When is the best time to look for a high quality auto repair shop? Answer, before you need one. Making a sound decision is difficult when you are faced with a car problem and time restraints. Also, emergencies create an emotional climate that thwarts a clear and objective evaluation. Finding a shop takes time and patience; you want to research and evaluate the facts. So find a repair facility before you need one.

The process of evaluating repair shops is really quite simple. Call or visit shops in your area. The best time to call or visit is between 9A – noon because it is after the morning rush and cars are in the bays being evaluated. By noon the techs have completed their diagnoses, come up with an estimate of repairs, and customers are being called to discuss the necessary repair work. Thus, 9A – noon is lag time for the owner/shop manager. Catch them any other time and you might find them curt.

Once you have the owner/shop manager’s undivided attention, tell them you are looking for a repair shop. Ask them what professional automotive repair associations they belong to. Membership in associations such as AAA (AAA Approved Auto Repair), iATN (International Auto Technicians Association), ASA (Automotive Service Association), or TechNet (Carquest Technician’s Network) means the shop and/or technicians care about their level of expertise and have met the standards of membership. In addition, look for membership in such associations as the BBB (Better Business Bureau), SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), ASP (Automotive Service Professionals), and ICAR (Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair). Involvement in these organizations tells you that the owner of the repair facility is interested in the quality of the workmanship, and most likely operates by a code of ethics expected by the organization. In addition, membership in these associations often requires that the shop subject itself to an arbitration process that is binding, should the need for arbitration between customer and shop arise.

To further make this point, consider the following: To become an “AAA Approved Auto Repair Facility,” a shop must undergo a rigorous investigation. In addition to having state-of-the-art equipment, training, qualified technicians, and information systems in place, the shop must score high with its customers. AAA contacts roughly 100 of the shop’s most recent customers and conducts a CSI (Consumer Satisfaction Index) study (the number varies from club to club but it represents a significant number of the shop’s most recent customer base). They ask the customers questions such as:

• Was the estimated bill the same or close to the actual bill?
• Was the job done on time?
• Did they fix it right the first time?
• What kind of warranty did they give you?
• Was the shop clean and presentable?
• Did they offer a ride to work or somewhere you needed to go?
• Was there a comfortable, pleasant, and clean waiting area?

If the repair facility meets their standards, it is granted membership and they can hang the “AAA Approved” shingle. Membership in such an associations is a significant qualifier when evaluating a facility.

While visiting the shop(s) you’re interested in, note whether they are clean and orderly. Ask their customers, “Why do you do business with this shop?” Some answers don’t hold much credibility, such as: “They are the cheapest.” “They offer a lot of specials.” “Because the owner is a friend of my father’s.” Look for responses such as: “They fix my car right the first time.” “I can trust them to do the job at a fair price.” “No surprises when I pick up the car.” “The price is always what we agree on.” “They welcome my questions and concerns and take the time to answer them.” “They explain in plain English what the problem is and what my options are.” “Their technicians are the best in the area.” Good “word of mouth” is a great qualifier.

While at the facility, look for technician certifications displayed on the wall. If the walls are bare, ask to see the techs’ certifications. This will tell you a lot about the people that work at the facility. What shingles and certifications should you look for?

• Certification from ASE, ACDelco, ASP, and/or manufacturers such as GM, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan
• Aftermarket training from such leaders as NAPA/Echlin, Moog, Carquest, TRW, ACDelco, or Bendix
• Continued education from a technical training college

These shingles are evidence that the technicians have taken the initiative to “go beyond the call of duty” and keep up with changes in their field. Not only are they trained in the latest technology, but they also show a serious interest and pride in their work. Continued education/certifications also convey that the owner of the shop cares about the quality of the work because usually he/she is the one who foots the bill for any extended training.

Another factor to consider when choosing a repair facility is the equipment and repair information systems available. Does the shop have state-of-the-art equipment such as hand-held computer scanners and diagnostic software, digital volt-ohm meters, logic probes, lab scopes, and on-line repair information systems like Alldata, or Mitchell-On-Demand? Don’t be afraid to ask if they have these resources. Up-to-date information systems and tools are necessary to diagnose and repair your hi-tech car accurately. Without them, fixing your automobile is a hit-and-miss proposition that you pay dearly for, in both dollars and vehicle down time.

A note about shop size: Some people think that because a shop is either smaller or larger, the price will vary greatly. That’s not true these days. With the high cost of equipment, training, and information systems, prices between dealers and large or small independent shops have balanced out. As a matter of fact, in a lot of cases we’ve seen the larger entities (dealers and larger repair facilities) actually offer more competitive pricing than the ‘little guys’ in an effort to gain more retail customer business. If the criteria we have discussed are in place, and the quality of the parts and warranties are equal, most likely the pricing will be close. At that point, it’s just a matter of where you feel most comfortable.

Finally, a note about doing a shop search and scanning reviews online at sites like Yelp, RepairPal, or through a subscription service like Angie’s List. These reviews are from laypeople who (in most cases) have no clue on how to evaluate an auto repair shop; therefore the evaluations don’t hold water. Yes, they may tell you about how they were treated and how they “felt” at the shop, but a hard-nosed evaluation based on the facts discussed in this article should be the basis for your decision when choosing an automotive repair facility.

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 Toyota 2.4L. Is there a magic 75,000-mile event that requires the expensive replacement of timing belts and chains or the engine will self-destruct? I hear stories to this effect, and my Toyota dealer hedged the question. Help!
Monica from Peoria, IL

Monica,
Your car has a timing chain, therefore there’s no timing belt to worry about. The chain should last the life of the engine. Earlier Camry’s (’01 and ’02) with the 2.2 liter engine had a timing belt. However, in 2002 Toyota did away with the 2.2 and started using a 2.4 liter engine that uses a timing chain, which does not require regular change intervals, as does the engine with the timing belt. Tell whoever is scaring you with these oldwife’s tales that he/she knows not of what they speak and to stifle themselves!
Tom

Angelita,
I checked my ALLDATA database and the manufacturer states that 5W30 synthetic motor oil is required for that car, so return the case of cheap straight 30-weight oil. If you use straight 30-weight you are asking for engine trouble. However, the thing that concerns me most is the fact that you have to add 2-3 quarts of oil between changes. This is too much oil consumption. Given the year and model of your vehicle, you may still be within factory warranty. I would call your local dealer and give them your car’s VIN and mileage to see if you are still under warranty coverage. Best to you.
Tom

Sal,
I would change the oil and filter now, and then change it according to the OLM (Oil Life Monitor) thereafter. Make sure you use only 5W30 motor oil with the “dexos” designation. This is the only acceptable motor oil for use in this engine as per GM. Using another oil will result in loss of factory warranty coverage in the event of an engine failure. Success to you.
Tom

Dave,
This car is pretty much trouble free. Aside from a few minor glitches with wipers smearing and a few engine trouble codes due to a need for software updates to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) the vehicle platform seems to be trouble free. With proper maintenance according to factory specs (following the severe service schedule) you should get many years out of this little gem.
Tom

Jackie,
That car has one of two manual transaxles offered by the carmaker. Each transaxle has shift cables that are adjustable. If the cables are properly adjusted, the problem lies within the transmission. It could be in the form of bad synchronizer or blocker rings. These are devices that shift the gears inside the trans when you manipulate the gear shifter inside the vehicle. I would say the problem lies either in a maladjusted shift cable or syncro or blocker ring, or a shifter fork problem, and NOT a clutch. If it were a clutch problem, it would be evident in all gears. Go to a transmission expert for this repair. Good luck.
Tom

Butch,
Your truck is equipped with an oil life monitor. This system measures when to change the oil based on three criteria: crankcase temperature, combustion chamber events (work the engine does), and moisture in the system. The system is accurate to within (+) or (– ) 5% of oil life. Just make sure the system is reset every time you change the oil and always use the oil that GM recommends or a better oil. Follow the dictates of the OLM and you will not go wrong. Success to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Have you ever gone to a quick lube place for an oil change and, while you’re waiting in the lobby for your car, the service bay/sales person informs you that a certain service(s) must be performed on the vehicle immediately to avert a disaster of immense proportion? Many of us can relate to this scenario. The “recommended service” they advise usually includes one or more of the following:

• High mileage oil

• Fuel system cleaning

• Brake fluid flush

• Transmission flush

• Transfer case or differential fluid change

Usually their advice takes the form of an urgent plea, concerned that something dire will happen if you don’t have the service done. What do you do? How do you handle this situation? Knowledge is power; power gives confidence to make the right decisions. So let’s look at each service, the validity of the claim, and whether or not you should follow the advice.

Does Your Vehicle Need High Mileage Oil?

High mileage oils supposedly are formulated with more robust additive packages for better lubrication and rust inhibition, along with a nourishing agent to bring old, hardened oil seals back to life. Well, if that’s true, why didn’t the company initially give me their best formulation so that my car would get more mileage out of the engine in the first place?! Ha! Not being an expert in lubrication and petroleum products, I consulted an expert in the industry to gather more information. Dan Watson, a Certified Lubrication Specialist (STLE) and publisher of www.lubedepot.com and www.maxtorque.com (an E-Zine about diesel power) sent me some bullet points to consider when offered “high mileage oil.”

• High mileage oils are fortified with additional additives for improving the ability of the oil to deal with byproducts of combustion and enhance engine cleanliness.

• Why not make all oils with robust additive packages? (My point exactly) Engines would stay cleaner and be better protected with the stronger additive package from the start.

• The age of the engine has nothing to do with the protection needed to maintain the engine and prevent wear.

• The best procedure is to start out with oil that doesn’t break down and leave sludge and varnish in the engine.

• Start the engine out using high quality synthetic engine oil and you will have superior protection and cleanliness from the start. You will never need a “better oil” when you get to a higher mileage.

• It is important to note all synthetic oils are not the same and some synthetics use virtually the same additive package as the low quality petroleum oils.

• Look for synthetic oils like AMSOIL or Mobil One; these oils have extremely robust additive packages designed for longer drain intervals. This insures you are getting highly additive-ized oil that provides maximum protection and superior cleanliness regardless of vehicle mileage.

Excellent points. Feel free to send Dan your oil and lubrication questions at danwatson@thelubepage.com.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Fuel System Cleaning?

It may come as a surprise to you, but fuel system cleaning isn’t addressed directly in maintenance schedules. I checked six specific year, make, and model vehicles in the ALLDATA database and I came up with only one reference regarding fuel delivery system inspection; and two others, one referencing fuel filter replacement and one referencing fuel line inspection. So this is a gray area. I can tell you that fuel flow creates varnish deposits and that inefficient combustion from worn sparkplugs and wires causes carbon buildup within the engine. Over time, the injectors get clogged with varnish deposits or dirt that’s picked up in the fuel. When this happens, the injectors dribble fuel into the combustion chamber rather than deliver a fine mist of air/fuel mixture for perfect combustion. I can also tell you that chemical companies that develop fuel system cleaning chemicals recommend a complete fuel system cleaning every 30K – 40K miles. Finally, as an automotive machinist, I have seen many cylinder heads and pistons loaded with carbon buildup from inefficient combustion that resulted in lean burn conditions, and thus inefficient and/or damaged engines. All this I know to be true. In addition, I can tell you that fuel additives to the fuel tank alone cannot keep a fuel system clean. During the fuel delivery system cleaning process, industrial strength carbon and varnish cleaners are injected directly into the fuel delivery system while the engine is running. The problem I have with following the recommendation to have this service done at a quick lube is that they “recommend” the service almost every time you stop in for an oil change. Also, I question the quality of the fuel system service they offer. In order for this service to work effectively, they must use a special machine and a specific set of tools, as well as an industrial grade carbon and varnish cleaner. Such equipment, found in high quality repair facilities or dealerships, are often not available at quick lubes. Don’t get me wrong; quick lubes have their place in automotive service. However, I think they are out of their league in this area of service.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Brake Fluid Flush?

Brake fluid flushing is a viable service that should be done if there is rust and sediment in the brake master cylinder. After researching several year, make, and model vehicles in the ALLDATA database, I realized that this is not a recommended service from the manufacturer. At best, carmakers suggest an inspection of the braking system at regular intervals (every 6K miles or so) that includes inspection of the brake fluid along with the rest of the system. The hydraulic braking system is designed as a closed and sealed system. When it is exposed to the atmosphere because of a broken seal or hydraulic cup, the system will draw moisture into itself because of the hydroscopic (moisture absorbing) nature of the brake fluid. So a simple inspection of the brake fluid is all that is required. When checking brake fluid, look for proper level, color, and smell. Brake fluid that is clear/translucent in color, at the proper level, with no evidence of a burnt smell, indicates a healthy braking system. If the color is black or rust-colored, there is a problem. Simple flushing will not repair the root cause of the condition. A dark or black color accompanied by a burnt smell is indication that the system has overheated. There are three causes of overheating: A stuck brake caliper, a seized emergency brake, or a contaminated wheel cylinder that causes a brake shoe to stick in the applied position. A rust-colored fluid indicates that moisture has entered the system, and therefore the system should be checked for a leaking component, a compromised line, or a torn master cylinder gasket. Brake fluid flushing alone without an inspection and/or repair of the root cause of the discolored fluid is not a repair. It is like a band-aid on a compound fracture. I do not recommend regular brake fluid flushing. It is simply not necessary unless a problem with color, level, or smell of the brake fluid is observed.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Transmission Fluid Flush?

As a regular maintenance practice (every 35 – 40K miles) transmission flushing can ensure proper operation and longevity of the transmission. Any more that 35 – 40K miles is overkill. Some carmakers suggest this service every 100K miles or more. However I don’t agree with this timeframe because transmission fluid is oil, and oil breaks down over time (especially when the unit is worked hard). In addition, I don’t agree with just flushing the fluid without replacing the transmission filter. During the flush procedure, if the old filter is left in place, dirt and wear material will be dislodged and go back into the transmission. Dirt is flowing through the unit and contaminating it again. In addition, a worn, dirty filter is expected to do the job it once did when it was new! So when flushing transmission fluid, always replace the filter. Period. On transmissions with high mileage that have a history of being neglected (have not been serviced for many thousands of miles and the fluid is dark and smells burnt, which is evidence of overheating) I do not recommend a transmission flush. On a transmission that has been overheated, internal damage might have occurred. If this is the case, when the transmission is subjected to a complete bath of fresh high-detergency transmission fluid, the transmission will fail internally. Specifically, clutches separate from their backings, rendering the unit useless. If you have a high mileage vehicle and the quick lube shop has recommended a fluid flush, get a second opinion from a drivetrain expert before proceeding… or pay the consequences.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Transfer Case or Differential Fluid Change?

Transfer cases are very quirky units. When the fluid is compromised in any way from overheating or moisture contamination they can malfunction. Symptoms of a malfunction include chatter, engaging and disengaging rapidly while in gear, slow to engage from low to high range, and a host of other strange maladies. I have actually seen TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) where carmakers consult with petroleum companies to come up with a fix for a transfer case problem by virtue of a fluid reformulation. Also, different carmakers use different fluids for their respective transfer cases. Each fluid is uniquely formulated for the respective transfer case application. This is an area of service that I would never leave to a quick lube, but rather to a drivetrain specialist or a dealership. There is simply too much room for error when it comes to filling the unit with the wrong fluid. Differentials also vary in the types of fluids they use. Leave fluid maintenance of these units to the experts!

I hope this clarifies any concerns or questions you might have before heading out to your local quick lube. Remember, knowledge is empowering, and in this case, can save you a lot of time and money (and that’s probably why you are going to the quick lube in the first place).

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I’d like to “swap-out” the Halogen headlights on my 2008 Chrysler T & C for a HID kit. The HID kits come in different brightness values. Are these kits legal for use in New York State? Also, do ceramic disc brake pads make the brake rotors wear out faster than semi-metallic brake pads?
Rick from Sarasota, FL

Rick,
The best place to ask what headlight intensities are legal in NYS is the NYS Dept of Motor Vehicles. I am not sure what the law states; they will know. As for ceramic brake pads, they dissipate heat better, wear less, create no brake dust, are quieter, and are less taxing on rotors than semi-metallic brake pads. In short, a far superior braking product compared to semi-metallics. Buy them and enjoy them. Just make sure you resurface the rotors before installing the new pads. Success to you.
Tom

Jane,
Have the engine scanned for codes. It sounds like the vehicle could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor dumping raw fuel into the engine, a faulty injector driver, or a bad PCM (Power Control Module). Please don’t start replacing parts. Have the proper diagnostics performed to identify the problem and then proceed with the repairs. Otherwise, you could waste a lot of time and money. Success to you.
Tom

Barbara,
I would go through my maintenance records to see what exactly has been done in recent months to determine what could have happened. It’s possible that the engine suffered from oil gelling that caused lubrication starvation. Toyota extended engine warranties on their engines for this problem a few years back. Ask your dealer about this possibility. Also, it sounds to me like the vehicle might have had a bad water pump and all the coolant leaked out, which caused the engine to overheat followed by a blown head gasket. This, in turn, caused engine coolant to mix with the engine oil, causing the bearings to fail and thus catastrophic failure of the engine. Good luck to you.
Tom

Gary,
The circuits that feed or operate the cluster will need to be tested. Sometimes there is a bad power or ground connection at the plug, or a faulty circuit board. If these connections and circuits test okay, then the problem is in the printed circuit of the cluster. This will require either replacement or repair of the cluster. There is a company online called www.mrwhizard.com. This company specializes in repairing digital instrument clusters. You simply send them your old cluster and they either repair it or sent you a newly rebuilt one. It’s a great service and much less cost than a new cluster. Good luck!
Tom

Dustin,
I checked my ALLDATA database and there’s a TSB regarding this condition, Apparently there’s a software update from GM. Take it to your dealer for this update; it should solve your problem. In addition, I suggest having the ABS computer scanned for codes, and check the wheel speed sensors, electrical plugs, and wiring harness for cracked or broken insulation. All these faults could cause these symptoms. The TSB number from GM is Bulletin #: 09-05-25-001.
Tom

Ellie,
First, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge and verify that the oil pressure is really low. If the oil pressure is up to specs, then identify which valve tappet is making noise and open up the valve cover/s to have a look at the valvetrain. This process will allow the tech to get a better grip on what’s happening with the valvetrain and what it will cost to fix. I wish you success.
Tom

Craig,
Seal replacement could stop the leaks. However, if the crank journals are worn then the leak will continue. With this kind of mileage, I think you’re looking at a power plant replacement. Have the crank journals, and rod & main bearings inspected along with the oil pump before proceeding with seal replacement (which would require removing the engine). It may be wise at this stage to replace the engine with a rebuilt unit. I recommend the Jasper replacement engines because they come with the best warranties and are high quality remanufactured units.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

The 3,000-mile oil change has gone the way of the dinosaur. What do I base this statement on given my staunch support of the 3,000-mile oil change for so many years? Today oils and lubricants are so much better compared to several years ago. Under normal driving conditions, viscosity breakdown (viscosity is the oil’s ability to flow and lubricate) usually occurred at about 3,000 miles. The elements that cause deterioration of oil are heat, friction, chemical contamination, and oxidation. In recent years the petroleum companies, working hand-in-hand with carmakers, have developed stronger additive packages that address these factors. Today, oil is tougher and holds up much better under the rigors of the internal combustion engine environment.

Additionally, leaders in synthetic oil development like AMSOIL and Mobil One have come up with “super oils” in their full and semi-synthetic oil products.

Game Changer

About ten years ago GM introduced their OLM (Oil Life Monitor). This was a game changer for the industry. Essentially, GM told their customers to simply follow the dictates of the oil life monitor light on the dashboard to decide when to change the oil. Auto service departments across the nation raised a brouhaha that resonated in Automotive Heaven! Follow the dictates of a light? “Absurd” they cried! How can the vehicle itself know when to change the oil? Based on what? Ludicrous!

A few years later, Ford issued revised oil change drain interval recommendations: Every 7,500 miles for normal service, and 5,000 miles for severe service.

Again, traditionalists cried “Outrageous!” “Ridiculous!”

Cry as they may, I think that the “proof is in the pudding.” How credible are the extended drain interval recommendations? How about this for credibility: The carmakers stand behind their warranty if a vehicle comes into the dealership with a failed engine and the owner/operator shows proof of regular oil change intervals according to factory-recommended extended oil drain intervals. End of story.

I think it would be wise to explain the GM OLM so that you understand how the system works, and consequently you will know you can trust it.

What is the GM OLM?

The GM OLM (Oil Life Monitor) is a system designed to calculate remaining oil life in your car’s engine. The system is based on a computer algorithm that measures the serviceable oil life based on three criteria: crankcase temperature, combustion chamber events (work the engine does), and moisture (which is affected by environmental as well as internal temps and conditions). These three elements are what determine engine oil life. The system is able to calculate the serviceable engine oil life to within (+) or (-) 5 percent.

Can I trust the GM OLM?

Yes, GM engineers have tested the OLM extensively in both laboratory and real world settings since 1984. As a matter of fact, GM has so much faith in the OLM system that they have issued a new “Simplified Maintenance Schedule.” Simply stated regarding oil changes, you follow the dictates of the OLM light.

The following is a quote from Peter Lord, the executive director of GM Service Operations:
“Customers don’t have to worry about deciding when it’s the best time to change their engine oil because our Oil Life System technology adapts to their driving conditions and habits, and determines the right interval. Since the new maintenance schedule is based on oil change intervals determined by this technology, customers can save time and cost.”

Finally, in the event that you file a warranty claim for the engine, the dealer will be able to determine that the oil changes were done according to the dictates of the OLM and therefore will be able to exonerate you from any denial of a warranty claim.

What are some benefits of the GM OLM?

Use of the GM OLM will often double or even triple the oil change interval for a typical vehicle when compared to the 3,000-mile oil change. The GM OLM will automatically adjust the oil change interval based on engine characteristics, driving habits, and the climate/environment in which the vehicle is operated.
For instance, mild highway driving in a warm climate will maximize the interval between oil changes. Depending on the vehicle, this could be in excess of 7,000 miles and as high as 12,000 miles (in some models). On the other hand, short trip driving in a cold climate may limit the oil change to 3,000 miles or less. In general, most people that drive a combination of city and highway find that the GM OLM will indicate an oil change every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. GM data shows the OLM extends oil change intervals without risks to the engine, saving you money in oil changes.

Savings realized using extended drain intervals

Say you drive 20,000 miles a year, which is above average. If you change oil according to the old recommendation of every 3,000 miles, you will spend on average of $210.00 annually for oil changes (based on $35.00 per oil change for regular oil). Following the extended drain interval for normal service recommendations for Ford at 7500 miles, you can expect to save $116.55 over a year. If you follow the dictates of GM’s OLM, which comes out to approx every 6,000 miles, you can expect to save $93.45 annually.

Synthetic Motor Oil

Synthetic motor oil was first introduced by AMSOIL corp in 1972; Mobile One came on the scene about a year later. Good quality synthetic motor oil, while it is not inpervious to, is highly resistant to viscosity breakdown from heat, friction, oxidation, and chemical contamination. Why? Because of the purer base stock oil used as a foundation coupled to a vigorous chemical additive package added in the final formulation. Synthetic motor oil is more expensive than regular petroleum oil at the outset. But because of the extended drain intervals it’s actually cheaper to use in the long run than regular petroleum oil. Typically, good synthetic motor oil has a drain interval of 7,500 miles for semi-synthetic blend and 20 – 25K miles for full synthetic motor oil. Much longer drain intervals have been recorded but I am not comfortable with going much beyond these intervals. Also, I am only quoting AMSOIL and Mobile One drain intervals, as these are the number one and two oils respectively. For more info about AMSOIL online go to: www.thelubepage.com and for Mobile One: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Home/Homepage.aspx.

Til’ next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

This time of year, roadways across America thaw out and reveal pockmarks in road surfaces that resemble the moonscape. The breakdown of road surfaces is a result of the expansion and contraction from heating up and cooling down, coupled with the stress of supporting vehicles day after day. As many of you know, vehicles sustain damage from driving through this rough terrain. How do you know if your vehicle has been damaged by potholes and, if so, what is the cost of repair? Here are some tips to help identify any problems and the expense of repair.

Steering wheel shimmy: This condition is characterized by a quick back and forth motion of the steering wheel at a particular speed or all the time. If shimmy only shows up at a particular speed, chances are that a wheel weight was thrown off from the shock of going through a pothole, resulting in wheel imbalance. If the wheel is shaking at all speeds and intensifies as you go faster, most likely either a wheel is bent or the steering linkage is loose. Approximate costs for repairs:

• Wheel balancing: $10-$20 per wheel. Ask if the shop offers lifetime balance. If they do, it’s worth having all four wheels balanced so that you can have the tires rotated and rebalanced free of charge every 6K miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. This maintenance practice promotes longer tire life.

• Wheel replacement: Wheels vary in cost factor. They can cost anywhere from $50 to $500. Check with your local dealer’s parts department for exact pricing.

• Worn steering linkage: This repair can run anywhere from $100 per installed tie rod to $700 for a complete steering rack replacement.

Vehicle wanders: Whenever you hit a bump, the vehicle either jumps left or right in an uncontrolled manner. This condition is often caused by worn ball joint/s, bad shocks or struts and/or strut mounts, or a broken swaybar or links. Approximate costs for repairs:

• Suspension: Repairs can run anywhere from $120 for replacement of one ball joint to $2,000 for complete suspension rebuild. The best way to determine exact pricing is to get the vehicle up on a lift and have a front-end inspection performed.

Vehicle takes bumps hard: This condition is an indicator of bad shocks or struts, or broken spring/s. Approximate costs for repairs:

• Shock/strut replacement: This repair can run anywhere from $150 for four (4) shocks to $1200 if the system is equipped with an air-ride suspension (air filled struts or springs).

• Spring replacement: The cost varies depending on vehicle and system design. Because spring replacement is labor intensive and can take much longer than what the labor guide calls for (due to rust and corrosion), spring replacement is usually priced on a time and material basis. I have seen situations where the labor guide calls for a $200 per axle charge, but the actual cost runs much higher due to frame damage, rust, and other unforeseen complications.

Vehicle pulls to one side or another or the steering wheel is crooked: The vehicle needs a wheel alignment. Approximate cost:

• Most vehicles today have four-wheel alignment capability. If the fix requires only a simple mechanical adjustment of the system, the repair will usually cost $90 – $150. If special kits have to be installed to make mechanical adjustment possible, you can add $30 – $100 per wheel, depending on the cost of the kit and the additional labor required to install it.

Whole vehicle vibrates under acceleration: Drivetrain vibration can usually be attributed to a bent driveshaft, a worn CV joint, or transmission damage. Approximate cost:

• Half shaft replacement: This repair runs from $200 to $500 per side for parts and labor, which does not include wheel alignment.

• CV Joint: If a CV Joint is bad, it’s usually cheaper to replace the whole shaft with a rebuilt unit than to replace the CV Joint. Why? Because the parts and labor to rebuild a shaft is higher than a rebuilt replacement, and most rebuilt shafts carry a lifetime warranty.

• Transmission replacement: The cost can run anywhere from $2500 for a standard FWD automatic to $7000 or higher for some 4WD vehicles that might have the transfer case attached to them.

On a final note regarding pothole carnage: A recent article from the Insurance Information Institute (III) stated that pothole damage might be covered under your collision or comprehensive insurance. If you have damage due to a severe pothole, check your insurance policy before paying out of pocket for the repairs because they may be covered after you satisfy the deductible (which, in most cases, is much less than the repair cost).

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 Nissan Altima and I frequently smell burning oil. I check the oil to make sure I always have oil in the engine and add as needed. What could cause this?
Barbara from Milwaukee, WI

Barbara,
Typically, when you smell oil burning, it is because oil is leaking out of the engine and onto a hot engine part such as an exhaust manifold or pipe. This vehicle came with either a 2.5 4 cylinder or a 3.5 4 cylinder engine. I would start by having the valve covers inspected for leakage. This is common after a vehicle gets some age on it. What happens is the valve cover/s leak and oil runs down the side of the engine onto something that is hot and burns the oil. Another cause is a leaking oil sending unit. This device is tapped into an oil gallery and is a sealed plug. When the seal breaks from age, oil leaks out onto the hot engine often resulting in a burning oil smell. A good tech will be able to inspect and determine the cause of the smell in short order. Good luck.
Tom

Laura,
Yes, I would fix it immediately because, if the system runs out of steering fluid, damage could occur to the steering rack or power steering pump. The leak is probably due to a leaking hose, which will cost you way less than a pump or rack replacement. In the meantime, make sure that the system is always full of fluid and that it is not allowed to run out. Good luck.
Tom

Edwin,
Start with checking the master window switch on the driver’s side. Remove the switch, disconnect the plug, find the hot wire and jump each terminal to see if you can get the window to go up and down. If you can, then the switch is bad and needs replacing. If you still can’t get the window to go up and down, then you need to open the door panel and check the window motor and wiring to it. Good luck.
Tom

Josh,
Yes, Hondas are great car, as are Toyotas, Chevys, Nissans, Hyundais, Fords, KIAS and many other vehicles out there. It’s a matter of preference, Josh. Resale values for good quality vehicles are always going to be more than lesser quality, inferior vehicles. The key is to make sure you are buying the vehicle at a fair price given the market value at the time.
Tom

Ray,
I suspect you have a leaking evaporator core in the A/C system. The evaporator is located inside the HVAC box and has refrigerant running through it. When it springs a leak, refrigerant is allowed into the vehicle cabin (that’s the mist you’re seeing). As for the smell? When a leak springs, refrigerant oil soaks the face of the core, and then when air is drawn across the core’s face, dirt is filtered out and sticks to the whole mess. Then mold and mildew form, creating what you describe as cat urine odor. Have a leak test performed on the HVAC box; I think you’ll find that a leaking evaporator unit is the root of this problem. Best to you.
Tom

Deb,
You lost me when you stated, “to see if cleaning them out worked.” Cleaning out what? The engine? Radiator? Hoses? Cooling system? I will assume that you meant radiator tubes because a radiator has multiple tubes through which coolant flows to achieve engine cooling. A process called “rodding” is performed to clean a radiator. When rodding a radiator, the end tanks are removed and a thin rod is run down through each radiator tube to clear any obstruction due to corrosion. This procedure is quite labor intensive and might cost as much if not more than a radiator replacement. Actually, $685 for a radiator replacement is reasonable considering the labor involved (4.0 hrs). The radiator itself is $286 from VW. Plus you have coolant and hose clamps or hose replacement if necessary. I priced a radiator replacement with an OEM VW radiator with a labor rate of $120 per hr with no coolant, hoses or clamps and came up with $766 before tax. Should the radiator need replacing, I think the dealer is very reasonably priced at $685.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Owner’s manuals contain a lot of important information and directions about your particular vehicle.

Problem is, lots of times car owners can’t find the manual – it has either been lost, or didn’t come with a used car purchase.

You can buy a car manual from the dealership or car manufacturer, but you can often find them online for free. Here’s a list of links for most car manuals available online.

If you want to order a paper copy of the manual, you can do so through the site or your dealer.

1. Leakage: If you see a pink pool of oil when moving your vehicle, have it looked at right away.
2. Shaking: If you vehicle shakes at high speeds there could be a problem with the transmission
3. Delayed drive or reverse: If your car hesitates to go into Drive or Reverse longer than it should or if it jerks when shifting gears, the transmission could be to blame.
4. Burning smell: If you smell this, your transmission could be overheating or leaking.
5. Check engine light: Eliminate the transmission from being the culprit of why your light is on.
6. Transmission slipping: If power is not getting to the wheels like it should when the engine is revving, it could be the transmission.
These tips are from Premium Automotive Repair

Always check the transmission fluid regularly for preventive maintenance. Transmission repairs can cost over $2000. The transmission is a critical part of any vehicle that must be repaired in order to have gears that fully work. A vehicle service contract from Warranty Direct is a good thing to have when transmission problems occur. The cost of just transmission repair would pay for the policy. It can also help protect you against other car repairs as well. Visit www.warrantydirect.com for more information about an extended auto warranty.

Dear Tom,
I listen to your radio show here in Savannah, GA. Thanks for all you do for us drivers. I drive a 2004 Lincoln LS with an auto transmission. This auto has NO dipstick, much to my dismay! When driving, the shift from 2nd to 3rd can be very rough at times. The dealer tells me he can’t duplicate this! I have had the transmission drained and fluid replaced twice, once by the dealer and another by an independent shop that I trust. I can use any advice you can offer!
Patrick from Savannah, GA

Patrick,
Thanks for listening down Georgia-way! I researched your problem and came up with a possible solution. Ford issued a TSB on this condition, it is TSB # 05-21-8. According to this bulletin, there may be a problem with the shift solenoids in the transmission causing harsh shift points. If you have your local dealer reference this TSB they will probably be able to solve your problem. Best to you.
Tom

Dottie,
Ford Motor Company issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this condition. It involves checking the tires for flat spots, tire-to-wheel fitment, and overall tire diameter. Flat spots on the tires will cause vibration. Also, if the tires are too wide for the rims, vibration will occur. Finally, vibration also occurs when the overall diameter of one or more tires is greater or lesser than another. The TSB number is: 08-24-2. Have your repair shop look this up and perform the service. Success to you.
Tom

John,
The camshaft position sensor measures the position of the cam lobes and adjusts ignition timing to achieve maximum combustion efficiency in the engine. Before you get in way over your head with this repair, call your local dealer and ask them about TSB # 12 12 99 from BMW. It involves replacing the camshaft position-sensor with an updated one. Apparently there were problems with the cam sensors that were installed at the factory. Good luck.
Tom

Cookie,
Your car has a strut/shock configuration. Have the front struts and strut mounts, as well as the rear shocks checked. Sounds like they are at the end of their respective lives. If you had them replaced recently, or they’re in good shape, then have the stabilizer bar links and mounts checked. Oftentimes, when the links or mounts go bad, the bar will bang on the underside of the vehicle when going over bumps in the roadways. Good luck.
Tom

Mary,
That car has rear drum brakes. It sounds like a brake shoe is hanging up. There are a number of things that can cause this to happen: A lack of lubrication between the shoes and backing plate, or a bad wheel cylinder, or a frozen emergency brake cable, or the lining is coming loose from the steel backing. At any rate, get it into a shop so they can take the wheels off and find the source of the problem.
Tom

Lulu,
I suspect that you have a bad brake light switch. Typically, these switches go bad over time and an electrical short causes the brake lights to stay on. The switch is located at the top of the brake pedal arm and is easy to replace. To check it, simply disconnect the electrical plug and see if the lights go out. If they do, the switch is bad. If they don’t, your car has wiring issues that must be traced down in order to do the repair. If this is the case, take it to a shop.
Tom

Jerry,
I just had the same thing happen with my Toyota pickup, same year and model. A starting system analysis revealed that it was the starter. I removed it and took it to a rebuilder and, when they opened the starter up, they found that the contacts inside the motor had burned which caused the intermittent starting condition. They replaced the burnt contacts and the truck starts every time. The repair cost was $45 as opposed to over $200 for a rebuilt unit. Sweet.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
Other than keeping up on oil changes (I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30) and keeping up on the air filter, is there any after market stuff I can buy to increase mileage? I know there’s aftermarket stuff that increases horsepower, but not mileage. I’m looking for good quality products that are a surefire way to make a noticeable difference in mileage. Please help!
Dan from Phoenix, AZ

Dan,
Using synthetic motor oil is a good move. You might also want to change over the transmission fluid to synthetic ATF; this will help reduce internal transmission drag. Using synthetic transmission fluid is a move many carmakers use to increase fuel efficiency. Keep your tires inflated to the proper levels and replace the air filter with a K&N high-flow air filter. These combined moves should result in measurable fuel mileage increases.
Tom

Glen,
Have you even tried to start it yet? Try to crank it over. If the engine cranks, that’s a good sign. Drain the crankcase and fill it with new oil. Next, replace the oil filter, and before you install the new filter, fill it with oil. Pull a valve cover. Next, ground the coil wire and crank the engine until the rockers pump oil up into the head. Make sure you have spark from the coil, then reinsert the coil wire and start the engine up. Should the engine NOT crank, find our why. There could be rust in the cylinders or a seized crankshaft. The only way to find the cause is to disassemble the engine. If it’s extremely rusty inside, find another engine. Good luck.
Tom

Mary,
Have a computer scan done to see if there are any misfire codes. This will tell you if the plugs are dirty resulting in misfire. Bad spark plug wires can also cause this condition. Why? When the insulation breaks down then the wires crossfire. An effective way to see if the wires are cross-firing is to spray water in them. If they crossfire, then the wires need replacing. Another suggestion, have a flight tester hooked to the vehicle’s datalink connector and drive it. This way the tech can monitor the datastream to observe any anomalies in the system. Aside from this course of diagnosis, anything else is a shot in the dark. Success to you.
Tom

Tony,
Yes, the air ride suspension would help the ride of your Merc. After installing the air ride system, you can adjust the shock and strut feel by adjusting the air in the system. There are many aftermarket systems available for that car. A simple keyword search on Yahoo rendered over 400,000 results. I went to a site called “Suspension-Alternatives” and found three good kits ranging from $235 to $500. I wish you success.
Tom

Yvonne,
Interstate makes high quality products. Your car takes the Interstate Mega-Tron MT-51R battery. I research the battery and, based on the stats on Interstate’s application chard, this battery is well suited to your car, and the MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price) is $115, with the average retail price coming in at $96.95. It looks like this battery fills all your qualifiers.
Tom

Kate,
The “white smoke” could be due to condensation in the system. Typically, when it’s cold outside, hot exhaust gas passing through the cold exhaust system causes condensation (water) to form inside the system and thus “white smoke” (water vapor) comes out of the exhaust pipe until the system heats up enough to evaporate all of it. If the “white smoke” continues after warm up, you may have a blown the head gasket. And if the smoke smells like gasoline, you may have a fuel delivery problem. Good luck.
Tom

Pamela,
There is a TSB on this very issue. It is TSB# SB00-02-S002 from Isuzu. It states:
Condition:
All affected vehicles with the P1441 Evaporative Emission Code that has been diagnosed with “no fault found” from the appropriate flow chart in the Drivability and Emissions Manual.
Correction:
After determining that no faults exist for P1441, the affected vehicle may require an updated fuel sender and/or an updated calibration number. Do not replace the entire Fuel Pump and Sender assembly.

So you might need a new fuel-sending unit in your truck. Have it checked by the dealer before proceeding. Best to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with 73,500 miles and the front brakes were replaced last November. A couple of months ago I was driving down the highway and a I felt the car riding rough as if it had a flat tire, then I smelled smoke. I pulled over to the side and saw smoke coming from the left rear wheel! I had the car towed to the nearest Hyundai dealer and they said I needed rear brakes so I had them installed. A month later the same thing happened! Why?
Abe from Ashtabula, OH

Abe,
Have the emergency brake cables checked to see if they’re sticking in the “on” position. Quite often the cables freeze up due to rust and corrosion from exposure to road salt. When you apply the e-brake and then release it, the rear brakes stay in the applied position. This action wears out the rear brakes prematurely. If the vehicle is equipped with 4 wheel disc brakes, you could have a stuck brake caliper-slide causing this condition. Get it up on a lift and have the brakes checked again. Good luck to you.
Tom

Cy,
The compression might be good but the oil pressure might be in the toilet. Get a mechanical gauge hooked to the oil gallery where the oil pressure sensor is located and check it. This procedure eliminates the possibility of a bad oil pressure sensor. If the pressure is indeed low, then partial engine disassembly is necessary to evaluate internal wear. If the pressure is good, then you probably have a bad oil pressure sensor. My guess? At this mileage the oil pump is worn, as well as the main/rod bearing. At this mileage, the car doesn’t owe you anything. Maybe a total rebuild or replacement with a remanufactured unit such as a Jasper engine is in order if the body is still in good shape. Best to you.
Tom

David,
Initially this sounded out of line to me so I checked the Toyota maintenance schedule as per ALLDATA to confirm my suspicions. According to the maintenance schedule for this car, there’s nothing to indicate any such costs associated with the 30K mile maintenance.
See for yourself. Here is a list of the items at 30,000 miles as per Toyota for the 2010 Prius. I see nothing that would indicate a cost of $3,000. Sounds you’re your information source was wrong. I like the Prius as do the majority of the country’s motor press, so buy away!
Air Filter Element Replace, Ball Joint Inspect, Body and Frame Tighten/Torque, Brake Hose/Line Inspect, Cabin Air Filter Replace, Condenser, HVAC Inspect, Constant Velocity Joint Boot Inspect, Coolant Inspect, Disc Brake System Inspect, Drive Belt Inspect, Drum Brake System Inspect, Engine Oil Replace, Evaporative Emissions Hose Inspect, Exhaust System Inspect Fluid – A/T Inspect, Fuel Filler Cap Inspect, Fuel Supply Line Inspect, Fuel Tank Mounting Straps Inspect, Oil Change Reminder Lamp Reset, Oil Filter, Engine Replace, Radiator Inspect, Spark Plug Inspect, Steering Inspect, Steering Gear Inspect, Tires Rotate.

Evan,
First off, thanks so much for your service to our country. I see no reason to use this or any other oil treatment, especially in the engines of such thoroughbred of cars. These are high performance engines. I suggest that you start using synthetic motor oil, and I highly recommend AMSOIL because it is the best on the market. Oil treatments throw off the delicate blend of chemical fortifier packages, which sacrifices lubricating and rust inhibiting capacities, and (in some cases), causes acid buildup in the crankcase, which is not good for bearings. Just keep fresh synthetic oil in the engine according to the manufacturer drain intervals and you should log many more miles on these wonderful driving machines. Success to you.
Tom

Melvin,
Sometimes when the wheels sit overnight and it is cold outside, condensation forms on the rotor faces and a light film of rust forms. When you drive the vehicle in the morning, the rust is being scraped off by the brake pads, which causes the scrubbing sound. Once the rust is gone, the noise goes away. Additionally, have the inner fender wells checked. It’s possible that one of the wells has dropped due to a broken retainer and the tire is hitting it. Finally, it could be a seized brake caliper; in this case, the brake can’t retract after letting off the brake pedal. Get the vehicle into a shop for a brake and undercarriage inspection. Best to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder and it had a squeaky belt since I bought it in 2006. It only squeaked when it was cold outside, and the squeak lessened as the car warmed up. I got tired of the noise so I replaced the serpentine belt a few months ago (the old one was pitted and cracked). Well, the noise stopped for a day or two. Now it squeaks in both cold and warm weather! And the noise is constant! However, it does stop when the car gets to a certain rpm. The noise is loud and drives me crazy. How can it be the belt when it is new? What else can it be? I am desperate…
Debbie from Portsmouth, NH

Debbie,
It sounds like the automatic belt tensioner has gone bad, which would cause the belt to squeak in both cold and warm weather. The tensioner is a spring-loaded idler pulley that rides against the back of the belt as it courses around the pulley system. When it goes bad, the belt squeals. Have it checked out. My guess is that it will need to be replaced. I wish you success.
Tom

Rahim,
On a 2006 Lexus, if the converter were indeed bad, I would want to look for an uncontrolled high fuel delivery cause. Typically the temperature sensor goes bad and dumps raw fuel inside the engine. The converter can’t process excessive, unburned, raw fuel so a rock of carbon forms and eventually stops the exhaust stream. This condition causes the vehicle to stall due to high backpressure. Yes, you do need to replace the converter. However, more importantly, you need to stop the uncontrolled fuel delivery to make sure the converter doesn’t clog again.
Tom

Alice,
Check your owner’s manual for octane requirements. I would guess anything 89 and higher would be acceptable. The reason they told you to use premium is because the car has a high performance engine meaning that it has high compression pistons, creating a much hotter combustion chamber environment. Regular octane fuel ignites easier in such an environment because it’s not as stable as premium fuel. If you use regular octane over a prolonged period of time, you will damage the engine. Success to you.
Tom

David,
It is difficult for me to give you proper advice, since I can’t see the problem to evaluate it. However, here goes… If the dash is pulling away from the vehicle’s interior, I would get under the dash and try to move it while shining a light underneath to see if there are any loose mounting bolts. If the dashboard is coming away from the dash’s foundational structure, then look for a loose or missing securing bolt. Finally, if the external pad is lifting up, go to your local body shop supply house and ask for a pad sealer. If it comes loose again after you glue it back into place, you will have to replace the dash. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Tom

Ray,
You might have done just that, Ray, and I agree. Why can’t carmakers offer an option of Photo-Gray window glass for automobiles? Brilliant concept! I love it!
Tom

Duane,
Using higher octane than the carmaker recommends is not detrimental to your vehicle. However, it IS detrimental to your wallet! And you don’t get any better performance with a higher octane fuel in this case. Drop to 87 octane and enjoy the pleasures of driving a vehicle that costs you less. Best to you.
Tom

Robin,
I researched the engine mount issue and found that the mounts on that car tend to degrade because the rubber portions of the mounts are exposed to the intense heat from the exhaust manifolds. There are updated mounts from Cadillac that can withstand higher temperatures. As for the tie rods, there are no problems listed from Cadillac, so I would question the quality of the parts that are being installed. Finally, there are no pending class actions on these problems with your car. Good luck.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
My 2004 Olds Bravada smells hot… really hot. I keep putting in more antifreeze and it seems to disappear (I don’t see any wet spots under the vehicle). The over flow keeps emptying, as well as the radiator. Please help!
Janet from Reno, NV

Janet,
Coolant is going somewhere, probably out the tailpipe. Check to see if the vehicle is emitting white steam out the tailpipe (it probably is). If so, then the head gasket has blown or a cylinder head has cracked or warped as a result of overheating the engine. Have the engine checked for a blown head gasket. Good luck.
Tom

Josh,
Quite often moisture and dirt get into the hub assemblies when hub seals go bad. I recommend you open the hubs and inspect them for dirt or moisture. If necessary, clean the hubs out, re-lubricate, and try them. If the cogs and gears are okay and freely moving, the system should work again. If the vehicle is equipped with vacuum controlled hubs, the vacuum control circuit might not be engaging the hubs completely when they are activated. In this case, the system would need to be tested for vacuum leaks or faulty components. Success to you.
Tom

Tom,
First have a scan done of the control module for the transfer case. This module receives the 4×4 commands and sends the commands to the transfer case. You need to find out if the transfer case is being told to go back to 2WD. There is a shift motor that shifts the transfer case into and out of four-wheel drive. Once you scan the system for trouble codes, you can then use this info to isolate the source to an electronic control problem, or a transfer case problem.
Tom

Eric,
The recommended gear lube for your vehicle is 75W-90 rear end lube. AMSOIL makes a synthetic 75W-90 sold as “Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube” that would work superbly in your Morris Minor 1000. For any future questions along these lines, consult www.lubedepot.com.
Tom

Joe,
The injectors on this engine are electronically controlled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). The first order of business is to scan the system for codes. It sounds to me like you have a grounded temperature sensor or a faulty injector driver causing the injectors to pump raw fuel into the engine. If left in this condition for too long, it will damage the catalytic converter and you will have to replace it. The cat is getting more fuel than it can process, which will cause it to plug up with carbon deposits. Success to you.
Tom

Alan,
The HVAC box on this truck has to be removed from under the dash to replace the heater core. This is quite a labor-intensive job, and not (may I add) a job for the novice. Even with special tools and experience, the job requires about 4.5 hours according to the book. Bite the bullet and pay to have the job done. However, if you decide to do it yourself, my experience tells me that whatever the book time is for a job, double it (at least).
Tom

Sherrie,
There are a few things that could cause this change in pressure. The engine could be worn out; the oil pump could be bad; the oil pump pick-up could be plugged with sludge; there could be excessive clearance in the rod, main, or cam bearings; or there’s no oil in the engine. I would suggest getting the vehicle to a shop for an oil pressure test as soon as possible to avoid any further engine damage. Good luck.
Tom

Andrea,
There is a possibility that the vehicle was in a flood. A Carfax Report would identify it as a flood victim, if this were the case. There are two other possible causes for the smell. Either the condensation drain is plugged on the HVAC box (allowing the water to leak into the vehicle cabin), or mold is growing on the evaporator core. The system can be deodorized at a shop. During this process, they clean the HVAC box with an industrial grade disinfectant. If the smell comes back after this service is performed, then they have to open the HVAC box in order to find the cause of the odor. I wish you success.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2007 Buick Lucerne. During humid mornings or evenings moisture accumulates on the windows as soon as I start the car. Activating the defroster does no good. If I put the defroster on high blower and the heat on high, then eventually the windshield will clear. At times even the rear window will fog up. What’s up with this?
Paul from Monroe, VA

Paul,
Moisture buildup inside the car is usually the result of a leaking heater core or the result of a plugged A/C condensation drain. The A/C system is always activated (even in winter) in an effort to dehumidify the vehicle’s interior. Get these two areas checked. Success to you.
Tom

Grace,
Some coolant leaks only show up under certain coolant pressure ranges. Get the truck up on a lift and check the underside of the water pump for water tracks. Sounds like its leaking out of the shaft vent hole. If this doesn’t work, then have a dye test performed. During this test, they will install a fluorescent dye in the coolant and shine an ultraviolet light on the engine to find the leak. Good luck.
Tom

Patti,
The EGR Valve is located on the right front side of the engine and is part of the emissions system; it attaches to an EGR adapter plate. If the EGR system is indeed malfunctioning, the EGR passages may require cleaning as well (carbon cleaning). During this procedure, a high-grade carbon cleaner is injected into the engine at the fuel rail while the engine is running. Then the engine is shut off for a time while the cleaner does its magic. The price quoted seems a bit high given the fact that the valve is $213.75 and the labor to replace it is one-half hour at the shop’s labor rate. They might be including a carbon cleaning in that price. Ask the shop if this is the case. If it doe include the carbon cleaning, then the price quoted is within the ballpark. Best to you.
Tom

Dave,
Has anyone done any investigation as to why this phenomenon continues to occur? There has to be a root cause, such as excessive sludge buildup clogging oil feed passages, worn main, rod, or cam bearings, or the engine is worn out and needs replacing. Better find another shop that knows how to diagnose internal engine problems.
Tom

Mayhugh,
There is no such thing as resetting the external temperature sensor. Replace it because it is bad. The sensor is usually located behind the front grill right under the hood latch assembly.
Tom

Karen,
You’re not going to like what I say, but here goes! Tell your husband to stop trying to fix the vehicle himself because he is in way over his head. Get it into a qualified shop for proper diagnostics. Moisture could be getting into an ignition coil resulting in a misfire. Once the engine warms up the moisture evaporates and the miss goes away. To determine which coil is bad (there are 8 coils) you will have to leave your vehicle at a shop overnight so the technician can verify the problem and replace only the bad parts. In addition, the vehicle’s ignition system has to be checked with a scan tool to identify any misfires. This process effectively identifies the cylinder that is missing and allows the tech to dig deeper into the cause of the misfire.
Tom

Hal,
The onboard computer does control the line pressure in the transmission on your car. If the transmission was running high-line, you would also be experiencing very harsh engagement and shifting. Is this the case? Make note next time you drive the vehicle. If it is making a pump noise, but working properly, I would say you have a front pump problem. Better get it back to the shop that did the work and take advantage of the warranty!
Tom

Angela,
Yes, that’s fine. As a matter of fact, during high salt season, take it through the car wash twice a week to wash metal-eating salt out from under the car. I hear Delta Sonic uses fresh water in their car washes, which is ideal for effective car cleaning in wintertime.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘10 Infinity G-37 coupe. The tires were fine until it got cold outside. No the tire pressure monitoring system indicates that the tire pressures are low. The tires look fine to me. What’s up with this?
Delilah from Burlington, VT

Delilah,
Infiniti came out with a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) stating that tire pressures change approximately 0.06 to 1.0 pound for every degree drop in temperature. Have the tire pressures checked. If they are a couple of pounds low, it’s probably due to the temps dropping during winter. Inflate to the proper level and the tires should be fine. If one or more is found to be extremely low (5-10 lbs or more) the tires are leaking due to a hole, leaking valve stem, or rim bead leak and should be repaired and re-inflated to the correct level. Best to you.
Tom

Melinda,
It sounds like there is an issue with the wiring harness to the seats. Check the connectors to the electric motor that drives the seat. It might be short-circuited. As for the seat heaters, check the wiring and connector to the electric heating element. I think you’ll find your problem in the wiring or connectors. Good luck.
Tom

Big Wal,
Yes, the ignition coil could be misfiring, causing the drivability condition you described. However, the best way to track down this gremlin is to conduct a flight test. During this test, the tech hooks a diagnostic computer to the car’s OBDII data port and drives the vehicle while monitoring what’s happening in the data stream. This procedure helps the tech track down the cause, rather than indiscriminately replacing parts hoping to fix it. The cost of diagnostic testing is small compared to the “hit and miss” approach.
Tom

James,
Here’s the procedure as per GM:
• Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
• Fully push and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds
• If the ‘Change Oil Soon’ light flashes, the system is resetting
• Start the vehicle
• The oil life indicator will change to 100%.
• If the ‘Change Oil Soon’ light comes back on, the system has not reset itself. Repeat the procedure.
Good luck!
Tom

Chris,
Make sure the rotors were turned when the brake job was done so that the pads could break in properly. Without a non-directional finish cut on the rotors for proper pad break-in, the pads will not stop the car properly and they will squeal. Also, have the pads checked to make sure they are properly secured to the calipers via the anti rattle clips. When the pads are loose, a high-pitched vibration ensues causing a squeal. Best to you.
Tom

John,
Injector? Injector wire? Third to the right from the front of the car? Three injectors showing? OVEN CLEANER?! What are you talking about, John? It’s obvious by your questions that you have no clue as to what you are doing. Back away from the car and close the hood! Drive to your nearest automotive diagnostician before you hurt yourself and/or the car. First you need to check spark and injector pulse in the cylinder/s that appear to be dead. If spark and injector pulse are present, then you should check compression in that cylinder. If it’s good, then try cleaning the injectors, but only try this procedure AFTER running a few more tests to confirm that the missing cylinder has compression and there are no vacuum leaks. Oven cleaner? Com’on!
Tom

Luke,
The visor is attached to the roof of the vehicle via a small plate with three screw holes through which screws thread into the sheet metal of the roof of the van. These are #2 Phillips screws. Remove them and the whole visor assembly will come down. You can then reach into the visor with a small screwdriver or wire to fish the placard out. Better find a different storage space. Success to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own an ‘04 Chrysler Town & Country and the corners of the hood just above the headlamps are rusting through the paint. The dealer says there is nothing they can do because the paint is warranted for three years. I had the van for three years as of this past April. Is there a recall on this rust problem? I have seen this occur on 2000-03 vans and just noticed it this week on my van.
Darren from Depew NY

Darren,
Unless you can prove that the rust is from inside of the panel, you will get nothing from Chrysler. The position of carmakers is that rust occurs from stone chipping or some other means originating from the outside. No car manufacturer or paint manufacturer will guarantee rust from the exterior chipping of paint. The prognosis? It will only get worst if you don’t get it corrected. And now that you have rust on the exterior of the panel, most body repair shops will not guarantee the rust repair. The most effective method of repair at this point would be to replace the rusted body panel. Success to you.
Tom

Winston,
Most problems encountered with outside temperature readings can be attributed to a faulty outside temperature sensor. This sensor is located directly behind the front grill and gets pummeled with all the rain, snow, ice, bugs, road projectiles and any other debris that finds its way through the front grill. Try unplugging the sensor and then start the car. The temperature reading should read –40 degrees. If it does not, this will verify that the sensor is faulty and should be replaced. If the sensor checks out okay, then trace the wiring for a short. If the wiring checks out, then the gauge inside the cluster is bad and the cluster needs replacing. Good luck.
Tom

Barbara,
This light is a “Maintenance Reminder Light.” The light comes on for two reasons: (1) As a maintenance reminder: You can expect the light to come on every 4,800 miles to let you know you are due for an oil change. (2) The brake pads are worn out. The pads have wear sensors on them and when the pads get down to the point of replacement, the sensors make contact with the rotors which turns on this light.
Tom

Ruben,
The window motor has a plastic tape drive. When the switch is depressed, the motor(which has a gear that is meshed with the tape) moves the window up or down. The reason why the motor continues to run? Because it has to sense resistance from the window seating either in the up or down position to turn off. The tape is broken and doesn’t sense resistance, hence the constant running of the motor. Replace the window motor and your problem will be solved.
Tom

ASH,
Most likely when the engine was washed, some sparkplug wires got soaked, which resulted in cross firing. Try driving the vehicle for about 100 miles to see if the miss goes away. If it doesn’t, get the car into a shop to track down the cause of the misfire.
Tom

Joe,
I hate to burst your dream world, but there is no “Reprogram Procedure” for this problem. A blower resistor regulates the fan motor speed on your van. The resistor steps voltage up and down, resulting in variation of fan speed. When the resistor blows or burns up, then there is only one speed left … high. Replace the blower resistor and you restore multiple fan speeds.
Tom

Linda,
The heater box will need to be disassembled and the blend doors checked out. There could be a duct door stuck in the heater box due to a broken door or shaft, a faulty vacuum motor that controls the door, or vacuum loss to the control box. As for the growling fan motor, have the fan case checked for leaves or organic debris. If the fan case is clear, it could be that the motor shaft bearings are worn and the fan motor needs replacing.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2002 Toyota Highlander with 33,000 miles. A Toyota dealer told me that “it is recommended” that I have the serpentine belt changed and the thuttle box serviced. These are dealer recommended services. My mechanic friend looked at the car and told me not to worry about changing the belt or servicing the thuttle box. In your opinion, when is a good time (number of miles) to change the belt and service the thuttle box? Thanks.
Peanut from San Dimas, CA

Peanut,
Many people hear the words “it is recommended” when they bring their vehicles in for service. This is a buzzword used by the auto service industry. Whenever you hear these words a bright red flag and alarms should go off in your head. You always hear those words used in conjunction with phrases like “engine flush”, “transmission flush,” and other automotive flushing or cleaning services. A simple review of Toyota’s service specs indicates that Toyota has no replacement interval for the serpentine drive belt. It should be inspected for wear every 15,000 miles starting at 60,000 miles, and replaced as necessary. As for servicing the thuttle box, does your Toyota Dealer service surfboards as well as Toyotas? A “Thuttle Box” is part of a special kind of surfboard, not a Toyota Highlander. If your thuttle box needs servicing, take it to a Ron Jon surfboard store for service.
Tom

Mary,
I’ve been preaching this for years! There is no “Transmission Repair Stuff” or “Mechanic-In-A-Can” that will repair a burnt up transmission. From your description of the color and smell of the trans fluid, the transmission is probably toast. The repair stuff” you added swells up the seals in the transmission, which renews internal hydraulic pressure for a short period of time. It stops working after the seals shrink again, hence the reason why it only worked for a short time. Have the vehicle towed to a garage and have them check out the transmission. You are most likely looking at a transmission replacement or rebuild. Sorry for the bad news.
Tom

Rene,
A leaking heater core has to be replaced. ‘Stop Leak’ just clogs the rest of the system up and causes the engine to overheat. Heater core replacement on this truck requires disassembly of the dash to remove the HVAC box where the heater core is housed. In short, it’s a very labor-intensive job that requires experience and special tools. The book calls for five hours to do this job by an experienced technician. You may be “handy” but this job is probably over your head. Bite the bullet and pay to have it done. You’ll be better off in the long run. Good luck.
Tom

Bruce,
Your Grand Prix should have a 4T65E transaxle. You car’s computer controls the line pressure in this transmission, which affects shift firmness/softness. If the transmission is worn out and slipping, the computer compensates by raising the trans line pressure, causing a harsher shift. Test-drive the vehicle with a scan tool attached to the in-vehicle data link connector to monitor transmission data. This will give you more info on what could be causing the problem. It may store a P1811 code in the future. Other causes of harsh shifts are stuck valve in the valve body, plugged trans oil filter, bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), high engine idle, large vacuum leak, and a host of other stuff that needs to be checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Gerald,
If the refrigerant charge is low in the system, then the computer will not allow the compressor to engage because it detects low refrigerant pressure. This is a built-in fail-safe to protect the compressor from running with no refrigerant oil. A garage will need to check the refrigerant level. If the level is low, they will locate the leak, repair it, and recharge the system with refrigerant and oil. If the refrigerant level is okay, then system pressure switches and powers and grounds from the computer will need to be checked for faults. Best to you.
Tom

Ron,
If the vehicle has traction control, it could be detecting a wheel slip to either the wheel actually spinning or (more likely) an antilock wheel speed sensor cutting out. The ABS/Traction Control system could be scanned for trouble codes. If the vehicle doesn’t have traction control, it could be a brake caliper hanging up or a stuck parking brake cable. Either way, you need to give this problem immediate attention. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own an ‘04 Dodge Neon that recently broke down because of a ruptured transmission oil cooler tank in the radiator. I took the car to a transmission shop and they told me that both the radiator and the transmission have to be replaced because the antifreeze and the transmission fluid mixed. Do I have to replace the transmission?! Is this covered under a recall?
Michael from Williamsburg, VA

Michael,
Yes, the transmission must be replaced. When coolant mixes with transmission oil and circulates through the system, the transmission suffers severe damage. Rubber seals swell up and hydraulic pressure is lost, and the coolant dissolves the glue that holds the clutches together inside the transmission. This condition is NOT covered under a recall from Chrysler. Sorry for the bad news. Best to you.
Tom

Karen,
At 330,000 miles it doesn’t surprise me that the engine is starting to exhibit low oil pressure. Bearing and mating surfaces are wearing down. Your question is impossible to answer without internal engine inspection. At the very least, have the crank, oil pump, and oil pan inspected for evidence of internal wear and proceed from there. This process will require removal of the oil pan and measurement of the crankshaft journals and oil pump, as well as an inspection of the oil pan for evidence of metal particles from internal engine wear. However, at such high mileage I can pretty much assure you that the engine should be either rebuilt or replaced with a remanufactured unit. I like the Jasper remanufactured engines; they are high quality and have the best warranty. Good luck.
Tom

Amy,
If you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine you will find the thermostat housing. The housing has two bolts that secure it to the engine. These need to be removed to gain access to the thermostat. When you replace it, make sure you thoroughly clean the housing and gasket-mating surface on the engine. Also, make sure the thermostat is installed right side up (spring down inside the engine) and you’ll be good to go. Success to you.
Tom

Bill,
In order to isolate the problem you must find where the sending unit screws into the engine (usually in a water jacket on the intake manifold). Once you locate the sending unit, disconnect the wire that plugs into it. Then ground the wire while watching the gauge inside the truck. If the gauge goes too hot, the sending unit is defective and must be replaced. If the gauge does not move after grounding the sending unit wire, then there is a problem either with the wiring between the sender and the gauge in the dash, or with the gauge itself. Good luck.
Tom

Cal,
The Ambient Temperature Sensor on your truck is located behind the grill near the hood latch. It has a round, black, two-pin connector with light blue/orange and dark green wires. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the processor inside the truck causing the malfunction. If the sensor replacement does not solve the problem, have diagnostics done of the circuit that feeds that function.
Tom

Richard,
Were the drums resurfaced when the brake job was done? If not, I would pull them off, resurface them, and sand the brake shoes as well. Also, grind the ends of the shoe braking material at a 45-degree angle. That will take the sharp leading edge off the brake shoe and stop the noise.
Tom

Ed,
Have the driveshaft checked for a stiff U-Joint. If it checks out okay, then check the shaft for imbalance. When a ding or dent damages the shaft, it can get knocked out of balance causing a drivetrain vibration. The condition of the molded rubber mount of the carrier bearing doesn’t sound too good either. Get the vehicle up on a lift and have it checked. You’ll get a vibration if that bearing is allowed to jump up and down within its rubber case.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I purchased a used ‘09 VW Jetta, with 8,000 miles. The car has a 2-yr/24k mile warranty, and I was offered an additional warranty of 5 yr/75k miles for an additional $1900. Should I buy the extended warranty, or is the standard one enough?
Arika from San Diego, CA

Arika,
It all depends on how long you are going to keep the car and what is covered in the ‘standard warranty.’ If the standard warranty covers the car bumper to bumper and you’re going to keep the car beyond the two years and 24K miles, then buy the extended warranty after the present warranty expires. If the present warranty lacks coverage on items you would like covered now, then buy the extended warranty now. Before you buy, make sure the warranty company is a solid one. We recommend Warranty Direct.Com on my national radio show and on the show’s website because they have an impeccable history on customer service and claim payouts. Make sure you check this warranty company out before making a decision. I wish you success.
Tom

Michael,
The transmission in your car is shifted via cables between the shifter and the trans. My first guess would be that one of the cables has popped off the linkage or shifter. There is a Technical Service Bulletin from Jaguar (# XT308-04) referring to revised shift cables to correct a noise concern. I suspect you need to have this service performed to correct the problem.
Tom

Paul,
First, I have one question: are you talking about a car or a woman? Wow… talk about having a relationship with your car! I would start by rechecking the battery connections. Check the ground wire at the battery as well as engine and body connections. Check the positive cable at the battery and down at the starter. It could be that the starter went bad or a fuse blew. Oftentimes the starting system on European models is fused with a large fuse under the hood. I also checked my database on your vehicle and came up with recall# 06-01 Group# 27 that was done on March 29th of 2006. It addresses a concern with the alternators on that particular year, make, and model vehicle. Under certain operating conditions, the alternator may discharge, resulting in a dead battery. Have the dealership check your VIN to see if your vehicle is involved in this recall from VW. Good luck!
Tom

Robert,
You have an intake leak. This is common on GM 3800 engines. Have the gasket replaced and make sure, from this point forward, that you have the coolant serviced every 2 years or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first. Your vehicle uses Dexcool as a coolant. When the level gets low, oxygen chemically reacts with the coolant forming an acid. This acid eats away at the intake gaskets causing a leak. If you keep the cooling system clean with fresh coolant every two years or 24,000 miles this will not happen.
Tom

Nancy,
It sounds like a relay is shorting internally. Also, check the brake pedal linkage to see if a wiring harness has chaffed through and is grounding on the pedal arm. I wish you success.
Tom

Susan,
The best scenario for your “less experienced wintertime drivers” is to put four snow tires on the vehicle. This will ensure maximum traction in all inclement weather. There are many excellent winter tires on the market. I like Hapikolita, Nokian, and Hankook, just to mention a few. Winter treads are designed with special segmentation (and often ice cleats) that aid in winter traction. As for your son being in a hurry because of his sister’s problem with time management, tell him to leave without her a couple of times and she will mend her ways. If he does slide off the road, make him pay for the tow job. We learn best when we get hit in the wallet! Best to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘07 Honda Accord, Hybrid. I’m very pleased with the overall performance of the car, but I am disappointed with poor gas mileage in colder weather. I’m maintaining proper tire pressure. I assume it has something to do with dense air. Can you give me some guidance?
Don from Memphis, TN

Don,
It has everything to do with the colder temperatures and nothing to do with “dense air.” The performance system senses when the coolant is cold due to colder ambient temps, so it richens the fuel mixture which is necessary to start a cold engine. The fuel mixture stays rich until the engine reaches operating temperature. At this point, the fuel mixture levels out to a normal, leaner mixture for operating temps. Have a scan done of the system to make sure there are no codes. However, I think you’ll find that lower gas mileage is due to the colder weather.
Tom

Tim,
There is no such thing as a “stall code.” I checked and there are no recalls on your vehicle for this problem. The diagnostic procedure involves scanning the computer for trouble codes and then running the proper pinpoint tests necessary to track down the defective part. Is the ignition switch bad? Possibly, but the cost of diagnosing the problem is cheaper than replacing parts hoping to hit on the right one. The horn going off occasionally when locking the vehicle could be an indication that the alarm system is malfunctioning, so have this checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Lynn,
Without proper cooling system diagnostics it is impossible to answer your question. A cooling system pressure test will help to pinpoint the source of the coolant leak. It could be a hose or head gasket. Sometimes the source of a coolant leak is hard to find and a coolant dye test is necessary to track it down. A fluorescent dye is added to the coolant and then a fluorescent light (black light) is shown on the engine. The coolant becomes visible (a bright yellow color) under the light so you can identify the source of the leak. If I had to guess as to what the leak was I would say the head gasket. But have it checked out. Good luck.
Tom

Pete,
Vacuum pump? Gas cap replaced? What are you talking about? Have your tech scan the system for codes. It sounds like the IAC motor is acting up or the car could have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. Now I hope you are not going to go out and replace the parts that I just mentioned without testing. If you do, I can’t say I didn’t try, but it’s your money! Good luck.
Tom

Ralph,
Hyundai will not help with this cost because brakes are considered a wearable item. Brakes are expected to wear out and therefore not covered under warranty. There is one exception … if the brakes wear out due to a faulty part like a master cylinder or pressure equalization valve, which IS covered under warranty. In the case of such a part failing, then the brake pads may be affected as a result and thus covered under the warranty.
Tom

Lauren,
If I were pressed to describe your diagnostic technique in a phrase, I would describe it as “Squirrel Automotive Diagnostic Technique” because you seem to flit to and fro without rhyme or reason, replacing parts and coming up with new diagnostic scenarios. Based on what? Moon phase? Dreams? Drivability problems like you are describing can only be diagnosed one way… by a computer scan of the system. In addition, you might want to have a flight test performed so the tech can see exactly what is going on at the time of the failure. Finally, a fuel delivery analysis is in order as well, to make sure there is no drop in fuel pressure. This is the most efficient and effective way to accurately pinpoint the problem. To indiscriminately replace parts hoping to fix the problem is a waste of time and money. I wish you success.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Ol’ Man Winter is almost here for some of us, and for others he has already slapped you in the face! So it’s time to talk about common winter-related automotive mechanical failures and how to avoid them to save time, aggravation, and money. And most importantly, keep you safe.

Drivetrain Abuse

On snowy, windy days it’s easy to get stuck in a snowdrift, especially if you don’t have adequate winter tires or all-season tread. As a technician of many years, I have seen numerous drivetrains destroyed from abuse during a snowstorm; broken driveshafts and universal joints (as well as CV joints) disintegrated; transmissions cooked; differential ring and pinion gears literally sheared off; transfer cases locked from internal damage. Why this mechanical carnage? Because the operators of these poor, unfortunate vehicles refuse to call a tow truck when they get stuck in the snow.

When stuck in a snowdrift, many people get frustrated and start gunning the engine, shifting back and forth while keeping the gas pedal floored. They think they can “rock” the vehicle to get enough momentum to get out of the drift. What abuse! It’s like setting off a grenade in the drivetrain every time you reverse direction. Internal hard parts of the drivetrain (like sun & planetary gears, differential ring and pinion gears, axles, and differential carriers) are made of steel that goes through a special heating process during manufacturing. This process hardens the steel so that it resists steady wear over long time periods under normal operating conditions. However, there is one drawback to hardened steel. Although it resists wear, it is also brittle and cannot sustain hard and sudden shock. Impact of this sort causes stress cracks and sometimes shearing and twisting of splines, gear teeth, shafts, and yokes. Transmissions, differentials, and transfer cases fail under such strenuous operating conditions. Repair and transmission shops thrive when winter weather hits because of this carnage. Wanna stay out of the repair shops this winter? Call a tow truck when you get stuck in the snow. It’s cheaper in the long run.

Window and Door Abuse

Doors and windows are victims of winter’s onslaught too. After parking a warmed vehicle, ice and snow light on the door windows. When snow and ice hits the window it melts and runs down to the base of the glass. There’s a squeegee gasket made of rubber designed to stop water from going down inside the door. If this gasket is worn or maladjusted, water gets inside the door and soaks the door linkage, lock mechanisms, and window regulator. The water then freezes causing the lock and window mechanisms to freeze. The next time you try to enter your vehicle the locks are frozen, so you force the lock or door handle to get inside the vehicle. Suddenly something pops and the latch feels sloppy. My friend, you have just broken a lock linkage or latch assembly! The door has to come apart and the lock and/or latch repaired.

Here’s another scenario. You are able to enter the vehicle and you try to roll down the window. The window doesn’t move so you keep the motor engaged to get the window down. All of the sudden you hear a pop and the motor sounds like it’s running freely. You have just broken the internal drive of the window motor and it now has to be replaced. More unnecessary dollars spent. If you wait patiently for the vehicle to warm up, the window will free itself and go down effortlessly. Lesson learned. Or not?

Steering and Suspension Abuse

Snow covered roads conceal dangerous road imperfections. Driving through them can result in steering and suspension carnage. Deep potholes, speed bumps, curbs, large rocks or small glaciers can do massive damage to the underside of your vehicle, especially if it’s a car that’s low to the ground. Ball joints, control arms, and steering linkages have movable joints that are either a pivot design or a ball-and-socket design. Hard and shocking impact on the road can actually cause joint separation. I have seen cars after a snowstorm sitting on the side of the road with a front wheel folded up under the vehicle’s body! This is usually the result of a hard shock with a road hazard such as a curb, a pothole, or a large ice block. The moral of the story? Slow down, navigate the snow-covered roads with caution, or pay the consequences.

Windshield Wiper Abuse

A gentle snowfall is adorning the landscape. Caught up in the beauty of it all, you cheerfully get in your car to venture out for the day. You start the car and turn on the wipers to clear the snow and… nothing happens. Last night, after parking your warm car, snow fell and melted at the base of the windshield, encrusting the wipers in a mini glacier. When you turn on the wipers the next day, they are forced against the ice at the base of the windshield. Either the wiper motor burns up, the wiper linkage breaks, or the wiper arm splines are stripped when forced against the ice. This results in a major repair bill simply because you didn’t clear the windshield of ice before turning the wiper on. Remember, they are called windshield wipers, not windshield plows!

Save yourself inconvenience, time, money, and possibly your safety. Drive smart this winter season. Be kind to your car and it will serve you well. Happy winter driving.

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘01 Dodge Stratus. It’s difficult to turn the steering wheel when it’s cold outside until the engine is fully warmed up. It squeaks as the wheel turns and it feels like the belt is resisting my efforts. The power steering fluid was completely drained and replaced to no avail. What should I do?
Andrea from Foley, NC

Andrea,
This is called “Morning Sickness.” It’s usually attributed to a bad rack & pinion unit. The power steering fluid is heavy when cold, and a worn out rack or pump can’t pump the heavier fluid, hence the hard steering. The fluid warms up, it thins out, and then it can be pumped by the worn pump and through the worn rack. Have the steering system checked for hydraulic pressures. I think you’ll find you have a bad rack unit or pump. Success to you.
Tom

Rob,
No quick fix here. The EVAP system is a closed or sealed system that recirculates fuel vapors so they don’t vent to the atmosphere. To properly test the system it has to be charged with vapor then inspected for a leak. The device used for this test is called a “smoke machine.” Once the leak is found it has to be repaired to turn off the light and clear the code. Not a do-it-yourself project unless you’re a well prepared, well educated DIY’er with access to state-of-the-art automotive diagnostic equipment and the experience to boot. Good luck.
Tom

Kim,
Have the rear rotors checked to see if they are warped. If so, have them re-machined. Then check the rear brake calipers. They could be stuck which would cause brake pad drag. The resulting friction would heat up the rotors, causing them to warp and pulsate when the brakes are applied.
Tom

Bruce,
Check your owner’s manual and follow the recommendations. The engine in your car is turbocharged, so I would think it requires high-octane fuel. By using a low octane fuel in a high performance engine, you induce a condition called engine knock or pre-ignition. Pre-igniting of the fuel when it enters the combustion chamber causes constant hammering. Damage is done to the tops of the pistons, cylinder head face and valves. Spend the extra dollars for the premium gas. It will cost you less in maintenance in the long run.
Tom

Sonya,
Sludge is the result of oxidation of the oil. Excessive heat or poor quality oil causes this problem. Sludge is also a result of not changing the oil frequently enough. As for the puff of smoke, have the valve guides checked. With the high mileage, the seals might be bad or the valve guides are worn. Tips? Good quality oil has detergents built into it that clean the inside of the engine. Change the oil again and, this time, replace it with a high quality petroleum-based oil. I would not use synthetic oil due to high mileage, engine wear, and possibly bad valve seals. Synthetic oil tends to be thin and freer-flowing than petroleum-based oil and thus will burn more easily. I wish you success.
Tom

TJ,
It sounds like there may be a problem with the front tires (that were on the back). Run your hand across the tread; it should feel smooth. If the tread is cupped or worn unevenly, then this is the source of the noise. The tires should smooth out over time. Rotate and rebalance the tires every 6 months or 6,000 miles to keep this condition at a minimum. If the tires are okay, then I would check for a bad wheel bearing on the front of the vehicle.
Tom

Richard,
You have two options. (1) Replace the headlamp composite assembly with a new or used one (2) Remove the headlight assembly and drill a small hole in the bottom of it so that moisture can drain out. Over time this procedure will result in a shortened bulb life (but still longer than leaving the moisture inside the lens).
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Chevy Silverado extended cab pickup and the battery won’t keep a charge. I had it checked and charged twice this week and it did not start the following day. The shop said there was nothing wrong with the battery. I am selling the truck so I don’t want to spend a lot of money. I’m wondering if it would be all right to put in a rebuilt battery and let the person that buys it deal with the underlying problem.
Chris from Hanford, CT

Chris,
I would suspect a rogue parasitic electrical draw is sapping the life energy out of the battery when the key is off. To track this down, a tech will monitor the battery voltage while eliminating each electrical circuit one at a time until the draw is eliminated (at which point he will have identified the offending circuit). Then the tech will trace it out to find the malady and repair it. Otherwise, you will have to keep a full stock of batteries on hand! As for selling the truck with this problem without telling the buyer? Well that’s your call, Chris. Whatever you can sleep with … but I think you already know my answer.
Tom

Anthony,
Have the vehicle scanned with a hand-held scanner while driving it. That way the tech can see exactly what’s going on when the transmission downshifts prematurely. On this vehicle, the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) figures into shift strategy. If it is dropping out prematurely (either because it is faulty or because it needs an adjustment), then the transmission will respond as you described. Don’t change parts arbitrarily without first getting a diagnosis. It is an expensive way to go. Success to you.
Tom

Alex,
Hummm, raise the hood and find out where the engine noise is coming from. It could be a bad idler pulley, water pump, power steering pump, or alternator. Also, the engine could have a bad internal bearing in which case it will have to be torn down for inspection. At any rate, get it into a shop to be inspected before it breaks down and leaves you stranded! Good luck.
Tom

Shari,
Powertrain includes all components that power the car, IE: engine, turbo or super charger (if equipped), and all related engine parts. Drivetrain relates to the transmission, differential/s, axles, wheels, and anything that drives the car forward. Hope this helps.
Tom

Joseph,
According to the book, the labor for this job is 3.9 hours at the shop’s labor rate. The belt is $63.22. At a labor rate of $84 per hour, that calculates out to: $327.60. I would say that closer to $400 is more realistic (depending on the labor rate of the shop, of course).
Tom

John,
AMSOIL makes a good engine flush product that you can find at www.lubedepot.com. However, be careful! If the sludge buildup is significant then all of it will not be cleaned out and the problem will persist. If this is the case, then the engine must be torn down to remedy the problem. Toyota has an extended warranty on their cars for sludging (they call it “oil gelling”). You did not give the year, make, and model so I can’t be specific. However, if it is a Toyota product, there may be warranty coverage for this condition. Best to you.
Tom

Mary,
These cars are notorious for intake vacuum leaks. Typically, the lower portion of the intake plenum leaks due to a bad gasket. Have an engine vacuum test performed to confirm my suspicions. The reason for the lean readings on both banks O2 sensor? Because excessive oxygen is present in the exhaust flow from the vacuum leak. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘99 Dodge Ram 1500 4×2, 5.9L V8 with 97,000 miles. If the truck sits for more than a week, then the transmission does not engage for a few minutes after I start the vehicle. If I start it and wait a couple of minutes, then it’s fine. There is no problem if I drive the vehicle everyday. What’s wrong?
Josh from Anaheim, CA

Josh,
The condition you describe sounds like ‘torque converter drain back’. Chrysler put out a check valve to install in the cooler lines to prevent the problem. When the vehicle sits for a period of time, the transmission fluid drains out of the converter back into the transmission. The converter must then be primed when starting up the vehicle after it has sat for a while. The check valve installation stops the ‘drain back’ and ensures that fluid prime is there upon startup.
Tom

Debra,
The oil-sending unit on that car is located on the engine just above the oil filter. Before replacing the sending unit, confirm that it does have a leak by installing tracer dye in the oil and using an ultra violet light to find the leak. When you shine the light on the engine, a bright yellow color will show at the point of the leak. Success to you.
Tom

Alex,
According to the ALLDATA database for your car, the vacuum reserve chamber (which you refer to as a ‘bulb’) is located under the hood on the passenger’s side inner fender well. It’s triangular shaped and has one vacuum line going to it. Before changing the vacuum reserve chamber, check for a broken vacuum line under the hood. When major engine vacuum is lost under the hood it affects the HVAC duct system operation. Good luck.
Tom

Audrey,
To program the key, you need to cycle the ignition key from ‘off’ to run four times without starting the vehicle, and ending in the ‘off’ position. Once you have done this you will hear a faint chirp. After the chirp, push any button on the new fob. There will be another chirp when the fob is programmed. Once programmed, cycle the key once (on and off) and you’re done. Best to you.
Tom

Fadi,
Get the van up on a lift and check the sway bar insulator bushings. They are probably crushed and the sway bar is banging against the underside of the vehicle. Chrysler minivans are noted for making noise in the undercarriage when the sway bar bushings go bad. Success to you.
Tom

Marian,
Chrysler issued a TSB on this very issue. Go to your local dealer and ask them to perform TSB #02-004-05
I have outlined the TSB below for you to reference when you go to the dealer.

GROUP: Chassis
DATE: May 27, 2005
SUBJECT: Creaking/Squawking Sound From Front Strut Area
OVERVIEW: Application of lubricant to the jounce bumper of both front struts
MODELS: 2004 – 2005 (CS) Pacifica
2001 – 2005 (RS/RG) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A creaking, squawking, squeaking, grinding, groaning sound from the front strut area while turning in either direction during low speed parking lot maneuvers.

The repair involves applying a special lubricant designed by Chrysler to the jounce bumpers of both struts. I wish you success.
Tom

George,
Check the door hinge pins by opening the door and lifting up on the bottom of the door. If it lifts up, the hinge pins are worn and need replacing. When door hinge pins are worn, the doors do not seal correctly against the body door cavity, allowing water to come into the vehicle. There are few problems with water leaks on these vehicles aside from worn hinge pins and worn weather strips, which tend to be the major cause.
Tom

Cathi,
Regular checkups according to manufacturer’s suggested maintenance schedules are a good practice to follow. Furthermore, new car warranty requires that these schedules be followed to qualify for warranty claims, should the need for warranty repairs arise. They are usually predicated upon mileage intervals. I have this done to monitor the health of my vehicle. You don’t have to buy all the services suggested, and you can get a second opinion before proceeding with a suggested service. Generally, maintenance is cheaper in the long run than dealing with problems as they arise.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.