s most recent customers and conducts a CSI (Consumer Satisfaction Index) study (the number varies from club to club but it represents a significant number of the shop’s most recent customer base). They ask the customers questions such as:

• Was the estimated bill the same or close to the actual bill?
• Was the job done on time?
• Did they fix it right the first time?
• What kind of warranty did they give you?
• Was the shop clean and presentable?
• Did they offer a ride to work or somewhere you needed to go?
• Was there a comfortable, pleasant, and clean waiting area?

If the repair facility meets their standards, it is granted membership and they can hang the “AAA Approved” shingle. Membership in such an associations is a significant qualifier when evaluating a facility.

While visiting the shop(s) you’re interested in, note whether they are clean and orderly. Ask their customers, “Why do you do business with this shop?” Some answers don’t hold much credibility, such as: “They are the cheapest.” “They offer a lot of specials.” “Because the owner is a friend of my father’s.” Look for responses such as: “They fix my car right the first time.” “I can trust them to do the job at a fair price.” “No surprises when I pick up the car.” “The price is always what we agree on.” “They welcome my questions and concerns and take the time to answer them.” “They explain in plain English what the problem is and what my options are.” “Their technicians are the best in the area.” Good “word of mouth” is a great qualifier.

While at the facility, look for technician certifications displayed on the wall. If the walls are bare, ask to see the techs’ certifications. This will tell you a lot about the people that work at the facility. What shingles and certifications should you look for?

• Certification from ASE, ACDelco, ASP, and/or manufacturers such as GM, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan
• Aftermarket training from such leaders as NAPA/Echlin, Moog, Carquest, TRW, ACDelco, or Bendix
• Continued education from a technical training college

These shingles are evidence that the technicians have taken the initiative to “go beyond the call of duty” and keep up with changes in their field. Not only are they trained in the latest technology, but they also show a serious interest and pride in their work. Continued education/certifications also convey that the owner of the shop cares about the quality of the work because usually he/she is the one who foots the bill for any extended training.

Another factor to consider when choosing a repair facility is the equipment and repair information systems available. Does the shop have state-of-the-art equipment such as hand-held computer scanners and diagnostic software, digital volt-ohm meters, logic probes, lab scopes, and on-line repair information systems like Alldata, or Mitchell-On-Demand? Don’t be afraid to ask if they have these resources. Up-to-date information systems and tools are necessary to diagnose and repair your hi-tech car accurately. Without them, fixing your automobile is a hit-and-miss proposition that you pay dearly for, in both dollars and vehicle down time.

A note about shop size: Some people think that because a shop is either smaller or larger, the price will vary greatly. That’s not true these days. With the high cost of equipment, training, and information systems, prices between dealers and large or small independent shops have balanced out. As a matter of fact, in a lot of cases we’ve seen the larger entities (dealers and larger repair facilities) actually offer more competitive pricing than the ‘little guys’ in an effort to gain more retail customer business. If the criteria we have discussed are in place, and the quality of the parts and warranties are equal, most likely the pricing will be close. At that point, it’s just a matter of where you feel most comfortable.

Finally, a note about doing a shop search and scanning reviews online at sites like Yelp, RepairPal, or through a subscription service like Angie’s List. These reviews are from laypeople who (in most cases) have no clue on how to evaluate an auto repair shop; therefore the evaluations don’t hold water. Yes, they may tell you about how they were treated and how they “felt” at the shop, but a hard-nosed evaluation based on the facts discussed in this article should be the basis for your decision when choosing an automotive repair facility.

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 Toyota 2.4L. Is there a magic 75,000-mile event that requires the expensive replacement of timing belts and chains or the engine will self-destruct? I hear stories to this effect, and my Toyota dealer hedged the question. Help!
Monica from Peoria, IL

Monica,
Your car has a timing chain, therefore there’s no timing belt to worry about. The chain should last the life of the engine. Earlier Camry’s (’01 and ’02) with the 2.2 liter engine had a timing belt. However, in 2002 Toyota did away with the 2.2 and started using a 2.4 liter engine that uses a timing chain, which does not require regular change intervals, as does the engine with the timing belt. Tell whoever is scaring you with these oldwife’s tales that he/she knows not of what they speak and to stifle themselves!
Tom

Angelita,
I checked my ALLDATA database and the manufacturer states that 5W30 synthetic motor oil is required for that car, so return the case of cheap straight 30-weight oil. If you use straight 30-weight you are asking for engine trouble. However, the thing that concerns me most is the fact that you have to add 2-3 quarts of oil between changes. This is too much oil consumption. Given the year and model of your vehicle, you may still be within factory warranty. I would call your local dealer and give them your car’s VIN and mileage to see if you are still under warranty coverage. Best to you.
Tom

Sal,
I would change the oil and filter now, and then change it according to the OLM (Oil Life Monitor) thereafter. Make sure you use only 5W30 motor oil with the “dexos” designation. This is the only acceptable motor oil for use in this engine as per GM. Using another oil will result in loss of factory warranty coverage in the event of an engine failure. Success to you.
Tom

Dave,
This car is pretty much trouble free. Aside from a few minor glitches with wipers smearing and a few engine trouble codes due to a need for software updates to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) the vehicle platform seems to be trouble free. With proper maintenance according to factory specs (following the severe service schedule) you should get many years out of this little gem.
Tom

Jackie,
That car has one of two manual transaxles offered by the carmaker. Each transaxle has shift cables that are adjustable. If the cables are properly adjusted, the problem lies within the transmission. It could be in the form of bad synchronizer or blocker rings. These are devices that shift the gears inside the trans when you manipulate the gear shifter inside the vehicle. I would say the problem lies either in a maladjusted shift cable or syncro or blocker ring, or a shifter fork problem, and NOT a clutch. If it were a clutch problem, it would be evident in all gears. Go to a transmission expert for this repair. Good luck.
Tom

Butch,
Your truck is equipped with an oil life monitor. This system measures when to change the oil based on three criteria: crankcase temperature, combustion chamber events (work the engine does), and moisture in the system. The system is accurate to within (+) or (– ) 5% of oil life. Just make sure the system is reset every time you change the oil and always use the oil that GM recommends or a better oil. Follow the dictates of the OLM and you will not go wrong. Success to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Have you ever gone to a quick lube place for an oil change and, while you’re waiting in the lobby for your car, the service bay/sales person informs you that a certain service(s) must be performed on the vehicle immediately to avert a disaster of immense proportion? Many of us can relate to this scenario. The “recommended service” they advise usually includes one or more of the following:

• High mileage oil

• Fuel system cleaning

• Brake fluid flush

• Transmission flush

• Transfer case or differential fluid change

Usually their advice takes the form of an urgent plea, concerned that something dire will happen if you don’t have the service done. What do you do? How do you handle this situation? Knowledge is power; power gives confidence to make the right decisions. So let’s look at each service, the validity of the claim, and whether or not you should follow the advice.

Does Your Vehicle Need High Mileage Oil?

High mileage oils supposedly are formulated with more robust additive packages for better lubrication and rust inhibition, along with a nourishing agent to bring old, hardened oil seals back to life. Well, if that’s true, why didn’t the company initially give me their best formulation so that my car would get more mileage out of the engine in the first place?! Ha! Not being an expert in lubrication and petroleum products, I consulted an expert in the industry to gather more information. Dan Watson, a Certified Lubrication Specialist (STLE) and publisher of www.lubedepot.com and www.maxtorque.com (an E-Zine about diesel power) sent me some bullet points to consider when offered “high mileage oil.”

• High mileage oils are fortified with additional additives for improving the ability of the oil to deal with byproducts of combustion and enhance engine cleanliness.

• Why not make all oils with robust additive packages? (My point exactly) Engines would stay cleaner and be better protected with the stronger additive package from the start.

• The age of the engine has nothing to do with the protection needed to maintain the engine and prevent wear.

• The best procedure is to start out with oil that doesn’t break down and leave sludge and varnish in the engine.

• Start the engine out using high quality synthetic engine oil and you will have superior protection and cleanliness from the start. You will never need a “better oil” when you get to a higher mileage.

• It is important to note all synthetic oils are not the same and some synthetics use virtually the same additive package as the low quality petroleum oils.

• Look for synthetic oils like AMSOIL or Mobil One; these oils have extremely robust additive packages designed for longer drain intervals. This insures you are getting highly additive-ized oil that provides maximum protection and superior cleanliness regardless of vehicle mileage.

Excellent points. Feel free to send Dan your oil and lubrication questions at danwatson@thelubepage.com.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Fuel System Cleaning?

It may come as a surprise to you, but fuel system cleaning isn’t addressed directly in maintenance schedules. I checked six specific year, make, and model vehicles in the ALLDATA database and I came up with only one reference regarding fuel delivery system inspection; and two others, one referencing fuel filter replacement and one referencing fuel line inspection. So this is a gray area. I can tell you that fuel flow creates varnish deposits and that inefficient combustion from worn sparkplugs and wires causes carbon buildup within the engine. Over time, the injectors get clogged with varnish deposits or dirt that’s picked up in the fuel. When this happens, the injectors dribble fuel into the combustion chamber rather than deliver a fine mist of air/fuel mixture for perfect combustion. I can also tell you that chemical companies that develop fuel system cleaning chemicals recommend a complete fuel system cleaning every 30K – 40K miles. Finally, as an automotive machinist, I have seen many cylinder heads and pistons loaded with carbon buildup from inefficient combustion that resulted in lean burn conditions, and thus inefficient and/or damaged engines. All this I know to be true. In addition, I can tell you that fuel additives to the fuel tank alone cannot keep a fuel system clean. During the fuel delivery system cleaning process, industrial strength carbon and varnish cleaners are injected directly into the fuel delivery system while the engine is running. The problem I have with following the recommendation to have this service done at a quick lube is that they “recommend” the service almost every time you stop in for an oil change. Also, I question the quality of the fuel system service they offer. In order for this service to work effectively, they must use a special machine and a specific set of tools, as well as an industrial grade carbon and varnish cleaner. Such equipment, found in high quality repair facilities or dealerships, are often not available at quick lubes. Don’t get me wrong; quick lubes have their place in automotive service. However, I think they are out of their league in this area of service.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Brake Fluid Flush?

Brake fluid flushing is a viable service that should be done if there is rust and sediment in the brake master cylinder. After researching several year, make, and model vehicles in the ALLDATA database, I realized that this is not a recommended service from the manufacturer. At best, carmakers suggest an inspection of the braking system at regular intervals (every 6K miles or so) that includes inspection of the brake fluid along with the rest of the system. The hydraulic braking system is designed as a closed and sealed system. When it is exposed to the atmosphere because of a broken seal or hydraulic cup, the system will draw moisture into itself because of the hydroscopic (moisture absorbing) nature of the brake fluid. So a simple inspection of the brake fluid is all that is required. When checking brake fluid, look for proper level, color, and smell. Brake fluid that is clear/translucent in color, at the proper level, with no evidence of a burnt smell, indicates a healthy braking system. If the color is black or rust-colored, there is a problem. Simple flushing will not repair the root cause of the condition. A dark or black color accompanied by a burnt smell is indication that the system has overheated. There are three causes of overheating: A stuck brake caliper, a seized emergency brake, or a contaminated wheel cylinder that causes a brake shoe to stick in the applied position. A rust-colored fluid indicates that moisture has entered the system, and therefore the system should be checked for a leaking component, a compromised line, or a torn master cylinder gasket. Brake fluid flushing alone without an inspection and/or repair of the root cause of the discolored fluid is not a repair. It is like a band-aid on a compound fracture. I do not recommend regular brake fluid flushing. It is simply not necessary unless a problem with color, level, or smell of the brake fluid is observed.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Transmission Fluid Flush?

As a regular maintenance practice (every 35 – 40K miles) transmission flushing can ensure proper operation and longevity of the transmission. Any more that 35 – 40K miles is overkill. Some carmakers suggest this service every 100K miles or more. However I don’t agree with this timeframe because transmission fluid is oil, and oil breaks down over time (especially when the unit is worked hard). In addition, I don’t agree with just flushing the fluid without replacing the transmission filter. During the flush procedure, if the old filter is left in place, dirt and wear material will be dislodged and go back into the transmission. Dirt is flowing through the unit and contaminating it again. In addition, a worn, dirty filter is expected to do the job it once did when it was new! So when flushing transmission fluid, always replace the filter. Period. On transmissions with high mileage that have a history of being neglected (have not been serviced for many thousands of miles and the fluid is dark and smells burnt, which is evidence of overheating) I do not recommend a transmission flush. On a transmission that has been overheated, internal damage might have occurred. If this is the case, when the transmission is subjected to a complete bath of fresh high-detergency transmission fluid, the transmission will fail internally. Specifically, clutches separate from their backings, rendering the unit useless. If you have a high mileage vehicle and the quick lube shop has recommended a fluid flush, get a second opinion from a drivetrain expert before proceeding… or pay the consequences.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Transfer Case or Differential Fluid Change?

Transfer cases are very quirky units. When the fluid is compromised in any way from overheating or moisture contamination they can malfunction. Symptoms of a malfunction include chatter, engaging and disengaging rapidly while in gear, slow to engage from low to high range, and a host of other strange maladies. I have actually seen TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) where carmakers consult with petroleum companies to come up with a fix for a transfer case problem by virtue of a fluid reformulation. Also, different carmakers use different fluids for their respective transfer cases. Each fluid is uniquely formulated for the respective transfer case application. This is an area of service that I would never leave to a quick lube, but rather to a drivetrain specialist or a dealership. There is simply too much room for error when it comes to filling the unit with the wrong fluid. Differentials also vary in the types of fluids they use. Leave fluid maintenance of these units to the experts!

I hope this clarifies any concerns or questions you might have before heading out to your local quick lube. Remember, knowledge is empowering, and in this case, can save you a lot of time and money (and that’s probably why you are going to the quick lube in the first place).

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 Nissan Altima and I frequently smell burning oil. I check the oil to make sure I always have oil in the engine and add as needed. What could cause this?
Barbara from Milwaukee, WI

Barbara,
Typically, when you smell oil burning, it is because oil is leaking out of the engine and onto a hot engine part such as an exhaust manifold or pipe. This vehicle came with either a 2.5 4 cylinder or a 3.5 4 cylinder engine. I would start by having the valve covers inspected for leakage. This is common after a vehicle gets some age on it. What happens is the valve cover/s leak and oil runs down the side of the engine onto something that is hot and burns the oil. Another cause is a leaking oil sending unit. This device is tapped into an oil gallery and is a sealed plug. When the seal breaks from age, oil leaks out onto the hot engine often resulting in a burning oil smell. A good tech will be able to inspect and determine the cause of the smell in short order. Good luck.
Tom

Laura,
Yes, I would fix it immediately because, if the system runs out of steering fluid, damage could occur to the steering rack or power steering pump. The leak is probably due to a leaking hose, which will cost you way less than a pump or rack replacement. In the meantime, make sure that the system is always full of fluid and that it is not allowed to run out. Good luck.
Tom

Edwin,
Start with checking the master window switch on the driver’s side. Remove the switch, disconnect the plug, find the hot wire and jump each terminal to see if you can get the window to go up and down. If you can, then the switch is bad and needs replacing. If you still can’t get the window to go up and down, then you need to open the door panel and check the window motor and wiring to it. Good luck.
Tom

Josh,
Yes, Hondas are great car, as are Toyotas, Chevys, Nissans, Hyundais, Fords, KIAS and many other vehicles out there. It’s a matter of preference, Josh. Resale values for good quality vehicles are always going to be more than lesser quality, inferior vehicles. The key is to make sure you are buying the vehicle at a fair price given the market value at the time.
Tom

Ray,
I suspect you have a leaking evaporator core in the A/C system. The evaporator is located inside the HVAC box and has refrigerant running through it. When it springs a leak, refrigerant is allowed into the vehicle cabin (that’s the mist you’re seeing). As for the smell? When a leak springs, refrigerant oil soaks the face of the core, and then when air is drawn across the core’s face, dirt is filtered out and sticks to the whole mess. Then mold and mildew form, creating what you describe as cat urine odor. Have a leak test performed on the HVAC box; I think you’ll find that a leaking evaporator unit is the root of this problem. Best to you.
Tom

Deb,
You lost me when you stated, “to see if cleaning them out worked.” Cleaning out what? The engine? Radiator? Hoses? Cooling system? I will assume that you meant radiator tubes because a radiator has multiple tubes through which coolant flows to achieve engine cooling. A process called “rodding” is performed to clean a radiator. When rodding a radiator, the end tanks are removed and a thin rod is run down through each radiator tube to clear any obstruction due to corrosion. This procedure is quite labor intensive and might cost as much if not more than a radiator replacement. Actually, $685 for a radiator replacement is reasonable considering the labor involved (4.0 hrs). The radiator itself is $286 from VW. Plus you have coolant and hose clamps or hose replacement if necessary. I priced a radiator replacement with an OEM VW radiator with a labor rate of $120 per hr with no coolant, hoses or clamps and came up with $766 before tax. Should the radiator need replacing, I think the dealer is very reasonably priced at $685.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Owner’s manuals contain a lot of important information and directions about your particular vehicle.

Problem is, lots of times car owners can’t find the manual – it has either been lost, or didn’t come with a used car purchase.

You can buy a car manual from the dealership or car manufacturer, but you can often find them online for free. Here’s a list of links for most car manuals available online.

If you want to order a paper copy of the manual, you can do so through the site or your dealer.

Dear Tom,
Other than keeping up on oil changes (I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30) and keeping up on the air filter, is there any after market stuff I can buy to increase mileage? I know there’s aftermarket stuff that increases horsepower, but not mileage. I’m looking for good quality products that are a surefire way to make a noticeable difference in mileage. Please help!
Dan from Phoenix, AZ

Dan,
Using synthetic motor oil is a good move. You might also want to change over the transmission fluid to synthetic ATF; this will help reduce internal transmission drag. Using synthetic transmission fluid is a move many carmakers use to increase fuel efficiency. Keep your tires inflated to the proper levels and replace the air filter with a K&N high-flow air filter. These combined moves should result in measurable fuel mileage increases.
Tom

Glen,
Have you even tried to start it yet? Try to crank it over. If the engine cranks, that’s a good sign. Drain the crankcase and fill it with new oil. Next, replace the oil filter, and before you install the new filter, fill it with oil. Pull a valve cover. Next, ground the coil wire and crank the engine until the rockers pump oil up into the head. Make sure you have spark from the coil, then reinsert the coil wire and start the engine up. Should the engine NOT crank, find our why. There could be rust in the cylinders or a seized crankshaft. The only way to find the cause is to disassemble the engine. If it’s extremely rusty inside, find another engine. Good luck.
Tom

Mary,
Have a computer scan done to see if there are any misfire codes. This will tell you if the plugs are dirty resulting in misfire. Bad spark plug wires can also cause this condition. Why? When the insulation breaks down then the wires crossfire. An effective way to see if the wires are cross-firing is to spray water in them. If they crossfire, then the wires need replacing. Another suggestion, have a flight tester hooked to the vehicle’s datalink connector and drive it. This way the tech can monitor the datastream to observe any anomalies in the system. Aside from this course of diagnosis, anything else is a shot in the dark. Success to you.
Tom

Tony,
Yes, the air ride suspension would help the ride of your Merc. After installing the air ride system, you can adjust the shock and strut feel by adjusting the air in the system. There are many aftermarket systems available for that car. A simple keyword search on Yahoo rendered over 400,000 results. I went to a site called “Suspension-Alternatives” and found three good kits ranging from $235 to $500. I wish you success.
Tom

Yvonne,
Interstate makes high quality products. Your car takes the Interstate Mega-Tron MT-51R battery. I research the battery and, based on the stats on Interstate’s application chard, this battery is well suited to your car, and the MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price) is $115, with the average retail price coming in at $96.95. It looks like this battery fills all your qualifiers.
Tom

Kate,
The “white smoke” could be due to condensation in the system. Typically, when it’s cold outside, hot exhaust gas passing through the cold exhaust system causes condensation (water) to form inside the system and thus “white smoke” (water vapor) comes out of the exhaust pipe until the system heats up enough to evaporate all of it. If the “white smoke” continues after warm up, you may have a blown the head gasket. And if the smoke smells like gasoline, you may have a fuel delivery problem. Good luck.
Tom

Pamela,
There is a TSB on this very issue. It is TSB# SB00-02-S002 from Isuzu. It states:
Condition:
All affected vehicles with the P1441 Evaporative Emission Code that has been diagnosed with “no fault found” from the appropriate flow chart in the Drivability and Emissions Manual.
Correction:
After determining that no faults exist for P1441, the affected vehicle may require an updated fuel sender and/or an updated calibration number. Do not replace the entire Fuel Pump and Sender assembly.

So you might need a new fuel-sending unit in your truck. Have it checked by the dealer before proceeding. Best to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with 73,500 miles and the front brakes were replaced last November. A couple of months ago I was driving down the highway and a I felt the car riding rough as if it had a flat tire, then I smelled smoke. I pulled over to the side and saw smoke coming from the left rear wheel! I had the car towed to the nearest Hyundai dealer and they said I needed rear brakes so I had them installed. A month later the same thing happened! Why?
Abe from Ashtabula, OH

Abe,
Have the emergency brake cables checked to see if they’re sticking in the “on” position. Quite often the cables freeze up due to rust and corrosion from exposure to road salt. When you apply the e-brake and then release it, the rear brakes stay in the applied position. This action wears out the rear brakes prematurely. If the vehicle is equipped with 4 wheel disc brakes, you could have a stuck brake caliper-slide causing this condition. Get it up on a lift and have the brakes checked again. Good luck to you.
Tom

Cy,
The compression might be good but the oil pressure might be in the toilet. Get a mechanical gauge hooked to the oil gallery where the oil pressure sensor is located and check it. This procedure eliminates the possibility of a bad oil pressure sensor. If the pressure is indeed low, then partial engine disassembly is necessary to evaluate internal wear. If the pressure is good, then you probably have a bad oil pressure sensor. My guess? At this mileage the oil pump is worn, as well as the main/rod bearing. At this mileage, the car doesn’t owe you anything. Maybe a total rebuild or replacement with a remanufactured unit such as a Jasper engine is in order if the body is still in good shape. Best to you.
Tom

David,
Initially this sounded out of line to me so I checked the Toyota maintenance schedule as per ALLDATA to confirm my suspicions. According to the maintenance schedule for this car, there’s nothing to indicate any such costs associated with the 30K mile maintenance.
See for yourself. Here is a list of the items at 30,000 miles as per Toyota for the 2010 Prius. I see nothing that would indicate a cost of $3,000. Sounds you’re your information source was wrong. I like the Prius as do the majority of the country’s motor press, so buy away!
Air Filter Element Replace, Ball Joint Inspect, Body and Frame Tighten/Torque, Brake Hose/Line Inspect, Cabin Air Filter Replace, Condenser, HVAC Inspect, Constant Velocity Joint Boot Inspect, Coolant Inspect, Disc Brake System Inspect, Drive Belt Inspect, Drum Brake System Inspect, Engine Oil Replace, Evaporative Emissions Hose Inspect, Exhaust System Inspect Fluid – A/T Inspect, Fuel Filler Cap Inspect, Fuel Supply Line Inspect, Fuel Tank Mounting Straps Inspect, Oil Change Reminder Lamp Reset, Oil Filter, Engine Replace, Radiator Inspect, Spark Plug Inspect, Steering Inspect, Steering Gear Inspect, Tires Rotate.

Evan,
First off, thanks so much for your service to our country. I see no reason to use this or any other oil treatment, especially in the engines of such thoroughbred of cars. These are high performance engines. I suggest that you start using synthetic motor oil, and I highly recommend AMSOIL because it is the best on the market. Oil treatments throw off the delicate blend of chemical fortifier packages, which sacrifices lubricating and rust inhibiting capacities, and (in some cases), causes acid buildup in the crankcase, which is not good for bearings. Just keep fresh synthetic oil in the engine according to the manufacturer drain intervals and you should log many more miles on these wonderful driving machines. Success to you.
Tom

Melvin,
Sometimes when the wheels sit overnight and it is cold outside, condensation forms on the rotor faces and a light film of rust forms. When you drive the vehicle in the morning, the rust is being scraped off by the brake pads, which causes the scrubbing sound. Once the rust is gone, the noise goes away. Additionally, have the inner fender wells checked. It’s possible that one of the wells has dropped due to a broken retainer and the tire is hitting it. Finally, it could be a seized brake caliper; in this case, the brake can’t retract after letting off the brake pedal. Get the vehicle into a shop for a brake and undercarriage inspection. Best to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
In a recent column at AOL Autos you wrote about oil changes. In the feedback I noticed that there weren’t any questions about changing transmission fluid. I also noticed that a lot of automotive shops only want to change the fluid and not the filter. Is this a good thing?
Delilah from New Orleans

Delilah,
First of all, it is not a good thing to change the oil and leave the old filter. Always change the filter too, and use a high quality one. Scrimping is this area is penny wise and pound-foolish. As far as the transmission is concerned, the fluid is usually changed at 30-36K miles with a new filter. A lot of shops today use a flush machine. This device can suck old fluid out and pump new fluid in without taking the pan off. I do not recommend this procedure. As a matter of fact, flush machines reverse-flush the transmission fluid, sending dislodged dirt and wear particles back into the transmission. I recommend the standard method, and when you have it done, follow the maintenance schedule and change the filter along with the fluid.
Tom

Judy,
It could be due to a bad switch, a wiring problem, or a faulty heating element. There is a technical service bulletin from GM on this problem. It is TSB number 01-08-50-012B. They advise that you check the switch and wiring and if all is okay, then replace the heating element. TSBs are not covered under warranty.
Tom

Marcie,
All I can tell you is that the warranty you bought is probably an extended warranty on Powertrain/Drivetrain administered by a private company. I would closely check the warranty info and contact the warranty company. They should be able to answer any questions you have. I wish you success.
Tom

Pete,
First off, the carmaker doesn’t mention a light that you describe so you’re probably seeing the “Maintenance Reminder” light, which reminds you that it’s time for an oil change. I see nothing in my data that even remotely refers to a “check with dealer” indicator lamp. Read your owner’s manual on the topic “interior information system.” It should tell you what that light indicates. Best to you.
Tom

Randy,
The GM Oil Life Monitor is accurate to within five percent (5%) of oil life; the algorithm monitors engine crankcase temperature, moisture, and combustion chamber events. Monitoring of these areas accurately predicts oil life, so go ahead and follow its recommendation. Just make sure that you properly reset the system it after changing the oil. Success to you.
Tom

Ethel,
Sounds like the compressor is low on refrigerant and oil, or an idler pulley is going bad on the automatic belt tensioner. It shouldn’t cycle so frequently; you probably have a refrigerant leak that is causing the excessive cycling.
Tom

Milt
Power windows have an electric motor, a wiring harness that feeds the motor, and a switch that controls the motor. Either the motor is bad, or there are bad connections, or the wiring harness is broken to that door, or the switch is faulty. My guess? A faulty switch. Have it checked out by a pro to determine the cause.
Tom

Deb,
How ‘bout them Packers huh?! Cooling systems can be checked with a pressure test. During this process, the tech applies air pressure to the system, trying to force a leak at the weakest point. If it’s the radiator, a leak will spring as soon as the pressure gets beyond the radiator’s capacity to hold it. It’s a pretty simple process. Get a second opinion and have a shop perform the test to see what they come up with. Good luck.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder and it had a squeaky belt since I bought it in 2006. It only squeaked when it was cold outside, and the squeak lessened as the car warmed up. I got tired of the noise so I replaced the serpentine belt a few months ago (the old one was pitted and cracked). Well, the noise stopped for a day or two. Now it squeaks in both cold and warm weather! And the noise is constant! However, it does stop when the car gets to a certain rpm. The noise is loud and drives me crazy. How can it be the belt when it is new? What else can it be? I am desperate…
Debbie from Portsmouth, NH

Debbie,
It sounds like the automatic belt tensioner has gone bad, which would cause the belt to squeak in both cold and warm weather. The tensioner is a spring-loaded idler pulley that rides against the back of the belt as it courses around the pulley system. When it goes bad, the belt squeals. Have it checked out. My guess is that it will need to be replaced. I wish you success.
Tom

Rahim,
On a 2006 Lexus, if the converter were indeed bad, I would want to look for an uncontrolled high fuel delivery cause. Typically the temperature sensor goes bad and dumps raw fuel inside the engine. The converter can’t process excessive, unburned, raw fuel so a rock of carbon forms and eventually stops the exhaust stream. This condition causes the vehicle to stall due to high backpressure. Yes, you do need to replace the converter. However, more importantly, you need to stop the uncontrolled fuel delivery to make sure the converter doesn’t clog again.
Tom

Alice,
Check your owner’s manual for octane requirements. I would guess anything 89 and higher would be acceptable. The reason they told you to use premium is because the car has a high performance engine meaning that it has high compression pistons, creating a much hotter combustion chamber environment. Regular octane fuel ignites easier in such an environment because it’s not as stable as premium fuel. If you use regular octane over a prolonged period of time, you will damage the engine. Success to you.
Tom

David,
It is difficult for me to give you proper advice, since I can’t see the problem to evaluate it. However, here goes… If the dash is pulling away from the vehicle’s interior, I would get under the dash and try to move it while shining a light underneath to see if there are any loose mounting bolts. If the dashboard is coming away from the dash’s foundational structure, then look for a loose or missing securing bolt. Finally, if the external pad is lifting up, go to your local body shop supply house and ask for a pad sealer. If it comes loose again after you glue it back into place, you will have to replace the dash. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Tom

Ray,
You might have done just that, Ray, and I agree. Why can’t carmakers offer an option of Photo-Gray window glass for automobiles? Brilliant concept! I love it!
Tom

Duane,
Using higher octane than the carmaker recommends is not detrimental to your vehicle. However, it IS detrimental to your wallet! And you don’t get any better performance with a higher octane fuel in this case. Drop to 87 octane and enjoy the pleasures of driving a vehicle that costs you less. Best to you.
Tom

Robin,
I researched the engine mount issue and found that the mounts on that car tend to degrade because the rubber portions of the mounts are exposed to the intense heat from the exhaust manifolds. There are updated mounts from Cadillac that can withstand higher temperatures. As for the tie rods, there are no problems listed from Cadillac, so I would question the quality of the parts that are being installed. Finally, there are no pending class actions on these problems with your car. Good luck.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2007 Buick Lucerne. During humid mornings or evenings moisture accumulates on the windows as soon as I start the car. Activating the defroster does no good. If I put the defroster on high blower and the heat on high, then eventually the windshield will clear. At times even the rear window will fog up. What’s up with this?
Paul from Monroe, VA

Paul,
Moisture buildup inside the car is usually the result of a leaking heater core or the result of a plugged A/C condensation drain. The A/C system is always activated (even in winter) in an effort to dehumidify the vehicle’s interior. Get these two areas checked. Success to you.
Tom

Grace,
Some coolant leaks only show up under certain coolant pressure ranges. Get the truck up on a lift and check the underside of the water pump for water tracks. Sounds like its leaking out of the shaft vent hole. If this doesn’t work, then have a dye test performed. During this test, they will install a fluorescent dye in the coolant and shine an ultraviolet light on the engine to find the leak. Good luck.
Tom

Patti,
The EGR Valve is located on the right front side of the engine and is part of the emissions system; it attaches to an EGR adapter plate. If the EGR system is indeed malfunctioning, the EGR passages may require cleaning as well (carbon cleaning). During this procedure, a high-grade carbon cleaner is injected into the engine at the fuel rail while the engine is running. Then the engine is shut off for a time while the cleaner does its magic. The price quoted seems a bit high given the fact that the valve is $213.75 and the labor to replace it is one-half hour at the shop’s labor rate. They might be including a carbon cleaning in that price. Ask the shop if this is the case. If it doe include the carbon cleaning, then the price quoted is within the ballpark. Best to you.
Tom

Dave,
Has anyone done any investigation as to why this phenomenon continues to occur? There has to be a root cause, such as excessive sludge buildup clogging oil feed passages, worn main, rod, or cam bearings, or the engine is worn out and needs replacing. Better find another shop that knows how to diagnose internal engine problems.
Tom

Mayhugh,
There is no such thing as resetting the external temperature sensor. Replace it because it is bad. The sensor is usually located behind the front grill right under the hood latch assembly.
Tom

Karen,
You’re not going to like what I say, but here goes! Tell your husband to stop trying to fix the vehicle himself because he is in way over his head. Get it into a qualified shop for proper diagnostics. Moisture could be getting into an ignition coil resulting in a misfire. Once the engine warms up the moisture evaporates and the miss goes away. To determine which coil is bad (there are 8 coils) you will have to leave your vehicle at a shop overnight so the technician can verify the problem and replace only the bad parts. In addition, the vehicle’s ignition system has to be checked with a scan tool to identify any misfires. This process effectively identifies the cylinder that is missing and allows the tech to dig deeper into the cause of the misfire.
Tom

Hal,
The onboard computer does control the line pressure in the transmission on your car. If the transmission was running high-line, you would also be experiencing very harsh engagement and shifting. Is this the case? Make note next time you drive the vehicle. If it is making a pump noise, but working properly, I would say you have a front pump problem. Better get it back to the shop that did the work and take advantage of the warranty!
Tom

Angela,
Yes, that’s fine. As a matter of fact, during high salt season, take it through the car wash twice a week to wash metal-eating salt out from under the car. I hear Delta Sonic uses fresh water in their car washes, which is ideal for effective car cleaning in wintertime.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘10 Infinity G-37 coupe. The tires were fine until it got cold outside. No the tire pressure monitoring system indicates that the tire pressures are low. The tires look fine to me. What’s up with this?
Delilah from Burlington, VT

Delilah,
Infiniti came out with a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) stating that tire pressures change approximately 0.06 to 1.0 pound for every degree drop in temperature. Have the tire pressures checked. If they are a couple of pounds low, it’s probably due to the temps dropping during winter. Inflate to the proper level and the tires should be fine. If one or more is found to be extremely low (5-10 lbs or more) the tires are leaking due to a hole, leaking valve stem, or rim bead leak and should be repaired and re-inflated to the correct level. Best to you.
Tom

Melinda,
It sounds like there is an issue with the wiring harness to the seats. Check the connectors to the electric motor that drives the seat. It might be short-circuited. As for the seat heaters, check the wiring and connector to the electric heating element. I think you’ll find your problem in the wiring or connectors. Good luck.
Tom

Big Wal,
Yes, the ignition coil could be misfiring, causing the drivability condition you described. However, the best way to track down this gremlin is to conduct a flight test. During this test, the tech hooks a diagnostic computer to the car’s OBDII data port and drives the vehicle while monitoring what’s happening in the data stream. This procedure helps the tech track down the cause, rather than indiscriminately replacing parts hoping to fix it. The cost of diagnostic testing is small compared to the “hit and miss” approach.
Tom

James,
Here’s the procedure as per GM:
• Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
• Fully push and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds
• If the ‘Change Oil Soon’ light flashes, the system is resetting
• Start the vehicle
• The oil life indicator will change to 100%.
• If the ‘Change Oil Soon’ light comes back on, the system has not reset itself. Repeat the procedure.
Good luck!
Tom

Chris,
Make sure the rotors were turned when the brake job was done so that the pads could break in properly. Without a non-directional finish cut on the rotors for proper pad break-in, the pads will not stop the car properly and they will squeal. Also, have the pads checked to make sure they are properly secured to the calipers via the anti rattle clips. When the pads are loose, a high-pitched vibration ensues causing a squeal. Best to you.
Tom

John,
Injector? Injector wire? Third to the right from the front of the car? Three injectors showing? OVEN CLEANER?! What are you talking about, John? It’s obvious by your questions that you have no clue as to what you are doing. Back away from the car and close the hood! Drive to your nearest automotive diagnostician before you hurt yourself and/or the car. First you need to check spark and injector pulse in the cylinder/s that appear to be dead. If spark and injector pulse are present, then you should check compression in that cylinder. If it’s good, then try cleaning the injectors, but only try this procedure AFTER running a few more tests to confirm that the missing cylinder has compression and there are no vacuum leaks. Oven cleaner? Com’on!
Tom

Luke,
The visor is attached to the roof of the vehicle via a small plate with three screw holes through which screws thread into the sheet metal of the roof of the van. These are #2 Phillips screws. Remove them and the whole visor assembly will come down. You can then reach into the visor with a small screwdriver or wire to fish the placard out. Better find a different storage space. Success to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own an ‘04 Chrysler Town & Country and the corners of the hood just above the headlamps are rusting through the paint. The dealer says there is nothing they can do because the paint is warranted for three years. I had the van for three years as of this past April. Is there a recall on this rust problem? I have seen this occur on 2000-03 vans and just noticed it this week on my van.
Darren from Depew NY

Darren,
Unless you can prove that the rust is from inside of the panel, you will get nothing from Chrysler. The position of carmakers is that rust occurs from stone chipping or some other means originating from the outside. No car manufacturer or paint manufacturer will guarantee rust from the exterior chipping of paint. The prognosis? It will only get worst if you don’t get it corrected. And now that you have rust on the exterior of the panel, most body repair shops will not guarantee the rust repair. The most effective method of repair at this point would be to replace the rusted body panel. Success to you.
Tom

Winston,
Most problems encountered with outside temperature readings can be attributed to a faulty outside temperature sensor. This sensor is located directly behind the front grill and gets pummeled with all the rain, snow, ice, bugs, road projectiles and any other debris that finds its way through the front grill. Try unplugging the sensor and then start the car. The temperature reading should read –40 degrees. If it does not, this will verify that the sensor is faulty and should be replaced. If the sensor checks out okay, then trace the wiring for a short. If the wiring checks out, then the gauge inside the cluster is bad and the cluster needs replacing. Good luck.
Tom

Barbara,
This light is a “Maintenance Reminder Light.” The light comes on for two reasons: (1) As a maintenance reminder: You can expect the light to come on every 4,800 miles to let you know you are due for an oil change. (2) The brake pads are worn out. The pads have wear sensors on them and when the pads get down to the point of replacement, the sensors make contact with the rotors which turns on this light.
Tom

Ruben,
The window motor has a plastic tape drive. When the switch is depressed, the motor(which has a gear that is meshed with the tape) moves the window up or down. The reason why the motor continues to run? Because it has to sense resistance from the window seating either in the up or down position to turn off. The tape is broken and doesn’t sense resistance, hence the constant running of the motor. Replace the window motor and your problem will be solved.
Tom

ASH,
Most likely when the engine was washed, some sparkplug wires got soaked, which resulted in cross firing. Try driving the vehicle for about 100 miles to see if the miss goes away. If it doesn’t, get the car into a shop to track down the cause of the misfire.
Tom

Joe,
I hate to burst your dream world, but there is no “Reprogram Procedure” for this problem. A blower resistor regulates the fan motor speed on your van. The resistor steps voltage up and down, resulting in variation of fan speed. When the resistor blows or burns up, then there is only one speed left … high. Replace the blower resistor and you restore multiple fan speeds.
Tom

Linda,
The heater box will need to be disassembled and the blend doors checked out. There could be a duct door stuck in the heater box due to a broken door or shaft, a faulty vacuum motor that controls the door, or vacuum loss to the control box. As for the growling fan motor, have the fan case checked for leaves or organic debris. If the fan case is clear, it could be that the motor shaft bearings are worn and the fan motor needs replacing.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2002 Toyota Highlander with 33,000 miles. A Toyota dealer told me that “it is recommended” that I have the serpentine belt changed and the thuttle box serviced. These are dealer recommended services. My mechanic friend looked at the car and told me not to worry about changing the belt or servicing the thuttle box. In your opinion, when is a good time (number of miles) to change the belt and service the thuttle box? Thanks.
Peanut from San Dimas, CA

Peanut,
Many people hear the words “it is recommended” when they bring their vehicles in for service. This is a buzzword used by the auto service industry. Whenever you hear these words a bright red flag and alarms should go off in your head. You always hear those words used in conjunction with phrases like “engine flush”, “transmission flush,” and other automotive flushing or cleaning services. A simple review of Toyota’s service specs indicates that Toyota has no replacement interval for the serpentine drive belt. It should be inspected for wear every 15,000 miles starting at 60,000 miles, and replaced as necessary. As for servicing the thuttle box, does your Toyota Dealer service surfboards as well as Toyotas? A “Thuttle Box” is part of a special kind of surfboard, not a Toyota Highlander. If your thuttle box needs servicing, take it to a Ron Jon surfboard store for service.
Tom

Mary,
I’ve been preaching this for years! There is no “Transmission Repair Stuff” or “Mechanic-In-A-Can” that will repair a burnt up transmission. From your description of the color and smell of the trans fluid, the transmission is probably toast. The repair stuff” you added swells up the seals in the transmission, which renews internal hydraulic pressure for a short period of time. It stops working after the seals shrink again, hence the reason why it only worked for a short time. Have the vehicle towed to a garage and have them check out the transmission. You are most likely looking at a transmission replacement or rebuild. Sorry for the bad news.
Tom

Rene,
A leaking heater core has to be replaced. ‘Stop Leak’ just clogs the rest of the system up and causes the engine to overheat. Heater core replacement on this truck requires disassembly of the dash to remove the HVAC box where the heater core is housed. In short, it’s a very labor-intensive job that requires experience and special tools. The book calls for five hours to do this job by an experienced technician. You may be “handy” but this job is probably over your head. Bite the bullet and pay to have it done. You’ll be better off in the long run. Good luck.
Tom

Bruce,
Your Grand Prix should have a 4T65E transaxle. You car’s computer controls the line pressure in this transmission, which affects shift firmness/softness. If the transmission is worn out and slipping, the computer compensates by raising the trans line pressure, causing a harsher shift. Test-drive the vehicle with a scan tool attached to the in-vehicle data link connector to monitor transmission data. This will give you more info on what could be causing the problem. It may store a P1811 code in the future. Other causes of harsh shifts are stuck valve in the valve body, plugged trans oil filter, bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), high engine idle, large vacuum leak, and a host of other stuff that needs to be checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Gerald,
If the refrigerant charge is low in the system, then the computer will not allow the compressor to engage because it detects low refrigerant pressure. This is a built-in fail-safe to protect the compressor from running with no refrigerant oil. A garage will need to check the refrigerant level. If the level is low, they will locate the leak, repair it, and recharge the system with refrigerant and oil. If the refrigerant level is okay, then system pressure switches and powers and grounds from the computer will need to be checked for faults. Best to you.
Tom

Ron,
If the vehicle has traction control, it could be detecting a wheel slip to either the wheel actually spinning or (more likely) an antilock wheel speed sensor cutting out. The ABS/Traction Control system could be scanned for trouble codes. If the vehicle doesn’t have traction control, it could be a brake caliper hanging up or a stuck parking brake cable. Either way, you need to give this problem immediate attention. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own an ‘04 Dodge Neon that recently broke down because of a ruptured transmission oil cooler tank in the radiator. I took the car to a transmission shop and they told me that both the radiator and the transmission have to be replaced because the antifreeze and the transmission fluid mixed. Do I have to replace the transmission?! Is this covered under a recall?
Michael from Williamsburg, VA

Michael,
Yes, the transmission must be replaced. When coolant mixes with transmission oil and circulates through the system, the transmission suffers severe damage. Rubber seals swell up and hydraulic pressure is lost, and the coolant dissolves the glue that holds the clutches together inside the transmission. This condition is NOT covered under a recall from Chrysler. Sorry for the bad news. Best to you.
Tom

Karen,
At 330,000 miles it doesn’t surprise me that the engine is starting to exhibit low oil pressure. Bearing and mating surfaces are wearing down. Your question is impossible to answer without internal engine inspection. At the very least, have the crank, oil pump, and oil pan inspected for evidence of internal wear and proceed from there. This process will require removal of the oil pan and measurement of the crankshaft journals and oil pump, as well as an inspection of the oil pan for evidence of metal particles from internal engine wear. However, at such high mileage I can pretty much assure you that the engine should be either rebuilt or replaced with a remanufactured unit. I like the Jasper remanufactured engines; they are high quality and have the best warranty. Good luck.
Tom

Amy,
If you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine you will find the thermostat housing. The housing has two bolts that secure it to the engine. These need to be removed to gain access to the thermostat. When you replace it, make sure you thoroughly clean the housing and gasket-mating surface on the engine. Also, make sure the thermostat is installed right side up (spring down inside the engine) and you’ll be good to go. Success to you.
Tom

Bill,
In order to isolate the problem you must find where the sending unit screws into the engine (usually in a water jacket on the intake manifold). Once you locate the sending unit, disconnect the wire that plugs into it. Then ground the wire while watching the gauge inside the truck. If the gauge goes too hot, the sending unit is defective and must be replaced. If the gauge does not move after grounding the sending unit wire, then there is a problem either with the wiring between the sender and the gauge in the dash, or with the gauge itself. Good luck.
Tom

Cal,
The Ambient Temperature Sensor on your truck is located behind the grill near the hood latch. It has a round, black, two-pin connector with light blue/orange and dark green wires. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the processor inside the truck causing the malfunction. If the sensor replacement does not solve the problem, have diagnostics done of the circuit that feeds that function.
Tom

Richard,
Were the drums resurfaced when the brake job was done? If not, I would pull them off, resurface them, and sand the brake shoes as well. Also, grind the ends of the shoe braking material at a 45-degree angle. That will take the sharp leading edge off the brake shoe and stop the noise.
Tom

Ed,
Have the driveshaft checked for a stiff U-Joint. If it checks out okay, then check the shaft for imbalance. When a ding or dent damages the shaft, it can get knocked out of balance causing a drivetrain vibration. The condition of the molded rubber mount of the carrier bearing doesn’t sound too good either. Get the vehicle up on a lift and have it checked. You’ll get a vibration if that bearing is allowed to jump up and down within its rubber case.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Chevy Silverado extended cab pickup and the battery won’t keep a charge. I had it checked and charged twice this week and it did not start the following day. The shop said there was nothing wrong with the battery. I am selling the truck so I don’t want to spend a lot of money. I’m wondering if it would be all right to put in a rebuilt battery and let the person that buys it deal with the underlying problem.
Chris from Hanford, CT

Chris,
I would suspect a rogue parasitic electrical draw is sapping the life energy out of the battery when the key is off. To track this down, a tech will monitor the battery voltage while eliminating each electrical circuit one at a time until the draw is eliminated (at which point he will have identified the offending circuit). Then the tech will trace it out to find the malady and repair it. Otherwise, you will have to keep a full stock of batteries on hand! As for selling the truck with this problem without telling the buyer? Well that’s your call, Chris. Whatever you can sleep with … but I think you already know my answer.
Tom

Anthony,
Have the vehicle scanned with a hand-held scanner while driving it. That way the tech can see exactly what’s going on when the transmission downshifts prematurely. On this vehicle, the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) figures into shift strategy. If it is dropping out prematurely (either because it is faulty or because it needs an adjustment), then the transmission will respond as you described. Don’t change parts arbitrarily without first getting a diagnosis. It is an expensive way to go. Success to you.
Tom

Alex,
Hummm, raise the hood and find out where the engine noise is coming from. It could be a bad idler pulley, water pump, power steering pump, or alternator. Also, the engine could have a bad internal bearing in which case it will have to be torn down for inspection. At any rate, get it into a shop to be inspected before it breaks down and leaves you stranded! Good luck.
Tom

Shari,
Powertrain includes all components that power the car, IE: engine, turbo or super charger (if equipped), and all related engine parts. Drivetrain relates to the transmission, differential/s, axles, wheels, and anything that drives the car forward. Hope this helps.
Tom

Joseph,
According to the book, the labor for this job is 3.9 hours at the shop’s labor rate. The belt is $63.22. At a labor rate of $84 per hour, that calculates out to: $327.60. I would say that closer to $400 is more realistic (depending on the labor rate of the shop, of course).
Tom

John,
AMSOIL makes a good engine flush product that you can find at www.lubedepot.com. However, be careful! If the sludge buildup is significant then all of it will not be cleaned out and the problem will persist. If this is the case, then the engine must be torn down to remedy the problem. Toyota has an extended warranty on their cars for sludging (they call it “oil gelling”). You did not give the year, make, and model so I can’t be specific. However, if it is a Toyota product, there may be warranty coverage for this condition. Best to you.
Tom

Mary,
These cars are notorious for intake vacuum leaks. Typically, the lower portion of the intake plenum leaks due to a bad gasket. Have an engine vacuum test performed to confirm my suspicions. The reason for the lean readings on both banks O2 sensor? Because excessive oxygen is present in the exhaust flow from the vacuum leak. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘99 Dodge Ram 1500 4×2, 5.9L V8 with 97,000 miles. If the truck sits for more than a week, then the transmission does not engage for a few minutes after I start the vehicle. If I start it and wait a couple of minutes, then it’s fine. There is no problem if I drive the vehicle everyday. What’s wrong?
Josh from Anaheim, CA

Josh,
The condition you describe sounds like ‘torque converter drain back’. Chrysler put out a check valve to install in the cooler lines to prevent the problem. When the vehicle sits for a period of time, the transmission fluid drains out of the converter back into the transmission. The converter must then be primed when starting up the vehicle after it has sat for a while. The check valve installation stops the ‘drain back’ and ensures that fluid prime is there upon startup.
Tom

Debra,
The oil-sending unit on that car is located on the engine just above the oil filter. Before replacing the sending unit, confirm that it does have a leak by installing tracer dye in the oil and using an ultra violet light to find the leak. When you shine the light on the engine, a bright yellow color will show at the point of the leak. Success to you.
Tom

Alex,
According to the ALLDATA database for your car, the vacuum reserve chamber (which you refer to as a ‘bulb’) is located under the hood on the passenger’s side inner fender well. It’s triangular shaped and has one vacuum line going to it. Before changing the vacuum reserve chamber, check for a broken vacuum line under the hood. When major engine vacuum is lost under the hood it affects the HVAC duct system operation. Good luck.
Tom

Audrey,
To program the key, you need to cycle the ignition key from ‘off’ to run four times without starting the vehicle, and ending in the ‘off’ position. Once you have done this you will hear a faint chirp. After the chirp, push any button on the new fob. There will be another chirp when the fob is programmed. Once programmed, cycle the key once (on and off) and you’re done. Best to you.
Tom

Fadi,
Get the van up on a lift and check the sway bar insulator bushings. They are probably crushed and the sway bar is banging against the underside of the vehicle. Chrysler minivans are noted for making noise in the undercarriage when the sway bar bushings go bad. Success to you.
Tom

Marian,
Chrysler issued a TSB on this very issue. Go to your local dealer and ask them to perform TSB #02-004-05
I have outlined the TSB below for you to reference when you go to the dealer.

GROUP: Chassis
DATE: May 27, 2005
SUBJECT: Creaking/Squawking Sound From Front Strut Area
OVERVIEW: Application of lubricant to the jounce bumper of both front struts
MODELS: 2004 – 2005 (CS) Pacifica
2001 – 2005 (RS/RG) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A creaking, squawking, squeaking, grinding, groaning sound from the front strut area while turning in either direction during low speed parking lot maneuvers.

The repair involves applying a special lubricant designed by Chrysler to the jounce bumpers of both struts. I wish you success.
Tom

George,
Check the door hinge pins by opening the door and lifting up on the bottom of the door. If it lifts up, the hinge pins are worn and need replacing. When door hinge pins are worn, the doors do not seal correctly against the body door cavity, allowing water to come into the vehicle. There are few problems with water leaks on these vehicles aside from worn hinge pins and worn weather strips, which tend to be the major cause.
Tom

Cathi,
Regular checkups according to manufacturer’s suggested maintenance schedules are a good practice to follow. Furthermore, new car warranty requires that these schedules be followed to qualify for warranty claims, should the need for warranty repairs arise. They are usually predicated upon mileage intervals. I have this done to monitor the health of my vehicle. You don’t have to buy all the services suggested, and you can get a second opinion before proceeding with a suggested service. Generally, maintenance is cheaper in the long run than dealing with problems as they arise.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
My ’06 Dodge Grand Caravan calls for a tire size of P22560R16. I got a deal on four tires with a size of P22570R16 and the van rides great on these new tires. Can you tell me how the change in tire size affects the speedometer? How do I figure out the actual speed I am traveling?
Rick from Forestville, NY

Rick,
In order to confirm the effect on the speedometer and determine at what speed you are actually traveling, run the car alongside a car that has a certified, calibrated speedometer (police cars quality). When you get to 55 MPH on your speedometer (or any other predetermined speed), find out what speed you are actually going according to the other car’s speedometer. Another way to determine the effect on the speedometer is to put the vehicle on a dynamometer or take it to a certified speedometer specialist, but that would cost a pretty penny. It may be that the “deal” you got on the tires may not be such a great deal after all if the speedometer is way off and you get a speeding ticket! Good luck.
Tom

Frankie,
Definitely do NOT switch to petroleum-based oil. Petroleum oils oxidize when sitting in the pan over extended time. The best oil for infrequent use is one from AMSOIL specifically designed for infrequent use applications. The 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine engine oil has extra rust and corrosion control (marine-rated). This oil will be better suited for the extended time with low mileage application. Even with the AMSOIL I wouldn’t go past two years between oil changes. Also, it’s a good idea to start the truck at least monthly and let it come up to operating temperature to purge the oil of moisture. I might even drive it on an expressway to get the engine up to operating temperature for a half hour or so. Best to you.
Tom

Bruce,
Did the engine builder put a crosshatch pattern into the cylinder walls with a power hone to promote proper ring break in? Were the ring gaps staggered when they were installed? Was the ridge taken off before the pistons were re-installed? If the ridge was left in place, the new rings were probably damaged when the pistons were re-installed in their respective cylinders. Were new valve stem seals installed and the guides replaced or knurled? Was the engine properly broke-in (driven at various speeds for the first 150 miles)? All these items could cause smoking. I suggest re-checking the work. Success to you.
Tom

Alicia,
It all depends on how badly the wheel is bent. A badly bent wheel will result in worn steering and suspension parts and/or a shifted belt in the tire. It could also affect the way the vehicle handles, especially in heavy rain, which you get in Jacksonville. Get the vehicle into a shop for an assessment.
Tom

Kenneth,
It sounds like the transmission shift cable may have broken or fell off the transmission linkage at the case. If the transmission is stuck in reverse then it will not let the engine start because the neutral safety switch disables the starting system for safety purpose (it must be in park or neutral to crank the engine). Have the transmission shift cable checked; that’s where you will find the problem. I wish you success.
Tom

Carol,
The clock spring is an electrical contact between the bottom half of the steering column and the top half. This device completes the circuit for the air bag and horn. If you were to open the steering column, this device would look like a clock spring (hence the name). Call your local dealer and have them run your vehicle’s VIN. You may find that this is under warranty because it is a safety device. I would not take it back to your “friendly mechanic” as he obviously does not know what’s going on with safety restraint systems. Take it to someone who knows what they’re doing because your safety could be at risk.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘98 Honda Accord V6. Every time I get the oil changed, I’m told that an oversized drain plug is needed which is okay because it’s relatively inexpensive. But I’m also told that I should buy a new oil pan, but that costs about $350. Seems to me that there ought to be an easier fix than a new oil plan. Got any ideas?
Melissa from Ft Worth, TX

Melissa,
Apparently, in the past, someone stripped out the threads of the original drain plug, hence the need for the oversized drain plug. The oversized plug cuts new threads in the stripped hole, thus sealing the oil pan drain. If you use a high quality oversized plug with a good gasket then there you don’t need to replace the pan (providing the service personnel are careful not to strip the threads further). The only other solution is to replace the oil pan. Success to you.
Tom

Donna,
The only engine that came in the 2009 Hyundai Elantra was the 2.0 liter DOHC 4 cylinder engine. The engine features Constantly Variable Valve Timing and it generates 138 HP at 6,000 RPM and 136 ft lbs of torque. As a matter of fact, the same powerplant is still used in that vehicle today.
Tom

Chuck,
Your truck requires a 2-wheel alignment. There are no adjustments for the rear. Sometimes the rear differential shifts right or left, throwing the thrust angle off and pushing the vehicle one way or another. Therefore I would get a front wheel alignment. In this type of alignment, all four wheels are measured, then the front is aligned referencing the thrust angle of the rear wheels; that way the truck rolls truly down the road.
Tom

Waddle,
Either the heater core is leaking or the heater hose that feeds into the core through the firewall. The best way to track down the leak is to pressure test the cooling system in an effort to force a coolant leak at the weakest point in the system (which I believe, in your case, is the heater core itself). If the core is leaking, the dash will have to come apart to replace the core. Good luck.
Tom

Grant,
The engine in your truck is a 5.7-liter Hemi. The crankcase capacity is 7.0 quarts. With a high quality oil filter the oil change should cost you about $60. If you use synthetic oil add another $30. For regular oil the recommended interval is 3-5K miles. For synthetic, 5-7K miles. Some folks go longer, depending on what brand of oil is used.
Tom

Dave,
There is no torque converter drain plug on this transmission. If you want to completely exchange the fluid then have it done professionally by a shop with a fluid exchanger. Before a complete fluid exchange, make sure the fluid is red and not dark brown, black, and burned (a sign of that the unit was overheated). If overheated fluid is evidenced, replace only the fluid in the pan along with the filter because a complete fluid exchange on an overheated unit can result in transmission failure. The complete refill capacity is 9 quarts. Good luck.
Tom

Leon,
BMW specifies BMW High Performance Synthetic SAE 5W-30 oil for your wife’s car. The crankcase capacity is 6.5 liters and make sure you use the same quality oil filter specified by BMW. The oil life monitor measures engine oil temperature, moisture content, and combustion chamber events (engine work). By measuring these aspects of engine operation the computer algorithm is able to accurately calculate the oil’s serviceable life. Providing you’re using synthetic oil as specified by BMW, I have no problem with this drain interval, because the normal service table suggests changing the oil every 16,000 miles or according to the oil life monitor. Don’t use anything but oil compatible with the BMW High Performance synthetic oil or it could result in premature engine failure. I wish you success.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I have heard both pros and cons concerning the need for Motorvac service. Please set the record straight. I have a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer with 35,000 miles. It runs fine. Do I really need this expensive service?
Joe from Colorado

Joe,
Carbon buildup in the upper regions of the engine is a fact of life. It’s just the nature of the beast. Varnish deposits from gasoline build up in the fuel delivery system, as well as carbon in the engine (a byproduct of combustion). The varnish inhibits the flow of fuel through the injectors, and the carbon buildup decreases the efficiency of the fuel-burning process. The sensors in the performance system read these changes and the system responds by constantly making adjustments. Regular Motorvac service (every 35-40 thousand miles) prevents these problems. The engine will start crisply on cold mornings, and you will continue to experience snappy acceleration as the car ages, as well as maintain optimal performance and fuel economy. I highly recommend this service.
Tom

Marla,
A few years ago I ran across a company that is of great help in this arena: www.mrwhizard.com. They repair/rebuild digital instrument clusters for a fraction of the cost of a new one. Most rebuilt units cost $189. I followed up with the owner and interviewed him on my national radio show. They are legit and do great work. Success to you.
Tom

Ed,
A dark brown color is an indication that the fluid is burnt. Not good. I would probably just change the filter and re-fill the pan rather than do a complete flush. When a transmission has been overheated, the glue on the back of the internal clutches crystallizes. When a complete flush is performed, the detergent in the new fluid removes the hardened glue from the back of the clutches, separating the friction material from their steel backings and rendering the transmission useless. I have seen this happen time after time. The filter change and pan refill will not affect the unit like a complete fluid exchange. However, it’s your tech’s call. Good luck.
Tom

Barb,
I’m not sure what you mean by the “sniffer test.” Perhaps a four gas analyzer? This procedure will only reveal if there are excessive tailpipe emissions; it will not tell you if there is water in the exhaust. These cars are notorious for intake and head gasket leaks, especially if the car is equipped with Dexcool from the factory. Try a cooling system pressure test to force a leak at the weakest point in the system, which reveals the source of the leak. If you find a pressure loss with no evidence of an external leak, perform a block test. During this test, the tech draws a vial of coolant from the radiator and mixes it with a special chemical to see if it turns color. If it does, that means there is exhaust gas in the cooling system and the engine has a blown head gasket. Another way to track down a coolant leak is to perform a cylinder-leak-down-test. During this test, air pressure is fed into each cylinder and the engine is inspected for pressure loss. If pressure is bleeding into the radiator, then the leak is a head gasket. Finally, a dye test could be performed. During this test the tech will add a fluorescent dye to the coolant, then he will run the engine. Next he will shine an ultraviolet light on the engine, and wherever there is a bright yellow color, there is a leak. Yellow droplets in the exhaust stream indicate a blown head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

VW,
Miami is a great car town with several BMW dealerships and import repair facilities to choose from. I would ask the seller if you could take the car to your garage for a pre-purchase inspection. If they refuse your request, find another car. As for whether or not it is a good purchase? Without seeing the vehicle it is impossible to say. Overall, BMW is a great product both in performance and initial quality, but used conditions can vary depending on how well the vehicle was maintained. A good pre-purchase inspection will reveal all areas of concern. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I saw your article on AOL Autos regarding pre-purchase inspections and it was very helpful. I am thinking of purchasing a ‘73 Chevy P-10 (Original Ice Cream Truck), but it is in rough condition and needs restoration. It has some rust on the axle, brake lines, and leaf springs. The engine and engine block are coated with what looks like years of caked-on oil deposits. It has an aluminum body that is in decent shape visibly. I did not notice any leaks on the ground near or around the vehicle. I want to restore the vehicle for various events, but I don’t have much money. The work would be done the Restoration Company located in New Jersey (the truck is in Connecticut). Do you know a company that could do the type of pre-purchase inspection that you wrote about? Can it be done on location? The restoration company has recommended a compression test. Can this be done on-site? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Paul from Cherry Hill, NJ

Paul,
Any competent repair facility can perform a pre-purchase inspection on this vehicle. All that’s required is a lift and some basic tools. Ideally, you also should have a compression test and a charging system analysis (so you can see if there are any electrically problems). I also recommend an oil pressure test to make sure there are no internal engine problems. The truck probably has point ignition, so a simple tach/dwell meter will reveal any glitches in the ignition system. Also, check the brakes, steering & suspension, and the brake / fuel lines for integrity as these tend to rust over the years. A trained tech, armed with a complete checklist, should be able to give you a good idea as to the vehicle’s integrity before you plunk down the cash-ola for the Good Humor Man’s former ride. Good luck to you.
Tom

Bobbi Ann,
What can I say? Your beloved “Heartbeat of America” has cardiac arrest. The engine has to be removed and either be replaced or rebuilt. I would replace it with a remanufactured engine from a company such as Jasper Engines, so that the new power plant will be just like a new one (and at less cost than rebuilding the old one). As for the tach racing up when you step on the gas, check the transmission fluid. If it’s low, top it off and see if that solves the problem. If the problem is solved then you have a leak that must be repaired. If the fluid is burnt and dark brown or black, the transmission probably needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Your Camaro has given you many years of reliable service, now it’s time to either refurbish it or put it out to pasture. Only you can make that decision. Best to you.
Tom

Rick,
Sounds like the car has a parasitic electrical occurring when the key is off. No, you should not have to turn everything off inside the vehicle when you exit. There is something draining the battery. Have the shop perform an electrical draw test to track down the cause of the drain. During this test, a DVOH (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) is hooked up to the battery. The tech will eliminate each circuit until the draw goes away, identifying the offending circuit. Then he/she will trace the circuit to find the cause of the draw. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.

Dear Tom,

Recently I bought a used Pontiac 2004 Grand Prix as is, with no warranty. I was told the car had no problems. I test-drove the car before buying it and it handled well. Two days later I noticed the lights dimmed when I used the power windows. Also, the temperature gauge dropped while driving. I took it back to the car lot; they checked it and said that it was nothing to worry about and that these cars are known for gauge malfunctions. The next day I lowered the passenger window and now it won’t go back up. Do you think the car might have an electrical problem? If so, how to I handle this situation with the car lot? I spent all my money on the car and can’t afford to repair it. And I don’t expect to, since I just bought it!

Sally from Walla Walla, WA

Sally,

I would run a Carfax report on the car to see if it’s a flood victim. Thousands of cars came out of the Gulf Coast floods as rebuilt flood victims and many end up with electrical problems. Sounds like this could be the case. For the record, these cars are not noted for gauge problems. Just check www.nhtsa.gov and you will see for yourself. After you run a Carfax report, approach the car let owner in a non-accusatory manner and try to come to a solution. Either they can replace the car if you find out it is a flood victim, or they can repair it free of charge if nothing comes up in the report. Good luck.
Tom

I replaced the battery in my 2002 Saturn L300 in September 2007. I replaced it again in April 2008 and again last month! The AAA technician told me that something is draining the battery.  He told me that I would need another one within six months if I don’t find and repair the problem. I had the alternator checked and it’s okay. What else could cause a drain on the battery?

Barbara from Reno, NV

Barbara,
Find a shop that specializes in electrical repairs and have them perform a parasitic electrical draw test. The tech will hook up a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to the battery and monitors voltage (while eliminating one circuit at a time) until he find the source of the draw. Draws can happen from a faulty electrical component, shorted switch, or grounded hot wire. Repairs of this nature are charged on a time and material basis. Once again, find a shop that specializes in this type of repair. Experienced techs know exactly to find these gremlins. Success to you.
Tom

I own a GMC pickup 1500 series that won’t start in cold damp weather. When it’s dry outside the truck runs fine; it only happens when it’s rainy. Any suggestions?

Ed from Buffalo, NY

Ed,
Repairs of this nature are difficult because you have to replicate the condition. Try spraying down the engine compartment with water, and then try to track down the cause. Electrical maladies of this nature are usually tracked to a poor electrical connection in the ignition system or bad sparkplug wires. Try to follow this procedure in the dark. That way, if the wires are leaking voltage, it will show up as a light show from the arching sparkplug wires. Good luck.

Tom

I own a ‘98 Lexus LS 400 with 190,000 miles. For the last year, I have spent $1,500 on the front end.  First I got the struts changed, then the ball joint and the arm, and then the bushings that are on the top of the struts. When the car goes over a bump at 20mph or over a dip at 55 mph, the front end makes a clicking sound. At the lower speeds (depending on which way I am turning) only one side or the other clicks. However, on the freeway going 55mph both right and left sides click at the same time. My theory is that the replacement struts are too weak (Monroe struts) for this car. The mechanic who replaced the struts with a lifetime warranty doesn’t want to replace the carriage springs.

Dhaval from San Jose, CA

Dhaval,
Have the engine mounts and cradle bolts checked. It sounds like the noise occurs when the powertrain shifts. An engine mount or cradle mount could cause this condition. If all checks out, have a set of “Chassis Ears” installed on the body at the location where you think the noise is emanating. They are a set of small microphones that are attached to a set of headphones. They allow the tech to listen to the noise while driving the car. “Chassis Ears” are very helpful in tracking down tough noises. Best to you.

Tom

I own a ‘93 Toyota Camry and the air conditioning is on the fritz.  My mechanic told me that it would cost around $2,500 to repair it. I am a 70-year-old woman who seems to get ripped off every time I need car repair work. Does this figure seem about right? Thank you for your help.

Nan from Port Ritchie, FL

Nan,

Get a second opinion. I have seen A/C repair run that high, but you didn’t tell me what they are doing for that money. Compressor replacement? Condenser replacement? Dryer? Evaporator core? Retro fit? There are many aspects to air conditioning repair, so get a second opinion from a high quality shop. If you’re not sure where to find a shop, call AAA and ask for one that specializes in HVAC repairs in your area.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site:  www.americascarshow.com

We are asked this question quite often. Why do you think we ask our customers to take this additional step? 

Two reasons:

An inspection protects you as well as Warranty Direct

We are in the business of paying claims and not denying them due to “pre-existing conditions”. Denying claims due to pre-existing conditions is a favorite pastime of many warranty companies. If you do a few Internet searches, you’ll see that to be true.

Here’s what you find in warranty contracts that don’t require inspections:

‘We will not cover the repair/replacement of a covered part to correct conditions that may reasonably assumed to have existed at the inception date of the coverage provided under this contract”

Whose reasonable assumption would be used here?

When Warranty Direct inspects your vehicle, we are then both agreeing that your vehicle is in good working order. Of the hundreds of inspections our customers have performed each month, over 94% of the vehicles pass inspection. The others simply have the needed repairs made and then coverage is initiated.