Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 GMC Envoy with 54,000 miles. It has a big engine and only gets 15.5 MPG. Although I love my Envoy, I did consider getting a new SUV (maybe a 4 cylinder) to get better mileage and performance, but I can’t afford to do that right now. I heard that there’s a special air filter that increases mileage and performance in vehicles. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what it is? Or is there is something else I could do? Thank you.
Joanie from West Seneca, NY

Joanie,
Yes, there is an air filter that will increase gas mileage and performance. It’s called K&N. Have one installed in your vehicle. In addition, make sure the tires are inflated properly and change the engine oil to synthetic oil. Finally, change the transmission fluid to synthetic, as well as all the differentials and transfer case. This action will also increase fuel mileage because you will reduce friction in these components by using synthetic lubricants. Best to you.
Tom

James,
The engine in your wagon is a 5.7-liter. No it is not a Corvette engine. The Kelly Blue Book value in “pristine condition” is $5,700. That’s all you can expect to get unless you find someone who can’t live without it and is willing to pay whatever you ask. Then you can click your ruby red slippers three times and say to yourself, “There’s no place like home” and then … wake up and smell the coffee. Come on, James! It’s a Buick station wagon!
Tom

Tina,
I have been buying gas from “the rez” for twenty years with not one problem. Over the years I have heard various comments about gasoline from the reservations. For example, it was rumored that the proprietors on the Indian Reservation were irresponsible and did not check their tanks, tank seals, or pump calibration. Also, they bought cheap gas that had water in it to resell to the public, and many other ridiculous accusations. Since my experience said otherwise, I decided to speak to JD, the manager of Seneca One Stop, in an attempt to understand why these rumors have reigned for years. He offered no reason as to why these rumors exist. However, he showed me the tests that Seneca One Stop goes through to ensure that their tanks are water free, do not leak, and pump gas accurately. He assured me that the quality of the gas they buy is the highest quality offered to the motoring public. He stated that, because of the negative perception, they were overly cautious to make sure they had no problems. I cannot speak for any other Indian fueling stations because I didn’t speak to anyone except Seneca One Stop. However I have purchased “Indian gas” from other proprietors and have never had a problem (unlike a few non-Indian stations I have experienced problems with and later confirmed water was indeed in the gas). Why the rumors? In our capitalistic system, businesses compete for our dollars, so sometimes they talk negatively about one another to get a let-up on their competition. That’s just the way of the world.
Tom

Brian,
I have never heard this urban legend. However, I can tell you that the head gasket on your Nissan engine is probably blown, and that your son probably overheated the engine and drove it in that state until the head gasket blew out. This explains why the engine coolant is disappearing. It is being drawn from the cooling system into the engine and out the tailpipe. Have a talk with you son. I am sure he will confirm this suspicion. Have the engine compression tested and a cylinder leak down test performed. These tests will identify which cylinder is leaking. Removal of the head and resurfacing is necessary before replacing the head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I saw your article on AOL Autos regarding pre-purchase inspections and it was very helpful. I am thinking of purchasing a ‘73 Chevy P-10 (Original Ice Cream Truck), but it is in rough condition and needs restoration. It has some rust on the axle, brake lines, and leaf springs. The engine and engine block are coated with what looks like years of caked-on oil deposits. It has an aluminum body that is in decent shape visibly. I did not notice any leaks on the ground near or around the vehicle. I want to restore the vehicle for various events, but I don’t have much money. The work would be done the Restoration Company located in New Jersey (the truck is in Connecticut). Do you know a company that could do the type of pre-purchase inspection that you wrote about? Can it be done on location? The restoration company has recommended a compression test. Can this be done on-site? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Paul from Cherry Hill, NJ

Paul,
Any competent repair facility can perform a pre-purchase inspection on this vehicle. All that’s required is a lift and some basic tools. Ideally, you also should have a compression test and a charging system analysis (so you can see if there are any electrically problems). I also recommend an oil pressure test to make sure there are no internal engine problems. The truck probably has point ignition, so a simple tach/dwell meter will reveal any glitches in the ignition system. Also, check the brakes, steering & suspension, and the brake / fuel lines for integrity as these tend to rust over the years. A trained tech, armed with a complete checklist, should be able to give you a good idea as to the vehicle’s integrity before you plunk down the cash-ola for the Good Humor Man’s former ride. Good luck to you.
Tom

Bobbi Ann,
What can I say? Your beloved “Heartbeat of America” has cardiac arrest. The engine has to be removed and either be replaced or rebuilt. I would replace it with a remanufactured engine from a company such as Jasper Engines, so that the new power plant will be just like a new one (and at less cost than rebuilding the old one). As for the tach racing up when you step on the gas, check the transmission fluid. If it’s low, top it off and see if that solves the problem. If the problem is solved then you have a leak that must be repaired. If the fluid is burnt and dark brown or black, the transmission probably needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Your Camaro has given you many years of reliable service, now it’s time to either refurbish it or put it out to pasture. Only you can make that decision. Best to you.
Tom

Rick,
Sounds like the car has a parasitic electrical occurring when the key is off. No, you should not have to turn everything off inside the vehicle when you exit. There is something draining the battery. Have the shop perform an electrical draw test to track down the cause of the drain. During this test, a DVOH (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) is hooked up to the battery. The tech will eliminate each circuit until the draw goes away, identifying the offending circuit. Then he/she will trace the circuit to find the cause of the draw. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
There is a low coolant warning on my ’99 Jeep Grand Cherokee that won’t go away even though I had the coolant serviced. Also, the carpet is wet and slimy on the front passenger floor. Any help would be appreciated.
Theresa from Palo Alto, CA

Theresa,
Have a cooling system pressure test performed on your Jeep. Specifically, have the service tech look for a leaking heater core. Hot water from the cooling system circulates through the heater core. This heat emanates from the core and is blown into the vehicle’s cabin by the fan (this is how the heater works). When the heater core springs a leak, water from the cooling system leaks into the vehicle’s cabin and coolant is lost, hence the cause of the low coolant warning light and the wet carpet. The fact that the water feels slippery tells me that it’s probably anti freeze. Prepare yourself for a hefty repair bill; heater core replacement is very labor intensive. Wish I had better news.
Tom

Daniel,
BMW is great when it comes to customer satisfaction, in this case, I’m sure BMW would help you. Your best bet is to contact the district zone rep for BMW and explain the situation to him/her. Show them your title of ownership and the recent bill of sale for the car and I’m sure they will make an exception to the rule in this case. Good luck!
Tom

Korinna,
The computer needs to be scanned for trouble codes. It has detected a problem with the engine when it’s wet outside and has set a code, turning the check engine light on. Once the computer has been scanned, the technician can perform a set of pinpoint tests to determine the defective part. My guess is that the tech will find multiple random misfires. The tech will probably mist down the engine compartment with a spray water bottle in an effort to duplicate the problem. You’ll probably find that the sparkplug wires need replacing. Best to you.
Tom

Clancy,
The squeak could be coming from the bushings in the control arms, dry ball joint/s, worn strut insulators, or bearings. Get the car up on a lift and have the front suspension checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Rich,
Ignition switch replacement is common on cars with some mileage, but to have so many switches malfunction in such a short period of time makes me wonder if there is another issue affecting the system. The body control module, main computer, the instrument cluster and their respective wiring are all involved in the starting system. It’s going to take some in-depth diagnostics to track down this little bugger! Find a good electrical diagnostician. It will probably serve you well to arrange to leave the car at the shop so they can experience the problem first hand when it occurs.
Tom

Taylor,
I understand your feelings about the truck. My father gave me my first car too and that car meant a lot to me (until I found a Camaro I wanted bad enough, then I traded the Pontiac in). Here’s what you should do. First off, hook a mechanical gauge to an oil gallery in the engine and run it to verify actual oil pressure. If it’s okay, then the vehicle probably has a problem with the oil pressure-sending unit (which is quite common on older vehicles), the wiring to it, or the gauge in the dash. If the oil pressure is found to be low, then the oil pan has to come down and the lower end inspected for worn bearings, oil pump, or the likes. In this case, you might want to employ the service of a professional tech to evaluate the engine before repairing or replacing it. Or, take out a book on engine overhaul and go to it, if you have the mechanical aptitude or inclination. I rebuilt my first engine at 16 years of age, so you’re ready! Call the show and let me know how it worked out. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘02 Toyota Highlander 4 cylinder, 62,000 miles. My local shop sent me a notice to have the EFI throttle body serviced. What is an EFI throttle body and how often does it need service? The vehicle is running fine, so I wonder if this service is really necessary at this time?
Bert from San Dimas, MX

Bert,
EFI stands for Electronic Fuel Injection and Throttle Body is the term for a component in the injection system where air is taken into the engine. Fuel injection systems require cleaning at regular intervals, every 35 – 40 thousand miles. This process is necessary because varnish deposits, dirt, and carbon build up on the end of the injector nozzles, inside fuel rails, inside intake plenums, on the tops of the pistons, and inside the cylinder heads and valves. The cleaning process involves injecting an industrial grade carbon cleaner into the system, and then letting it sit to liquefy any carbon buildup in the engine. A professional cleaning of the injection system and upper regions of the engine usually results in increased performance and better fuel mileage.
Tom

Ruthann,
In regards to the spastic oil pressure reading, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge to confirm actual oil pressure. If it is low, the engine will have to be disassembled for proper inspection of the parts that relate to oil pressure. If the oil pressure is okay, then check for a bad sending unit or wiring to the unit (this is most likely the cause of the erratic readings). The popping sound could be a bad ball joint, control arm bushing shock, or some other suspension part. Get the truck up in the air for a suspension inspection. Success to you.
Tom

Bob,
I can’t answer why the knock appeared so suddenly unless I explored the engine. The cause could be a bad oil pump, excessive sludge buildup preventing oil flow to bearings, bad engine oil, as well as a host of other reasons. Pistons are connected to the crankshaft via a connecting rod. The rod bolts to the crank using a split metal cap. Bearing inserts are placed on the cap and this surface is what rides in the crankshaft journal. Oil is pumped into the bearing saddle and acts as a cushion between the crank journal and the bearing surface. The reason for the knock? The bearing inserts at the end of the connecting rod have worn out, causing a hammering (or knocking) effect when the piston travels up and down. Your mechanic’s assessment of replacement or rebuilding is probably accurate. Before sentencing your engine to death in the bone yard, drop the oil pan and inspect the crankshaft to evaluate the extent of the damage. I wish you success.
Tom

Barb,
If you think the shop will not like the fact that you want to see the parts that need replacing then you are going to the wrong shop (and your husband has the wrong attitude). As a consumer you are entitled to see why the work needs to be done. I suggest you find a dependable repair shop if this tire shop will be offended because you want to see what needs repairing or replacing. Call your local Triple A, ask for an Approved Repair Center in your area, and get a second opinion. As for the ‘lit’ ABS light, the brake computer has to be scanned for codes and the malady repaired (perhaps a speed sensor, broken wiring, or hub assembly). In regards to the transmission question, if the fluid in your trans were burnt or very brown, then yes, I would say to leave it alone because the trans has probably been overheated. When a trans overheats it cooks the clutches and rubber seals. When you replace the fluid on a ‘cooked’ unit, the clutches come unglued from their backing and the unit fails. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I bought a new 2010 Audi A4 in August of last year. Two months and 1600 miles later the oil light went on and the oil level was at the minimum line on the dipstick. It required a quart of oil. When I called the Audi service at the dealership they said that’s normal and that the Audi engine burns oil to the tune of about a quart every 2,000 miles. Is this true? I always thought having to put oil in meant leaking seals, gasket gone, or some other problem. What do you say?
Rod from IA

Rod,
Commonly, during the break-in period, an engine will “use” (not burn) oil. Why? Because mating surfaces are being established and metal is rubbing against metal causing friction. This process increases the operating temperatures and consequently uses oil. Now that the engine has 1500 miles on it, switch over to synthetic oil, which stands up to friction, heat, and chemical contamination much better than conventional petroleum based oil. If the engine continues to use oil at this rate, I would lodge a complaint with customer service so that it is a matter of record when and if the engine fails prematurely.
Tom

Christian,
What do you tell the folks when you have your A/C serviced? Exactly what you told me! That will lead them to a system analysis including a head pressure test, This will tell the tech if there’s a stoppage in refrigerant flow (which I think is causing the freezing of the refrigerant regulating valve in the system). Also, check the air blend doors to make sure they’re staying open when the system is in operation, because a stuck or broken air blend door will shut off cabin airflow. Let the techs do their job. Don’t tell them what to fix or replace or you might get what you ask for and not an effective repair.
Tom

Ray,
Sounds like there is condensation buildup from a plugged drain in the HVAC box. When organic material (leaves and plant matter) get into the air intake at the base of the windshield, it rots and forms a black paste that plugs the condensation drain. This causes water to build up in the box and blow into the vehicle in the form of a mist. Have the drain checked and unplugged to stop the misting problem. As for the cat-urine-like smell, when water does not drain, mold spores grow in the evaporator case, producing the offensive odor. Try spraying a whole can of Lysol into the air intake with the A/C running. This will kill the mold and eliminate the smell. If it doesn’t, the case will have to come apart in order to check for a bad evaporator core. Best to you.
Tom

Peter,
The best advice I can give is to find another shop capable of tracking down such a problem. A vacuum leak should not be hard to find. Either a line or vacuum driven component such as a power brake booster is leaking, or the intake gasket or manifold is leaking. Have a vacuum gauge attached to the intake manifold and read the vacuum. If it is vacillating wildly on the face of the gauge there’s a vacuum leak in the engine, probably in the intake manifold. Try spraying carbon cleaner at the base of the intake. If the engine picks up and/or smoothes out then you have found your vacuum leak. Good luck!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

1. Rust-Proofing: Some dealers charge up to $800 for this service, which sometimes amounts to no more than spraying a coating from an aerosol can in the wheel wells.
2. Fabric Protection: For a couple of hundred dollars, some dealers will try to sell you fabric protection for your car’s interior that will repel stains. You know it as Scotchgard.
3. Paint Sealant: This is another instance where the dealership hopes the car buyer will be gullible enough to believe that it’s using some special technique and material that’ll keep your car’s paint looking factory fresh
4. Window Etching: Another easy-money markup for car dealers; they etch your vehicle’s VIN on a window so that your car can allegedly be tracked in case it’s stolen.
5. Alarm System: Many cars come with a basic form of security, such as coded keys, but many dealers will also try to sell you a full-featured alarm system.
6. Extended Warranty: Since vehicles come with longer and more comprehensive warranties these days, extended warranties are usually not worth the extra money. If you plan to hang onto the vehicle for a long time, an extended warranty can be a good investment if and when your car needs major repairs. But don’t buy it from the dealer, since you can often get a better deal through independent insurers, such as Warranty Direct.
7. CD Changer: The price of a CD changer at a dealership can be twice what it is at a car stereo shop or electronics store.
8. Rear-Seat Video: Whether to choose this dealer option is not as easy to decide as the ones above.

Consumer Reports says almost the same thing:

“Dealerships often try to sell you extras that boost their profit margin but are a waste of you money. They can include rustproofing, fabric protection, paint protectant, or VIN etching, in which the vehicle identification number is etched onto the windows to deter thieves. Don’t accept those unnecessary services and fees. If you see those items on the bill of sale and you haven’t agreed to them, simply cross them out and refuse to pay for them. Vehicle bodies are already coated to protect against rust. And recent CR reliability surveys show that rust is not a major problem with modern cars. You can treat upholstery and apply paint protectant yourself with good off-the-shelf products that cost only a few dollars. If you decide you want VIN etching, you can buy a kit to do it yourself for less than $25, instead of the $200 that some dealerships charge. Also think twice about an extended warranty. It can cost hundreds of dollars. But if you buy a model with good reliability or if you expect to have the vehicle only for five years or less, it often isn’t worth the cost.”

Regarding Car Warranties, US News & World Report says:

“The dealer’s extended warranty isn’t necessarily the best deal; in fact, it usually costs more. Plus, you’re in a high-pressure situation at the dealer and might not be able to read the fine print. Finally, if you buy the dealer’s extended warranty, you might be required to return to that dealership to get it honored – which could become a problem if you move.”

So save yourself some money:

• Skip the rust proofing
• Buy your own can of Scotchguard for your cloth upholstery as well as the carpeting and matting
• Say no to paint sealant which is often just a wax job that you can do yourself or pay the neighbor’s kids to do
• For your alarm upgraded stereo and video systems you can often find a better system cheaper at your local car stereo shop or a big box retailer like Best Buy
• Window Etching – check with your local police or sheriff department – a lot of them hold free etching days like the Amhearst Police Department
• Car Warranty or Vehicle Service Contract – contact Warranty Direct at 800-632-4222 for your best deal on an Auto Warranty

Dear Tom,
I drive a 98′ Honda Civic with 40K miles (automatic transmission). Lately the transmission seems to be amiss. Sometimes the car seems to downshift or lurch slightly. I told my husband about it and he asked me if the “check engine light” comes on, and I told him no. He said not to worry about it. However, I have a feeling that he is just too lazy to check it out himself. Should I be concerned? Also, my mom changes the oil every 3,000 miles on her car. Is it okay if we change it every 5,000 miles instead? Thanks for your help.
Deb from Little Rock, AR

Deb,
There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Honda for this very condition on your transmission (bulletin # 00-012). Call your local Honda dealer and ask them what this TSB entails. As for the mileage recommendation, if you are using synthetic oil, then every 5000 miles is fine. If you are using conventional oil, then stick with every 3,000 miles. Good luck.
Tom

Jim,
Who told you this? The dealer? Your Uncle Charlie who used to work on cars back in the 60’s? Unless stated specifically in the warranty or owner’s manual, this is false. The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act of 1972 protects against this sort of thing. It states that the manufacturer carries the burden of proof of any failure whatsoever. They must prove that the installation of the aftermarket product caused the problem. If they can’t, then you are covered. Period. Get the facts straight before changing back. By the way, changing between synthetic and conventional oil does no harm to the engine. Success to you.
Tom

May,
The light is on because the drivetrain computer sees an anomaly in the system. Have the vehicle scanned for codes to identify the cause and repair it. The fact that the vehicle has a hard time rolling concerns me. It could be that the transfer case is locking up due to an electrical malady. Get it scanned and fixed before you do irreversible damage to the drivetrain. Best to you.
Tom

Mark,
Check the brake calipers to see if they are sticking. Also, check to see if there is a blocked rubber brake hose. Both of these conditions could cause the brakes to stay applied with your foot off the brake pedal, which would cause the rotors to heat up and warp. Rotor warpage causes run-out, resulting in pedal pulsation. Also check for worn inboard CV Joints, which could cause the pulsation as well.
Tom

Jean,
It sounds like there’s a problem with the gas tank vent valve, or the gas cap seal, or the evaporative emissions system. Go to the shop immediately after filling the vehicle when the light is on so that they can pull a code for diagnosis. Or you can schedule to leave the vehicle with the shop for a few days. Make sure the gas tank is low so they have to fill it. When the light comes on, they can scan for a code and track down the problem. Best to you.
Tom

Josh,
Check the emergency brake cable on the side that’s overheating. It sounds like the cable has seized, causing the brake to stay applied. Other conditions that cause brakes to hang up are worn return springs, loose anchor springs, and leaking wheel cylinders. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Jeep Liberty with 48,000 miles. This obviously is NOT a fuel-efficient vehicle. I have the oil changed regularly and tire pressures are maintained as well. This little ‘cutie’ maybe gets 13-15 MPG city driving …YIKES! Is there anything I can do to improve gas mileage now that it costs $70 to fill up? My daughter is using it for college and she has a 25-mile commute with little to no stops to reach the campus. Her friends refer to her as the “old lady driver,” so speeding doesn’t apply here. A side note: My Chrysler Pacific, which is rated poorly for fuel efficiency, has better mileage!
Thanks.
June from Boston, MA

June,
Two things come to mind. Install a high flow air filter like a K&N filter and install an economizer fuel chip. This device modifies the engine management program from the factory (fuel trim is leaned and ignition timing retarded, all resulting in increased fuel mileage). The only tradeoff is decreased engine performance, but you say that you daughter drives like an “old lade” so this shouldn’t be an issue. Finally, practice moderate driving habits: No jackrabbit starts, drive the speed limit, make sure tires are properly inflated, and keep the engine tuned. Best to you.
Tom

Josie,
The term “Readiness Monitor” on today’s cars refers to the self-check monitors in the car’s emissions and performance system. When a Readiness Monitors trips, it means that the system has failed a self-test and the emissions systems are not operating up to snuff. In states where an emissions test is performed, if a Readiness Monitor is tripped, it can fail the emissions portion of the state inspection. The Readiness Monitors can only be reset after the offending emissions system is repaired, the system is reset with a scan tool, and a drive cycle is performed.
Tom

Pepper,
The reason the throttle body gets gummed up with varnish is because fuel is injected into the air stream rushing through the throttle body above the throttle valve. The constant injection of fuel results in gumming up of the throttle valve shaft. Because of this, it’s recommended that the throttle body be cleaned on a regular basis (following suggested maintenance schedule). Best to you.
Tom

Mario,
Have the starter motor checked for excessive electrical draw while cranking. It sounds like the armature bearings are worn, which would cause this condition. When the armature bearings (or bushings) wear out, the armature drags in the field windings inside the starter motor. This would cause the slow dragging cranking speed you hear. A reputable starter rebuilder can confirm my suspicions. Success to you.
Tom

Joe,
Facing the front of the vehicle with the hood open, the radiator drain plug is located on the lower left hand side of the radiator at the bottom of the tank. It’s made of plastic. Make sure you don’t over-tighten it when you reinstall it. Also, make sure you clean the threads of any dirt or debris. Good luck.
Tom

Ron,
First of all, there are no additives that will offer you a “quick fix,” as you call it. Oil consumption is the result of either internal mechanical wear in the engine, or a stuck PCV valve or blocked oil return holes in the cylinder heads from sludge buildup. In either case the fix will involve delving into the problem, not pouring something into the crankcase. Get it into a shop capable of diagnosing oil consumption. Good luck.
Tom

Ron,
According to the Alldata labor and parts pricing guide, the cost for the timing belt is $65.95. Labor w/ A/C: 2.6 hours at the shop’s hourly labor rate. If you suspect the belt was incorrectly installed recently, why not go back to the shop and ask them to make it right? That way you don’t have to pay anything.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

In order to circumvent these special licensing requirements set forth, there has been a recent influx of product warranties being offered on the internet by a variety of extended warranty brokers. Product Warranties are not licensed, are not closely regulated, and do not have to be guaranteed by an insurance company. Even if a product warranty purports to be backed by an insurance company, the insurance company may not be licensed, financially strong, or actually back the warranty.

Warranty Direct has been licensed as a warranty provider in all states. In addition all of our plans are insured by an A- Excellent AM Best rated insurance company. For further information, please call one of our Certified Advisors at 1-800-632-4222. Click here to update and view your quote.

Some questionable terms found in product warranties are as follows:

• Vehicle Protection Kit ? The administrator will ship the Vehicle Protection Kit to the purchaser of this product warranty upon remittance of this agreement from the seller. The kit contains products for vehicle protection with instructions and other important information pertaining to this product warranty.
• The total of claims paid shall not exceed the wholesale value of the vehicle at the time of claim initiation.
• Purchasers may not perform their own maintenance for product warranty requirements.
• Pre-Existing ? A condition to a covered component of the vehicle, whether known or unknown to the purchaser, that existed prior to the product warranty purchase date or which may reasonable be assumed to have existed prior to the product warranty purchase date.

Sadly, unlicensed warranty sellers have become epidemic. Buying from an unlicensed warranty seller is risky as they do not meet the high standards required by your state. In order to be licensed, a warranty firm must be financially viable, operate within the laws and file their rates with the state. Unlicensed firms may offer no protection to you should the company go out of business. A licensed seller will be audited annually to make sure their finances are in order.

Many of the unregulated companies offering these plans are referring to them as bumper to bumper coverage, even though they only cover a short list of items. A lot of this misinformation is causing consumers a lot of confusion about the coverage they actually have. Sadly, most people won’t realize that they bought a worthless plan until they have a major claim denied.

Read more about product warranties at the St. Louis Post-Dispatch.

Just because it’s on the Internet, it doesn’t make it true. And nowhere is this more true than when looking at "Miraculous Systems That Will Run Your Car Off Of Water." Usually put together with some sort of patter about how the Big Oil/Automotive Conglomerates Don’t Want You to Know About This Big Secret.

Let’s put a fork in this one. It’s bull.

What’s happening with those hydrolysis cells is this: You’re using the electricity in your car’s battery to crack water into hydrogen and oxygen, in a low density gaseous form, to run your car off of. You split the water into its component parts, it goes into your engine, gets burned, and boosts your gas mileage.

What it’s really doing is boosting the octane of your gasoline a bit, which will decrease your gas mileage by a small amount, and it’s draining your battery. What charges your battery? You got it – it’s your alternator. So when you trace everything back, what’s happening is that you’re burning gasoline to generate electricity which is used to split water into hydrogen into oxygen, which is then added to your fuel mix to make your car’s gas mileage decrease.

The basic rule of thumb here is that if this did what its proponents claimed, every car manufacturer on the planet would be offering one of these things. They aren’t stupid; they know that a car that could run off of water would sell as fast as they could get them into the showrooms. (Think about the premium they could charge by saying that you never have to buy gasoline again. Think about the CAFÉ requirements…)

On top of that, anyone with even a high school knowledge of chemistry and basic science could tell that this entire setup doesn’t add up. If someone’s promising you more energy out than you think you’re putting in, then you’re probably being suckered somewhere (in this case, it’s the energy cost of cracking water into hydrogen and oxygen from the car’s battery).

Don’t be suckered into buying an extended car warranty from a company that’s not reputable. Warranty Direct is financially secure and rated A+ by the Better Business Bureau.

Independent Research Firms

A company’s transparency with their customers is key. During online research, searchers are bound to come across web sites that profess to perform “independent” research, when in actuality they are simply a portal site for an extended auto warranty broker. They’re easy to spot when they conveniently recommend only one “Editor’s Top Choice” throughout the site or blog while claiming to be an independent research firm. Often, these sites print misinformation about other warranty companies in an effort to fool the consumer.

Become a Well Informed Auto Warranty Buyer

WarrantyInfo.com has always clearly stated that we are the official blog of Warranty Direct. We use this blog to give you clear, factual information about extended auto warranties so you, the consumer, will be well informed and able to make the best decision on your extended vehicle warranty purchase.

What You Need is the Truth

We were shocked and dismayed that one new “independent research” site printed several pieces of misinformation about Warranty Direct. One of our loyal customers let us know about a disengenuous site, AutoWarrantyResearch.com. The site states inaccuracies and deceptions that we feel we must respond to.

1. Warranty Direct plans are backed by insurance companies that have A- Excellent ratings with A.M. Best. Warranty Direct is NOT “self-insured” nor are our plans backed by a Risk Retention Group. 
2. Warranty Direct is the direct-to-consumer division of Interstate National Dealer Services, Inc. Interstate has been in business for over 28 years and supplies extended warranties to car dealers, financial institutions and leasing firms across North America.
3. This disingenuous web site links to an erroneous business report about Interstate/Warranty Direct despite being told that it contains errors. While we are a privately held company, our sales last year were well in excess of $100 million and our asset base is in excess of $350 million. Our 28 year track record of paying claims and customer satisfaction are well documented throughout this site.
4. Several of the pages on the WarrantyDirect.com web site have a counter that ticks off the amount of claims we have paid since the inception of our business. Today, it stands at over $600 million and increases by almost $100,000 each day. The “independent research” site would try to have you believe that we are claiming to have paid that amount this year. We find that notion plain silly.

Of course we hope that you’ll decide Warranty Direct is the right company for you. As our customer, we pledge to give you the best value and service in the industry.

Give us a call, we’re happy to answer any of your questions about our coverage, the claims process, etc… You can also get a free extended auto warranty quote on our website at WarrantyDirect.com.

Warranty Administrator – This is the company that actually issues the warranty and is responsible for paying any claims. This is the company that should come under the closest scrutiny by consumers. Buying coverage direct from an administrator offers the most security as your money goes directly to the company responsible for fulfilling the obligations under the warranty contract. You will also be able to obtain the same coverage they sell through car dealers and avoid the car dealer’s markup. Administrators will offer you pre-sale counseling and after sale support.

There are many warranty administrators (national and regional) with varying business models. You should select a company that offers their coverage through many different channels and not just the Internet. Like insurance companies, the larger the pool of warranty holders, the more likely the company is financially stable and has adequate funds to pay future claims.

Regional warranty administrators tend to be small and have a smaller base of customers. National warranty administrators will offer coverage through car dealers, financial institutions (banks, credit unions) and may even handle warranty programs for manufacturers. With a larger, more diverse customer base, these companies are more financially sound. When a warranty administrator handles coverage for banks, credit unions and manufacturers, you can bet those companies did a lot of research before selecting a warranty partner.

More and more states are regulating the sale of extended warranties. Larger states like California, Florida and New York have licensing requirements and have done the homework for you. If a company is licensed in all of these states, that is a good indication of a stable company and one dedicated to compliance.

* * * *

Internet Only Warranty Companies – Based on our 14 years of selling coverage direct to consumers on the Internet (and 27+ years through car dealers, banks and credit unions), we have seen companies with this business model come and go. While the Internet allows consumers to buy products at more affordable prices than traditional selling channels, companies that only do business on the Internet present a risky business model.

Internet only companies are loosely regulated and some are not regulated at all. As they do not sell through car dealers or other channels, they are able to bypass the regulatory requirements that more and more states are implementing to protect consumers. These regulatory requirements most often deal with the company’s financial health.

By only selling warranties on the Internet, these companies are not able to amass a large customer base and often are not able to set aside appropriate funds to pay future claims. They take in money on Monday to pay claims on Tuesday. Couple this with a lack of regulatory over-sight and you have a recipe for disaster.

Questions you should be asking…

How long has the warranty administrator been in business?
Have they been around long enough to have been through several claims cycles?
Do they set aside adequate funds to pay future claims?
Do you sell your products only on the Internet?
When you type their company name into a search engine, what are their customers saying about them?
Are they members of the Better Business Bureau?
How many complaints do they have on file?
Are they members of WebAssured.com?
Are they Dun & Bradstreet verified?
Are they able to do business in all 50 states?
Are they recommended by reliable, trusted automotive web sites?
Do they have a formal complaint resolution process in their contract?

About Warranty Direct

Founded in 1980, Warranty Direct is the direct-to-consumer division of one of North America’s leading providers of service contracts and extended warranties for automobiles. Through its automobile extended warranty portals, www.warrantydirect.com, www.carwarranty.com, www.warrantyinfo.com and www.warrantydirect.ca , Warranty Direct leads the industry in efficient and expedited claims handling, impeccable customer service and a technology infrastructure that far surpasses the industry standard. Coverage is available in all 50 states and many parts of Canada.

For a free, instant online extended warranty rate quote, please click here.

Given Warranty Direct’s market leading position in the direct to consumer extended warranty market, we are flattered that companies (not so honest ones) are identifying themselves as Warranty Direct and falsifying our name on their Caller IDs.

Warranty Direct does not make unsolicited phone calls or use an automated dialing system. The only way we would contact you would be if you visited our web site (www.warrantydirect.com) and left your contact information. Were we to call you, our phone number (516-228-8600) would be displayed on your caller ID.

The company making these calls is using our company name and is in no way affiliated with Warranty Direct. Unfortunately, we have been unable to find out who this company is and have been unsuccessful in putting a stop to it.

Sadly, we receive several complaints of this nature each day. We are actively pursuing this issue and will continue trying to stop this company from tarnishing our company name.

We need your help. Do you know who these companies are? If you can provide verifiable proof of the company or companies doing this, we will pay a $100 reward upon receipt of verifiable evidence.

Consumers should be aware that these longer powertrain coverages leave them vulnerable to many expensive repairs on the vehicle. Special extended warranties called “Wraps” were created to close this gap in coverage.

The powertrain warranty will cover the engine, transmission and drive axles only. This represents about 25% of your car. While these covered parts can be very expensive to repair, you are left with no coverage for such things as air conditioning, brakes, electronics, fuel injectors, steering, front and rear suspension and many more. That’s where a Wrap warranty comes in; it fills the coverage gap between the powertrain and the thousands of uncovered parts on your vehicle.

Warranty Direct offers its bumper to bumper PowerWrap+ warranties on select vehicles and ExtremeWrap+ coverage for eligible Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep vehicles that come with the Limited Lifetime Powertrain Warranty. In addition, you pay lower rates on other coverages if your vehicle has an extended powertrain coverage from the factory.

The Internet is littered with web sites selling cheap extended warranties. These companies hope you’ll be blinded by low prices and not do the necessary research into what kind of coverage they are really offering. Cheap warranty contracts are full of clauses that will cost you dearly in the long run. Here are a few examples from 2 of the leading “cheap” warranty providers that have popped up on the Internet recently. Items that are underlined are the areas you should be very careful of.

THESE CLAUSES DO NOT APPEAR IN WARRANTY DIRECT CONTRACTS

BREAKDOWN” or “Mechanical BREAKDOWN” means the event caused by the total failure of any COVERED PART to work as it was designed to work in normal service. Please refer to the wording under exclusions for a listing of conditions under which the failure of a COVERED PART is not considered a Mechanical BREAKDOWN.

“Repair Cost” means the parts and labor expense necessary to repair or replace any Covered Component that is the result of a covered Mechanical Breakdown , subject to the exclusions set forth herein. We may use replacement components of a like kind and quality that may be rebuilt, remanufactured, or used. Parts pricing will be determined by the lesser of Your Vehicle manufacturer’s suggested retail price or the suggested retail price of a like kind and quality part, whichever is authorized by Us . Labor will be determined by a current nationally recognized flat rate labor guide.

Pay the CONTRACT HOLDER or the REPAIR FACILITY for repair or replacement, as WE, deem appropriate, of the COVERED PART(s) which caused the BREAKDOWN if the CONTRACT HOLDER has met his/her obligations as described in this Contract and if the BREAKDOWN is not excluded under the exclusions section of this Contract. Replacement parts can be of like kind and quality. This may include the use of new, remanufactured or used parts as determined by US. Labor will be authorized based on a nationally recognized labor manual.

BREAKDOWN caused by contamination (Foreign objects or substances including but not limited to Sludge) of or lack of proper fuels, fluids, coolants or lubricants, including a BREAKDOWN caused by a failure to replace seals or gaskets in a timely manner

A BREAKDOWN caused by overheating

This is a vehicle service agreement between the “Purchaser” (Agreement Holder) and the “Obligor.”

“Mechanical Breakdown” means the inability of any covered part(s) or component(s) to perform the function(s) for which it was designed due to defects in material or workmanship. Mechanical breakdown does not include the gradual reduction in operating performance where a mechanical breakdown has not occurred.

Any repair for the purpose of correcting engine compression or correcting oil consumption when a mechanical breakdown has not occurred. Valve grinding, valve guides, stuck valves, burnt valves, burnt piston, and/or stuck rings are not covered.

Any failure related to a previous repair.

Engine block and cylinder heads are not covered if damaged by overheating, freezing or warpage.

It’s no surprise that the Better Business Bureau reports states this about one of these companies:
The BBB processed a total of 96 complaints about this company in the last 36 months,
Clauses like those above can cost you hundreds, even thousands of dollars in repairs. Don’t be fooled by low prices alone as they are often accompanies by low levels of coverage and service.

Looking for high levels of coverage to fair process? Visit WarrantyDirect.com and find out why they are the most recommended provider in North America.

Certification doesn’t come cheap. For luxury cars, the average premium charged is 7.8% of its price, or $3,400. That money will buy you a full bumper to bumper coverage for 4-5 additional years with lots of money left over.

For all the talk of 120+ point inspections, limited warranties, vehicle history reports and others, there is no data to suggest that CPO vehicles are any more reliable than their non-certified cousins. Given that, why pay more for “certification”?