Dear Tom,
I saw your article on AOL Autos regarding pre-purchase inspections and it was very helpful. I am thinking of purchasing a ‘73 Chevy P-10 (Original Ice Cream Truck), but it is in rough condition and needs restoration. It has some rust on the axle, brake lines, and leaf springs. The engine and engine block are coated with what looks like years of caked-on oil deposits. It has an aluminum body that is in decent shape visibly. I did not notice any leaks on the ground near or around the vehicle. I want to restore the vehicle for various events, but I don’t have much money. The work would be done the Restoration Company located in New Jersey (the truck is in Connecticut). Do you know a company that could do the type of pre-purchase inspection that you wrote about? Can it be done on location? The restoration company has recommended a compression test. Can this be done on-site? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Paul from Cherry Hill, NJ

Paul,
Any competent repair facility can perform a pre-purchase inspection on this vehicle. All that’s required is a lift and some basic tools. Ideally, you also should have a compression test and a charging system analysis (so you can see if there are any electrically problems). I also recommend an oil pressure test to make sure there are no internal engine problems. The truck probably has point ignition, so a simple tach/dwell meter will reveal any glitches in the ignition system. Also, check the brakes, steering & suspension, and the brake / fuel lines for integrity as these tend to rust over the years. A trained tech, armed with a complete checklist, should be able to give you a good idea as to the vehicle’s integrity before you plunk down the cash-ola for the Good Humor Man’s former ride. Good luck to you.
Tom

Bobbi Ann,
What can I say? Your beloved “Heartbeat of America” has cardiac arrest. The engine has to be removed and either be replaced or rebuilt. I would replace it with a remanufactured engine from a company such as Jasper Engines, so that the new power plant will be just like a new one (and at less cost than rebuilding the old one). As for the tach racing up when you step on the gas, check the transmission fluid. If it’s low, top it off and see if that solves the problem. If the problem is solved then you have a leak that must be repaired. If the fluid is burnt and dark brown or black, the transmission probably needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Your Camaro has given you many years of reliable service, now it’s time to either refurbish it or put it out to pasture. Only you can make that decision. Best to you.
Tom

Rick,
Sounds like the car has a parasitic electrical occurring when the key is off. No, you should not have to turn everything off inside the vehicle when you exit. There is something draining the battery. Have the shop perform an electrical draw test to track down the cause of the drain. During this test, a DVOH (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) is hooked up to the battery. The tech will eliminate each circuit until the draw goes away, identifying the offending circuit. Then he/she will trace the circuit to find the cause of the draw. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.

Dear Tom,

Recently I bought a used Pontiac 2004 Grand Prix as is, with no warranty. I was told the car had no problems. I test-drove the car before buying it and it handled well. Two days later I noticed the lights dimmed when I used the power windows. Also, the temperature gauge dropped while driving. I took it back to the car lot; they checked it and said that it was nothing to worry about and that these cars are known for gauge malfunctions. The next day I lowered the passenger window and now it won’t go back up. Do you think the car might have an electrical problem? If so, how to I handle this situation with the car lot? I spent all my money on the car and can’t afford to repair it. And I don’t expect to, since I just bought it!

Sally from Walla Walla, WA

Sally,

I would run a Carfax report on the car to see if it’s a flood victim. Thousands of cars came out of the Gulf Coast floods as rebuilt flood victims and many end up with electrical problems. Sounds like this could be the case. For the record, these cars are not noted for gauge problems. Just check www.nhtsa.gov and you will see for yourself. After you run a Carfax report, approach the car let owner in a non-accusatory manner and try to come to a solution. Either they can replace the car if you find out it is a flood victim, or they can repair it free of charge if nothing comes up in the report. Good luck.
Tom

I replaced the battery in my 2002 Saturn L300 in September 2007. I replaced it again in April 2008 and again last month! The AAA technician told me that something is draining the battery.  He told me that I would need another one within six months if I don’t find and repair the problem. I had the alternator checked and it’s okay. What else could cause a drain on the battery?

Barbara from Reno, NV

Barbara,
Find a shop that specializes in electrical repairs and have them perform a parasitic electrical draw test. The tech will hook up a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to the battery and monitors voltage (while eliminating one circuit at a time) until he find the source of the draw. Draws can happen from a faulty electrical component, shorted switch, or grounded hot wire. Repairs of this nature are charged on a time and material basis. Once again, find a shop that specializes in this type of repair. Experienced techs know exactly to find these gremlins. Success to you.
Tom

I own a GMC pickup 1500 series that won’t start in cold damp weather. When it’s dry outside the truck runs fine; it only happens when it’s rainy. Any suggestions?

Ed from Buffalo, NY

Ed,
Repairs of this nature are difficult because you have to replicate the condition. Try spraying down the engine compartment with water, and then try to track down the cause. Electrical maladies of this nature are usually tracked to a poor electrical connection in the ignition system or bad sparkplug wires. Try to follow this procedure in the dark. That way, if the wires are leaking voltage, it will show up as a light show from the arching sparkplug wires. Good luck.

Tom

I own a ‘98 Lexus LS 400 with 190,000 miles. For the last year, I have spent $1,500 on the front end.  First I got the struts changed, then the ball joint and the arm, and then the bushings that are on the top of the struts. When the car goes over a bump at 20mph or over a dip at 55 mph, the front end makes a clicking sound. At the lower speeds (depending on which way I am turning) only one side or the other clicks. However, on the freeway going 55mph both right and left sides click at the same time. My theory is that the replacement struts are too weak (Monroe struts) for this car. The mechanic who replaced the struts with a lifetime warranty doesn’t want to replace the carriage springs.

Dhaval from San Jose, CA

Dhaval,
Have the engine mounts and cradle bolts checked. It sounds like the noise occurs when the powertrain shifts. An engine mount or cradle mount could cause this condition. If all checks out, have a set of “Chassis Ears” installed on the body at the location where you think the noise is emanating. They are a set of small microphones that are attached to a set of headphones. They allow the tech to listen to the noise while driving the car. “Chassis Ears” are very helpful in tracking down tough noises. Best to you.

Tom

I own a ‘93 Toyota Camry and the air conditioning is on the fritz.  My mechanic told me that it would cost around $2,500 to repair it. I am a 70-year-old woman who seems to get ripped off every time I need car repair work. Does this figure seem about right? Thank you for your help.

Nan from Port Ritchie, FL

Nan,

Get a second opinion. I have seen A/C repair run that high, but you didn’t tell me what they are doing for that money. Compressor replacement? Condenser replacement? Dryer? Evaporator core? Retro fit? There are many aspects to air conditioning repair, so get a second opinion from a high quality shop. If you’re not sure where to find a shop, call AAA and ask for one that specializes in HVAC repairs in your area.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site:  www.americascarshow.com

We are asked this question quite often. Why do you think we ask our customers to take this additional step? 

Two reasons:

An inspection protects you as well as Warranty Direct

We are in the business of paying claims and not denying them due to “pre-existing conditions”. Denying claims due to pre-existing conditions is a favorite pastime of many warranty companies. If you do a few Internet searches, you’ll see that to be true.

Here’s what you find in warranty contracts that don’t require inspections:

‘We will not cover the repair/replacement of a covered part to correct conditions that may reasonably assumed to have existed at the inception date of the coverage provided under this contract”

Whose reasonable assumption would be used here?

When Warranty Direct inspects your vehicle, we are then both agreeing that your vehicle is in good working order. Of the hundreds of inspections our customers have performed each month, over 94% of the vehicles pass inspection. The others simply have the needed repairs made and then coverage is initiated.