Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 GMC Envoy with 54,000 miles. It has a big engine and only gets 15.5 MPG. Although I love my Envoy, I did consider getting a new SUV (maybe a 4 cylinder) to get better mileage and performance, but I can’t afford to do that right now. I heard that there’s a special air filter that increases mileage and performance in vehicles. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what it is? Or is there is something else I could do? Thank you.
Joanie from West Seneca, NY

Joanie,
Yes, there is an air filter that will increase gas mileage and performance. It’s called K&N. Have one installed in your vehicle. In addition, make sure the tires are inflated properly and change the engine oil to synthetic oil. Finally, change the transmission fluid to synthetic, as well as all the differentials and transfer case. This action will also increase fuel mileage because you will reduce friction in these components by using synthetic lubricants. Best to you.
Tom

James,
The engine in your wagon is a 5.7-liter. No it is not a Corvette engine. The Kelly Blue Book value in “pristine condition” is $5,700. That’s all you can expect to get unless you find someone who can’t live without it and is willing to pay whatever you ask. Then you can click your ruby red slippers three times and say to yourself, “There’s no place like home” and then … wake up and smell the coffee. Come on, James! It’s a Buick station wagon!
Tom

Tina,
I have been buying gas from “the rez” for twenty years with not one problem. Over the years I have heard various comments about gasoline from the reservations. For example, it was rumored that the proprietors on the Indian Reservation were irresponsible and did not check their tanks, tank seals, or pump calibration. Also, they bought cheap gas that had water in it to resell to the public, and many other ridiculous accusations. Since my experience said otherwise, I decided to speak to JD, the manager of Seneca One Stop, in an attempt to understand why these rumors have reigned for years. He offered no reason as to why these rumors exist. However, he showed me the tests that Seneca One Stop goes through to ensure that their tanks are water free, do not leak, and pump gas accurately. He assured me that the quality of the gas they buy is the highest quality offered to the motoring public. He stated that, because of the negative perception, they were overly cautious to make sure they had no problems. I cannot speak for any other Indian fueling stations because I didn’t speak to anyone except Seneca One Stop. However I have purchased “Indian gas” from other proprietors and have never had a problem (unlike a few non-Indian stations I have experienced problems with and later confirmed water was indeed in the gas). Why the rumors? In our capitalistic system, businesses compete for our dollars, so sometimes they talk negatively about one another to get a let-up on their competition. That’s just the way of the world.
Tom

Brian,
I have never heard this urban legend. However, I can tell you that the head gasket on your Nissan engine is probably blown, and that your son probably overheated the engine and drove it in that state until the head gasket blew out. This explains why the engine coolant is disappearing. It is being drawn from the cooling system into the engine and out the tailpipe. Have a talk with you son. I am sure he will confirm this suspicion. Have the engine compression tested and a cylinder leak down test performed. These tests will identify which cylinder is leaking. Removal of the head and resurfacing is necessary before replacing the head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
There is a low coolant warning on my ’99 Jeep Grand Cherokee that won’t go away even though I had the coolant serviced. Also, the carpet is wet and slimy on the front passenger floor. Any help would be appreciated.
Theresa from Palo Alto, CA

Theresa,
Have a cooling system pressure test performed on your Jeep. Specifically, have the service tech look for a leaking heater core. Hot water from the cooling system circulates through the heater core. This heat emanates from the core and is blown into the vehicle’s cabin by the fan (this is how the heater works). When the heater core springs a leak, water from the cooling system leaks into the vehicle’s cabin and coolant is lost, hence the cause of the low coolant warning light and the wet carpet. The fact that the water feels slippery tells me that it’s probably anti freeze. Prepare yourself for a hefty repair bill; heater core replacement is very labor intensive. Wish I had better news.
Tom

Daniel,
BMW is great when it comes to customer satisfaction, in this case, I’m sure BMW would help you. Your best bet is to contact the district zone rep for BMW and explain the situation to him/her. Show them your title of ownership and the recent bill of sale for the car and I’m sure they will make an exception to the rule in this case. Good luck!
Tom

Korinna,
The computer needs to be scanned for trouble codes. It has detected a problem with the engine when it’s wet outside and has set a code, turning the check engine light on. Once the computer has been scanned, the technician can perform a set of pinpoint tests to determine the defective part. My guess is that the tech will find multiple random misfires. The tech will probably mist down the engine compartment with a spray water bottle in an effort to duplicate the problem. You’ll probably find that the sparkplug wires need replacing. Best to you.
Tom

Clancy,
The squeak could be coming from the bushings in the control arms, dry ball joint/s, worn strut insulators, or bearings. Get the car up on a lift and have the front suspension checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Rich,
Ignition switch replacement is common on cars with some mileage, but to have so many switches malfunction in such a short period of time makes me wonder if there is another issue affecting the system. The body control module, main computer, the instrument cluster and their respective wiring are all involved in the starting system. It’s going to take some in-depth diagnostics to track down this little bugger! Find a good electrical diagnostician. It will probably serve you well to arrange to leave the car at the shop so they can experience the problem first hand when it occurs.
Tom

Taylor,
I understand your feelings about the truck. My father gave me my first car too and that car meant a lot to me (until I found a Camaro I wanted bad enough, then I traded the Pontiac in). Here’s what you should do. First off, hook a mechanical gauge to an oil gallery in the engine and run it to verify actual oil pressure. If it’s okay, then the vehicle probably has a problem with the oil pressure-sending unit (which is quite common on older vehicles), the wiring to it, or the gauge in the dash. If the oil pressure is found to be low, then the oil pan has to come down and the lower end inspected for worn bearings, oil pump, or the likes. In this case, you might want to employ the service of a professional tech to evaluate the engine before repairing or replacing it. Or, take out a book on engine overhaul and go to it, if you have the mechanical aptitude or inclination. I rebuilt my first engine at 16 years of age, so you’re ready! Call the show and let me know how it worked out. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘02 Toyota Highlander 4 cylinder, 62,000 miles. My local shop sent me a notice to have the EFI throttle body serviced. What is an EFI throttle body and how often does it need service? The vehicle is running fine, so I wonder if this service is really necessary at this time?
Bert from San Dimas, MX

Bert,
EFI stands for Electronic Fuel Injection and Throttle Body is the term for a component in the injection system where air is taken into the engine. Fuel injection systems require cleaning at regular intervals, every 35 – 40 thousand miles. This process is necessary because varnish deposits, dirt, and carbon build up on the end of the injector nozzles, inside fuel rails, inside intake plenums, on the tops of the pistons, and inside the cylinder heads and valves. The cleaning process involves injecting an industrial grade carbon cleaner into the system, and then letting it sit to liquefy any carbon buildup in the engine. A professional cleaning of the injection system and upper regions of the engine usually results in increased performance and better fuel mileage.
Tom

Ruthann,
In regards to the spastic oil pressure reading, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge to confirm actual oil pressure. If it is low, the engine will have to be disassembled for proper inspection of the parts that relate to oil pressure. If the oil pressure is okay, then check for a bad sending unit or wiring to the unit (this is most likely the cause of the erratic readings). The popping sound could be a bad ball joint, control arm bushing shock, or some other suspension part. Get the truck up in the air for a suspension inspection. Success to you.
Tom

Bob,
I can’t answer why the knock appeared so suddenly unless I explored the engine. The cause could be a bad oil pump, excessive sludge buildup preventing oil flow to bearings, bad engine oil, as well as a host of other reasons. Pistons are connected to the crankshaft via a connecting rod. The rod bolts to the crank using a split metal cap. Bearing inserts are placed on the cap and this surface is what rides in the crankshaft journal. Oil is pumped into the bearing saddle and acts as a cushion between the crank journal and the bearing surface. The reason for the knock? The bearing inserts at the end of the connecting rod have worn out, causing a hammering (or knocking) effect when the piston travels up and down. Your mechanic’s assessment of replacement or rebuilding is probably accurate. Before sentencing your engine to death in the bone yard, drop the oil pan and inspect the crankshaft to evaluate the extent of the damage. I wish you success.
Tom

Barb,
If you think the shop will not like the fact that you want to see the parts that need replacing then you are going to the wrong shop (and your husband has the wrong attitude). As a consumer you are entitled to see why the work needs to be done. I suggest you find a dependable repair shop if this tire shop will be offended because you want to see what needs repairing or replacing. Call your local Triple A, ask for an Approved Repair Center in your area, and get a second opinion. As for the ‘lit’ ABS light, the brake computer has to be scanned for codes and the malady repaired (perhaps a speed sensor, broken wiring, or hub assembly). In regards to the transmission question, if the fluid in your trans were burnt or very brown, then yes, I would say to leave it alone because the trans has probably been overheated. When a trans overheats it cooks the clutches and rubber seals. When you replace the fluid on a ‘cooked’ unit, the clutches come unglued from their backing and the unit fails. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

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Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Ford Escape 4X4, 6 cylinder. It seems to drag while driving (it doesn’t glide freely). What could be wrong?
Ray from Corfu, NY

Ray,
Check the rear emergency brake cables. One could be stuck from rust, causing the e-brake to stay applied. Also, check the rear brake calipers for rust on the slides. When rust forms, the caliper stays in the applied position after the brake is used. This condition creates a dragging sensation and causes the brakes to wear out prematurely. After 10-15 minutes of driving, place your hand close to each wheel. If you find one that’s hotter than the others, you have located the stuck brake. Pull the wheel and check the brake. Success to you.
Tom

Ron,
I know you don’t want to hear this but my suggestion is to have a competent shop do a diagnostic on your Cadillac to determine the cause of the drivability problem. Arbitrarily replacing parts simply does not fix cars. I have seen this scenario played out thousands of time over the years and the results are almost always the same, leaving the customer with more cost. Contact your local AAA to find a competent drivability diagnostician near you. Best to you.
Tom

David,
Yes, a power or ground wire could have been left loose. Also, a battery terminal connection could be loose causing an intermittent connection (that would explain the symptoms you described). Get the car back into the shop and have them recheck their work before something burns up from a voltage spike.
Tom

Ray,
In my opinion, the key to the automotive fountain of youth is to follow the severe service schedule for maintenance. If using Mobile One synthetic oil, change the oil and filter every six (6) months. As for Z-Max and other additives, if you follow the severe service schedule and use Mobil One, there is no need for these products.
Tom

Joe,
Sounds like you have a fun ride there, ’56 Chevy with big block power mmmmmmm… I doubt mixing the same type antifreeze from two different makers would result in what you describe. Perhaps a call to both antifreeze makers would reveal more info. In the meantime, I would run a strong flush chemical through the cooling system and fill it with a 50/50 mix of coolant and forget about it. Good luck.
Tom

Jerry,
This problem could be caused by a bad battery ground connection (at the engine block or frame), a dead spot in the starter (which might not show up all the time), or a bad ignition switch. In the case of a bad starter, after the starter spins over the engine, it lands in a dead spot in the armature windings. This results in a clicking sound. Try gently tapping the body of the starter with a hammer the next time it turns up dead. If the truck immediately starts after tapping the starter, you can safely assume the starter is bad. Sorry to say, but you might have to wait until the problem leaves you stranded. It’s very difficult to track down an intermittent electrical problem. I wish you success.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I was told that there is no advantage to using synthetic engine oil over conventional oil. I do not believe this is true. Also, I was told that conventional oil used with a stabilizer would accomplish the same thing as synthetic oil. Is this true? Thanks.
Nick from Bemus Pt, NY

Nick,
Whoever told you that synthetic motor oil has no advantages compared to conventional oil doesn’t know what he is talking about. Synthetic oil is more resistant to viscosity breakdown (loss of ability to flow and thus lubricate) from heat, friction, and chemical contamination (the hostile environment of an operating internal combustion engine). Synthetic oil was originally developed for use in aircraft to address the extreme operating environment of the jet engines. On the intake side, aircraft jet engines operate at very cold temperatures because of the rush of air, ambient temperatures, and venturi effect. On the exhaust side, the aircraft jet engine is very hot. Conventional oils simply did not stand up well under these conditions, so engineers designed a syntheticly fortified lubricating oil to avoid the problems associated with conventional petroleum lubricants. The new formula worked well, so AMSOIL founder and president Al Amatuzio (at the time, a jet fighter pilot in our armed forces) set out to develop synthetic motor oil suitable for automotive applications. The first synthetic engine oil for cars entered the market in 1972. Today’s synthetic oils flow better than petroleum oil in cold temperatures, providing internal protection during winter start up. Obviously, the quality of synthetic oil varies. In my opinion, based on the research I have seen, AMSOIL and Mobile One are number one and number two respectively. Finally, adding a stabilizer to conventional oil does not provide the same advantages as synthetic oils.
Tom

Steve,
The wiper arm has to be replaced. The tension spring (located inside the arm) keeps the wiper blade snug against the windshield glass. When the spring wears out, the wiper arm lifts off the glass. Replace the arm and problem solved!
Tom

Ed,
Small convex mirrors are a good addition to the driver’s side to eliminate blind spots. The passenger’s side mirror is already of the convex design, that’s why it says “Objects May Be Closer Than They Appear.” As for why carmakers don’t add convex mirrors on the driver’s side? Bottom line, cost. End of story.
Tom

Lois,
I checked my database for brake recalls on these vehicles and came up with nothing. Call your local dealer and give them your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to run in their database to make sure there’s no action from Chrysler on this condition. If not, perhaps you ran the brake shoes too long on the car, resulting in failure? Or, if they were replaced at one time or another, perhaps the shop used inferior shoes, causing the glue to crystallize that could result in shoe failure. It’s impossible to tell without seeing the old parts and the service history of the vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Lloyd,
Check for a dislodged vacuum line, crossed wire, or an inadvertently grounded sparkplug electrode either from dirt in the air gap or from the electrode crushed down to the ground position. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of these areas. Best to you.
Tom

Sheila,
First, check the coolant level. It sounds like the coolant is low and an air bubble is circulating through the system. If it is low, then check for a coolant leak. If the level is good, then there could be a vacuum leak causing the air blend door to open and close on engine demand. Check the vacuum lines that feed the heater system. There’s a vacuum chamber in the engine compartment that stores vacuum for the heater system to draw on when needed. That chamber is usually made of plastic and it can crack, resulting in erratic heater blend door operation. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of there areas. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

It’s certainly not new that Toyota is having problems with their vehicles. Week after week the mainstream media seems to come out with a new “update,” much of it simply quoting old news. Let’s take a look at the facts regarding the Toyota recalls and useful information for owners of these vehicles.

The first set of recalls started with what is termed the Floor Mat Recall. In this recall Toyota determined that the gas pedals in some of their vehicles were getting hung up with the floor mats on the front driver’s side, causing unintended acceleration. The next recall was the Gas Pedal Recall. After depressing the gas pedal in some vehicles, it did not completely return to its original position. Next came the Prius/HS250h hybrid ABS Braking Recall, prompted by owners who complained that their ABS brakes felt like they weren’t working adequately. And finally, there is a minor recall of some Tacoma pickups for faulty front driveshafts on 4WD vehicles. There is also an investigation being launched into Corollas for malfunctioning power steering, but there is no recall to date.

Floor Mat Recall

Vehicles involved in the floor mat recall include (info from Toyota’s website):

• 2005-2010 Avalon
• 2007-2010 Camry
• 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2008-2010 Highlander
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2004-2009 Prius
• 2005-2010 Tacoma
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2009-2010 VENZA
• 2009-2010 Pontiac Vibe

Owners of vehicles covered by the floor mat recall should take out any removable driver’s floor mat and not replace it with any other floor mat until they receive the vehicle-based remedy.

After you receive a notification from Toyota that the recall remedy for your vehicle is available, you should take your vehicle to an authorized Toyota dealer. Dealer personnel have been specially trained to implement the following vehicle-based remedy:
Toyota service techs will either modify or replace the accelerator pedals on the subject vehicles to address the risk of floor mat entrapment, even when an older-design all weather floor mat or other inappropriate mat is improperly attached, or is placed on top of another floor mat. Floor surface modifications are also being considered and will be included in the remedy plan for any model for which it is deemed appropriate. For the Camry and Avalon models involved, the shape of the floor surface underneath will also be reconfigured to increase the space between the accelerator pedal and the floor.

Gas Pedal Recall

Toyota discovered that there was a problem with excessive friction buildup on the bottom of the gas pedal of certain vehicles. This condition can cause the gas pedal to stick and, in some instances, not return completely to the original position after being depressed. This recall is in full swing.

Toyota’s accelerator pedal recall is confined to the following Toyota Division vehicles (info from Toyota’s website):

• Certain 2009-2010 RAV4
• Certain 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2005-2010 Avalon
• Certain 2007-2010 Camry
• Certain 2010 Highlander
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2008-2010 Sequoia

No Lexus Division or Scion vehicles are affected by this recall action. Also not affected are Toyota Prius, Tacoma, Sienna, Venza, Solara, Yaris, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser and Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids. Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids are not involved in this action. Further, Camry, RAV4, Corolla and Highlander vehicles with VINs that begin with “J” are not involved.

If you have noticed that your accelerator pedal is hard to depress, slow to return, or is not smooth during operation, the vehicle should be stopped at the nearest safe location, the engine shut off and a Toyota dealer contacted for assistance.

What if you experience a sticking accelerator pedal while driving?

Each circumstance may vary, and drivers must use their best judgment, but Toyota recommends taking one of the following actions:

If you need to stop immediately, the vehicle can be controlled by stepping on the brake pedal with both feet using firm and steady pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal as it will deplete the vacuum utilized for the power brake assist. Shift the transmission gear selector to the Neutral (N) position and use the brakes to make a controlled stop at the side of the road and turn off the engine. If unable to put the vehicle in Neutral, turn the engine OFF. This will not cause loss of steering or braking control, but the power assist to these systems will be lost. If the vehicle is equipped with an Engine Start/Stop button, firmly and steadily push the button for at least three seconds to turn off the engine. Do NOT tap the Engine Start/Stop button. If the vehicle is equipped with a conventional key ignition, turn the ignition key to the ACC position to turn off the engine. Do NOT remove the key from the ignition as this will lock the steering wheel.

Prius/HS250h ABS Brake Recall

(as it appears on Toyota’s website)

Toyota Announces Voluntary Recall on 2010 Model-Year Prius and 2010 Lexus HS 250h Vehicles to Update ABS Software

TORRANCE, Calif., February 8, 2010 – Toyota Motor Sales (TMS), U.S.A., Inc, today announced it will conduct a voluntary safety recall on approximately 133,000 2010 Model Year Prius vehicles and 14,500 Lexus Division 2010 HS 250h vehicles to update software in the vehicle’s anti-lock brake system (ABS). No other Toyota, Lexus, or Scion vehicles are involved in this recall.

The ABS, in normal operation, engages and disengages rapidly (many times per second) as the control system senses and reacts to tire slippage. Some 2010 model year Prius and 2010 HS 250h owners have reported experiencing inconsistent brake feel during slow and steady application of brakes on rough or slick road surfaces when the ABS is activated in an effort to maintain tire traction.

Toyota has responded to owner concerns with a running production change for 2010 Prius that was introduced last month, improving the ABS system’s response time, as well as the system’s overall sensitivity to tire slippage. The production change for the HS 250h is planned for later this month.

The recall will allow Toyota dealers to perform the software update on 2010 Prius vehicles sold prior to this running production change. Only Prius vehicles produced since May 2009 and all HS 250h vehicles are subject to this recall. First- and second-generation Prius vehicles use a different ABS system and are not involved in this campaign. The ABS system on the Lexus HS 250h is similar in design to the Prius. The software adjustment planned for HS 250h production and dealer modification is being finalized and will be announced very soon. Toyota will begin mailing letters to Prius owners included in this recall next week and HS 250h owners within the next few weeks, to let them know when to bring their vehicles into a dealership. Owners will only receive a letter if their vehicle is involved in the recall.

Are Toyota and Lexus bad cars?

I say a hearty NO! The Toyota Motor Company’s reputation is built on a foundation of quality and safety. I believe it is still the basis of the company today and Toyota is moving swiftly to address these issues. The bottom line? It is still a fine car in spite of the recent problems. Toyota will make good on the faulty cars and will rebound as a safety and quality leader again in an effort to regain market dominance. Quite frankly, I think now is a great time to buy a Toyota. Last week, according to Kelly Blue Book, Toyota pricing had dropped an average of 4% across the board. This means a savings of $350 to $700, in addition to the 0% financing (which you never saw until now for a Toyota product). And look for other incentives in the near future to entice buyers back into the showrooms. As I see it, there will be some pretty good deals out there for some fine automobiles.

Well, that’s pretty much the skinny on the Toyota recalls. Call your local Toyota dealer with your VIN number so they can input it into Toyota’s database to see if your vehicle is involved in any of these actions. Or you can go online to: Pressroom.Toyota.com and you will find updates as they come hot off the press. Hope this helps clear things up a bit.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I purchased a used 2007 Dodge Caravan SXT – V6 with 21,000 miles. It gets 19 MPG in the city and only 20 MPG in the country. What can I do to get better mileage? I follow your advice for maintenance and welcome your advice. Thanks.
Ruth from Hamburg, NY

Ruth,
Fuel mileage is subjective to the driving environment, how the vehicle is driven, how it is maintained, and what kind of work it performs. First, make sure the performance system is up to snuff (sparkplugs & wires, air and fuel filter, breather element, and anything else related to the performance system). If these items are not replaced at the proper intervals, fuel mileage will suffer. Based on the low mileage of this vehicle, the plugs could be “carboned up” from lack of use. Have them cleaned and re-gapped. What else can you do to increase gas mileage? Inflate the tires to max inflation rate so they offer less rolling resistance; replace the air filter with a high flow filter like a K&N; and replace the engine oil, transmission fluid, and differential lubricants with synthetic lubricants. All this coupled with maintaining the performance system should net you a few more miles per gallon. Best to you.
Tom

Lee,
If what you outlined here is accurate, then I agree with you. It is entirely too much oil consumption for this engine. Excessive oil consumption is the result of poor piston ring sealing, bad valve guide seals, or sloppy valve guides. If the PCV system were clogged with sludge, then the crankcase would be pressurized. In this case, the oil would be pushed up into the breather system and into the air intake to be burned. Call John Domagala at the NFADA (Niagara Frontier Dealer’s Assoc). He is the director of AUTOCAP (Automotive Consumer Action Program) and John will get the Chrysler Zone Rep involved. Hopefully you will get some satisfaction. John’s number is 716-631-8510. Tell him I told you to call. Success to you.
Tom

Amy,
Let’s deal with one thing at a time. (1) The sloppy ignition key issue is probably due to a worn lock cylinder in the steering column. This requires replacement of the lock/key (removal of the steering wheel and air bag are part of this procedure to access the necessary parts). (2) The wipers have to be checked for a bad internal motor ground or (if so equipped) the wiper delay could be bad (3) The whirring sound by the belt could be a bad serpentine idler, an alternator or power steering pulley, or worn bearings in the water pump shaft. Get it into a shop that can address your concerns … one at a time. Good luck.
Tom

Lillie,
You give me no year, make, or model so my answer will be in general. The first thing that comes to mind is the thermostat. When it goes bad it can either stick closed (causing overheating) or open. If stuck open, the engine doesn’t get hot and thus the heater doesn’t get warm. Also, heater malfunction can also be caused by a problem with a duct door (these doors direct the heated air into the vehicle’s cabin). Finally, in the case of climate-controlled systems, a faulty electronic control module can cause heater malfunction. Hope this helps.
Tom

Randy,
Check the inner axle shaft CV joints. Heavy vibration occurs when they get worn and loose, especially under acceleration. Other common causes of front-end vibration include: loose/worn struts and/or strut bearing plates, loose ball joints, tie rod ends, rack mounts, or internally worn rack. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘88 Mazda RX7 rotary car. I stabilized the gas and backed it into a dry cold garage for storage over the winter. Will this be okay, or should I start the car once in a while?
Mike from Buffalo

Mike,
I like to start a vehicle that’s sitting over the winter at least twice a month and drive it at least once a month, if possible. Why? To keep seals and mating surfaces lubricated. If left too long without running, seals dry up and mating surfaces (when started dry in an engine that’s lost its oil prime) suffer premature wear. In addition, engines, transmissions, and drivetrain components operate better when not deprived of the precious lube they’ve come to rely upon for proper operation. Start two times each month, warm to operating temperatures, and drive when possible. This regimen will ensure that your Mazda keeps going HUMMMMMMMMMMM!
Tom

Bob,
I checked my ALLDATA database for anything pertaining to a no-start condition with this truck and found nothing. An engine needs three things to start: fuel, ignition, and air. Start with an ignition system check: coils, sparkplugs, and wires. If nothing is evident in the visual inspection, then do a computer scan in order to see if there are any codes in the memory. If the system is clean of codes, then the next step is a fuel system check. Hook a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail in the injection system. If fuel pressure is low then the fuel pump could be bad or you could have a plugged fuel filter. If the fuel system is found to be in good working order, then further engine diagnostics are in order to find out if it has proper compression and that the valve timing is in order. You should find the cause of your no-start condition in one of these areas. Good luck.
Tom

Tom,
No poltergeist here. You probably have a bad starter motor. When the armature shaft bushings wear out inside the starter, the armature is allowed to drag on the field windings. This condition eventually causes an electrical dead spot (or zone) to develop in the starter. Sometimes the armature lands on this dead zone after starting the engine, resulting in a no-start condition when you turn the key. Then like magic, after turning the key several times, the armature gets slightly bumped by the solenoid cycling and, like magic, the starter works. Have the starter removed and bench tested. Best to you.
Tom

Bunny,
You did not give me year, make, or model vehicle so my answer will be in general. No, shifting from drive to neutral will not do any internal damage to an automatic transmission. The only thing I can think of that could be affected would be premature shift cable or linkage failure from constant shifting. Otherwise your friend may shift away to his heart’s content!
Tom

Pooh,
Check the transmission fluid level. If it’s low, fill it to the fill line and drive it. If the problem is solved, then low fluid was the cause and you have to find the leak and fix it. If it still slips after filling the fluid, then there’s a problem inside the transmission. Perhaps the low fluid level caused internal damage to the bands or clutches. Also, check the fluid color; It should be red and clean. If it’s dark brown or black the unit has been overheated and might need rebuilding. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ’94 Mitsubishi 3000GT-SL with 121,000 miles. At about 95 – 100,000 miles it started burning oil (no leaks obvious) with blue smoke in the exhaust on startup. In the last couple of months the oil consumption is rapidly increasing. On “general principles” I replaced the PCV valve recently to no avail. On a bulletin board for these cars, there has been talk of valve oil seal problems. Could the seals get to the point where they fail completely and oil consumption take a sudden leap?
Spencer from Australia (Down Under)

Spencer,
Yes, seals could harden and break up, causing oil consumption to accelerate greatly as oil spills down the valve stems and into the combustion chambers to be burned. Pull a valve cover and inspect the valve seals. It’s time to delve deeper into engine diagnostics with cylinder leak-down and compression testing.
Good luck, mate!
Tom

Spencer asks a question that many vehicles experience, namely oil consumption at high mileage. What are the causes? What diagnostic tests should be performed?

Causes of oil consumption

Bad valve seals: The valves are located in the cylinder head above the combustion chamber. Oil is pumped at 50 to 80 psi of pressure into the top of the head, lubricating the valve-train. The valves have seals that stop the flow of oil down into the engine when the valve is open. If the seals fail, oil flows down into the combustion chamber and is burned.

Worn valve guides: The valves are guided by a small cylindrical chamber called a valve guide. These guides wear over time causing eccentricity (slop). The excess gap allows oil to flow down the valve stem and into the combustion chamber to be burned. You might be wondering why the valve seals don’t stop the oil. Because the gap is too large for the seal to work.

Pressurized crankcase due to clogged PCV or breather system: Your car’s engine is a giant pump, therefore it must breathe. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system does just this; it allows the engine to exhaust the excess crankcase pressure that builds up (a natural phenomenon of the internal combustion engine). These gases are captured and fed back into the engine to be burned. Carbon (a by-product of engines) can build up in the PCV system, clogging the breathing passages. This, in turn, pressurizes the oil pan and pushes oil up into the fuel delivery system, where it is fed into the engine and burned.

Blow-by from worn piston rings: The pistons in your car’s engine have seals around them in the form of rings. These rings have two functions: (1) They seal the combustion chamber so that the precious power produced from the firing of the cylinder is not lost. (2) They provide vital lubrication to the cylinder walls. When the rings wear out the pressure from combustion reverses down into the oil pan. Pressure in the oil pan forces oil into the valve covers, through the breather system, back into the fuel delivery system, and into the engine to be burned.

Tracking down the cause of oil consumption

PCV system: Remove the PCV valve with the engine running. There should be a strong vacuum pulling on the valve. If there is no vacuum, the system is clogged with sludge and carbon. It should be cleaned and the valve replaced.

Valve stem seals and guides: Remove the valve cover and shine a strong light on each valve stem. If the seals are gone, then further inspection is warranted. Pressurize the cylinder and remove the valve spring to closely inspect for a worn valve guide evidenced by broken-up valve stem seals).

If nothing is found after checking for a clogged PCV system and valve stem seals & guides, then run a cylinder leak-down test. In this test, each cylinder is charged with 120 lbs of compressed air and the engine is monitored to determine where the air is escaping from the cylinder. If air is escaping from the crankcase, then the piston rings are worn. You can also perform a compression test. Remove the spark plugs and test each cylinder individually for the total PSI of compression. If you find that one cylinder is low, then wet test it. To wet test the cylinder, remove the gauge, squirt oil into the cylinder, and then retest it. If the compression in that cylinder comes up, then that cylinder has worn piston rings. How do we know this? Because when oil was squirted into the cylinder, it filled the gap between the worn rings and cylinder wall, sealing the ring gap and thus increasing compression. In this is the case, consider rebuilding or replacing the engine.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘99 Chevy 1500 Suburban 4×4 with 102,000 miles. There is a whining sound coming from the rear when driving 55-65 mph. I had all the bearings replaced, and the ring & pinion gears show normal wear. Any suggestions?
Thanks,

Eddie from Miami

Eddie,
You failed to mention the rear pinion bearing. Have the lash and the up and down play checked for wear. Also, check the tire wear pattern on the rear tires. They could be cupped, which could also cause the whining.
Tom

Want a little cheese with that whine? (just a little bad humor here) On to Eddie’s question in detail.

What causes whining?
Whining can be caused by worn transmission or differential bearings or races (the surface the bearing rides on), a worn power steering or front transmission oil pump. A simple thorough inspection of the transmission, differential, and power steering system will reveal if there are any bad bearings.

Cupped tires can also cause whining. When tires are left unattended the balance goes out resulting in wheel tramp. In this condition, the heavy spot in the tire gains inertia as it spin causing the tire/wheel to bounce as it spins down the road. The tires develop a cupped tread wear pattern from this bouncing (or tramping). Ultimately it results in a whine. Sometimes rotating and rebalancing the tires will correct the whining problem over time.

Another cause of whining
Worn differential lubricant is another cause of whining. Some carmakers have come out with semi-synthetic gear lubricants that have a specific life and need to be changed according to schedule. If left in too long, they lose their lubricating properties and heat, friction, and whining ensue in the differential. Major gear damage will occur if left in too long.

Mechanically the truck is fine. You’ve rotated the tires, but still have the whine. Now what?
If you are sure the transmission, differential, and power steering are fine and you rotated the tires, it may be time to replace the tires if the noise is too much for you. Some tires have such an aggressive tread lug design that they simply cannot be quieted, so it may be time to buy a tire with a less aggressive tread. Light truck tires tend to be made of a stiffer, heavier rubber compound that lasts longer and is durable. However, the downside is that they are noisy and offer stiff ride characteristics. A less aggressive tread design in an all season or highway tire might be the ticket for you. But there are tradeoffs in making this move. Specifically, these types of tires don’t last as long as the heavy-duty truck tires, although they are much quieter and deliver a nicer ride. It is an individual’s decision. How much noise can you tolerate?

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
Two weeks ago I inadvertently filled my 2004 Toyota Camry’s gas tank with half a tank of diesel fuel. The dealer drained and cleaned the tank and replaced the spark plugs and air filter. The day after I got the car back, the “check engine light” came on, and the dealer said the catalytic converter was gummed up and should be replaced, along with the oxygen sensors. I haven’t had this work done yet. Is it necessary since the car is running well (and there is no rotten-egg smell)? It would cost me over $2,000. Yikes!
Patricia from Vera Cruise, CA

Patricia,
First and foremost, next time you fill up make sure the pump nozzle fits into your gas tank filler-neck before pulling the pump nozzle trigger. The diesel nozzle is larger than the gasoline nozzle; therefore it can’t possibly fit into your gas tank filler-neck. As for the lit check engine light, try running the vehicle for a few weeks in an effort to burn any remaining diesel fuel out of the system. Then have the system reset to see if the light stays off. If it doesn’t, you have done irreversible damage to the catalytic converter and O2 sensor/s and they will have to be replaced. If you don’t like the price quoted at the dealer, get a couple more estimates from reputable independent shops. Good luck to you.
Tom

Carlo,
If I had to cite a weakness on these engines (not the car; overall the car is great), I would have to point to the soft camshafts. The cams in these engines are prone to wearing prematurely. If this was in fact a police car, the engine might be a high performance engine, which would probably have a hardened steel cam and crankshaft. Run the numbers on the engine before buying to verify this. And, as always, have a Carfax Report and a pre-purchase inspection done by a trusted tech prior to plunking down the cashola. Good luck.
Tom

Robert,
Prolonged use of regular gas in an engine designed to use high-test gas will damage the engine over time. A condition called pre-ignition occurs. When the low octane fuel enters the combustion chamber, it pre-ignites before the top of the compression stroke when ignition is supposed to occur. Pre-ignition damages the tops of pistons, face of cylinder heads, and valves. Advise your girlfriend to run the high test; it’s cheaper than engine repair/replacement.
Tom

Sandi,
It could be rod knock inside the engine or it could be an exhaust leak. Open the hood and locate the origin of the noise. Is it coming from the exterior of the engine or from inside the engine? If it is from the exterior, check the exhaust flange where the pipe connects to the exhaust manifold, and check the exhaust manifold itself. It could be a bad flange seal at the pipe, or a blown manifold gasket, or a cracked manifold. If the noise is coming from the inside of the engine, then I would start with an oil pressure test and proceed from there with partial engine disassembly and inspection. Good luck!
Tom

Buddy,
There’s not much you can do other than appeal to the local Ford Zone Rep. Call Ford customer service and contact the Zone Rep directly, because they have the authority to make a decision. Sometimes they are willing to pay for part of the repair. If you have to pay for it or part of it, then get a couple of estimates for the repair and then make your decision. I think you will find that the dealer offers the cheapest deal and the best warranty. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘97 Jeep Cherokee Sport with a 4.0L engine and 167,000 miles. The engine has recently developed a “pronounced knock” that is rather annoying and raises a concern about its dependability. This vehicle is quite solid for its age and mileage, and I would like to keep it going for as long as possible. Although the engine continues to run relatively well, it is becoming increasingly noisy despite using heavier viscosity oils. I don’t know if a serious breakdown is imminent, and I am concerned because I drive the “fast-moving” interstate roads on a daily basis. What should I do to keep this vehicle operating indefinitely? Should I rebuild the engine or replace it?
Sal from San Francisco, CA

Sal,
First off, if you continue driving it in a spirited fashion on the “fast moving interstate roads” on a daily basis in this condition, I assure you that catastrophic engine failure is imminent in short order. That said, major engine repair these days is a losing proposition. In years gone by, engine rebuilding was a viable option to replacement. However, with modern day manufacturing processes and great warranties, the price of replacement-remanufactured engines has come down to the point that engine rebuilding is becoming a lost art and is no longer cost effective. I would look into a remanufactured unit from Jasper Engines if the body is in good shape and the rest of the vehicle is in good working order. Success to you.
Tom

Scott,
There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) from Saturn on erratic shift patterns (bulletin # 01-T-09). It talks about bad connector pins in the shift control circuit. In addition, there is a TSB that has an in-depth diagnostic procedure for the same symptoms. Apparently there are problems with these transaxles. Fixes have run the gamut from replacing the valvebody to wiring harnesses, and reflashing of the drivetrain control module. I believe this one is over your head, Scott, unless you have the factory scanner, tools, equipment, and technical knowledge of the drivetrain systems to track down the cause of the erratic shift patterns. Better take it to the dealer to get it fixed. Good luck.
Tom

Eileen,
The headlight assembly on your car is one molded piece of plastic (called a composite). When the lens yellows, the whole unit has to be replaced. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Tom

Mr. Handy with Tools,
This job calls for 4.5 hours for a trained Ford factory technician to do the job, equipped with a lift and other special tools needed to do the job. My advice? Take it to a qualified tech. Although you are “Handy with Tools,” this replacement task is one for the experts. That is, if you want the car to run after the job is done. You might be able to replace an intake in ’68 model, but with today’s cars it’s no longer a basic operation. It requires scan tools, special factory tools, and the knowledge (re-learn the drivability system after the intake has been replaced). Sorry. “Handy with Tools” just don’t cut it any more.
Tom

Sally,
According to Kelly Blue Book, that car in Excellent Condition will bring $2,225; Good Condition: $1,925; and Fair Condition: $1600. Of course, the selling price depends on the exterior and interior condition. Also, pricing varies depending on where you are in the country and what the year, make, model is bringing at auction and local retailers. Check your local newspapers and see what similar vehicles are going for, then price accordingly. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Jeep Liberty with 48,000 miles. This obviously is NOT a fuel-efficient vehicle. I have the oil changed regularly and tire pressures are maintained as well. This little ‘cutie’ maybe gets 13-15 MPG city driving …YIKES! Is there anything I can do to improve gas mileage now that it costs $70 to fill up? My daughter is using it for college and she has a 25-mile commute with little to no stops to reach the campus. Her friends refer to her as the “old lady driver,” so speeding doesn’t apply here. A side note: My Chrysler Pacific, which is rated poorly for fuel efficiency, has better mileage!
Thanks.
June from Boston, MA

June,
Two things come to mind. Install a high flow air filter like a K&N filter and install an economizer fuel chip. This device modifies the engine management program from the factory (fuel trim is leaned and ignition timing retarded, all resulting in increased fuel mileage). The only tradeoff is decreased engine performance, but you say that you daughter drives like an “old lade” so this shouldn’t be an issue. Finally, practice moderate driving habits: No jackrabbit starts, drive the speed limit, make sure tires are properly inflated, and keep the engine tuned. Best to you.
Tom

Josie,
The term “Readiness Monitor” on today’s cars refers to the self-check monitors in the car’s emissions and performance system. When a Readiness Monitors trips, it means that the system has failed a self-test and the emissions systems are not operating up to snuff. In states where an emissions test is performed, if a Readiness Monitor is tripped, it can fail the emissions portion of the state inspection. The Readiness Monitors can only be reset after the offending emissions system is repaired, the system is reset with a scan tool, and a drive cycle is performed.
Tom

Pepper,
The reason the throttle body gets gummed up with varnish is because fuel is injected into the air stream rushing through the throttle body above the throttle valve. The constant injection of fuel results in gumming up of the throttle valve shaft. Because of this, it’s recommended that the throttle body be cleaned on a regular basis (following suggested maintenance schedule). Best to you.
Tom

Mario,
Have the starter motor checked for excessive electrical draw while cranking. It sounds like the armature bearings are worn, which would cause this condition. When the armature bearings (or bushings) wear out, the armature drags in the field windings inside the starter motor. This would cause the slow dragging cranking speed you hear. A reputable starter rebuilder can confirm my suspicions. Success to you.
Tom

Joe,
Facing the front of the vehicle with the hood open, the radiator drain plug is located on the lower left hand side of the radiator at the bottom of the tank. It’s made of plastic. Make sure you don’t over-tighten it when you reinstall it. Also, make sure you clean the threads of any dirt or debris. Good luck.
Tom

Ron,
First of all, there are no additives that will offer you a “quick fix,” as you call it. Oil consumption is the result of either internal mechanical wear in the engine, or a stuck PCV valve or blocked oil return holes in the cylinder heads from sludge buildup. In either case the fix will involve delving into the problem, not pouring something into the crankcase. Get it into a shop capable of diagnosing oil consumption. Good luck.
Tom

Ron,
According to the Alldata labor and parts pricing guide, the cost for the timing belt is $65.95. Labor w/ A/C: 2.6 hours at the shop’s hourly labor rate. If you suspect the belt was incorrectly installed recently, why not go back to the shop and ask them to make it right? That way you don’t have to pay anything.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
If I want to buy my car at the end of the lease, is the price negotiable? They want $15,000. Will they take less? Thank you.
Anne from WA

Ann,
You didn’t give me year, make, and model so I can’t tell you if this is a good price. That said, you must realize that in car sales and leasing EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE!! Especially when you might return a leased car with mileage on it. The dealer wants to sell the vehicle to keep inventory down. Do your homework and find out exactly what the car is worth based on local market values, vehicle condition, equipment, and mileage. Then negotiate hard, especially since inventories are on the rise again. You should be able to get a better price. Success to you.
Tom

Mary.
Assuming your mechanic ruled out all possibilities regarding the rear suspension and the wheel chair lift supports where they secure to the vehicle body and frame, and based on the fact that the noise was absent without the scooter and present with the scooter, then it is probable that the scooter is not properly secured in it’s holding bracket while the vehicle is in motion, hence the rattle. Have this checked. Best to you.
Tom

William,
The fact that you only hear the “screaming” (as you call it) under load or acceleration tells me that the serpentine belt is probably loose or worn out. This is common when the belt stops biting into the pulleys. Have the serpentine belt checked for wear, tears, or missing ribs. If any of these conditions are evident, replace the belt. If the belt is fine then check the automatic tensioner. This spring keeps the belt properly adjusted and it might be broken or worn out, resulting in a loose belt that would “scream” under load.
Tom

Sandra,
In a word, no. The brakes will not wear out by parking on an incline. However, if you drive the car without releasing the parking brake, the rear brakes will wear out in short order. Why? Because, when the parking brake is on, the rear brakes are applied to either the drums or rotors (depending on if you have rear drum or disc brakes). So make sure you release the parking brake whenever you drive off from parking on one of those marvelous hills in San Fran! Success to you.
Tom

Vern,
You changed the engine mounts, but what about the transmission mounts? If a trans mount is worn out, it will cause the symptoms you’re experiencing. Why? Because the rubber wears out which causes the mount to sink and ground to the frame or engine cradle. If this is evident, engine torque will cause a drivetrain vibration (especially in reverse). Also, check the engine cradle mounts, because they could be loose or bad. As for the roar you’re hearing from the tires? It could be either choppy wear on the tires or a bad wheel bearing. Have that checked as well. Good luck.
Tom

Jim,
If you’re going to let a car sit in the garage with gas in it, pour a bottle of fuel stabilizer into the tank. The stabilizer will maintain the octane and keep the gas from separating and dropping varnish into the bottom of the tank. There are some great fuel stabilizer products out there. Check with your local dealer for what they suggest. One that I swear by is K100G from Kinetic Labs. Their website: www.kineticfueltreatment.com. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,

I recently saw a mechanic on cable TV replace the standard stop light bulbs in a 2004 Honda Accord EX with LED bulbs. I am trying to purchase the bulbs for my Accord, but no one carries them, not even the Honda dealerships I contacted. Do you know where I can purchase them?

Paul from Henderson, NC

Paul,
LED (Light Emitting Diodes) replacement bulbs are very sturdy, waterproof, longer lasting, and brighter than standard bulbs. For this reason our military retrofitted most military vehicles (tanks among them) with this great lighting alternative. It’s important to note that LEDs require a special replacement-bulb assembly. Check out your local speed/accessory shop. They will have an application book for the LED lighting assemblies you need. Good luck to you.
Tom

I own a ‘93 Jeep Wrangler. It died while I was driving it the other day. First the speedometer stopped working, then the radio, and finally the engine quit (it all took about 30 sec). My husband said it sounded like the alternator went bad and the battery died. Actually, the batter was dead so I got a new one and hooked it up. Then my husband replaced the alternator with a new one, and still the car stalls. What’s wrong with this picture?

Marianne from Brooklyn, NY

Marianne,
According to my ALLDATA database, this make/model of vehicle has many electrical problems with the starting/charging system. As a matter of fact, there were two recalls on this vehicle for faulty electrical connectors at the bulkhead connector. Get it to a dealership and have the recalls performed; this should fix your problem. Make sure you explain the problem to them clearly so that they will know what recall applies. The recall repair should not cost you any money. Best to you.
Tom

The front suspension on my ‘94 Chrysler Town & Country is very sensitive to potholes and pits in the road. The car bangs very hard. I heard that there is a pattern problem with the front stabilizer arm bushings on the Chrysler minivans from this period. Is this true?

Don from Kennebunkport, ME

Don,

Go ahead and check the stabilizer bar links. However, the sway bar insulator bushings are the main problem with these vans. When the insulator bushings crush from wear and degradation, the sway bar comes in contact with the undercarriage, banging on it when going over bumps. This is the sound you are hearing. Success to you.

Tom

Recently I changed the oil in my 2005 Corvette. I used Valvoline Fully Synthetic rather than Mobile One because it’s a little cheaper. Is there any difference in fully synthetic oils? I hope the one I used wasn’t a compromise.

Barry from Wash, DC

Barry,

There can be many blending differences in the chemical packages when comparing synthetic oils. Specifically, some blends offer more protection and lubrication. AMSOIL and Mobil One are number one and two respectively. Why chance damage to the very expensive powerplant in your ‘Vette to save a few dollars? You’re okay for now. But next time you change the oil, use the best products out there.
Tom

My son just bought a ‘97 Chevy 3/4-ton pickup to use as a work truck. It has a LOT of miles on it, but it has a new timing chain. The truck also has new spark plugs and wires, and a new rotor cap. However, when the engine levels out, it makes a popping sound (almost sounds like a carburetor backfiring). It has power to spare and runs well under a load, but the popping speeds up with acceleration. Any ideas?

Ray from Joliet, IL

Ray,
Try to isolate the cylinder that’s popping by removing one sparkplug wire at a time while the engine is running. Once you isolate the cylinder, remove that valve cover and inspect the valvetrain while the engine is running. Sounds like you have either a collapsed lifter or rounded cam lobe. I suspect there’s internal engine wear and the engine needs to be rebuilt. You will be able to determine if this is the case when you remove the valve cover and/or the oil pan to inspect the bearings for wear. Good luck.

I own a ‘98 Buick Century with 48,000 miles and it’s in very good condition. However, as the weather warms up, the car acts up. When I stop the car after a long drive on a warm day, I have difficulty restarting it. The car has to sit for about an hour before it will start. Every time I take it to the repair shop they can’t duplicate the problem. Can you make a suggestion?

Samuel from MT

Samuel,

This is obviously an intermittent problem, so you may have to leave the car at the shop for a few days so they can duplicate the condition. That’s the best advice I can give. Sounds like the problem is an ignition component that’s subject to hot soak. But don’t replace any parts until you confirm this suspicion. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site:  www.americascarshow.com

This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.

Dear Tom,

Recently I bought a used Pontiac 2004 Grand Prix as is, with no warranty. I was told the car had no problems. I test-drove the car before buying it and it handled well. Two days later I noticed the lights dimmed when I used the power windows. Also, the temperature gauge dropped while driving. I took it back to the car lot; they checked it and said that it was nothing to worry about and that these cars are known for gauge malfunctions. The next day I lowered the passenger window and now it won’t go back up. Do you think the car might have an electrical problem? If so, how to I handle this situation with the car lot? I spent all my money on the car and can’t afford to repair it. And I don’t expect to, since I just bought it!

Sally from Walla Walla, WA

Sally,

I would run a Carfax report on the car to see if it’s a flood victim. Thousands of cars came out of the Gulf Coast floods as rebuilt flood victims and many end up with electrical problems. Sounds like this could be the case. For the record, these cars are not noted for gauge problems. Just check www.nhtsa.gov and you will see for yourself. After you run a Carfax report, approach the car let owner in a non-accusatory manner and try to come to a solution. Either they can replace the car if you find out it is a flood victim, or they can repair it free of charge if nothing comes up in the report. Good luck.
Tom

I replaced the battery in my 2002 Saturn L300 in September 2007. I replaced it again in April 2008 and again last month! The AAA technician told me that something is draining the battery.  He told me that I would need another one within six months if I don’t find and repair the problem. I had the alternator checked and it’s okay. What else could cause a drain on the battery?

Barbara from Reno, NV

Barbara,
Find a shop that specializes in electrical repairs and have them perform a parasitic electrical draw test. The tech will hook up a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) to the battery and monitors voltage (while eliminating one circuit at a time) until he find the source of the draw. Draws can happen from a faulty electrical component, shorted switch, or grounded hot wire. Repairs of this nature are charged on a time and material basis. Once again, find a shop that specializes in this type of repair. Experienced techs know exactly to find these gremlins. Success to you.
Tom

I own a GMC pickup 1500 series that won’t start in cold damp weather. When it’s dry outside the truck runs fine; it only happens when it’s rainy. Any suggestions?

Ed from Buffalo, NY

Ed,
Repairs of this nature are difficult because you have to replicate the condition. Try spraying down the engine compartment with water, and then try to track down the cause. Electrical maladies of this nature are usually tracked to a poor electrical connection in the ignition system or bad sparkplug wires. Try to follow this procedure in the dark. That way, if the wires are leaking voltage, it will show up as a light show from the arching sparkplug wires. Good luck.

Tom

I own a ‘98 Lexus LS 400 with 190,000 miles. For the last year, I have spent $1,500 on the front end.  First I got the struts changed, then the ball joint and the arm, and then the bushings that are on the top of the struts. When the car goes over a bump at 20mph or over a dip at 55 mph, the front end makes a clicking sound. At the lower speeds (depending on which way I am turning) only one side or the other clicks. However, on the freeway going 55mph both right and left sides click at the same time. My theory is that the replacement struts are too weak (Monroe struts) for this car. The mechanic who replaced the struts with a lifetime warranty doesn’t want to replace the carriage springs.

Dhaval from San Jose, CA

Dhaval,
Have the engine mounts and cradle bolts checked. It sounds like the noise occurs when the powertrain shifts. An engine mount or cradle mount could cause this condition. If all checks out, have a set of “Chassis Ears” installed on the body at the location where you think the noise is emanating. They are a set of small microphones that are attached to a set of headphones. They allow the tech to listen to the noise while driving the car. “Chassis Ears” are very helpful in tracking down tough noises. Best to you.

Tom

I own a ‘93 Toyota Camry and the air conditioning is on the fritz.  My mechanic told me that it would cost around $2,500 to repair it. I am a 70-year-old woman who seems to get ripped off every time I need car repair work. Does this figure seem about right? Thank you for your help.

Nan from Port Ritchie, FL

Nan,

Get a second opinion. I have seen A/C repair run that high, but you didn’t tell me what they are doing for that money. Compressor replacement? Condenser replacement? Dryer? Evaporator core? Retro fit? There are many aspects to air conditioning repair, so get a second opinion from a high quality shop. If you’re not sure where to find a shop, call AAA and ask for one that specializes in HVAC repairs in your area.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site:  www.americascarshow.com

Back then, just about every time you filled up your gas tank, you checked your oil level. In fact, gas station employees did that for you, cheerfully, right after they pumped your gas and just before they washed down your windshield.

Things have changed, with maintenance schedules easing up over recent decades for two reasons. First, cars stand up to more wear and tear these days. And also, the products we put into them are better made.

But your car still requires some upkeep—so here’s our list for the ten most effective maintenance musts:

1. Read your car manual. The manufacturer didn’t print it just to fill the glove compartment. Learn the maintenance schedule direct from the horse’s mouth to stay on track with your new vehicle. And really, your maintenance schedule depends on your car’s age and how you use it.
2. Check your oil level monthly. This is less often than in the old days, but many people don’t even realize they should do this. You must learn here and now that your car engine will die forever if it runs out of oil.
3. Tire pressure should be measured every month, as well. Look in your manual to learn where the recommended air pressure is posted; usually it’s on the door well. Do not go by the numbers that are printed on the tire. Tires that lose air will wear unevenly, perform below standards, and cause your car to use more gas.
4. Rotate your tires every 10,000 miles to keep them balanced. This is a good time to inspect the depth of the tread.
5. Check the cooling and heating system each spring and fall to make certain that your air conditioner is working correctly. This also guarantees proper radiator function.
6. Change power steering fluid yearly to protect your steering system and maintain your suspension alignment. Ask about transmission, brake, and coolant fluids at this time, as well.
7. Clean your car monthly to preserve its finish. If you don’t want to stand in your driveway in your bathing suit, take it through a drive-through. Laser or other non-touch washes are recommended. You’ll thank yourself when the day comes to resell it.
8. About every 3,000 miles, get a complete oil change. Some manufacturers allow you can go up to 5,000 miles because today’s oils have a higher quality base, and—just like your face cream—they contain antioxidants. However, oil exposed frequently to temperature extremes as well as oil in cars doing mostly short trips, with the attendant stops and starts, will wear out more quickly.
9. Air and fuel filters last approximately twelve months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. Changing these is a relatively simple procedure—play some Sixties music if you want to try this yourself while following instructions available on Edmunds.com.
10. When you’ve put about 30,000 miles on your car, it needs its first tune-up. Your mechanic will replace the fuel and air filters, clean or replace the spark plugs, check the spark plug wires, check belts, hoses, and lights, and flush and/or replace your fluids—brake, transmission, power steering, and coolant. This can also include other items such as looking at the PCV valve and oxygen sensor. It’s like a day at the spa for your car!

Just about all breakdowns, electrical or mechanical, can be traced back to poor maintenance. Take care of your car, and it will take care of you.

Car maintenance is your responsibility, but an extended car warranty from Warranty Direct will cover wear and tear repairs on your car. Contact us today for a free quote – we offer extended car warranty payment plans to suit your budget.

A car log is a simple record of repairs, including warranty and recall repairs your vehicle has had completed on it—and much more.

You can make a car log on your own or buy a pre-printed car log at most office supply stores. Actually, a car log folder is better because it can hold all the invoices from your repairs in one place when you need it.

Another good reason for keeping a car log is in the long run, if you have an extended vehicle warranty, it can ensure that you have obtained all the recommended maintenance your owner’s manual suggests. Warranty companies need to know that you have been responsible in your car care and really shouldn’t pay for things because you missed important upkeep.

What to Include

Your car log should be organized properly. The first elements should contain everything about the vehicle when you purchased it, whether it was new or used, its Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), year, make and model—and don’t forget the mileage on the car when you first bought it—that’s important. You should also keep a copy (not originals) of your insurance card, your finance company (if you have one), and if you own the car outright, a copy of the title—keep the original title in a safe place other than your car log.

Vehicle Repair Records

Repair records for every single repair, even if it was a warranty repair should also be kept in your car log—with the repair shop’s invoice. The invoice should clearly state the type of repairs, the cost of the repairs, and the mileage of your car at the time it was repaired.

You should also keep a good record of the gas mileage you are getting each time you fill up your tank. If you find any variation in this, ask your repair shop if they know why this is happening and if you should be concerned. More often than not, getting lower gas mileage can be an indication that something may need to be fixed or is on its way to decline.

The type of tires and tire purchases you have made over the time that you have owned your car are other good things to keep in your car log. Make sure to include the invoice from the repair shop or tire shop where you tires were put on. This invoice will show the type and size of tires you bought and recommended replacement times as well as mileage at time of replacement.

Vehicle Maintenance Reminders

Keep some pages or space in your car log that you can refer to for maintenance reminders. This could include brake pads, lube-oil-filter changes, hoses, belts, and other repair maintenance your owner’s manual recommends. You manual will also give you recommended times these repairs should be completed. For instance on most vehicles, a lube-oil-filter should be performed every three thousand miles.

Miscellaneous Items

If your vehicle has been damaged through an accident, keep a record of the accident and what body and paint facility repaired your car. Keep a copy of the estimate from your insurance company as well as the body shop’s estimate and final invoice. You should also keep copies of checks paid to the body shop on your behalf from your insurance company and any payments you made on your deductible.

Why So Important?

Keeping a car log is beneficial for many reasons but two reasons are high on the list. First, a repair shop can use your car log to diagnose and recommend repairs. Second, if you decide to sell your vehicle, having the life record of the car is gold when it comes to selling it.

How do you purchase the best tires for your car without leaving your couch?

The best starting point for your search can be accessed from your laptop. There are many sites available to you,  so take a stab at it and start “surfing” the web.

A great place to start is at ConsumerSearch.com. You can find lots of general information about what to look for, pricing, consumer recommendations and it also provides a list of other sources that could be essential to making the best tire purchase online. Some of the top listed sources are: Consumer Reports, The Tire Rack and Car and Driver.

Consumer Reports are an excellent resource and provide general articles at no cost. However, if you wish to view specific brands online it will cost you a nominal fee. If you are motivated and willing to leave the comfort of your couch you can scroll through the Consumer Report magazines at the local library for free.

The Tire Rack is another helpful site and perfect for those of you that are feeling overwhelmed with all the tires available. This site helps narrow your search by offering specifics as to tire size, brand and type for the make, model and year of your vehicle. It does the car-tire matching for you!

Have fun with your online search, stay comfortable and make sure once you make a tire purchase that you also protect your vehicle with an extended car warranty.