• One in four could not pay for a car repair of $2,000
• One in eight could not even pay for a $1,000 car repair bill
• One fourth of drivers are neglecting car repairs and maintenance largely due to the economy – which could put them at risk for unexpected car repair costs.

If a $2,000 car repair came up for you, how would you pay for it? The survey found:

• 38 percent would pay with funds from a savings account
• 20 percent would pay with their credit cards
• 11 percent would have to borrow from friends, family, retirement or home equity

None of these is a good situation, right? A much better solution is a vehicle service contract from WarrantyDirect.com that can cost just a few dollars a day and protect you from a wide range of expensive auto repairs.

The AAA survey found that repair bills of $1,000, $2,000 or more can quickly arise – especially with older vehicles that have not been properly maintained. For example:

• A transmission repair can cost $2,000 to $4,000
• A major engine repair can exceed $5,000
• Even major brake repairs can range from $350 to $1,000 or more

Project yourself and your family. Call Warranty Direct today to talk about affordable coverage options for your car at 877-867-3565.

Warranty Direct has been in business for 35 years, has an A+ rating with the BBB, handles their own claims, and is licensed in all 50 states. Call 877-867-3565 or visit www.warrantydirect.com now.

Fall and winter months are the harshest months for vehicles, especially those which are hard to maintain. Why wait for a breakdown or a dead battery when the weather is miserable outside? Fix your car while the sun is shining and autumn leaves are falling, then be ready to face winter’s blasts with confidence.

One little-known protection against the cold is weatherstripping the windows, doors, windshield, trunk and other parts of your auto, much as you would your home. You are not only making your car more air and watertight, but also protecting its value and longevity. Custom weatherstripping is available from many leading auto dealers as well as auto parts supply stores like NAPA Auto Parts.

Another way to prepare your auto for those extra hours of darkness in winter is by making sure that all your lights are working and are properly aimed. Of course after long years of using your car’s original lights, you may need to replace them for safe illumination at night or restore them with a 3M Headlight Restoration Kit. However  if you do need to replace them, be sure to install high quality and durable auto lights that will last a long time. Fog lights are very important during fall and winter seasons because they provide low-to-the-road illumination that helps you pass through thick fog, snow and rain. They are specially designed to keep you safe while driving through the worst weather conditions and mountainous roads.

Be sure your car or truck tires are properly inflated to avoid misfortunes on the road. Likewise, check on the car’s air conditioning, heat, exhaust, cooling, starting and electrical systems, not only for comfortable temperatures but also for efficient defrosting and defogging of windows. Get a Free Fall Check from Meineke to make sure your car is running in top condition.

Your car is really like an extension of yourself, so take care of it. No matter how tough its original parts are, you can’t expect them to work perfectly right in the worst weather of the year if you don’t maintain them properly. Treat your car with tender love and care now before cold weather starts playing tricks on you.

• Oil and Filter – Check the oil level at every fill-up, and change it, along with the oil filter, as specified in your owner’s manual.
• Battery – Battery efficiency drops off drastically in cold weather and there are rarely any signs before failure occurs. Today’s batteries are tougher than those of the past, but many service stations will check your battery free of charge to be sure it’s ready for freezing temps.
• Brakes – These are a normal wear item for any vehicle, so plan ahead and anticipate a replacement before they become an expensive problem. Have the system checked by a qualified technician immediately if you notice dragging, squealing or grinding noises, or a pulling or a pulsating brake pedal.
• Wipers – Wipers take a beating when there’s ice on the windshield, so check wiper blades for cracks and wear, and replace them immediately if streaking, skipping or smearing occurs.
• Belts and Hoses – Check and replace belts that appear to be frayed, glazed or cracked, and hoses that are leaking, brittle, rusted, swollen or restricted. If you suspect that the main belt is loose and you can reach it under the hood, press down on it with your thumb; if it gives more than half an inch, it needs to be tightened.
• Fluid Levels – Check all fluids regularly, including brake, power steering, transmission and antifreeze fluids. They all help neutralize internal corrosion, remove debris that may have accumulated and keep the vehicle’s temperature within normal range.

Project yourself and your family. Call Warranty Direct today to talk about affordable coverage options for your car at 877-867-3565.

Warranty Direct has been in business for 35 years, has an A+ rating with the Better Business Bureau, handles their own claims, and is licensed in all 50 states. Call 877-867-3565 or visit www.warrantydirect.com now.

1. Get more than one estimate. Unless you have a mechanic that you work with and trust, consider getting several estimates for the job. If your car is in an collision accident, more than likely your insurance company will ask you to get three estimates. If you are paying for car repairs out of pocket you should definitely do the same. A lot of times different mechanics will charge different prices even for the same problem. They might have different rates, feel that they need to repair things that are potentially going to break, or some mechanics are dishonest and will charge you for services that do not need to be performed.

2. Check the BBB – If you are unfamiliar with a repair shop check with the Better Business Bureau before taking your car to a shop and find out whether they’re reputable.

3. Make sure you get a itemized estimate and not just one price for the whole job. – If all of the services are not listed in the estimate, then the mechanic could deny that you ever talked about them. Make sure that they are listed very clearly in the estimate in as much detail as possible.  For instance, if a part has to be new and not refurbished, then this should be indicated. As well when you are comparing estimates you will have more leverage to negotiate if one mechanic is charging a lot less for one service than the other.

4. Make sure the price is very clearly listed – The price should be very clear. Shops will charge for parts and labor so make sure that the estimate is be broken down and any dispoal fees are included so that when the final bill comes there are no surprises.  That way if there is a problem with something, then you will know the exact portion that it is.  The estimate should also state what will be done in the case that the price might be higher.  Make sure that if something comes up during the repair that the mechanic has to call you before making non-estimated repairs.

5. Make sure you read everything and ask questions if it seems unclear – There may be small print on the estimate, but it is still important to read everything, especially before you sign anything. You never know what someone might try to put in there such as an extra fee.

6. Get a copy of the estimate – Most mechanics will give you a copy of the estimate and keep one for themselves.  Make sure that you get your copy.  You do not want to come back only to suspect that the estimate has been altered.

7. See if anything is covered by your warranty – If you are still under your car’s manufacturer auto warranty, find out if anything is covered and if the shop is authorized to do warranty repairs. If you have an extended service plan have the shop call to authorize the repairs with your administrator and then obtain a new estimate with the covered repairs included.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 Toyota 2.4L. Is there a magic 75,000-mile event that requires the expensive replacement of timing belts and chains or the engine will self-destruct? I hear stories to this effect, and my Toyota dealer hedged the question. Help!
Monica from Peoria, IL

Monica,
Your car has a timing chain, therefore there’s no timing belt to worry about. The chain should last the life of the engine. Earlier Camry’s (’01 and ’02) with the 2.2 liter engine had a timing belt. However, in 2002 Toyota did away with the 2.2 and started using a 2.4 liter engine that uses a timing chain, which does not require regular change intervals, as does the engine with the timing belt. Tell whoever is scaring you with these oldwife’s tales that he/she knows not of what they speak and to stifle themselves!
Tom

Angelita,
I checked my ALLDATA database and the manufacturer states that 5W30 synthetic motor oil is required for that car, so return the case of cheap straight 30-weight oil. If you use straight 30-weight you are asking for engine trouble. However, the thing that concerns me most is the fact that you have to add 2-3 quarts of oil between changes. This is too much oil consumption. Given the year and model of your vehicle, you may still be within factory warranty. I would call your local dealer and give them your car’s VIN and mileage to see if you are still under warranty coverage. Best to you.
Tom

Sal,
I would change the oil and filter now, and then change it according to the OLM (Oil Life Monitor) thereafter. Make sure you use only 5W30 motor oil with the “dexos” designation. This is the only acceptable motor oil for use in this engine as per GM. Using another oil will result in loss of factory warranty coverage in the event of an engine failure. Success to you.
Tom

Dave,
This car is pretty much trouble free. Aside from a few minor glitches with wipers smearing and a few engine trouble codes due to a need for software updates to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) the vehicle platform seems to be trouble free. With proper maintenance according to factory specs (following the severe service schedule) you should get many years out of this little gem.
Tom

Jackie,
That car has one of two manual transaxles offered by the carmaker. Each transaxle has shift cables that are adjustable. If the cables are properly adjusted, the problem lies within the transmission. It could be in the form of bad synchronizer or blocker rings. These are devices that shift the gears inside the trans when you manipulate the gear shifter inside the vehicle. I would say the problem lies either in a maladjusted shift cable or syncro or blocker ring, or a shifter fork problem, and NOT a clutch. If it were a clutch problem, it would be evident in all gears. Go to a transmission expert for this repair. Good luck.
Tom

Butch,
Your truck is equipped with an oil life monitor. This system measures when to change the oil based on three criteria: crankcase temperature, combustion chamber events (work the engine does), and moisture in the system. The system is accurate to within (+) or (– ) 5% of oil life. Just make sure the system is reset every time you change the oil and always use the oil that GM recommends or a better oil. Follow the dictates of the OLM and you will not go wrong. Success to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

1. Leakage: If you see a pink pool of oil when moving your vehicle, have it looked at right away.
2. Shaking: If you vehicle shakes at high speeds there could be a problem with the transmission
3. Delayed drive or reverse: If your car hesitates to go into Drive or Reverse longer than it should or if it jerks when shifting gears, the transmission could be to blame.
4. Burning smell: If you smell this, your transmission could be overheating or leaking.
5. Check engine light: Eliminate the transmission from being the culprit of why your light is on.
6. Transmission slipping: If power is not getting to the wheels like it should when the engine is revving, it could be the transmission.
These tips are from Premium Automotive Repair

Always check the transmission fluid regularly for preventive maintenance. Transmission repairs can cost over $2000. The transmission is a critical part of any vehicle that must be repaired in order to have gears that fully work. A vehicle service contract from Warranty Direct is a good thing to have when transmission problems occur. The cost of just transmission repair would pay for the policy. It can also help protect you against other car repairs as well. Visit www.warrantydirect.com for more information about an extended auto warranty.

Dear Tom,
I listen to your radio show here in Savannah, GA. Thanks for all you do for us drivers. I drive a 2004 Lincoln LS with an auto transmission. This auto has NO dipstick, much to my dismay! When driving, the shift from 2nd to 3rd can be very rough at times. The dealer tells me he can’t duplicate this! I have had the transmission drained and fluid replaced twice, once by the dealer and another by an independent shop that I trust. I can use any advice you can offer!
Patrick from Savannah, GA

Patrick,
Thanks for listening down Georgia-way! I researched your problem and came up with a possible solution. Ford issued a TSB on this condition, it is TSB # 05-21-8. According to this bulletin, there may be a problem with the shift solenoids in the transmission causing harsh shift points. If you have your local dealer reference this TSB they will probably be able to solve your problem. Best to you.
Tom

Dottie,
Ford Motor Company issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this condition. It involves checking the tires for flat spots, tire-to-wheel fitment, and overall tire diameter. Flat spots on the tires will cause vibration. Also, if the tires are too wide for the rims, vibration will occur. Finally, vibration also occurs when the overall diameter of one or more tires is greater or lesser than another. The TSB number is: 08-24-2. Have your repair shop look this up and perform the service. Success to you.
Tom

John,
The camshaft position sensor measures the position of the cam lobes and adjusts ignition timing to achieve maximum combustion efficiency in the engine. Before you get in way over your head with this repair, call your local dealer and ask them about TSB # 12 12 99 from BMW. It involves replacing the camshaft position-sensor with an updated one. Apparently there were problems with the cam sensors that were installed at the factory. Good luck.
Tom

Cookie,
Your car has a strut/shock configuration. Have the front struts and strut mounts, as well as the rear shocks checked. Sounds like they are at the end of their respective lives. If you had them replaced recently, or they’re in good shape, then have the stabilizer bar links and mounts checked. Oftentimes, when the links or mounts go bad, the bar will bang on the underside of the vehicle when going over bumps in the roadways. Good luck.
Tom

Mary,
That car has rear drum brakes. It sounds like a brake shoe is hanging up. There are a number of things that can cause this to happen: A lack of lubrication between the shoes and backing plate, or a bad wheel cylinder, or a frozen emergency brake cable, or the lining is coming loose from the steel backing. At any rate, get it into a shop so they can take the wheels off and find the source of the problem.
Tom

Lulu,
I suspect that you have a bad brake light switch. Typically, these switches go bad over time and an electrical short causes the brake lights to stay on. The switch is located at the top of the brake pedal arm and is easy to replace. To check it, simply disconnect the electrical plug and see if the lights go out. If they do, the switch is bad. If they don’t, your car has wiring issues that must be traced down in order to do the repair. If this is the case, take it to a shop.
Tom

Jerry,
I just had the same thing happen with my Toyota pickup, same year and model. A starting system analysis revealed that it was the starter. I removed it and took it to a rebuilder and, when they opened the starter up, they found that the contacts inside the motor had burned which caused the intermittent starting condition. They replaced the burnt contacts and the truck starts every time. The repair cost was $45 as opposed to over $200 for a rebuilt unit. Sweet.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
Other than keeping up on oil changes (I use Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30) and keeping up on the air filter, is there any after market stuff I can buy to increase mileage? I know there’s aftermarket stuff that increases horsepower, but not mileage. I’m looking for good quality products that are a surefire way to make a noticeable difference in mileage. Please help!
Dan from Phoenix, AZ

Dan,
Using synthetic motor oil is a good move. You might also want to change over the transmission fluid to synthetic ATF; this will help reduce internal transmission drag. Using synthetic transmission fluid is a move many carmakers use to increase fuel efficiency. Keep your tires inflated to the proper levels and replace the air filter with a K&N high-flow air filter. These combined moves should result in measurable fuel mileage increases.
Tom

Glen,
Have you even tried to start it yet? Try to crank it over. If the engine cranks, that’s a good sign. Drain the crankcase and fill it with new oil. Next, replace the oil filter, and before you install the new filter, fill it with oil. Pull a valve cover. Next, ground the coil wire and crank the engine until the rockers pump oil up into the head. Make sure you have spark from the coil, then reinsert the coil wire and start the engine up. Should the engine NOT crank, find our why. There could be rust in the cylinders or a seized crankshaft. The only way to find the cause is to disassemble the engine. If it’s extremely rusty inside, find another engine. Good luck.
Tom

Mary,
Have a computer scan done to see if there are any misfire codes. This will tell you if the plugs are dirty resulting in misfire. Bad spark plug wires can also cause this condition. Why? When the insulation breaks down then the wires crossfire. An effective way to see if the wires are cross-firing is to spray water in them. If they crossfire, then the wires need replacing. Another suggestion, have a flight tester hooked to the vehicle’s datalink connector and drive it. This way the tech can monitor the datastream to observe any anomalies in the system. Aside from this course of diagnosis, anything else is a shot in the dark. Success to you.
Tom

Tony,
Yes, the air ride suspension would help the ride of your Merc. After installing the air ride system, you can adjust the shock and strut feel by adjusting the air in the system. There are many aftermarket systems available for that car. A simple keyword search on Yahoo rendered over 400,000 results. I went to a site called “Suspension-Alternatives” and found three good kits ranging from $235 to $500. I wish you success.
Tom

Yvonne,
Interstate makes high quality products. Your car takes the Interstate Mega-Tron MT-51R battery. I research the battery and, based on the stats on Interstate’s application chard, this battery is well suited to your car, and the MSRP (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price) is $115, with the average retail price coming in at $96.95. It looks like this battery fills all your qualifiers.
Tom

Kate,
The “white smoke” could be due to condensation in the system. Typically, when it’s cold outside, hot exhaust gas passing through the cold exhaust system causes condensation (water) to form inside the system and thus “white smoke” (water vapor) comes out of the exhaust pipe until the system heats up enough to evaporate all of it. If the “white smoke” continues after warm up, you may have a blown the head gasket. And if the smoke smells like gasoline, you may have a fuel delivery problem. Good luck.
Tom

Pamela,
There is a TSB on this very issue. It is TSB# SB00-02-S002 from Isuzu. It states:
Condition:
All affected vehicles with the P1441 Evaporative Emission Code that has been diagnosed with “no fault found” from the appropriate flow chart in the Drivability and Emissions Manual.
Correction:
After determining that no faults exist for P1441, the affected vehicle may require an updated fuel sender and/or an updated calibration number. Do not replace the entire Fuel Pump and Sender assembly.

So you might need a new fuel-sending unit in your truck. Have it checked by the dealer before proceeding. Best to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Over the years trends develop in the auto industry by virtue of a phenomenon I call “media chatter.” Several press releases start to percolate to the surface from unrelated outlets in the media. For example, when Chrysler Corp was on the verge of bankruptcy the first time, chatter of an anticipated Daimler takeover (“merger?”) started bubbling up to the surface. Within just a few months it was announced that “A Merger of Giants” (Daimler Benz and Chrysler Corp) was about to take place. Later, it ended bitterly when the stock plummeted to historic lows ($25-$28 a share) and Daimler Executive Jurgeon Schremp was ousted. There were rumors that he had leaked information regarding the “merger,” and that it was never intended to be a merger but rather a takeover. It appears he was a few steps ahead of everyone else during negotiations, intending to acquire (rather than merge) with Chrysler. The point? Media chatter forecasted the “merger” long before it happened.

Lately the media chatter is singing a new tune about the electrification of the auto industry. For this reason, I believe we are on the cusp of widespread vehicular electrification. For the record, in previous articles I have stated that four things have to happen before widespread electrification of the auto industry could take place.

• Consumer acceptance of electric vehicles
• Improvement of battery technology
• Accessibility to the charging infrastructure
• Support from the carmakers

Consumer acceptance of electric vehicles

This is a tough one given the existing hurdles of restricted distance due to limited battery technology and the lack of a charging infrastructure. However, the Chevy Volt is off to a good start. The combination of a small gas-powered generator to power and recharge the batteries is a green light for a long-range electric vehicle that provides the confidence to venture out. I believe this solution will generate wide demographic acceptance of electric vehicles, including baby boomers (who are somewhat skeptical about electrics), as well as Gen-Xers & Yers (who tend to be risk takers). The bottom line? People won’t drive electric vehicles unless they feel secure, knowing they won’t get stranded with a dead battery. Look for a nationwide educational campaign about the benefits of electric vehicles to begin this year.

Improvement of battery technology

This is still a distance off. Present battery technology simply does not offer enough freedom to consumers, enabling them to travel the distance guaranteed with a tank of gas or diesel fuel. Battery technology coupled with electric motor/drivetrain technologies must offer a distance of at least 200 – 300 miles on a single charge in all weather and roadway conditions before consumers accept electric vehicles on a widespread basis. Tesla seems to have breached this baseline. Tesla is the first production electric vehicle offered that travels more than 200 miles on a single charge. However, the obvious question arises, under what weather and roadway conditions were the Tesla roadsters able to log this kind of mileage under a single charge? The world distance record of 311 miles for a production electric car on a single charge was set by a Tesla roadster on October 27, 2009, during the Global Green Challenge. It took place in the Outback of Australia at an average speed of 25MPH. Now please understand that in the Outback of Australia during October it is summer weather. That said, 311 miles on a single charge is still not a bad number given the cushy circumstances under which it was logged. According to the EPA, the Tesla roadster can travel 244 miles on a single charge of its lithium-ion battery pack, and can accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in 3.7 seconds (I can’t find the data defining the conditions under which these stats were logged). The roadster’s efficiency, as of September 2008, was reported as 120 MPG. So it seems that Tesla has definately started to break ground in the battery technology arena. Now the carmakers need to translate Tesla’s success to a full sized family sedan or SUV. There is the ticket to success in electric vehicles!

Accessibility to the charging infrastructure

A charging infrastructure has to be built before there is widespread acceptance of electric cars. With access to charging stations, consumers will no longer be anxious about the range of travel. Years ago, when the car industry was getting started, GM realized that in order for cars to become a working member of the family, a highway system had to be built to support travel. Hence GM supported the building of America’s Super Highway System, which stemmed the birth of suburbia, which in turn fueled the need for cars. The same logic applies to electrification of the car industry. Recent press releases indicate that some of the US & Japan’s automakers are working with power companies to develop a widespread charging station infrastructure that would first cover metropolitan areas, then spread across the country.

Support from the carmakers

As of the writing of this article, Ford, Mercedes, Toyota, and Chevrolet have all announced aggressive plans to bolster electric vehicle production. I expect more onboard this year.

In summary, sitting in the catbird seat of the automotive media, I have the opportunity to observe trends develop early on. The phenomenon I call “media chatter” begins long before a thing comes to the light of day. And the “media chatter” regarding electric vehicles is growing. In January these headlines all appeared within a week of each other:

• No Small Promise: Ford Delivers on Commitment With 10 New Small Cars and Electrification Plans DETROIT, Jan. 10, 2011 /PRNewswire

• IBM Study: Electric Cars Stir Interest But Face Obstacles Nearly one-fifth of drivers are likely to consider an electric vehicle Drivers reluctant to bear the cost of home charging ARMONK, N.Y., Jan. 11, 2011 /PRNewswire

• Johnson Controls Breaks Ground on Fully-Integrated Battery Recycling Facility FLORENCE, S.C., Jan. 18, 2011 /PRNewswire

• Detroit First Responders Get Electric Vehicle Safety Training. Chevrolet, OnStar and National Firefighters Prevention Association Host Sessions DETROIT, Jan. 19, 2011 /PRNewswire/

• Germany “shifting” to electrically powered cars. 11th International Advanced Automotive Battery Conference BERLIN and PASADENA, California, January 21, 2011/PRNewswire/

So I ask you faithful readers… will we be driving electric cars soon? In my humble opinion, I think so. ZZZZZZZAAAAPPPPPPP!

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Tom,
I own a 2007 Chrysler Town & Country and the corners of the hood just above the headlamps are rusting through the paint. The dealer says there is nothing they can do because the paint is under warranty for only 3 years. I have had the van for 3 years and 5 months and I just noticed it this week on my van. Is there a recall on this rust problem?
Darren from Depew NY

Darren,
Unless you can prove that the rust is coming through from inside the panel, you will get nothing from Chrysler. The position of carmakers is that rust occurs from stone chipping or some other exterior cause. No car manufacturer or paint manufacturer will guarantee rust from the exterior chipping of paint. The prognosis? It will only get worst if you do not get it corrected. And now that you have rust on the exterior of the panel, most body repair shops will not guarantee the rust repair. So what is the most effective method of repair at this point? Replace the rusted body panel. Success to you.
Tom

Lois,
This condition is not safe. Get your Jeep into a shop ASAP. They should put it up on a lift and check out the steering linkage. It sounds like the vehicle has a loose steering component such as a drag link assembly or a tie rod. Aftermarket companies make a device called a ‘drag link shock.’ This component is like a shock absorber and it attaches to the steering linkage (specifically the ‘drag link’). When the vehicle gets up to a speed where the linkage might start to jump, the ‘drag link shock’ absorbs the oscillation and stops the shaking of the steering wheel. This device is commonly used on 4WD vehicles such as your Jeep. It is often used in cases where the drag link is worn, but not worn enough to need replacing. I wish you success.
Tom

Karen,
At 330,000 miles it’s not surprising that the vehicle is experiencing low oil pressure (caused by engine wear). Your question is impossible to answer without an internal engine inspection. At the very least, have the crank, oil pump, and oil pan inspected for evidence of internal wear and proceed from there. This procedure requires removing the oil pan and measuring the crankshaft journals, oil pump, and inspection for evidence of metal in the pan from engine wear. At this mileage I am quite sure that the engine will need to be rebuilt or replaced with a re-manufactured unit. I like the Jasper re-manufactured engines; they have the best warranty and are high quality. Good luck.
Tom

Way,
you are probably correct in assuming that the fuel pump is failing. This is not a do-it-yourself job because it requires special tools to remove the sending unit retaining ring, and it also requires a lift to get the van up in the air to drain and drop the fuel tank. Get it into a shop to replace the fuel pump.
Tom

Jason,
There is a fairly simple procedure to reset this system and it’s outlined in your vehicle’s owner’s manual under ‘Oil Changes and General Maintenance.’ Otherwise, you should call your local dealer for the procedure, or go to your local shop. They should be able to access this procedure in their auto repair database. If they don’t have such a system, perhaps it’s time to find another repair shop.
Tom

Scott,
Either the parking pawl is not holding in the transmission, or the transfer case is sticking in neutral, or the shift linkage is not shifting the transmission into park all the way. This is dangerous! Have it checked out immediately. If you bought the truck at a dealer, get it back to their service department and have it fixed under warranty. Good luck.
Tom

David,
Sorry, you cannot replace those bulbs. They are LEDs built into the radio set, so you will have to replace the radio. This is a great excuse to buy a better radio for your truck. Take advantage of it!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘92 Olds with 94,000 miles. I have heard that it is not good to use high mileage oil because it will clog up the seals. Now they have come out with full synthetic 5W30 high mileage oil. Can I safely use this in my engine? Thank you and keep up the good work.
Bill from Ormond Beach, FL

Bill,
There is a seal conditioner blended into high mileage oil that causes old seals to soften and swell. This tends to temporarily stop oil leaks due to hardened seals. The problem? The conditioner rarely lasts very long resulting in leakage again. Keep following the manufacturer’s recommendations for oil and filter changes and you will realize high mileage from this engine. There is no need for high mileage oil.
Tom

Steve,
You did not tell me what make of oil you are using. Mobil 1 recommends every 15,000 miles, AMSOIL’s full synthetic says every 25,000 miles. Not all synthetics are created equal; some have shorter drain intervals than others. The two longest are AMSOIL and Mobile 1. Make sure you are using good quality synthetic motor oil before extending drain intervals. Success to you.
Tom

Jack,
Mobil 1 is a great product. The other product I would put in the same class is AMSOIL. As a matter of fact, AMSOIL tops Mobil 1 in performance based on independent studies at Southwest Laboratories. See the stats here: www.lubedepot.com.
Tom

Julian,
This condition is called paint de-lamination. It is the result of a lack of chemical bonding of the paint to the primer coat, and possibly the primer coat to the metal of the car’s body. Chrysler had this problem with their vehicles in the 90’s. The only way to correct the problem is to sand down, prime, repaint, and then clear coat the area affected. Good luck to you.
Tom

Charles,
EGR stands for “Exhaust Gas Recirculation” system. This emission control system recirculates exhaust gas to cool the catalytic converter and re-burn unburned gases in the engine (thus lowering tailpipe emissions). Ford EGR systems are problematic with carbon buildup. If the valve is carboned-up, then the EGR exhaust passages under the intake manifold and in the cylinder heads are also and must be cleaned or the problem will continue to rear its ugly head. I wish you success.
Tom

Rhett,
Because it’s cool and the public wants it. Do we need tachs? Not on all vehicles. I agree with you … oil pressure, ammeters, and temperature gauges are much more important. In most cases, tachs allow people to play Zoom-Zoom and make like Mario Andretti!
Tom

Lance,
Good question. Transmission fluid usually is changed at 35-40K miles with the filter. A lot of shops today have a flush machine. This device can suck old fluid out and pump new fluid in without taking the pan off. I do not recommend this procedure because flush machines reverse-flush the trans fluid. This process dislodges dirt and wear-particles out of the old filter and back into the transmission. Always change the filter along with the fluid when changing trans fluid. Good luck to you.
Tom

Rick,
Pre-ignition or “pinging” is caused by the fuel pre-igniting when it enters the combustion chamber. Using fuel with too low octane can cause this phenomenon. Other causes are extremely lean fuel mixture, a faulty knock sensor, excessive carbon buildup on the pistons and valves, and maladjusted ignition timing. Have the system scanned for codes. The tech will surely find the cause with this diagnostic procedure.
Tom

Gaby,
The acronym DOHC stands for Double Over Head Cam. Your engine has two camshafts, one for each set of valves per cylinder. Each camshaft controls the valve set on each side of the cylinder head. You’re welcome.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘98 Honda Accord V6. Every time I get the oil changed, I’m told that an oversized drain plug is needed which is okay because it’s relatively inexpensive. But I’m also told that I should buy a new oil pan, but that costs about $350. Seems to me that there ought to be an easier fix than a new oil plan. Got any ideas?
Melissa from Ft Worth, TX

Melissa,
Apparently, in the past, someone stripped out the threads of the original drain plug, hence the need for the oversized drain plug. The oversized plug cuts new threads in the stripped hole, thus sealing the oil pan drain. If you use a high quality oversized plug with a good gasket then there you don’t need to replace the pan (providing the service personnel are careful not to strip the threads further). The only other solution is to replace the oil pan. Success to you.
Tom

Donna,
The only engine that came in the 2009 Hyundai Elantra was the 2.0 liter DOHC 4 cylinder engine. The engine features Constantly Variable Valve Timing and it generates 138 HP at 6,000 RPM and 136 ft lbs of torque. As a matter of fact, the same powerplant is still used in that vehicle today.
Tom

Chuck,
Your truck requires a 2-wheel alignment. There are no adjustments for the rear. Sometimes the rear differential shifts right or left, throwing the thrust angle off and pushing the vehicle one way or another. Therefore I would get a front wheel alignment. In this type of alignment, all four wheels are measured, then the front is aligned referencing the thrust angle of the rear wheels; that way the truck rolls truly down the road.
Tom

Waddle,
Either the heater core is leaking or the heater hose that feeds into the core through the firewall. The best way to track down the leak is to pressure test the cooling system in an effort to force a coolant leak at the weakest point in the system (which I believe, in your case, is the heater core itself). If the core is leaking, the dash will have to come apart to replace the core. Good luck.
Tom

Grant,
The engine in your truck is a 5.7-liter Hemi. The crankcase capacity is 7.0 quarts. With a high quality oil filter the oil change should cost you about $60. If you use synthetic oil add another $30. For regular oil the recommended interval is 3-5K miles. For synthetic, 5-7K miles. Some folks go longer, depending on what brand of oil is used.
Tom

Dave,
There is no torque converter drain plug on this transmission. If you want to completely exchange the fluid then have it done professionally by a shop with a fluid exchanger. Before a complete fluid exchange, make sure the fluid is red and not dark brown, black, and burned (a sign of that the unit was overheated). If overheated fluid is evidenced, replace only the fluid in the pan along with the filter because a complete fluid exchange on an overheated unit can result in transmission failure. The complete refill capacity is 9 quarts. Good luck.
Tom

Leon,
BMW specifies BMW High Performance Synthetic SAE 5W-30 oil for your wife’s car. The crankcase capacity is 6.5 liters and make sure you use the same quality oil filter specified by BMW. The oil life monitor measures engine oil temperature, moisture content, and combustion chamber events (engine work). By measuring these aspects of engine operation the computer algorithm is able to accurately calculate the oil’s serviceable life. Providing you’re using synthetic oil as specified by BMW, I have no problem with this drain interval, because the normal service table suggests changing the oil every 16,000 miles or according to the oil life monitor. Don’t use anything but oil compatible with the BMW High Performance synthetic oil or it could result in premature engine failure. I wish you success.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I have heard both pros and cons concerning the need for Motorvac service. Please set the record straight. I have a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer with 35,000 miles. It runs fine. Do I really need this expensive service?
Joe from Colorado

Joe,
Carbon buildup in the upper regions of the engine is a fact of life. It’s just the nature of the beast. Varnish deposits from gasoline build up in the fuel delivery system, as well as carbon in the engine (a byproduct of combustion). The varnish inhibits the flow of fuel through the injectors, and the carbon buildup decreases the efficiency of the fuel-burning process. The sensors in the performance system read these changes and the system responds by constantly making adjustments. Regular Motorvac service (every 35-40 thousand miles) prevents these problems. The engine will start crisply on cold mornings, and you will continue to experience snappy acceleration as the car ages, as well as maintain optimal performance and fuel economy. I highly recommend this service.
Tom

Marla,
A few years ago I ran across a company that is of great help in this arena: www.mrwhizard.com. They repair/rebuild digital instrument clusters for a fraction of the cost of a new one. Most rebuilt units cost $189. I followed up with the owner and interviewed him on my national radio show. They are legit and do great work. Success to you.
Tom

Ed,
A dark brown color is an indication that the fluid is burnt. Not good. I would probably just change the filter and re-fill the pan rather than do a complete flush. When a transmission has been overheated, the glue on the back of the internal clutches crystallizes. When a complete flush is performed, the detergent in the new fluid removes the hardened glue from the back of the clutches, separating the friction material from their steel backings and rendering the transmission useless. I have seen this happen time after time. The filter change and pan refill will not affect the unit like a complete fluid exchange. However, it’s your tech’s call. Good luck.
Tom

Barb,
I’m not sure what you mean by the “sniffer test.” Perhaps a four gas analyzer? This procedure will only reveal if there are excessive tailpipe emissions; it will not tell you if there is water in the exhaust. These cars are notorious for intake and head gasket leaks, especially if the car is equipped with Dexcool from the factory. Try a cooling system pressure test to force a leak at the weakest point in the system, which reveals the source of the leak. If you find a pressure loss with no evidence of an external leak, perform a block test. During this test, the tech draws a vial of coolant from the radiator and mixes it with a special chemical to see if it turns color. If it does, that means there is exhaust gas in the cooling system and the engine has a blown head gasket. Another way to track down a coolant leak is to perform a cylinder-leak-down-test. During this test, air pressure is fed into each cylinder and the engine is inspected for pressure loss. If pressure is bleeding into the radiator, then the leak is a head gasket. Finally, a dye test could be performed. During this test the tech will add a fluorescent dye to the coolant, then he will run the engine. Next he will shine an ultraviolet light on the engine, and wherever there is a bright yellow color, there is a leak. Yellow droplets in the exhaust stream indicate a blown head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

VW,
Miami is a great car town with several BMW dealerships and import repair facilities to choose from. I would ask the seller if you could take the car to your garage for a pre-purchase inspection. If they refuse your request, find another car. As for whether or not it is a good purchase? Without seeing the vehicle it is impossible to say. Overall, BMW is a great product both in performance and initial quality, but used conditions can vary depending on how well the vehicle was maintained. A good pre-purchase inspection will reveal all areas of concern. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘94 Camaro Z28. The right front low beam light was out so I replaced it with a new one and it still doesn’t work. Any ideas? It was replaced with the same kind of light that came out. All the other lights are working. Thanks.
Chas from Lima, OH

Chas,
Now is the time to start tracing wiring and powers and grounds. Either there’s a break in a power wire or there’s a bad ground to that headlight bulb. The ground should be found on the header panel above the radiator; the power wire in the harness comes from the bulkhead connector at the firewall. Get out your wiring diagrams, test light, and logic probe, and start diagnostics. Be careful with the test light. If you pierce a low voltage/amperage wire going to a module you will fry it. If there’s no obvious ground or power wire problem, you might want to employ the services of a professional tech to avert damage to the system.
Tom

Debbie,
Nissan issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on your truck for noisy drive belts. The culprit was an improper pulley alignment or a faulty belt tensioner pulley. Get the truck into a Nissan dealership and have this TSB performed. It should solve your problem. Success to you.
Tom

Joel,
Continued use of low octane fuel (87) in this engine will result in internal engine damage over time. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, which causes hammering on the tops of the pistons and cylinder heads and valve faces. The small savings you will realize from using lower octane fuel will come back to bite you with major engine damage and repairs. Your call, penny wise or pound-foolish.
Tom

George,
Aloha! I am not sure what you are referring to when you say “lower insulators.” There are no “lower insulators” to speak of. The strut bolts to the steering knuckle and the spring seats in the lower part of the strut. Did you change the upper bearing plates? They could be the source of the banging (this is common). That car is equipped with sway bars. The sway bar insulators could be bad causing the bar to bang on the underside of the car every time you hit a bump. Go over your work. I’m sure you will find your problem on one of these areas. Good luck.
Tom

Shade,
Wandering occurs as a result of: bad shocks, loose steering linkage, low tire pressures, and worn suspension components such as ball joints or control arm bushings. Get the truck up on a lift and have the front end looked over by a good tech. They will find your problem in one of these areas. Make sure you take the tech for a ride (make them drive it so they feel the wandering) before putting the truck up on a lift to help in the diagnostic process.
Tom

Dave,
With a hand held scan tool and a drive cycle. The hand held will go into the system, interface with the vehicle’s computer, and clear the codes. The drive cycle (a predetermined set of driving and operating instructions as outlined by the carmaker) will clear the readiness monitors that have flagged as a result of the malady it sees in the system. You will need to access professional auto repair info for this vehicle to perform the drive cycle. I wish you success.
Tom

Mandy,
Yes, I suppose you could say that an injected engine has a choke. It’s electronic. When the performance system senses that the engine is cold (via air and coolant sensors) it richens the fuel mixture automatically. When the engine comes up to operating temperature, the system leans out the fuel mixture to running mode. There’s no manual or automatic choke like in the old days; it’s all controlled electronically now.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Dodge Neon that recently broke down because of a ruptured transmission oil cooler tank in the radiator. I took the car to a transmission shop and they told me that both the radiator and the transmission have to be replaced because the antifreeze and the transmission fluid mixed. Is this covered under a recall? Do I have to replace the transmission?
Michael from Williamsburg, VA

Michael,
Yes, the transmission must be replaced due to the failure of the transmission oil cooler in the radiator tank. When coolant mixes with transmission oil and circulates through the system, the transmission suffers severe damage. Rubber seals swell up and hydraulic pressure is lost within the unit. In addition, the coolant dissolves the glue that holds the clutches together inside the transmission. I checked my resources and this condition is NOT covered under a recall from Chrysler. Sorry for the bad news. Best to you.
Tom

Amy,
If you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine you will find the thermostat housing. The housing has two bolts that secure it to the engine. These need to be removed to gain access to the thermostat. When you replace it, make sure to thoroughly clean the housing and gasket mating-surface on the engine. Also, make sure the thermostat is installed right side up (spring down inside the engine). Success to you.
Tom

Bill,
To isolate the problem, find where the sending unit screws into the engine (usually in a water jacket on the intake manifold). Once you locate the sending unit, disconnect the wire that plugs into it. Then ground the wire while watching the gauge inside the truck. If the gauge goes too hot, the sending unit is defective and must be replaced. If the gauge does not move after grounding the sending unit wire, then there is a problem either with the wiring between the sender and the gauge in the dash, or with the gauge itself (defective). Good luck.
Tom

Rocky,
The interior lights in your truck are controlled by an electronic module. Either the module is not powering down the interior lights when the doors are closed, or the module is still sensing a door open from a faulty door-ajar switch in a door latch. Have a tech scan the system with a diagnostic computer in order to track down the problem.
Tom

Cal,
The Ambient Temperature Sensor on your truck is located behind the grill near the hood latch. It has a round, black two-pin connector with light blue/orange and dark green wires. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the processor inside the truck causing the malfunction. If the sensor replacement does not solve the problem, then have a diagnostic performed of the circuit that feeds that function. Success to you.
Tom

Richard,
Were the drums resurfaced when the brake job was done? If not, I would pull them off, resurface them, and sand the brake shoes as well. Also, grind the ends of the shoe braking material at a 45-degree angle. That will take the sharp leading edge off the brake shoe. This procedure should take care of the noise.
Tom

Ed,
I would recommend having the driveshaft checked for proper balance. When a ding or dent damages the shaft, it can get knocked out of balance causing a drivetrain vibration. The condition of the molded rubber mount of the carrier-bearing doesn’t sound too good either. Get the vehicle up on a lift and have it checked. If that bearing is allowed to jump up and down while driving the vehicle, a vibration will ensue. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Cadillac Escalade. The battery light comes on for one or two minutes, then it cuts off and the dash says ‘battery not charging.’ What does this mean? Also, sometimes when I don’t lock the car at night, the car will not start the next morning and I have to get the battery jumped. What’s going on?
Wilford from Drexel Hill, PA

Wilford,
Your Escalade has a shorted alternator, a loose serpentine belt, or a parasitic electrical draw in the system with the key off. Start with a charging system analysis to make sure the alternator is charging properly. If it is, check the serpentine belt to see if it is too loose. This belt has an automatic belt tensioner that rides against the back of the belt to maintain proper tension. When the belt stretches too much or the tensioner spring wears out, the belt slips resulting in poor alternator performance. Finally, if all check out good, then have the system checked for an electrical draw with the key off. A draw will kill the battery very quickly, especially if the short is a direct 12-volt draw. Good luck.
Tom

Cliff,
Sounds like either the thermostat is bad (stuck open) or a coolant temp sensor for the temperature gauge is bad. The computer adjusts fuel delivery and ignition timing according to the data it receives from the coolant temp sensor and the thermostat. If the coolant temp sensor sends a signal to the computer that the engine is cold, the computer will adjust for a richer fuel delivery and advance ignition timing because it “sees” a cold engine. If the thermostat is stuck open and not causing a restriction in the system to raise engine coolant temperature to proper operating temps, the computer will “think” that the engine is cold and adjust the fuel delivery and ignition timing for cold start conditions. Better get to the bottom of it or you will burn a hole in your wallet from fuel consumption. Success to you.
Tom

Scott,
The EVAP system is a sealed system to control fuel vapor emissions to the atmosphere. When a leak occurs from a rusted line or faulty component, it throws an EVAP code. To track down a leak in the EVAP system a “Smoke Machine” is hooked to the system. The machine pumps vapor through the system; the tech then inspects the system for escaping vapor, which will occur at the site of the leak. Repair the malady, clear the stored code, and the problem is solved. This one is probably over your head, Scott. Take it to a pro that has the equipment and knowledge to fix it. Good luck.
Tom

Ground Control to John,
Leak detection pump? DVOM? Lab Scope in modes 1,2,3? What are you talking about? I haven’t a clue. This is an example of … “a little information in the hands of the uninformed can be a dangerous thing.” That said, Alldata DIY has all the test parameters you want. However, you have to come up with valid tests before proceeding. Otherwise you will drive yourself crazy (which I think may have already happened) looking for the correct flow chart/diagnostic procedure.
Major Tom to Ground Control… over and out

Dear Tom,
Is there a standardized code for the radio’s antitheft lock system? What is the procedure to un-lock it?
Vikki from Brooksville, IL

Vikki,
Radio lockout codes vary between carmakers and radio manufacturers. There is a unique procedure and code for each radio. This information is not available to the general public. You have to get it from your car dealer or from the radio manufacturer. Expect to pay for it and to prove that you are the owner of the vehicle.
Tom

Cheri,
Sometimes parts are interchangeable between years and models within the same family of vehicles, for example GM. Most junkyards or car dealers have a list (called a cross-reference chart) of what parts interchange with other years, makes and models. Should you want to do the research yourself you can go to www.car-part.com. They have a search engine for interchangeable parts. Good luck!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

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Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Ford Escape 4X4, 6 cylinder. It seems to drag while driving (it doesn’t glide freely). What could be wrong?
Ray from Corfu, NY

Ray,
Check the rear emergency brake cables. One could be stuck from rust, causing the e-brake to stay applied. Also, check the rear brake calipers for rust on the slides. When rust forms, the caliper stays in the applied position after the brake is used. This condition creates a dragging sensation and causes the brakes to wear out prematurely. After 10-15 minutes of driving, place your hand close to each wheel. If you find one that’s hotter than the others, you have located the stuck brake. Pull the wheel and check the brake. Success to you.
Tom

Ron,
I know you don’t want to hear this but my suggestion is to have a competent shop do a diagnostic on your Cadillac to determine the cause of the drivability problem. Arbitrarily replacing parts simply does not fix cars. I have seen this scenario played out thousands of time over the years and the results are almost always the same, leaving the customer with more cost. Contact your local AAA to find a competent drivability diagnostician near you. Best to you.
Tom

David,
Yes, a power or ground wire could have been left loose. Also, a battery terminal connection could be loose causing an intermittent connection (that would explain the symptoms you described). Get the car back into the shop and have them recheck their work before something burns up from a voltage spike.
Tom

Ray,
In my opinion, the key to the automotive fountain of youth is to follow the severe service schedule for maintenance. If using Mobile One synthetic oil, change the oil and filter every six (6) months. As for Z-Max and other additives, if you follow the severe service schedule and use Mobil One, there is no need for these products.
Tom

Joe,
Sounds like you have a fun ride there, ’56 Chevy with big block power mmmmmmm… I doubt mixing the same type antifreeze from two different makers would result in what you describe. Perhaps a call to both antifreeze makers would reveal more info. In the meantime, I would run a strong flush chemical through the cooling system and fill it with a 50/50 mix of coolant and forget about it. Good luck.
Tom

Jerry,
This problem could be caused by a bad battery ground connection (at the engine block or frame), a dead spot in the starter (which might not show up all the time), or a bad ignition switch. In the case of a bad starter, after the starter spins over the engine, it lands in a dead spot in the armature windings. This results in a clicking sound. Try gently tapping the body of the starter with a hammer the next time it turns up dead. If the truck immediately starts after tapping the starter, you can safely assume the starter is bad. Sorry to say, but you might have to wait until the problem leaves you stranded. It’s very difficult to track down an intermittent electrical problem. I wish you success.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I was told that there is no advantage to using synthetic engine oil over conventional oil. I do not believe this is true. Also, I was told that conventional oil used with a stabilizer would accomplish the same thing as synthetic oil. Is this true? Thanks.
Nick from Bemus Pt, NY

Nick,
Whoever told you that synthetic motor oil has no advantages compared to conventional oil doesn’t know what he is talking about. Synthetic oil is more resistant to viscosity breakdown (loss of ability to flow and thus lubricate) from heat, friction, and chemical contamination (the hostile environment of an operating internal combustion engine). Synthetic oil was originally developed for use in aircraft to address the extreme operating environment of the jet engines. On the intake side, aircraft jet engines operate at very cold temperatures because of the rush of air, ambient temperatures, and venturi effect. On the exhaust side, the aircraft jet engine is very hot. Conventional oils simply did not stand up well under these conditions, so engineers designed a syntheticly fortified lubricating oil to avoid the problems associated with conventional petroleum lubricants. The new formula worked well, so AMSOIL founder and president Al Amatuzio (at the time, a jet fighter pilot in our armed forces) set out to develop synthetic motor oil suitable for automotive applications. The first synthetic engine oil for cars entered the market in 1972. Today’s synthetic oils flow better than petroleum oil in cold temperatures, providing internal protection during winter start up. Obviously, the quality of synthetic oil varies. In my opinion, based on the research I have seen, AMSOIL and Mobile One are number one and number two respectively. Finally, adding a stabilizer to conventional oil does not provide the same advantages as synthetic oils.
Tom

Steve,
The wiper arm has to be replaced. The tension spring (located inside the arm) keeps the wiper blade snug against the windshield glass. When the spring wears out, the wiper arm lifts off the glass. Replace the arm and problem solved!
Tom

Ed,
Small convex mirrors are a good addition to the driver’s side to eliminate blind spots. The passenger’s side mirror is already of the convex design, that’s why it says “Objects May Be Closer Than They Appear.” As for why carmakers don’t add convex mirrors on the driver’s side? Bottom line, cost. End of story.
Tom

Lois,
I checked my database for brake recalls on these vehicles and came up with nothing. Call your local dealer and give them your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to run in their database to make sure there’s no action from Chrysler on this condition. If not, perhaps you ran the brake shoes too long on the car, resulting in failure? Or, if they were replaced at one time or another, perhaps the shop used inferior shoes, causing the glue to crystallize that could result in shoe failure. It’s impossible to tell without seeing the old parts and the service history of the vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Lloyd,
Check for a dislodged vacuum line, crossed wire, or an inadvertently grounded sparkplug electrode either from dirt in the air gap or from the electrode crushed down to the ground position. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of these areas. Best to you.
Tom

Sheila,
First, check the coolant level. It sounds like the coolant is low and an air bubble is circulating through the system. If it is low, then check for a coolant leak. If the level is good, then there could be a vacuum leak causing the air blend door to open and close on engine demand. Check the vacuum lines that feed the heater system. There’s a vacuum chamber in the engine compartment that stores vacuum for the heater system to draw on when needed. That chamber is usually made of plastic and it can crack, resulting in erratic heater blend door operation. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of there areas. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

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It’s certainly not new that Toyota is having problems with their vehicles. Week after week the mainstream media seems to come out with a new “update,” much of it simply quoting old news. Let’s take a look at the facts regarding the Toyota recalls and useful information for owners of these vehicles.

The first set of recalls started with what is termed the Floor Mat Recall. In this recall Toyota determined that the gas pedals in some of their vehicles were getting hung up with the floor mats on the front driver’s side, causing unintended acceleration. The next recall was the Gas Pedal Recall. After depressing the gas pedal in some vehicles, it did not completely return to its original position. Next came the Prius/HS250h hybrid ABS Braking Recall, prompted by owners who complained that their ABS brakes felt like they weren’t working adequately. And finally, there is a minor recall of some Tacoma pickups for faulty front driveshafts on 4WD vehicles. There is also an investigation being launched into Corollas for malfunctioning power steering, but there is no recall to date.

Floor Mat Recall

Vehicles involved in the floor mat recall include (info from Toyota’s website):

• 2005-2010 Avalon
• 2007-2010 Camry
• 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2008-2010 Highlander
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2004-2009 Prius
• 2005-2010 Tacoma
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2009-2010 VENZA
• 2009-2010 Pontiac Vibe

Owners of vehicles covered by the floor mat recall should take out any removable driver’s floor mat and not replace it with any other floor mat until they receive the vehicle-based remedy.

After you receive a notification from Toyota that the recall remedy for your vehicle is available, you should take your vehicle to an authorized Toyota dealer. Dealer personnel have been specially trained to implement the following vehicle-based remedy:
Toyota service techs will either modify or replace the accelerator pedals on the subject vehicles to address the risk of floor mat entrapment, even when an older-design all weather floor mat or other inappropriate mat is improperly attached, or is placed on top of another floor mat. Floor surface modifications are also being considered and will be included in the remedy plan for any model for which it is deemed appropriate. For the Camry and Avalon models involved, the shape of the floor surface underneath will also be reconfigured to increase the space between the accelerator pedal and the floor.

Gas Pedal Recall

Toyota discovered that there was a problem with excessive friction buildup on the bottom of the gas pedal of certain vehicles. This condition can cause the gas pedal to stick and, in some instances, not return completely to the original position after being depressed. This recall is in full swing.

Toyota’s accelerator pedal recall is confined to the following Toyota Division vehicles (info from Toyota’s website):

• Certain 2009-2010 RAV4
• Certain 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2005-2010 Avalon
• Certain 2007-2010 Camry
• Certain 2010 Highlander
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2008-2010 Sequoia

No Lexus Division or Scion vehicles are affected by this recall action. Also not affected are Toyota Prius, Tacoma, Sienna, Venza, Solara, Yaris, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser and Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids. Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids are not involved in this action. Further, Camry, RAV4, Corolla and Highlander vehicles with VINs that begin with “J” are not involved.

If you have noticed that your accelerator pedal is hard to depress, slow to return, or is not smooth during operation, the vehicle should be stopped at the nearest safe location, the engine shut off and a Toyota dealer contacted for assistance.

What if you experience a sticking accelerator pedal while driving?

Each circumstance may vary, and drivers must use their best judgment, but Toyota recommends taking one of the following actions:

If you need to stop immediately, the vehicle can be controlled by stepping on the brake pedal with both feet using firm and steady pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal as it will deplete the vacuum utilized for the power brake assist. Shift the transmission gear selector to the Neutral (N) position and use the brakes to make a controlled stop at the side of the road and turn off the engine. If unable to put the vehicle in Neutral, turn the engine OFF. This will not cause loss of steering or braking control, but the power assist to these systems will be lost. If the vehicle is equipped with an Engine Start/Stop button, firmly and steadily push the button for at least three seconds to turn off the engine. Do NOT tap the Engine Start/Stop button. If the vehicle is equipped with a conventional key ignition, turn the ignition key to the ACC position to turn off the engine. Do NOT remove the key from the ignition as this will lock the steering wheel.

Prius/HS250h ABS Brake Recall

(as it appears on Toyota’s website)

Toyota Announces Voluntary Recall on 2010 Model-Year Prius and 2010 Lexus HS 250h Vehicles to Update ABS Software

TORRANCE, Calif., February 8, 2010 – Toyota Motor Sales (TMS), U.S.A., Inc, today announced it will conduct a voluntary safety recall on approximately 133,000 2010 Model Year Prius vehicles and 14,500 Lexus Division 2010 HS 250h vehicles to update software in the vehicle’s anti-lock brake system (ABS). No other Toyota, Lexus, or Scion vehicles are involved in this recall.

The ABS, in normal operation, engages and disengages rapidly (many times per second) as the control system senses and reacts to tire slippage. Some 2010 model year Prius and 2010 HS 250h owners have reported experiencing inconsistent brake feel during slow and steady application of brakes on rough or slick road surfaces when the ABS is activated in an effort to maintain tire traction.

Toyota has responded to owner concerns with a running production change for 2010 Prius that was introduced last month, improving the ABS system’s response time, as well as the system’s overall sensitivity to tire slippage. The production change for the HS 250h is planned for later this month.

The recall will allow Toyota dealers to perform the software update on 2010 Prius vehicles sold prior to this running production change. Only Prius vehicles produced since May 2009 and all HS 250h vehicles are subject to this recall. First- and second-generation Prius vehicles use a different ABS system and are not involved in this campaign. The ABS system on the Lexus HS 250h is similar in design to the Prius. The software adjustment planned for HS 250h production and dealer modification is being finalized and will be announced very soon. Toyota will begin mailing letters to Prius owners included in this recall next week and HS 250h owners within the next few weeks, to let them know when to bring their vehicles into a dealership. Owners will only receive a letter if their vehicle is involved in the recall.

Are Toyota and Lexus bad cars?

I say a hearty NO! The Toyota Motor Company’s reputation is built on a foundation of quality and safety. I believe it is still the basis of the company today and Toyota is moving swiftly to address these issues. The bottom line? It is still a fine car in spite of the recent problems. Toyota will make good on the faulty cars and will rebound as a safety and quality leader again in an effort to regain market dominance. Quite frankly, I think now is a great time to buy a Toyota. Last week, according to Kelly Blue Book, Toyota pricing had dropped an average of 4% across the board. This means a savings of $350 to $700, in addition to the 0% financing (which you never saw until now for a Toyota product). And look for other incentives in the near future to entice buyers back into the showrooms. As I see it, there will be some pretty good deals out there for some fine automobiles.

Well, that’s pretty much the skinny on the Toyota recalls. Call your local Toyota dealer with your VIN number so they can input it into Toyota’s database to see if your vehicle is involved in any of these actions. Or you can go online to: Pressroom.Toyota.com and you will find updates as they come hot off the press. Hope this helps clear things up a bit.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com