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Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Ford Escape 4X4, 6 cylinder. It seems to drag while driving (it doesn’t glide freely). What could be wrong?
Ray from Corfu, NY

Ray,
Check the rear emergency brake cables. One could be stuck from rust, causing the e-brake to stay applied. Also, check the rear brake calipers for rust on the slides. When rust forms, the caliper stays in the applied position after the brake is used. This condition creates a dragging sensation and causes the brakes to wear out prematurely. After 10-15 minutes of driving, place your hand close to each wheel. If you find one that’s hotter than the others, you have located the stuck brake. Pull the wheel and check the brake. Success to you.
Tom

Ron,
I know you don’t want to hear this but my suggestion is to have a competent shop do a diagnostic on your Cadillac to determine the cause of the drivability problem. Arbitrarily replacing parts simply does not fix cars. I have seen this scenario played out thousands of time over the years and the results are almost always the same, leaving the customer with more cost. Contact your local AAA to find a competent drivability diagnostician near you. Best to you.
Tom

David,
Yes, a power or ground wire could have been left loose. Also, a battery terminal connection could be loose causing an intermittent connection (that would explain the symptoms you described). Get the car back into the shop and have them recheck their work before something burns up from a voltage spike.
Tom

Ray,
In my opinion, the key to the automotive fountain of youth is to follow the severe service schedule for maintenance. If using Mobile One synthetic oil, change the oil and filter every six (6) months. As for Z-Max and other additives, if you follow the severe service schedule and use Mobil One, there is no need for these products.
Tom

Joe,
Sounds like you have a fun ride there, ’56 Chevy with big block power mmmmmmm… I doubt mixing the same type antifreeze from two different makers would result in what you describe. Perhaps a call to both antifreeze makers would reveal more info. In the meantime, I would run a strong flush chemical through the cooling system and fill it with a 50/50 mix of coolant and forget about it. Good luck.
Tom

Jerry,
This problem could be caused by a bad battery ground connection (at the engine block or frame), a dead spot in the starter (which might not show up all the time), or a bad ignition switch. In the case of a bad starter, after the starter spins over the engine, it lands in a dead spot in the armature windings. This results in a clicking sound. Try gently tapping the body of the starter with a hammer the next time it turns up dead. If the truck immediately starts after tapping the starter, you can safely assume the starter is bad. Sorry to say, but you might have to wait until the problem leaves you stranded. It’s very difficult to track down an intermittent electrical problem. I wish you success.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I was told that there is no advantage to using synthetic engine oil over conventional oil. I do not believe this is true. Also, I was told that conventional oil used with a stabilizer would accomplish the same thing as synthetic oil. Is this true? Thanks.
Nick from Bemus Pt, NY

Nick,
Whoever told you that synthetic motor oil has no advantages compared to conventional oil doesn’t know what he is talking about. Synthetic oil is more resistant to viscosity breakdown (loss of ability to flow and thus lubricate) from heat, friction, and chemical contamination (the hostile environment of an operating internal combustion engine). Synthetic oil was originally developed for use in aircraft to address the extreme operating environment of the jet engines. On the intake side, aircraft jet engines operate at very cold temperatures because of the rush of air, ambient temperatures, and venturi effect. On the exhaust side, the aircraft jet engine is very hot. Conventional oils simply did not stand up well under these conditions, so engineers designed a syntheticly fortified lubricating oil to avoid the problems associated with conventional petroleum lubricants. The new formula worked well, so AMSOIL founder and president Al Amatuzio (at the time, a jet fighter pilot in our armed forces) set out to develop synthetic motor oil suitable for automotive applications. The first synthetic engine oil for cars entered the market in 1972. Today’s synthetic oils flow better than petroleum oil in cold temperatures, providing internal protection during winter start up. Obviously, the quality of synthetic oil varies. In my opinion, based on the research I have seen, AMSOIL and Mobile One are number one and number two respectively. Finally, adding a stabilizer to conventional oil does not provide the same advantages as synthetic oils.
Tom

Steve,
The wiper arm has to be replaced. The tension spring (located inside the arm) keeps the wiper blade snug against the windshield glass. When the spring wears out, the wiper arm lifts off the glass. Replace the arm and problem solved!
Tom

Ed,
Small convex mirrors are a good addition to the driver’s side to eliminate blind spots. The passenger’s side mirror is already of the convex design, that’s why it says “Objects May Be Closer Than They Appear.” As for why carmakers don’t add convex mirrors on the driver’s side? Bottom line, cost. End of story.
Tom

Lois,
I checked my database for brake recalls on these vehicles and came up with nothing. Call your local dealer and give them your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to run in their database to make sure there’s no action from Chrysler on this condition. If not, perhaps you ran the brake shoes too long on the car, resulting in failure? Or, if they were replaced at one time or another, perhaps the shop used inferior shoes, causing the glue to crystallize that could result in shoe failure. It’s impossible to tell without seeing the old parts and the service history of the vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Lloyd,
Check for a dislodged vacuum line, crossed wire, or an inadvertently grounded sparkplug electrode either from dirt in the air gap or from the electrode crushed down to the ground position. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of these areas. Best to you.
Tom

Sheila,
First, check the coolant level. It sounds like the coolant is low and an air bubble is circulating through the system. If it is low, then check for a coolant leak. If the level is good, then there could be a vacuum leak causing the air blend door to open and close on engine demand. Check the vacuum lines that feed the heater system. There’s a vacuum chamber in the engine compartment that stores vacuum for the heater system to draw on when needed. That chamber is usually made of plastic and it can crack, resulting in erratic heater blend door operation. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of there areas. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

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It’s certainly not new that Toyota is having problems with their vehicles. Week after week the mainstream media seems to come out with a new “update,” much of it simply quoting old news. Let’s take a look at the facts regarding the Toyota recalls and useful information for owners of these vehicles.

The first set of recalls started with what is termed the Floor Mat Recall. In this recall Toyota determined that the gas pedals in some of their vehicles were getting hung up with the floor mats on the front driver’s side, causing unintended acceleration. The next recall was the Gas Pedal Recall. After depressing the gas pedal in some vehicles, it did not completely return to its original position. Next came the Prius/HS250h hybrid ABS Braking Recall, prompted by owners who complained that their ABS brakes felt like they weren’t working adequately. And finally, there is a minor recall of some Tacoma pickups for faulty front driveshafts on 4WD vehicles. There is also an investigation being launched into Corollas for malfunctioning power steering, but there is no recall to date.

Floor Mat Recall

Vehicles involved in the floor mat recall include (info from Toyota’s website):

• 2005-2010 Avalon
• 2007-2010 Camry
• 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2008-2010 Highlander
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2004-2009 Prius
• 2005-2010 Tacoma
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2009-2010 VENZA
• 2009-2010 Pontiac Vibe

Owners of vehicles covered by the floor mat recall should take out any removable driver’s floor mat and not replace it with any other floor mat until they receive the vehicle-based remedy.

After you receive a notification from Toyota that the recall remedy for your vehicle is available, you should take your vehicle to an authorized Toyota dealer. Dealer personnel have been specially trained to implement the following vehicle-based remedy:
Toyota service techs will either modify or replace the accelerator pedals on the subject vehicles to address the risk of floor mat entrapment, even when an older-design all weather floor mat or other inappropriate mat is improperly attached, or is placed on top of another floor mat. Floor surface modifications are also being considered and will be included in the remedy plan for any model for which it is deemed appropriate. For the Camry and Avalon models involved, the shape of the floor surface underneath will also be reconfigured to increase the space between the accelerator pedal and the floor.

Gas Pedal Recall

Toyota discovered that there was a problem with excessive friction buildup on the bottom of the gas pedal of certain vehicles. This condition can cause the gas pedal to stick and, in some instances, not return completely to the original position after being depressed. This recall is in full swing.

Toyota’s accelerator pedal recall is confined to the following Toyota Division vehicles (info from Toyota’s website):

• Certain 2009-2010 RAV4
• Certain 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2005-2010 Avalon
• Certain 2007-2010 Camry
• Certain 2010 Highlander
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2008-2010 Sequoia

No Lexus Division or Scion vehicles are affected by this recall action. Also not affected are Toyota Prius, Tacoma, Sienna, Venza, Solara, Yaris, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser and Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids. Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids are not involved in this action. Further, Camry, RAV4, Corolla and Highlander vehicles with VINs that begin with “J” are not involved.

If you have noticed that your accelerator pedal is hard to depress, slow to return, or is not smooth during operation, the vehicle should be stopped at the nearest safe location, the engine shut off and a Toyota dealer contacted for assistance.

What if you experience a sticking accelerator pedal while driving?

Each circumstance may vary, and drivers must use their best judgment, but Toyota recommends taking one of the following actions:

If you need to stop immediately, the vehicle can be controlled by stepping on the brake pedal with both feet using firm and steady pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal as it will deplete the vacuum utilized for the power brake assist. Shift the transmission gear selector to the Neutral (N) position and use the brakes to make a controlled stop at the side of the road and turn off the engine. If unable to put the vehicle in Neutral, turn the engine OFF. This will not cause loss of steering or braking control, but the power assist to these systems will be lost. If the vehicle is equipped with an Engine Start/Stop button, firmly and steadily push the button for at least three seconds to turn off the engine. Do NOT tap the Engine Start/Stop button. If the vehicle is equipped with a conventional key ignition, turn the ignition key to the ACC position to turn off the engine. Do NOT remove the key from the ignition as this will lock the steering wheel.

Prius/HS250h ABS Brake Recall

(as it appears on Toyota’s website)

Toyota Announces Voluntary Recall on 2010 Model-Year Prius and 2010 Lexus HS 250h Vehicles to Update ABS Software

TORRANCE, Calif., February 8, 2010 – Toyota Motor Sales (TMS), U.S.A., Inc, today announced it will conduct a voluntary safety recall on approximately 133,000 2010 Model Year Prius vehicles and 14,500 Lexus Division 2010 HS 250h vehicles to update software in the vehicle’s anti-lock brake system (ABS). No other Toyota, Lexus, or Scion vehicles are involved in this recall.

The ABS, in normal operation, engages and disengages rapidly (many times per second) as the control system senses and reacts to tire slippage. Some 2010 model year Prius and 2010 HS 250h owners have reported experiencing inconsistent brake feel during slow and steady application of brakes on rough or slick road surfaces when the ABS is activated in an effort to maintain tire traction.

Toyota has responded to owner concerns with a running production change for 2010 Prius that was introduced last month, improving the ABS system’s response time, as well as the system’s overall sensitivity to tire slippage. The production change for the HS 250h is planned for later this month.

The recall will allow Toyota dealers to perform the software update on 2010 Prius vehicles sold prior to this running production change. Only Prius vehicles produced since May 2009 and all HS 250h vehicles are subject to this recall. First- and second-generation Prius vehicles use a different ABS system and are not involved in this campaign. The ABS system on the Lexus HS 250h is similar in design to the Prius. The software adjustment planned for HS 250h production and dealer modification is being finalized and will be announced very soon. Toyota will begin mailing letters to Prius owners included in this recall next week and HS 250h owners within the next few weeks, to let them know when to bring their vehicles into a dealership. Owners will only receive a letter if their vehicle is involved in the recall.

Are Toyota and Lexus bad cars?

I say a hearty NO! The Toyota Motor Company’s reputation is built on a foundation of quality and safety. I believe it is still the basis of the company today and Toyota is moving swiftly to address these issues. The bottom line? It is still a fine car in spite of the recent problems. Toyota will make good on the faulty cars and will rebound as a safety and quality leader again in an effort to regain market dominance. Quite frankly, I think now is a great time to buy a Toyota. Last week, according to Kelly Blue Book, Toyota pricing had dropped an average of 4% across the board. This means a savings of $350 to $700, in addition to the 0% financing (which you never saw until now for a Toyota product). And look for other incentives in the near future to entice buyers back into the showrooms. As I see it, there will be some pretty good deals out there for some fine automobiles.

Well, that’s pretty much the skinny on the Toyota recalls. Call your local Toyota dealer with your VIN number so they can input it into Toyota’s database to see if your vehicle is involved in any of these actions. Or you can go online to: Pressroom.Toyota.com and you will find updates as they come hot off the press. Hope this helps clear things up a bit.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I purchased a used 2007 Dodge Caravan SXT – V6 with 21,000 miles. It gets 19 MPG in the city and only 20 MPG in the country. What can I do to get better mileage? I follow your advice for maintenance and welcome your advice. Thanks.
Ruth from Hamburg, NY

Ruth,
Fuel mileage is subjective to the driving environment, how the vehicle is driven, how it is maintained, and what kind of work it performs. First, make sure the performance system is up to snuff (sparkplugs & wires, air and fuel filter, breather element, and anything else related to the performance system). If these items are not replaced at the proper intervals, fuel mileage will suffer. Based on the low mileage of this vehicle, the plugs could be “carboned up” from lack of use. Have them cleaned and re-gapped. What else can you do to increase gas mileage? Inflate the tires to max inflation rate so they offer less rolling resistance; replace the air filter with a high flow filter like a K&N; and replace the engine oil, transmission fluid, and differential lubricants with synthetic lubricants. All this coupled with maintaining the performance system should net you a few more miles per gallon. Best to you.
Tom

Lee,
If what you outlined here is accurate, then I agree with you. It is entirely too much oil consumption for this engine. Excessive oil consumption is the result of poor piston ring sealing, bad valve guide seals, or sloppy valve guides. If the PCV system were clogged with sludge, then the crankcase would be pressurized. In this case, the oil would be pushed up into the breather system and into the air intake to be burned. Call John Domagala at the NFADA (Niagara Frontier Dealer’s Assoc). He is the director of AUTOCAP (Automotive Consumer Action Program) and John will get the Chrysler Zone Rep involved. Hopefully you will get some satisfaction. John’s number is 716-631-8510. Tell him I told you to call. Success to you.
Tom

Amy,
Let’s deal with one thing at a time. (1) The sloppy ignition key issue is probably due to a worn lock cylinder in the steering column. This requires replacement of the lock/key (removal of the steering wheel and air bag are part of this procedure to access the necessary parts). (2) The wipers have to be checked for a bad internal motor ground or (if so equipped) the wiper delay could be bad (3) The whirring sound by the belt could be a bad serpentine idler, an alternator or power steering pulley, or worn bearings in the water pump shaft. Get it into a shop that can address your concerns … one at a time. Good luck.
Tom

Lillie,
You give me no year, make, or model so my answer will be in general. The first thing that comes to mind is the thermostat. When it goes bad it can either stick closed (causing overheating) or open. If stuck open, the engine doesn’t get hot and thus the heater doesn’t get warm. Also, heater malfunction can also be caused by a problem with a duct door (these doors direct the heated air into the vehicle’s cabin). Finally, in the case of climate-controlled systems, a faulty electronic control module can cause heater malfunction. Hope this helps.
Tom

Randy,
Check the inner axle shaft CV joints. Heavy vibration occurs when they get worn and loose, especially under acceleration. Other common causes of front-end vibration include: loose/worn struts and/or strut bearing plates, loose ball joints, tie rod ends, rack mounts, or internally worn rack. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Ford CEO Alan Mulally & Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi on the Ford stand at NAIAS

Chevy Camaro SS

Honda CRZ

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Malibu LS. I recently had the front and rear rotors and pads replaced, as well as the rear calipers. About 750 miles later the brakes started squealing. The pads cost $50 each; the rotors were $46 each; the calipers were $79 each. I brought the car back to shop at once and they cleaned the brakes. However, they are still squealing. Any solutions?
Joe from Long Island

Joe,
Brake squeal is a common problem and the result of a high-pitched vibration of the pad/s. Either the pad anti-rattle clips are worn/broken or the pad insulators were not installed at the time of the brake job. Get the vehicle back to the shop and have these checked. Best to you.
Tom

Michael,
Yes, your driving pattern is a textbook case for using synthetic motor oil. When a vehicle sits without being driven much, acid and moisture accumulate in the crankcase, causing erosion of the main and rod bearings. Good synthetic motor oil guards against chemical and moisture contamination because of the chemically fortified base stock. I recommend either AMSOIL or Mobil One, (number one and two).
Tom

Don,
You will have to water-test the car’s body to find the leak. Get in the car with a light and have someone soak down the body with a water hose at the point where you think the water is entering the vehicle. Use the light to find where the water is coming in, and then seal the leak. It could be entering via a door, a window, or a windshield gasket. Success to you.
Tom

Susan,
Why would you take a vehicle with an obvious drivability/engine problem to a transmission specialist? That’s like going to a brain specialist for a broken arm (just wondering about your logic here). I can’t give you a specific direction to solve the stalling problem. However, I would suggest that you leave the vehicle with a shop that specializes in engine drivability for a few days so they can drive it with a scanner hooked up to it, and the tech can monitor what’s going on when the problem occurs. This is the best course of action given the erratic nature of your Durango’s malady.
Tom

Glenn,
First off, there was no such thing as a “T-Bucket Roadster” 90 years ago. The base vehicle that the T-Bucket was made from had to be something that was not modified (whether it was a pickup or some sort of coupe or sedan). I just want to get a clear understanding of what we’re looking at before proceeding forward with advice. That said, when buying any car (custom, modified or OEM) conduct a stem to stern inspection of the key systems (electrical, drivetrain, powertrain, suspension, brakes, undercarriage, etc). In addition, the inspection might include an engine compression test, electrical values of the charging/starting system, hydraulic test of the trans (if automatic), fluid samples of drivetrain components such as diffferential/s, transfer case, transaxle, and any gearboxes in the drivetrain. I might even go as far as an engine oil analysis to determine internal engine health before making an offer. Finally, if the vehicle is touted to be an original rare piece, do a numbers match analysis to make sure it is indeed original. Consider bringing a vehicle appraiser in before the sale to confirm that the car is what the seller claims it to be. Best to you.
Tom

Martha,
Have the drivetrain control module scanned for codes. It sounds like the lockup converter control solenoid is not disengaging the clutch in the converter when you shift gears. This would account for stalling when you change gears. A good transmission shop should be able to scan it for you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

1. Rust-Proofing: Some dealers charge up to $800 for this service, which sometimes amounts to no more than spraying a coating from an aerosol can in the wheel wells.
2. Fabric Protection: For a couple of hundred dollars, some dealers will try to sell you fabric protection for your car’s interior that will repel stains. You know it as Scotchgard.
3. Paint Sealant: This is another instance where the dealership hopes the car buyer will be gullible enough to believe that it’s using some special technique and material that’ll keep your car’s paint looking factory fresh
4. Window Etching: Another easy-money markup for car dealers; they etch your vehicle’s VIN on a window so that your car can allegedly be tracked in case it’s stolen.
5. Alarm System: Many cars come with a basic form of security, such as coded keys, but many dealers will also try to sell you a full-featured alarm system.
6. Extended Warranty: Since vehicles come with longer and more comprehensive warranties these days, extended warranties are usually not worth the extra money. If you plan to hang onto the vehicle for a long time, an extended warranty can be a good investment if and when your car needs major repairs. But don’t buy it from the dealer, since you can often get a better deal through independent insurers, such as Warranty Direct.
7. CD Changer: The price of a CD changer at a dealership can be twice what it is at a car stereo shop or electronics store.
8. Rear-Seat Video: Whether to choose this dealer option is not as easy to decide as the ones above.

Consumer Reports says almost the same thing:

“Dealerships often try to sell you extras that boost their profit margin but are a waste of you money. They can include rustproofing, fabric protection, paint protectant, or VIN etching, in which the vehicle identification number is etched onto the windows to deter thieves. Don’t accept those unnecessary services and fees. If you see those items on the bill of sale and you haven’t agreed to them, simply cross them out and refuse to pay for them. Vehicle bodies are already coated to protect against rust. And recent CR reliability surveys show that rust is not a major problem with modern cars. You can treat upholstery and apply paint protectant yourself with good off-the-shelf products that cost only a few dollars. If you decide you want VIN etching, you can buy a kit to do it yourself for less than $25, instead of the $200 that some dealerships charge. Also think twice about an extended warranty. It can cost hundreds of dollars. But if you buy a model with good reliability or if you expect to have the vehicle only for five years or less, it often isn’t worth the cost.”

Regarding Car Warranties, US News & World Report says:

“The dealer’s extended warranty isn’t necessarily the best deal; in fact, it usually costs more. Plus, you’re in a high-pressure situation at the dealer and might not be able to read the fine print. Finally, if you buy the dealer’s extended warranty, you might be required to return to that dealership to get it honored – which could become a problem if you move.”

So save yourself some money:

• Skip the rust proofing
• Buy your own can of Scotchguard for your cloth upholstery as well as the carpeting and matting
• Say no to paint sealant which is often just a wax job that you can do yourself or pay the neighbor’s kids to do
• For your alarm upgraded stereo and video systems you can often find a better system cheaper at your local car stereo shop or a big box retailer like Best Buy
• Window Etching – check with your local police or sheriff department – a lot of them hold free etching days like the Amhearst Police Department
• Car Warranty or Vehicle Service Contract – contact Warranty Direct at 800-632-4222 for your best deal on an Auto Warranty

According to US News & World Report, you don’t need to purchase a warranty the moment you buy the car. If you want one, you can easily buy it later from a reputable third-party company. “The dealer’s extended warranty isn’t necessarily the best deal; in fact, it usually costs more. Plus, you’re in a high-pressure situation at the dealer and might not be able to read the fine print. Finally, if you buy the dealer’s extended warranty, you might be required to return to that dealership to get it honored – which could become a problem if you move.” So contact Warranty Direct and buy direct from us and save.

If you need a vehicle service contract (generally known as an extended warranty), call Warranty Direct first and let us help you get protected  from unexpected repair bill costs when a break down occurs. You can reach us at (800) 632-4222 or visit www.warrantydirect.com to find out more.

Ford Motor Company [NYSE: F] today reported net income of $997 million, or 29 cents per share, in the third quarter as strong new products, structural cost reductions and improved results at Ford Credit lifted the company’s results despite continued weak global economic conditions. This is a $1.2 billion improvement compared with the same period last year.

Consumers Digest Magazine Names 2010 Automotive Best Buys

Thirty-six vehicles and 12 companion models received Best Buy ratings from Consumers Digest out of some-240 total 2010 models. The ratings, published in CD’s December issue (on sale November 1), span 10 categories: Small Cars, Family Cars, Luxury Cars, Sporty Cars, Pickups, Minivans, Compact SUVs, Midsize SUVs, Full-size/Luxury SUVs and Hybrids.

Chrysler’s revival to lean heavily on Fiat

Italian car maker expected to shift compact models to North American production; Dismal sales numbers, crumbling market share and an outdated lineup are staring Fiat SpA and Chrysler Group LLC chief executive officer Sergio Marchionne in the face as he prepares to unveil a sweeping reorganization for the company Fiat saved from the scrap heap five months ago.

Our cars will be mostly electric, or solar-powered, or will run on biofuels. We’re not there yet, but there are still steps you can take to green up your driving experience.

The first, most effective thing you can do while we are still in the thrall of OPEC is ease up on the gas pedal. You’ll use less gas if you accelerate and brake gently whenever you’re driving. On the highway, keep your speed at 55 mph. Fuel efficiency peaks between 35 and 55 mph. You will literally lose only a few minutes reaching your destination, but your gas bill will decrease. You will also use less gas if you empty your trunk regularly—extra weight increases your gas burn.

Own that high occupancy vehicle lane on the freeway! When the HOV lanes opened up years ago, people laughed about them. Everyone pretty much preferred to maintain their independence and ride alone. But it’s time to post a notice on the bulletin board at work for a carpool.

Besides carpooling, you really can decrease the number of miles you travel. Plan your route for your daily errands. Ask your neighbor if you can pick up a few things for him at the store; eventually perhaps the two of you can save each other some trips. Use your bicycle or walk if possible.

If your car was manufactured in 1999 or later, you might have a “flex-fuel” vehicle, which means possibly you can fill it with E85 ethanol instead of gasoline. Visit E85fuel.com to find out if your car is one of them, and also for a list of fuel stations that supply this blend of ethanol and gasoline. Besides reducing our dependence on gasoline, E85 means less hydrocarbon and benzene products released into the atmosphere, and carbon dioxide emissions are reduced. Ethanol also has a greater solubility in water than does gasoline.

Take your car to a green automotive service station for routine maintenance and service. Many dealership and franchise service suppliers are utilizing recycled solvents and water-based cleaners. They service your car with an eye to maximizing fuel efficiency. They look for low-energy methods to operate their business, and they recycle byproducts to preserve water tables. Look for a place like this in your area.

If you are buying a car, don’t buy something bigger than you need. Do your part to put the days of gas-guzzling muscle vehicles behind us. Kits to convert your car to electric via lithium battery are available for $10,000, cost prohibitive at this time.

But keep your eyes on the news as green technology progresses; the prices will spiral downward as we approach the future.

Warranty Direct offers extended warranties for the new green hybrid cars on the market. Contact us today for a free quote. We offer payment plans on extended car warranties, too, so you can more easily budget your expenses.

We liked this because it told us all about the On-Star feature they offer on some models that can help you if you’re in an accident, run out of gas, or just breakdown. The On-Star is a smart system and every automaker should be looking close at Chevrolet.

They offer the best of the Big Three when it comes to hybrids, a car, the Malibu, a truck, the Silverado, and the Tahoe, an SUV—what a choice! Again, however, this Big Three Company mentioned nothing on their website about how this manufacturing company is being environmentally responsible—what’s with the Big Three anyway on this subject?

We looked at two Chevrolet trucks and when you buy your next Chevy, don’t forget to buy the Chevrolet extended warranty to extend the manufacturer’s warranty and help with your resale value.

2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Regular Cab – The Best

Male Country singers croon about owning a Chevy truck and after looking at the Silverado, we know why!

It comes in two basic models, the Work Truck and the LT model. They range from 4.3 liter, 8 cylinder engines to 5.3 liter 8 cylinder engines and have a fuel efficiency of 17 miles per gallon.

Depending on model, the Silverado comes in rear-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive and range in price from $19,000 to $29,765.

The good news is that you can get this in a hybrid, but it will cost you more, but really not that much more—only $38,000. If Chevy can offer a hybrid truck at that price, they need to call up Ford and Dodge and explain it to them.

This truck is powerful, a great hauler, and has all the amenities, including On-Star and controls in all the right places. Yep keep singing country folk—this is an awesome truck.

2009 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab – The Worst

Chevrolet must have called Dodge and thought this truck would compete with the Dakota.

Both sold as “ladies” trucks, the Colorado comes in 12 styles. The two basic models are the Work Truck and the LT and depending on style, have a 2.9 liter, 4 cylinder engine to a 3.7 liter, 5 cylinder engine. They have a fuel efficiency of 20 miles per gallon and are priced from $16,700 to $21,300.

Customers thought this truck had a weak engine and lack of interior features. They felt the 5-cylinder option was barely adequate and the ride felt bouncy. Overall, even the experts felt this truck was “fair.”

Summing Up Chevrolet

Chevrolet should be proud of their three hybrids, especially when it comes to the price of them.

The Malibu is only $23,000 and the Silverado is $38,000, and their top of the line hybrid the Tahoe is only $50,000! What does Chevy know that the other American automakers don’t know?

They offer top-performance in the Silverado trucks that those farmers love and when you buy your next Chevy truck, don’t forget to purchase a Chevrolet extended warranty to ensure once the manufacturer’s warranty is expired, you’ll still have repair coverage.

Warranty Direct is now available within various areas of the NADAguides.com website, offering consumers convenient access to free online warranty quotes. Visitors to NADAguides.com simply input their state of residence, the make, model and year of their car and their preferred contact information to receive a fast and secure competitive warranty quote.

Damon Bennett, Director of Business Development for NADAguides.com, says this partnership is the joining of two, highly-regarded automotive organizations to benefit consumers across North America.

“NADAguides.com is the world’s largest publisher — and industry leader — of vehicle pricing and specification information,” said Bennett. “Warranty Direct is a 27 year-old company with numerous industry credentials and accreditations. Together, we’ve joined forces to bring millions of monthly NADAguides.com visitors easy, fast and secure access to the most competitive and comprehensive warranty programs on the market.”

“We’re pleased to partner with NADAguides.com to jointly offer consumers outstanding coverage at reasonable prices,” said Warranty Direct’s Vice President, Randy Downs. “Warranty Direct and its parent company have successfully administered nearly two million extended warranties and paid over one million claims since being founded in 1980. We have a long and reputable history in the warranty industry.”

According to Bennett, the NADAguides.com and Warranty Direct partnership provides consumers with easy access to some of the most comprehensive programs being offered today, with coverage that includes mechanical breakdown and wear and tear protection, full seals and gaskets coverage, no exclusion for damage caused by overheating, an unlimited number of claims, transferability of coverage to new vehicle owners, claims that are paid directly to the repair facility, free roadside assistance membership for the full term of coverage, car rental, travel interruption coverage and much more.

About NADAguides.com

N.A.D.A. Appraisal Guides (NADAguides.com) is the world’s largest publisher of vehicle pricing and specification information for new and used cars, trucks, vans, and SUVs, as well as van conversions, limousines, classic and collectible cars, boats, RVs, motorcycles, snowmobiles, personal watercraft and manufactured housing. The company’s consumer website, NADAguides.com (http://www.NADAguides.com), offers a variety of new and used vehicle services in addition to valuation information. Throughout its 74-year history, N.A.D.A. Appraisal Guides has earned the reputation as the recognized authority for vehicle valuations. Its website, NADAguides.com, is the most comprehensive vehicle information resource on the Internet today.

About Warranty Direct

Founded in 1980, Warranty Direct is the direct-to-consumer division of one of North America’s leading providers of service contracts and extended warranties for automobiles. Through its automobile extended warranty portals, http://www.warrantydirect.com, http://www.carwarranty.com, http://www.warrantyinfo.com and http://www.warrantydirect.ca , Warranty Direct leads the industry in efficient and expedited claims handling, impeccable customer service and a technology infrastructure that far surpasses the industry standard.

Website: http://www.nadaguides.com/
Website: http://www.warrantydirect.com/