Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 GMC Envoy with 54,000 miles. It has a big engine and only gets 15.5 MPG. Although I love my Envoy, I did consider getting a new SUV (maybe a 4 cylinder) to get better mileage and performance, but I can’t afford to do that right now. I heard that there’s a special air filter that increases mileage and performance in vehicles. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what it is? Or is there is something else I could do? Thank you.
Joanie from West Seneca, NY

Joanie,
Yes, there is an air filter that will increase gas mileage and performance. It’s called K&N. Have one installed in your vehicle. In addition, make sure the tires are inflated properly and change the engine oil to synthetic oil. Finally, change the transmission fluid to synthetic, as well as all the differentials and transfer case. This action will also increase fuel mileage because you will reduce friction in these components by using synthetic lubricants. Best to you.
Tom

James,
The engine in your wagon is a 5.7-liter. No it is not a Corvette engine. The Kelly Blue Book value in “pristine condition” is $5,700. That’s all you can expect to get unless you find someone who can’t live without it and is willing to pay whatever you ask. Then you can click your ruby red slippers three times and say to yourself, “There’s no place like home” and then … wake up and smell the coffee. Come on, James! It’s a Buick station wagon!
Tom

Tina,
I have been buying gas from “the rez” for twenty years with not one problem. Over the years I have heard various comments about gasoline from the reservations. For example, it was rumored that the proprietors on the Indian Reservation were irresponsible and did not check their tanks, tank seals, or pump calibration. Also, they bought cheap gas that had water in it to resell to the public, and many other ridiculous accusations. Since my experience said otherwise, I decided to speak to JD, the manager of Seneca One Stop, in an attempt to understand why these rumors have reigned for years. He offered no reason as to why these rumors exist. However, he showed me the tests that Seneca One Stop goes through to ensure that their tanks are water free, do not leak, and pump gas accurately. He assured me that the quality of the gas they buy is the highest quality offered to the motoring public. He stated that, because of the negative perception, they were overly cautious to make sure they had no problems. I cannot speak for any other Indian fueling stations because I didn’t speak to anyone except Seneca One Stop. However I have purchased “Indian gas” from other proprietors and have never had a problem (unlike a few non-Indian stations I have experienced problems with and later confirmed water was indeed in the gas). Why the rumors? In our capitalistic system, businesses compete for our dollars, so sometimes they talk negatively about one another to get a let-up on their competition. That’s just the way of the world.
Tom

Brian,
I have never heard this urban legend. However, I can tell you that the head gasket on your Nissan engine is probably blown, and that your son probably overheated the engine and drove it in that state until the head gasket blew out. This explains why the engine coolant is disappearing. It is being drawn from the cooling system into the engine and out the tailpipe. Have a talk with you son. I am sure he will confirm this suspicion. Have the engine compression tested and a cylinder leak down test performed. These tests will identify which cylinder is leaking. Removal of the head and resurfacing is necessary before replacing the head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I was told that there is no advantage to using synthetic engine oil over conventional oil. I do not believe this is true. Also, I was told that conventional oil used with a stabilizer would accomplish the same thing as synthetic oil. Is this true? Thanks.
Nick from Bemus Pt, NY

Nick,
Whoever told you that synthetic motor oil has no advantages compared to conventional oil doesn’t know what he is talking about. Synthetic oil is more resistant to viscosity breakdown (loss of ability to flow and thus lubricate) from heat, friction, and chemical contamination (the hostile environment of an operating internal combustion engine). Synthetic oil was originally developed for use in aircraft to address the extreme operating environment of the jet engines. On the intake side, aircraft jet engines operate at very cold temperatures because of the rush of air, ambient temperatures, and venturi effect. On the exhaust side, the aircraft jet engine is very hot. Conventional oils simply did not stand up well under these conditions, so engineers designed a syntheticly fortified lubricating oil to avoid the problems associated with conventional petroleum lubricants. The new formula worked well, so AMSOIL founder and president Al Amatuzio (at the time, a jet fighter pilot in our armed forces) set out to develop synthetic motor oil suitable for automotive applications. The first synthetic engine oil for cars entered the market in 1972. Today’s synthetic oils flow better than petroleum oil in cold temperatures, providing internal protection during winter start up. Obviously, the quality of synthetic oil varies. In my opinion, based on the research I have seen, AMSOIL and Mobile One are number one and number two respectively. Finally, adding a stabilizer to conventional oil does not provide the same advantages as synthetic oils.
Tom

Steve,
The wiper arm has to be replaced. The tension spring (located inside the arm) keeps the wiper blade snug against the windshield glass. When the spring wears out, the wiper arm lifts off the glass. Replace the arm and problem solved!
Tom

Ed,
Small convex mirrors are a good addition to the driver’s side to eliminate blind spots. The passenger’s side mirror is already of the convex design, that’s why it says “Objects May Be Closer Than They Appear.” As for why carmakers don’t add convex mirrors on the driver’s side? Bottom line, cost. End of story.
Tom

Lois,
I checked my database for brake recalls on these vehicles and came up with nothing. Call your local dealer and give them your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to run in their database to make sure there’s no action from Chrysler on this condition. If not, perhaps you ran the brake shoes too long on the car, resulting in failure? Or, if they were replaced at one time or another, perhaps the shop used inferior shoes, causing the glue to crystallize that could result in shoe failure. It’s impossible to tell without seeing the old parts and the service history of the vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Lloyd,
Check for a dislodged vacuum line, crossed wire, or an inadvertently grounded sparkplug electrode either from dirt in the air gap or from the electrode crushed down to the ground position. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of these areas. Best to you.
Tom

Sheila,
First, check the coolant level. It sounds like the coolant is low and an air bubble is circulating through the system. If it is low, then check for a coolant leak. If the level is good, then there could be a vacuum leak causing the air blend door to open and close on engine demand. Check the vacuum lines that feed the heater system. There’s a vacuum chamber in the engine compartment that stores vacuum for the heater system to draw on when needed. That chamber is usually made of plastic and it can crack, resulting in erratic heater blend door operation. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of there areas. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ’94 Mitsubishi 3000GT-SL with 121,000 miles. At about 95 – 100,000 miles it started burning oil (no leaks obvious) with blue smoke in the exhaust on startup. In the last couple of months the oil consumption is rapidly increasing. On “general principles” I replaced the PCV valve recently to no avail. On a bulletin board for these cars, there has been talk of valve oil seal problems. Could the seals get to the point where they fail completely and oil consumption take a sudden leap?
Spencer from Australia (Down Under)

Spencer,
Yes, seals could harden and break up, causing oil consumption to accelerate greatly as oil spills down the valve stems and into the combustion chambers to be burned. Pull a valve cover and inspect the valve seals. It’s time to delve deeper into engine diagnostics with cylinder leak-down and compression testing.
Good luck, mate!
Tom

Spencer asks a question that many vehicles experience, namely oil consumption at high mileage. What are the causes? What diagnostic tests should be performed?

Causes of oil consumption

Bad valve seals: The valves are located in the cylinder head above the combustion chamber. Oil is pumped at 50 to 80 psi of pressure into the top of the head, lubricating the valve-train. The valves have seals that stop the flow of oil down into the engine when the valve is open. If the seals fail, oil flows down into the combustion chamber and is burned.

Worn valve guides: The valves are guided by a small cylindrical chamber called a valve guide. These guides wear over time causing eccentricity (slop). The excess gap allows oil to flow down the valve stem and into the combustion chamber to be burned. You might be wondering why the valve seals don’t stop the oil. Because the gap is too large for the seal to work.

Pressurized crankcase due to clogged PCV or breather system: Your car’s engine is a giant pump, therefore it must breathe. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system does just this; it allows the engine to exhaust the excess crankcase pressure that builds up (a natural phenomenon of the internal combustion engine). These gases are captured and fed back into the engine to be burned. Carbon (a by-product of engines) can build up in the PCV system, clogging the breathing passages. This, in turn, pressurizes the oil pan and pushes oil up into the fuel delivery system, where it is fed into the engine and burned.

Blow-by from worn piston rings: The pistons in your car’s engine have seals around them in the form of rings. These rings have two functions: (1) They seal the combustion chamber so that the precious power produced from the firing of the cylinder is not lost. (2) They provide vital lubrication to the cylinder walls. When the rings wear out the pressure from combustion reverses down into the oil pan. Pressure in the oil pan forces oil into the valve covers, through the breather system, back into the fuel delivery system, and into the engine to be burned.

Tracking down the cause of oil consumption

PCV system: Remove the PCV valve with the engine running. There should be a strong vacuum pulling on the valve. If there is no vacuum, the system is clogged with sludge and carbon. It should be cleaned and the valve replaced.

Valve stem seals and guides: Remove the valve cover and shine a strong light on each valve stem. If the seals are gone, then further inspection is warranted. Pressurize the cylinder and remove the valve spring to closely inspect for a worn valve guide evidenced by broken-up valve stem seals).

If nothing is found after checking for a clogged PCV system and valve stem seals & guides, then run a cylinder leak-down test. In this test, each cylinder is charged with 120 lbs of compressed air and the engine is monitored to determine where the air is escaping from the cylinder. If air is escaping from the crankcase, then the piston rings are worn. You can also perform a compression test. Remove the spark plugs and test each cylinder individually for the total PSI of compression. If you find that one cylinder is low, then wet test it. To wet test the cylinder, remove the gauge, squirt oil into the cylinder, and then retest it. If the compression in that cylinder comes up, then that cylinder has worn piston rings. How do we know this? Because when oil was squirted into the cylinder, it filled the gap between the worn rings and cylinder wall, sealing the ring gap and thus increasing compression. In this is the case, consider rebuilding or replacing the engine.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2003 KIA Spectra 1.6L. The timing belt broke recently while I was driving down the road. My Car User Manual says to change the belt at 90,000 km. I changed it earlier based on the recommendation by my KIA service department at 61,300km. When the timing belt broke, the mileage was at 111,000 km. This means I have only used the belt for about 50,000 km. I lodged a complaint at the consumer court to make a claim against the shop.

However, the shop came up with an excuse that I have not been servicing my engine with oil and oil filter changes on a regular basis, which caused the timing belt to fail early. Can this be a reason for why the belt broke? I have diligently changed the oil and filter according to factory recommendations (every 10,000 km). I use semi-synthetic oil.

My question to you is: Do oil and filter changes have any bearing on the aging of the timing belt? I know that sludging occurs if I don’t change the oil/filter, but the belt breaking? Your opinion is much sought after … and pardon my stupid question.
Ong from Seattle, WA

Ong,
The only stupid question is the one that doesn’t get asked. Your question is a good one and needs to be answered to substantiate your claim with KIA. First off, oil changes have no bearing on timing belt life or performance. Timing belts break for three reasons: An encumbrance cutting the belt such as a twisted piece of metal from the timing belt cover; excessive soaking of the belt with oil or engine coolant, which causes the belt to soften and break up; and finally, wear from age. That’s about it. Success to you on your claim.
Tom

Effie,
There are many possible causes of an A/C leak. A broken A/C refrigerant line, leaking evaporator core, leaking condenser or dryer, a faulty compressor or a leak in one of the lines. Have the dealer perform a dye test on the system. The tech installs a fluorescent dye in the system and then you will drive the vehicle that day. The next day you bring the car back to the shop so that the tech can shine an ultra violet light on the A/C system to locate the leak (shows up as a bring yellow color). This test makes finding stubborn A/C leaks a snap. Best to you.
Tom

Sergio,
The two problems could be related. Get the car up on a lift and have the rear suspension checked for a bad control arm mounting bushing or shock bushing. Also, check the rear brakes for a hung up brake shoe, bad return spring, loose backing plate, or seized e-brake cable. There’s not much more I can suggest without looking at the car myself. Good luck!
Tom

Randi,
There’s no reason why this car can’t use synthetic oil. Just check your owner’s manual before switching over to make sure. Some manufacturers do not recommend the use of synthetic oil for engine-engineering reasons. The oil change interval with synthetic can be extended from 3,000 miles to 7,500 miles or 3 months to 6 months, whichever comes first. The two best synthetics out there are AMSOIL and Mobil One. Make sure to use an OEM quality oil filter when changing, and yes, 13,400 miles is a good time to switch over. Best to you.
Tom

John,
Make sure the area you are working on is clear of obstruction. ANY component that is in the way should be cleared, alternators included. Next, make sure you center punch the broken bolt so you can drill in the center of the bolt. Use a drill that has variable speed control and drill slowly and deliberately. I suggest you get a titanium drill bit set and start with a small bit, working up one size at a time until you are one size away from drilling out the threads. Once you have gotten to this point, take a tap that fits the hole and thread size and start running the tap into the bolt hole. SLOWLY and DELIBERATELY turn a half turn, then back out and turn a little deeper, then back out, and so on. The tap will cut the old bolt out and find the original threads. Use lubricant and air (if available) to clear the hole of metal. This job can be done if you take it very slowly and meticulously. Good luck. Let me know how it turns out.

Stan,
This is correct. The two chemicals are different in their chemical makeup and if mixed, will react and change to a consistency of Jell-O. This will cause the engine to overheat and blow head gaskets or warp/crack cylinder head/s. Don’t mix the two!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

George,
Rubber wears off the carcass as tires roll down the road. When the tires were originally balanced, they were balanced based on the rubber mass at the time the job was done. Now, 18,600 miles later, the overall rubber mass has changed and thus the trueness of the balance. Based on these facts, I recommend rotating and re-balancing tires every 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. A lot of tire shops offer lifetime rotation and balance service, so you only have to pay for the job one time. I know Goodyear offers this deal. Perhaps there is another shop in your area that does as well. It’s worth it.
Tom

Jim,
A question like this indicates that you are way over your head on this repair. You may want to consider that before proceeding, because it could cost you more in the long run. The clutch bleed screw for the clutch slave cylinder is located on the cylinder (on the bell housing where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch fork). Since this is a front wheel drive vehicle, the slave cylinder should be located towards the firewall. There was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for clutch fluid leakage from the clutch master cylinder on this model vehicle, which would account for the air in the line. Check the brake pedal for brake fluid leakage. If it’s wet, the clutch master cylinder has to be replaced too. The clutch slave cylinder is bled just like brakes. Pump until the pedal gets hard again, hold it down and crack the bleeder screw, and bleed until clear fluid flows out of the cylinder and the pedal is hard. Good luck.
Tom

Louis,
The horn circuit on your vehicle consists of a switch, relay, wiring, horns, and a 20 AMP fuse in the fuse box. Start with the fuse; check your owner’s manual to find its location. Then check it to see if the fuse is blown. If it is, replace it and all should be well providing you don’t have a short in the system. If the fuse blows immediately, then there’s a short in the system that has to be traced. If the fuse is good, then the problem could be a faulty electrical component, wire, power or ground connection. In addition, a bad clock spring can cause loss of power to the horn. It’s an electrical connector with a metal spring design. The clock spring transfers electrical power from the bottom half of the column to the top half where the horn is located. Chrysler issued a recall on this because it also affects the air bag. Check to see if the recall has been done on your vehicle. If not, have it done and this should restore the horn.
Tom

Marsha,
Yes, the dealer is missing something. It’s called a parasitic electrical draw that draws on the battery while the car sits. How do you check for this condition? Hook a voltmeter to the battery and monitor voltage while disconnecting one circuit at a time. When the voltage drops, you have found the faulty circuit. Next you have to trace the circuit until you find the shorted wire or component. Talk to the dealer service manager and ask him to run this test. Best to you.
Tom

Stan,
Yes, I can suggest a fix albeit I don’t know how “cheap” it will be. The wandering could be a loose rack internally, loose rack mounts, loose tie rods, cradle mounts, low tire pressure, worn rag joint at the rack, or worn u-joint in the steering coupler between the rack and steering wheel. Someone is not doing his job to diagnose the problem. Find another shop that’s competent. They should be able find out why your vehicle has wanderlust whilst tooling down the road.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Josh,
According to Honda, the timing belt replacement interval for your car is every 105,000 miles. There is no time interval. Given the age of the vehicle, I would remove the timing belt cover and inspect the belt for cracks or broken ribs. If it looks good, then reinstall the cover and check it again in another 25,000 miles. Your Civic has an interference engine which means, if the timing belt breaks, the valves will collide violently with the pistons, causing catastrophic engine failure. Honda also says to inspect the water pump at the same time you inspect or change the belt because the water pump is driven by the timing belt. If the water pump goes, replace the timing belt too. Why? Because you have to remove the belt (labor intensive) in order to replace the pump anyway, and this should give you peace of mind, knowing you won’t be facing engine failure down the road due to a broken timing belt. Success to you.
Tom

Ray,
At this stage it’s a bit late to change to synthetic oil. You need to find the cause of the engine knock. Chemical changes and “quick fixes” don’t reverse the effects of metal wear and fatigue, which is what your engine is exhibiting. Perform an oil pressure test to find out if the oil pressure is low and go from there. If it’s low, then you need to partially disassemble the engine to determine the extent of the internal wear. My guess? You’ve got internal bearing wear, specifically rod/main bearings, and possibly the oil pump. Good luck.
Tom

Sandra,
The answer to this question is a tough call. On high mileage transmissions, fluid change is a crapshoot because one has no way of knowing the extent of internal wear. When the old fluid is burnt and worn out (dark brown), there is an increase in friction and thus heat. The excess heat reacts with the glue on the back of the clutches and makes it brittle and crystallized. When new fluid is introduced into the trans, the detergents in the fluid scrub the old glue away from the back of the clutches which renders the transmission useless. Take it to the dealer. Have them drop the pan so they know the extent of internal wear, and proceed from there. If the wear material in the pan is extensive, change the fluid in the pan and filter, button it up, and drive it. Don’t do a complete flush.
Tom

Kevin,
Your decision to keep the car and replace the engine is a good one, assuming that you have maintained the car meticulously over the years as you implied. To find a low mileage engine, you have to search the salvage yards. Higher quality salvage yards post engine mileage on the engine AND offer a good warranty that covers parts and labor should the used power plant fail within the allotted time/mileage of the warranty. Obviously you will pay more money for a lower mileage engine. If the yard doesn’t have what you’re looking for, ask them to go on the “Hot Wire” to find one. This is a network of yards that share their inventory with each other to better serve the public and move their inventory. Also, when replacing the engine, make sure you get the emissions-related parts that go with the new engine or you will have problems with the drivability and emissions inspection in your state. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

It really is astonishing that almost everyone you meet will think of themselves as good, safe drivers, but the reality is that the number of accidents on the roads doesn’t necessarily bear that out.

Driving is a learned skill, and there’s very little difference driving in various countries except on which side of the road you drive; other than that most of the planet has similar rules and regulations – whether they’re used or not is another story!

A great place to judge your skills is through this awesome MSN Driving Skills Quiz that really puts you to the test. In most cases it shows more of what you don’t know rather than what you do, as most of us do seem to forget simple things over time.

Among many other little tidbits the quiz asks is when you’re driving in fog, do you use only fog lamps, low beam or high beam? Seems pretty easy, right? You would think that driving with only fog lights on would be the right answer, but all states advise that you drive with low beams on as well, as some vehicles do not have fog lights included.

Questions like this and others like it lend great insight into what skill level you can justifiably bracket yourself, and thankfully at the end of the quiz it not only gives all the correct answers, but goes into detail on the demographic breakdown of those who complete the quiz, like scores per age, scores per gender; it even compares your score to the average from your home state, broken down by age and gender.

Amazingly enough it shows a general tendency for women drivers to be not quite as knowledgeable as their male counterparts, but you shouldn’t take this as gospel!

The main thing is that this is a quick, easy way for you to rate yourself on your driving knowledge level, and making sure you know the law on things like center lane passing, double yellow lines, intersections, and other areas of safe driving.

A little brush up will make you smarter and safer behind the wheel. Make it a fun thing, have your friends and loved ones take it too and see how you compare to each other, find out if he really does know all about driving. It’s fun, it’s free and can only help us all.

Do you know how much money you can save on car repairs? After you take the driving skills test, get a quote from Warranty Direct on extended car warranties. Once again, you may be surprised to discover you didn’t know as much as you thought you did – vehicle warranties aren’t as expensive as many people think, and you can make monthly payments through Warranty Direct’s easy car warranty payment plan.

I was driving west of town to take my teenage daughter’s boyfriend home. It was really dark with little-to-no street lights, and each time I asked Mr. Dream Date a question about the road, he just said “Uh…”  And there was no other traffic, so I couldn’t just “follow the flow.”

I failed to notice when the speed limit changed from 45 to 35mph. That’s probably because the sign was about as big as a playing card. When the officer pulled me over, I apologized for my oversight, and he just warned me.

But even without getting a ticket I was really upset about it! The last time I had been pulled over was 1980 in Oregon, when a state trooper wondered why I drove by his stake-out every day in a car with Pennsylvania plates. (Got a ticket for that one, but the judge dismissed it.)

So after I dropped off the boyfriend, I drove eastward toward home, hyperventilating, eyes darting everywhere. I knew the speed limit was going to change but I didn’t know, when so I stayed at 35. Before I knew it there were spinning red lights shining in my rearview mirror again. It turned out, this different officer explained, the speed limit on that stretch was actually 55 mph. He was suspicious of my nervousness because I kept saying “Uh…,” so I had to tell him what just happened. Once he understood he laughed good-naturedly and gave me my second written warning of the night.

As a result I can say you will find nobody more sympathetic than I am when it comes to driving slow and getting a ticket. And in my defense I would like to make certain you understand there was no traffic flowing in either direction for me to hold up.

But under normal conditions it’s important to drive at the speed limit because by going too slowly you can impede others on the road. Fellow motorists who tool up behind you on the highway are in danger of misjudging how slow you’re going. And they can’t predict what you’ll do next. Yes, it’s true that they carry the responsibility of driving carefully no matter what’s in front of them. But if they’re speeding and you’re creeping, it’s a very unsettling feeling to have someone whomp right up on your rear bumper.  It creates road rage!

The rule of the road requires everyone to keep to the right unless they are passing. That doesn’t give speedsters the right to burn up the left lane. The speed limit sign doesn’t say “55 mph, Scofflaws Keep Left.”  But there’s nothing more frustrating if you want to maintain that five-mile comfort range above the speed limit than the driver who crawls along even a tad below the speed limit in the left-hand lane.

Nor do the states make it easy on us!  Each state has its own version of what you’re allowed to do in the left lane. In Pennsylvania, you can pass only on the left. So if you are driving happily along in the right-hand lane and you come across Slow Moses chugging slowly along in the left-hand lane, technically speaking you are not supposed to pass him on the right.

In several states, including Maine and Kentucky, you can only use the left-hand lane for passing or turning left.  I can visualize that working for Maine’s laid-back fishermen or Kentucky’s blue grass farmers. But this same law applies to Illinois and Massachusetts. When’s the last time you drove the Loop around Chicago or drag-raced with your right-lane buddies on the Boston freeways?

There are a lot of useful reasons for driving slowly. Raise your hand if you saw a movie called “National Lampoon’s Vacation.” Remember that, with Chevy Chase? Remember how he put the grandma in her rocking chair on the roof of the car after she died? If he’d been driving at the speed limit, she would have fallen off for sure. And let’s not even talk about the dog.

There are decals you can buy for your windshield that tell the driver in front of you to move over. They actually spell out the words in reverse-image letters so that said driver can read them in his rearview mirror, and they even come with a big arrow kindly showing Slowpoke which side of the road is his. Nobody wants tailgaters coming up so close behind them they can read the labels in their BVDs, so most people reportedly respond cooperatively to these signs. Caveat driver, however, if you live in one of the states—of course this includes Pennsylvania—where it’s illegal to apply recreational decals to your windshield.

So the next time you look in your rearview mirror, if you see traffic backed up behind you, these are your choices. You can pull nicely over to the right lane and keep going. Or you can stop and tie a rocking chair to the roof of your car.

You’ll save money by avoiding tickets for driving too fast or too slow. You can also save money by getting an extended warranty for your car. Learn how when you get a free, no obligation quote from Warranty Direct.