Fall and winter months are the harshest months for vehicles, especially those which are hard to maintain. Why wait for a breakdown or a dead battery when the weather is miserable outside? Fix your car while the sun is shining and autumn leaves are falling, then be ready to face winter’s blasts with confidence.

One little-known protection against the cold is weatherstripping the windows, doors, windshield, trunk and other parts of your auto, much as you would your home. You are not only making your car more air and watertight, but also protecting its value and longevity. Custom weatherstripping is available from many leading auto dealers as well as auto parts supply stores like NAPA Auto Parts.

Another way to prepare your auto for those extra hours of darkness in winter is by making sure that all your lights are working and are properly aimed. Of course after long years of using your car’s original lights, you may need to replace them for safe illumination at night or restore them with a 3M Headlight Restoration Kit. However  if you do need to replace them, be sure to install high quality and durable auto lights that will last a long time. Fog lights are very important during fall and winter seasons because they provide low-to-the-road illumination that helps you pass through thick fog, snow and rain. They are specially designed to keep you safe while driving through the worst weather conditions and mountainous roads.

Be sure your car or truck tires are properly inflated to avoid misfortunes on the road. Likewise, check on the car’s air conditioning, heat, exhaust, cooling, starting and electrical systems, not only for comfortable temperatures but also for efficient defrosting and defogging of windows. Get a Free Fall Check from Meineke to make sure your car is running in top condition.

Your car is really like an extension of yourself, so take care of it. No matter how tough its original parts are, you can’t expect them to work perfectly right in the worst weather of the year if you don’t maintain them properly. Treat your car with tender love and care now before cold weather starts playing tricks on you.

Have you ever gone to a quick lube place for an oil change and, while you’re waiting in the lobby for your car, the service bay/sales person informs you that a certain service(s) must be performed on the vehicle immediately to avert a disaster of immense proportion? Many of us can relate to this scenario. The “recommended service” they advise usually includes one or more of the following:

• High mileage oil

• Fuel system cleaning

• Brake fluid flush

• Transmission flush

• Transfer case or differential fluid change

Usually their advice takes the form of an urgent plea, concerned that something dire will happen if you don’t have the service done. What do you do? How do you handle this situation? Knowledge is power; power gives confidence to make the right decisions. So let’s look at each service, the validity of the claim, and whether or not you should follow the advice.

Does Your Vehicle Need High Mileage Oil?

High mileage oils supposedly are formulated with more robust additive packages for better lubrication and rust inhibition, along with a nourishing agent to bring old, hardened oil seals back to life. Well, if that’s true, why didn’t the company initially give me their best formulation so that my car would get more mileage out of the engine in the first place?! Ha! Not being an expert in lubrication and petroleum products, I consulted an expert in the industry to gather more information. Dan Watson, a Certified Lubrication Specialist (STLE) and publisher of www.lubedepot.com and www.maxtorque.com (an E-Zine about diesel power) sent me some bullet points to consider when offered “high mileage oil.”

• High mileage oils are fortified with additional additives for improving the ability of the oil to deal with byproducts of combustion and enhance engine cleanliness.

• Why not make all oils with robust additive packages? (My point exactly) Engines would stay cleaner and be better protected with the stronger additive package from the start.

• The age of the engine has nothing to do with the protection needed to maintain the engine and prevent wear.

• The best procedure is to start out with oil that doesn’t break down and leave sludge and varnish in the engine.

• Start the engine out using high quality synthetic engine oil and you will have superior protection and cleanliness from the start. You will never need a “better oil” when you get to a higher mileage.

• It is important to note all synthetic oils are not the same and some synthetics use virtually the same additive package as the low quality petroleum oils.

• Look for synthetic oils like AMSOIL or Mobil One; these oils have extremely robust additive packages designed for longer drain intervals. This insures you are getting highly additive-ized oil that provides maximum protection and superior cleanliness regardless of vehicle mileage.

Excellent points. Feel free to send Dan your oil and lubrication questions at danwatson@thelubepage.com.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Fuel System Cleaning?

It may come as a surprise to you, but fuel system cleaning isn’t addressed directly in maintenance schedules. I checked six specific year, make, and model vehicles in the ALLDATA database and I came up with only one reference regarding fuel delivery system inspection; and two others, one referencing fuel filter replacement and one referencing fuel line inspection. So this is a gray area. I can tell you that fuel flow creates varnish deposits and that inefficient combustion from worn sparkplugs and wires causes carbon buildup within the engine. Over time, the injectors get clogged with varnish deposits or dirt that’s picked up in the fuel. When this happens, the injectors dribble fuel into the combustion chamber rather than deliver a fine mist of air/fuel mixture for perfect combustion. I can also tell you that chemical companies that develop fuel system cleaning chemicals recommend a complete fuel system cleaning every 30K – 40K miles. Finally, as an automotive machinist, I have seen many cylinder heads and pistons loaded with carbon buildup from inefficient combustion that resulted in lean burn conditions, and thus inefficient and/or damaged engines. All this I know to be true. In addition, I can tell you that fuel additives to the fuel tank alone cannot keep a fuel system clean. During the fuel delivery system cleaning process, industrial strength carbon and varnish cleaners are injected directly into the fuel delivery system while the engine is running. The problem I have with following the recommendation to have this service done at a quick lube is that they “recommend” the service almost every time you stop in for an oil change. Also, I question the quality of the fuel system service they offer. In order for this service to work effectively, they must use a special machine and a specific set of tools, as well as an industrial grade carbon and varnish cleaner. Such equipment, found in high quality repair facilities or dealerships, are often not available at quick lubes. Don’t get me wrong; quick lubes have their place in automotive service. However, I think they are out of their league in this area of service.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Brake Fluid Flush?

Brake fluid flushing is a viable service that should be done if there is rust and sediment in the brake master cylinder. After researching several year, make, and model vehicles in the ALLDATA database, I realized that this is not a recommended service from the manufacturer. At best, carmakers suggest an inspection of the braking system at regular intervals (every 6K miles or so) that includes inspection of the brake fluid along with the rest of the system. The hydraulic braking system is designed as a closed and sealed system. When it is exposed to the atmosphere because of a broken seal or hydraulic cup, the system will draw moisture into itself because of the hydroscopic (moisture absorbing) nature of the brake fluid. So a simple inspection of the brake fluid is all that is required. When checking brake fluid, look for proper level, color, and smell. Brake fluid that is clear/translucent in color, at the proper level, with no evidence of a burnt smell, indicates a healthy braking system. If the color is black or rust-colored, there is a problem. Simple flushing will not repair the root cause of the condition. A dark or black color accompanied by a burnt smell is indication that the system has overheated. There are three causes of overheating: A stuck brake caliper, a seized emergency brake, or a contaminated wheel cylinder that causes a brake shoe to stick in the applied position. A rust-colored fluid indicates that moisture has entered the system, and therefore the system should be checked for a leaking component, a compromised line, or a torn master cylinder gasket. Brake fluid flushing alone without an inspection and/or repair of the root cause of the discolored fluid is not a repair. It is like a band-aid on a compound fracture. I do not recommend regular brake fluid flushing. It is simply not necessary unless a problem with color, level, or smell of the brake fluid is observed.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Transmission Fluid Flush?

As a regular maintenance practice (every 35 – 40K miles) transmission flushing can ensure proper operation and longevity of the transmission. Any more that 35 – 40K miles is overkill. Some carmakers suggest this service every 100K miles or more. However I don’t agree with this timeframe because transmission fluid is oil, and oil breaks down over time (especially when the unit is worked hard). In addition, I don’t agree with just flushing the fluid without replacing the transmission filter. During the flush procedure, if the old filter is left in place, dirt and wear material will be dislodged and go back into the transmission. Dirt is flowing through the unit and contaminating it again. In addition, a worn, dirty filter is expected to do the job it once did when it was new! So when flushing transmission fluid, always replace the filter. Period. On transmissions with high mileage that have a history of being neglected (have not been serviced for many thousands of miles and the fluid is dark and smells burnt, which is evidence of overheating) I do not recommend a transmission flush. On a transmission that has been overheated, internal damage might have occurred. If this is the case, when the transmission is subjected to a complete bath of fresh high-detergency transmission fluid, the transmission will fail internally. Specifically, clutches separate from their backings, rendering the unit useless. If you have a high mileage vehicle and the quick lube shop has recommended a fluid flush, get a second opinion from a drivetrain expert before proceeding… or pay the consequences.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Transfer Case or Differential Fluid Change?

Transfer cases are very quirky units. When the fluid is compromised in any way from overheating or moisture contamination they can malfunction. Symptoms of a malfunction include chatter, engaging and disengaging rapidly while in gear, slow to engage from low to high range, and a host of other strange maladies. I have actually seen TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) where carmakers consult with petroleum companies to come up with a fix for a transfer case problem by virtue of a fluid reformulation. Also, different carmakers use different fluids for their respective transfer cases. Each fluid is uniquely formulated for the respective transfer case application. This is an area of service that I would never leave to a quick lube, but rather to a drivetrain specialist or a dealership. There is simply too much room for error when it comes to filling the unit with the wrong fluid. Differentials also vary in the types of fluids they use. Leave fluid maintenance of these units to the experts!

I hope this clarifies any concerns or questions you might have before heading out to your local quick lube. Remember, knowledge is empowering, and in this case, can save you a lot of time and money (and that’s probably why you are going to the quick lube in the first place).

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I’d like to “swap-out” the Halogen headlights on my 2008 Chrysler T & C for a HID kit. The HID kits come in different brightness values. Are these kits legal for use in New York State? Also, do ceramic disc brake pads make the brake rotors wear out faster than semi-metallic brake pads?
Rick from Sarasota, FL

Rick,
The best place to ask what headlight intensities are legal in NYS is the NYS Dept of Motor Vehicles. I am not sure what the law states; they will know. As for ceramic brake pads, they dissipate heat better, wear less, create no brake dust, are quieter, and are less taxing on rotors than semi-metallic brake pads. In short, a far superior braking product compared to semi-metallics. Buy them and enjoy them. Just make sure you resurface the rotors before installing the new pads. Success to you.
Tom

Jane,
Have the engine scanned for codes. It sounds like the vehicle could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor dumping raw fuel into the engine, a faulty injector driver, or a bad PCM (Power Control Module). Please don’t start replacing parts. Have the proper diagnostics performed to identify the problem and then proceed with the repairs. Otherwise, you could waste a lot of time and money. Success to you.
Tom

Barbara,
I would go through my maintenance records to see what exactly has been done in recent months to determine what could have happened. It’s possible that the engine suffered from oil gelling that caused lubrication starvation. Toyota extended engine warranties on their engines for this problem a few years back. Ask your dealer about this possibility. Also, it sounds to me like the vehicle might have had a bad water pump and all the coolant leaked out, which caused the engine to overheat followed by a blown head gasket. This, in turn, caused engine coolant to mix with the engine oil, causing the bearings to fail and thus catastrophic failure of the engine. Good luck to you.
Tom

Gary,
The circuits that feed or operate the cluster will need to be tested. Sometimes there is a bad power or ground connection at the plug, or a faulty circuit board. If these connections and circuits test okay, then the problem is in the printed circuit of the cluster. This will require either replacement or repair of the cluster. There is a company online called www.mrwhizard.com. This company specializes in repairing digital instrument clusters. You simply send them your old cluster and they either repair it or sent you a newly rebuilt one. It’s a great service and much less cost than a new cluster. Good luck!
Tom

Dustin,
I checked my ALLDATA database and there’s a TSB regarding this condition, Apparently there’s a software update from GM. Take it to your dealer for this update; it should solve your problem. In addition, I suggest having the ABS computer scanned for codes, and check the wheel speed sensors, electrical plugs, and wiring harness for cracked or broken insulation. All these faults could cause these symptoms. The TSB number from GM is Bulletin #: 09-05-25-001.
Tom

Ellie,
First, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge and verify that the oil pressure is really low. If the oil pressure is up to specs, then identify which valve tappet is making noise and open up the valve cover/s to have a look at the valvetrain. This process will allow the tech to get a better grip on what’s happening with the valvetrain and what it will cost to fix. I wish you success.
Tom

Craig,
Seal replacement could stop the leaks. However, if the crank journals are worn then the leak will continue. With this kind of mileage, I think you’re looking at a power plant replacement. Have the crank journals, and rod & main bearings inspected along with the oil pump before proceeding with seal replacement (which would require removing the engine). It may be wise at this stage to replace the engine with a rebuilt unit. I recommend the Jasper replacement engines because they come with the best warranties and are high quality remanufactured units.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 Nissan Altima and I frequently smell burning oil. I check the oil to make sure I always have oil in the engine and add as needed. What could cause this?
Barbara from Milwaukee, WI

Barbara,
Typically, when you smell oil burning, it is because oil is leaking out of the engine and onto a hot engine part such as an exhaust manifold or pipe. This vehicle came with either a 2.5 4 cylinder or a 3.5 4 cylinder engine. I would start by having the valve covers inspected for leakage. This is common after a vehicle gets some age on it. What happens is the valve cover/s leak and oil runs down the side of the engine onto something that is hot and burns the oil. Another cause is a leaking oil sending unit. This device is tapped into an oil gallery and is a sealed plug. When the seal breaks from age, oil leaks out onto the hot engine often resulting in a burning oil smell. A good tech will be able to inspect and determine the cause of the smell in short order. Good luck.
Tom

Laura,
Yes, I would fix it immediately because, if the system runs out of steering fluid, damage could occur to the steering rack or power steering pump. The leak is probably due to a leaking hose, which will cost you way less than a pump or rack replacement. In the meantime, make sure that the system is always full of fluid and that it is not allowed to run out. Good luck.
Tom

Edwin,
Start with checking the master window switch on the driver’s side. Remove the switch, disconnect the plug, find the hot wire and jump each terminal to see if you can get the window to go up and down. If you can, then the switch is bad and needs replacing. If you still can’t get the window to go up and down, then you need to open the door panel and check the window motor and wiring to it. Good luck.
Tom

Josh,
Yes, Hondas are great car, as are Toyotas, Chevys, Nissans, Hyundais, Fords, KIAS and many other vehicles out there. It’s a matter of preference, Josh. Resale values for good quality vehicles are always going to be more than lesser quality, inferior vehicles. The key is to make sure you are buying the vehicle at a fair price given the market value at the time.
Tom

Ray,
I suspect you have a leaking evaporator core in the A/C system. The evaporator is located inside the HVAC box and has refrigerant running through it. When it springs a leak, refrigerant is allowed into the vehicle cabin (that’s the mist you’re seeing). As for the smell? When a leak springs, refrigerant oil soaks the face of the core, and then when air is drawn across the core’s face, dirt is filtered out and sticks to the whole mess. Then mold and mildew form, creating what you describe as cat urine odor. Have a leak test performed on the HVAC box; I think you’ll find that a leaking evaporator unit is the root of this problem. Best to you.
Tom

Deb,
You lost me when you stated, “to see if cleaning them out worked.” Cleaning out what? The engine? Radiator? Hoses? Cooling system? I will assume that you meant radiator tubes because a radiator has multiple tubes through which coolant flows to achieve engine cooling. A process called “rodding” is performed to clean a radiator. When rodding a radiator, the end tanks are removed and a thin rod is run down through each radiator tube to clear any obstruction due to corrosion. This procedure is quite labor intensive and might cost as much if not more than a radiator replacement. Actually, $685 for a radiator replacement is reasonable considering the labor involved (4.0 hrs). The radiator itself is $286 from VW. Plus you have coolant and hose clamps or hose replacement if necessary. I priced a radiator replacement with an OEM VW radiator with a labor rate of $120 per hr with no coolant, hoses or clamps and came up with $766 before tax. Should the radiator need replacing, I think the dealer is very reasonably priced at $685.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I listen to your radio show here in Savannah, GA. Thanks for all you do for us drivers. I drive a 2004 Lincoln LS with an auto transmission. This auto has NO dipstick, much to my dismay! When driving, the shift from 2nd to 3rd can be very rough at times. The dealer tells me he can’t duplicate this! I have had the transmission drained and fluid replaced twice, once by the dealer and another by an independent shop that I trust. I can use any advice you can offer!
Patrick from Savannah, GA

Patrick,
Thanks for listening down Georgia-way! I researched your problem and came up with a possible solution. Ford issued a TSB on this condition, it is TSB # 05-21-8. According to this bulletin, there may be a problem with the shift solenoids in the transmission causing harsh shift points. If you have your local dealer reference this TSB they will probably be able to solve your problem. Best to you.
Tom

Dottie,
Ford Motor Company issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this condition. It involves checking the tires for flat spots, tire-to-wheel fitment, and overall tire diameter. Flat spots on the tires will cause vibration. Also, if the tires are too wide for the rims, vibration will occur. Finally, vibration also occurs when the overall diameter of one or more tires is greater or lesser than another. The TSB number is: 08-24-2. Have your repair shop look this up and perform the service. Success to you.
Tom

John,
The camshaft position sensor measures the position of the cam lobes and adjusts ignition timing to achieve maximum combustion efficiency in the engine. Before you get in way over your head with this repair, call your local dealer and ask them about TSB # 12 12 99 from BMW. It involves replacing the camshaft position-sensor with an updated one. Apparently there were problems with the cam sensors that were installed at the factory. Good luck.
Tom

Cookie,
Your car has a strut/shock configuration. Have the front struts and strut mounts, as well as the rear shocks checked. Sounds like they are at the end of their respective lives. If you had them replaced recently, or they’re in good shape, then have the stabilizer bar links and mounts checked. Oftentimes, when the links or mounts go bad, the bar will bang on the underside of the vehicle when going over bumps in the roadways. Good luck.
Tom

Mary,
That car has rear drum brakes. It sounds like a brake shoe is hanging up. There are a number of things that can cause this to happen: A lack of lubrication between the shoes and backing plate, or a bad wheel cylinder, or a frozen emergency brake cable, or the lining is coming loose from the steel backing. At any rate, get it into a shop so they can take the wheels off and find the source of the problem.
Tom

Lulu,
I suspect that you have a bad brake light switch. Typically, these switches go bad over time and an electrical short causes the brake lights to stay on. The switch is located at the top of the brake pedal arm and is easy to replace. To check it, simply disconnect the electrical plug and see if the lights go out. If they do, the switch is bad. If they don’t, your car has wiring issues that must be traced down in order to do the repair. If this is the case, take it to a shop.
Tom

Jerry,
I just had the same thing happen with my Toyota pickup, same year and model. A starting system analysis revealed that it was the starter. I removed it and took it to a rebuilder and, when they opened the starter up, they found that the contacts inside the motor had burned which caused the intermittent starting condition. They replaced the burnt contacts and the truck starts every time. The repair cost was $45 as opposed to over $200 for a rebuilt unit. Sweet.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Over the years trends develop in the auto industry by virtue of a phenomenon I call “media chatter.” Several press releases start to percolate to the surface from unrelated outlets in the media. For example, when Chrysler Corp was on the verge of bankruptcy the first time, chatter of an anticipated Daimler takeover (“merger?”) started bubbling up to the surface. Within just a few months it was announced that “A Merger of Giants” (Daimler Benz and Chrysler Corp) was about to take place. Later, it ended bitterly when the stock plummeted to historic lows ($25-$28 a share) and Daimler Executive Jurgeon Schremp was ousted. There were rumors that he had leaked information regarding the “merger,” and that it was never intended to be a merger but rather a takeover. It appears he was a few steps ahead of everyone else during negotiations, intending to acquire (rather than merge) with Chrysler. The point? Media chatter forecasted the “merger” long before it happened.

Lately the media chatter is singing a new tune about the electrification of the auto industry. For this reason, I believe we are on the cusp of widespread vehicular electrification. For the record, in previous articles I have stated that four things have to happen before widespread electrification of the auto industry could take place.

• Consumer acceptance of electric vehicles
• Improvement of battery technology
• Accessibility to the charging infrastructure
• Support from the carmakers

Consumer acceptance of electric vehicles

This is a tough one given the existing hurdles of restricted distance due to limited battery technology and the lack of a charging infrastructure. However, the Chevy Volt is off to a good start. The combination of a small gas-powered generator to power and recharge the batteries is a green light for a long-range electric vehicle that provides the confidence to venture out. I believe this solution will generate wide demographic acceptance of electric vehicles, including baby boomers (who are somewhat skeptical about electrics), as well as Gen-Xers & Yers (who tend to be risk takers). The bottom line? People won’t drive electric vehicles unless they feel secure, knowing they won’t get stranded with a dead battery. Look for a nationwide educational campaign about the benefits of electric vehicles to begin this year.

Improvement of battery technology

This is still a distance off. Present battery technology simply does not offer enough freedom to consumers, enabling them to travel the distance guaranteed with a tank of gas or diesel fuel. Battery technology coupled with electric motor/drivetrain technologies must offer a distance of at least 200 – 300 miles on a single charge in all weather and roadway conditions before consumers accept electric vehicles on a widespread basis. Tesla seems to have breached this baseline. Tesla is the first production electric vehicle offered that travels more than 200 miles on a single charge. However, the obvious question arises, under what weather and roadway conditions were the Tesla roadsters able to log this kind of mileage under a single charge? The world distance record of 311 miles for a production electric car on a single charge was set by a Tesla roadster on October 27, 2009, during the Global Green Challenge. It took place in the Outback of Australia at an average speed of 25MPH. Now please understand that in the Outback of Australia during October it is summer weather. That said, 311 miles on a single charge is still not a bad number given the cushy circumstances under which it was logged. According to the EPA, the Tesla roadster can travel 244 miles on a single charge of its lithium-ion battery pack, and can accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in 3.7 seconds (I can’t find the data defining the conditions under which these stats were logged). The roadster’s efficiency, as of September 2008, was reported as 120 MPG. So it seems that Tesla has definately started to break ground in the battery technology arena. Now the carmakers need to translate Tesla’s success to a full sized family sedan or SUV. There is the ticket to success in electric vehicles!

Accessibility to the charging infrastructure

A charging infrastructure has to be built before there is widespread acceptance of electric cars. With access to charging stations, consumers will no longer be anxious about the range of travel. Years ago, when the car industry was getting started, GM realized that in order for cars to become a working member of the family, a highway system had to be built to support travel. Hence GM supported the building of America’s Super Highway System, which stemmed the birth of suburbia, which in turn fueled the need for cars. The same logic applies to electrification of the car industry. Recent press releases indicate that some of the US & Japan’s automakers are working with power companies to develop a widespread charging station infrastructure that would first cover metropolitan areas, then spread across the country.

Support from the carmakers

As of the writing of this article, Ford, Mercedes, Toyota, and Chevrolet have all announced aggressive plans to bolster electric vehicle production. I expect more onboard this year.

In summary, sitting in the catbird seat of the automotive media, I have the opportunity to observe trends develop early on. The phenomenon I call “media chatter” begins long before a thing comes to the light of day. And the “media chatter” regarding electric vehicles is growing. In January these headlines all appeared within a week of each other:

• No Small Promise: Ford Delivers on Commitment With 10 New Small Cars and Electrification Plans DETROIT, Jan. 10, 2011 /PRNewswire

• IBM Study: Electric Cars Stir Interest But Face Obstacles Nearly one-fifth of drivers are likely to consider an electric vehicle Drivers reluctant to bear the cost of home charging ARMONK, N.Y., Jan. 11, 2011 /PRNewswire

• Johnson Controls Breaks Ground on Fully-Integrated Battery Recycling Facility FLORENCE, S.C., Jan. 18, 2011 /PRNewswire

• Detroit First Responders Get Electric Vehicle Safety Training. Chevrolet, OnStar and National Firefighters Prevention Association Host Sessions DETROIT, Jan. 19, 2011 /PRNewswire/

• Germany “shifting” to electrically powered cars. 11th International Advanced Automotive Battery Conference BERLIN and PASADENA, California, January 21, 2011/PRNewswire/

So I ask you faithful readers… will we be driving electric cars soon? In my humble opinion, I think so. ZZZZZZZAAAAPPPPPPP!

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with 73,500 miles and the front brakes were replaced last November. A couple of months ago I was driving down the highway and a I felt the car riding rough as if it had a flat tire, then I smelled smoke. I pulled over to the side and saw smoke coming from the left rear wheel! I had the car towed to the nearest Hyundai dealer and they said I needed rear brakes so I had them installed. A month later the same thing happened! Why?
Abe from Ashtabula, OH

Abe,
Have the emergency brake cables checked to see if they’re sticking in the “on” position. Quite often the cables freeze up due to rust and corrosion from exposure to road salt. When you apply the e-brake and then release it, the rear brakes stay in the applied position. This action wears out the rear brakes prematurely. If the vehicle is equipped with 4 wheel disc brakes, you could have a stuck brake caliper-slide causing this condition. Get it up on a lift and have the brakes checked again. Good luck to you.
Tom

Cy,
The compression might be good but the oil pressure might be in the toilet. Get a mechanical gauge hooked to the oil gallery where the oil pressure sensor is located and check it. This procedure eliminates the possibility of a bad oil pressure sensor. If the pressure is indeed low, then partial engine disassembly is necessary to evaluate internal wear. If the pressure is good, then you probably have a bad oil pressure sensor. My guess? At this mileage the oil pump is worn, as well as the main/rod bearing. At this mileage, the car doesn’t owe you anything. Maybe a total rebuild or replacement with a remanufactured unit such as a Jasper engine is in order if the body is still in good shape. Best to you.
Tom

David,
Initially this sounded out of line to me so I checked the Toyota maintenance schedule as per ALLDATA to confirm my suspicions. According to the maintenance schedule for this car, there’s nothing to indicate any such costs associated with the 30K mile maintenance.
See for yourself. Here is a list of the items at 30,000 miles as per Toyota for the 2010 Prius. I see nothing that would indicate a cost of $3,000. Sounds you’re your information source was wrong. I like the Prius as do the majority of the country’s motor press, so buy away!
Air Filter Element Replace, Ball Joint Inspect, Body and Frame Tighten/Torque, Brake Hose/Line Inspect, Cabin Air Filter Replace, Condenser, HVAC Inspect, Constant Velocity Joint Boot Inspect, Coolant Inspect, Disc Brake System Inspect, Drive Belt Inspect, Drum Brake System Inspect, Engine Oil Replace, Evaporative Emissions Hose Inspect, Exhaust System Inspect Fluid – A/T Inspect, Fuel Filler Cap Inspect, Fuel Supply Line Inspect, Fuel Tank Mounting Straps Inspect, Oil Change Reminder Lamp Reset, Oil Filter, Engine Replace, Radiator Inspect, Spark Plug Inspect, Steering Inspect, Steering Gear Inspect, Tires Rotate.

Evan,
First off, thanks so much for your service to our country. I see no reason to use this or any other oil treatment, especially in the engines of such thoroughbred of cars. These are high performance engines. I suggest that you start using synthetic motor oil, and I highly recommend AMSOIL because it is the best on the market. Oil treatments throw off the delicate blend of chemical fortifier packages, which sacrifices lubricating and rust inhibiting capacities, and (in some cases), causes acid buildup in the crankcase, which is not good for bearings. Just keep fresh synthetic oil in the engine according to the manufacturer drain intervals and you should log many more miles on these wonderful driving machines. Success to you.
Tom

Melvin,
Sometimes when the wheels sit overnight and it is cold outside, condensation forms on the rotor faces and a light film of rust forms. When you drive the vehicle in the morning, the rust is being scraped off by the brake pads, which causes the scrubbing sound. Once the rust is gone, the noise goes away. Additionally, have the inner fender wells checked. It’s possible that one of the wells has dropped due to a broken retainer and the tire is hitting it. Finally, it could be a seized brake caliper; in this case, the brake can’t retract after letting off the brake pedal. Get the vehicle into a shop for a brake and undercarriage inspection. Best to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder and it had a squeaky belt since I bought it in 2006. It only squeaked when it was cold outside, and the squeak lessened as the car warmed up. I got tired of the noise so I replaced the serpentine belt a few months ago (the old one was pitted and cracked). Well, the noise stopped for a day or two. Now it squeaks in both cold and warm weather! And the noise is constant! However, it does stop when the car gets to a certain rpm. The noise is loud and drives me crazy. How can it be the belt when it is new? What else can it be? I am desperate…
Debbie from Portsmouth, NH

Debbie,
It sounds like the automatic belt tensioner has gone bad, which would cause the belt to squeak in both cold and warm weather. The tensioner is a spring-loaded idler pulley that rides against the back of the belt as it courses around the pulley system. When it goes bad, the belt squeals. Have it checked out. My guess is that it will need to be replaced. I wish you success.
Tom

Rahim,
On a 2006 Lexus, if the converter were indeed bad, I would want to look for an uncontrolled high fuel delivery cause. Typically the temperature sensor goes bad and dumps raw fuel inside the engine. The converter can’t process excessive, unburned, raw fuel so a rock of carbon forms and eventually stops the exhaust stream. This condition causes the vehicle to stall due to high backpressure. Yes, you do need to replace the converter. However, more importantly, you need to stop the uncontrolled fuel delivery to make sure the converter doesn’t clog again.
Tom

Alice,
Check your owner’s manual for octane requirements. I would guess anything 89 and higher would be acceptable. The reason they told you to use premium is because the car has a high performance engine meaning that it has high compression pistons, creating a much hotter combustion chamber environment. Regular octane fuel ignites easier in such an environment because it’s not as stable as premium fuel. If you use regular octane over a prolonged period of time, you will damage the engine. Success to you.
Tom

David,
It is difficult for me to give you proper advice, since I can’t see the problem to evaluate it. However, here goes… If the dash is pulling away from the vehicle’s interior, I would get under the dash and try to move it while shining a light underneath to see if there are any loose mounting bolts. If the dashboard is coming away from the dash’s foundational structure, then look for a loose or missing securing bolt. Finally, if the external pad is lifting up, go to your local body shop supply house and ask for a pad sealer. If it comes loose again after you glue it back into place, you will have to replace the dash. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Tom

Ray,
You might have done just that, Ray, and I agree. Why can’t carmakers offer an option of Photo-Gray window glass for automobiles? Brilliant concept! I love it!
Tom

Duane,
Using higher octane than the carmaker recommends is not detrimental to your vehicle. However, it IS detrimental to your wallet! And you don’t get any better performance with a higher octane fuel in this case. Drop to 87 octane and enjoy the pleasures of driving a vehicle that costs you less. Best to you.
Tom

Robin,
I researched the engine mount issue and found that the mounts on that car tend to degrade because the rubber portions of the mounts are exposed to the intense heat from the exhaust manifolds. There are updated mounts from Cadillac that can withstand higher temperatures. As for the tie rods, there are no problems listed from Cadillac, so I would question the quality of the parts that are being installed. Finally, there are no pending class actions on these problems with your car. Good luck.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 F250 4X4 Ex Cab w/ 6.0 L Diesel. What are your thoughts on the chip tuners such as Bully Dog and Super Chips? Are they worth the investment?
Douglas from Tornado, WV

Douglas,
Chip tuners create excessive boost and blow out head gaskets on diesel engines. There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Ford stating that Ford Motor Company is aware that the ONLY reason for the head gaskets blow out is from a chip installation. If a vehicle comes into a dealership with blown head gaskets, the first thing the dealer must check is a performance/chip modification. According to Ford, if ANY performance/chip modification is found, the repair goes from warranty to customer pay, and Ford relinquishes all responsibility for the engine failure. And don’t think if you remove the chip before bring the truck in for service that they won’t detect it, because one look at the vehicle’s datastream history will tell them that a chip has been installed. Computer chip or $1500 repair? Your choice. Is it worth it?
Tom

Lee,
If it was a rod it would knock all the time. Your description reminds me of a condition that GM has with their V6 and V8 engines, referred to as “Piston Slap.” GM says that Piston Slap is the result of the piston rocking in the bore until it warms up and expands, essentially taking up the slop or slap. According to GM, this condition will not result in major engine damage. Check out the following website out for more info on Piston Slap: www.pistonslap.com. A device called an “engine ear” should be used during the diagnostic process to pinpoint the noise. An “engine ear” is a set of microphones attached to a set of headphones, which can be moved all over the engine until the exact source of the noise is found. This device is very effective in tracking down an offending engine noise.
Tom

Lucas,
The throttle linkage needs to be checked out. There was a problem with the clip that holds the kick down cable on the throttle on this model vehicle. In fact, Ford issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this problem. When this happens, the transmission won’t shift properly and, if the vehicle is driven for long period of times, the transmission will burn up from partial engagement. Check with your Ford dealer to see if there was a new throttle linkage clip issued to remedy this problem. Finally, check out www.nhtsa.gov and do a TSB database search for your year, make, and model vehicle, you will be able to get the details of the TSB from this site.
Tom

Don,
The products I recommend to correct this condition are: Castle Products’ Dragon Power; Kinetic Labs’ K100G, and Chevron’s Techron fuel injector cleaner. A loose ground wire to the fuel tank sending unit can also cause this problem. It’s located on top of the tank. Better check that too. Good luck.
Tom

Sally,
The only way to get your radio unlocked is to go to your local Honda dealership. They will have to identify the radio code, access the information through their database, and unlock the radio. They will give you the code for future use if needed. This service usually costs about $60 – $100 depending on what area of the country you live and the shop’s labor rate. You could also replace the OEM radio with an aftermarket unit, which is usually the best course of action. For about $150 you can get a wonderful head unit that will deliver concert quality sound out of your speaker system. While you’re at it, you could install a sub woofer enclosure, amplifiers, perhaps upgrade the speaker system, and install tweeters in the front of the vehicle. Oooooo baby, what pristine sound! [Somebody Stop Me From Spending Sally’s Money!!]
Tom

Ellen,
Quite often, the shoots at the base of the windshield or on the wiper arm clog with dried soap. Try clearing the shoots with a paper clip; make sure all hoses are clear as well. If everything is clear, then the washer pump is bad and needs to be replaced. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

And even though having a GPS in your vehicle can be both helpful and a major time and money saver if you use it correctly it also has some potential bad points that may bring it down a notch or two in your eyes.

One of the immediate concerns that people have is that the GPS tracks your every movement and can tell whomever is checking all about your habits. If you are speeding they have no need to clock you on radar, they can just send you a ticket; sounds like fantasy but it’s not too far from becoming fact.

The amount of information that is collected by these GPS units can be stored by whoever is gathering the data and saved, and can be used at a later time and for something that is completely not what the user had wanted or intended.

If the police get hold of your speed off of the GPS there is no way that you will be able to contest the ticket and the fine since it is your car and not the one behind you, as could be argued with radar gun tickets.

Also, as the quality of technology changes, the ability of someone to remotely do things to you inside the vehicle comes into play. How about the person on the other end of the GPS system, like On Star for example being able to lock or unlock you in a car? Or start or shut off your car should they deem it needed?

Every one of these seem like something from a science fiction novel and yet they are documented. A gentleman rented a car from Acme Rent a Car and added on the GPS package for convenience while traveling. The unit actually stored data as he drove and the next month, after returning home he found himself with a bill in the mail from the car company because the GPS calculated that he had been speeding. The amount of that bill was $450. Notice that this was not even a police ticket, merely a bill from the rental car place because he was going too fast. He fought it and did finally win the case but it certainly raises some well- founded concerns.

What is even more disturbing to me is that the courts in the case, while not making him pay the bill, also didn’t see anything wrong with the company doing that. They did not consider it an invasion of privacy or any type of violation of his rights as a renter.

There are a lot of positive advances in technology that actually help us and make our lives or the enjoyment of our lives more pronounced. However, we also have to be aware that anything can be used in a negative or bad way and it is up to us, as consumers, to help keep track of what is going on with and to us.

Although built-in car GPS units are not covered by extended auto warranties, there are many items that are, including airbag coverage. Visit the Warranty Direct web site – find out what is covered on your car, and get a free, instant quote for extended auto warranty coverage.

What are some of the other good points about having a GPS in your car?

How about saving gas? If you know where you are going and get there in the shortest and via the most efficient route you will save money and thus, fuel. Good for the wallet and good for the planet.

It makes it demonstrably easier to concentrate on the road since you won’t be reading the map, balancing a coke in one hand and talking on your cell phone with the other, and steering with your knees.

As the technology continues to evolve many other things can and will be incorporated into the GPS in your vehicle. Things like allowing the vehicle to be tracked and located in the event that someone who is not authorized should borrow the car, as in it is stolen. That will also help lower the insurance rates.

And speaking of insurance, the rates may drop even lower for you once the insurance company is able to track your driving habits like actual mileage driven, maximum speeds attained, and things along that line.

How about being able to locate your teenager at a moment’s notice? They can ignore the cell phone and the text messages and claim that they never got them. The GPS however will tell you not only where they are but where they have been.

Another absolute big problem that will become a thing of the past, as the GPS evolves as a major part of the vehicle system, is the incorporation of an ignition interlock system, so that should someone enter the vehicle and not be sober, the car will not start. There are many anti-drink and drive options that you will see becoming standard over the next few years that will help the police combat the impaired drivers on the highway.

Some of these things are now a reality in the GPS systems incorporated in the vehicles of today and others, as well as improvements not even on the board now, will make the use of your GPS more fun and functional, and make your life less expensive and safer.

As it moves along and technology becomes a more important part of your vehicle, there may be sensors incorporated that are capable of detecting when you are doing an excessive amount of swerving and weaving, which will help alert you to the fact that you have over indulged, or maybe that you are just too tired to be behind the wheel.

Each and every one of these improvements are designed to help make sure that the vehicle of tomorrow is safer than they are today and allow you to get the most out of your time behind the wheel.

Repairs to built-in car GPS units are not covered by extended auto warranties; however, there are many items that are, including airbag coverage. Visit the Warranty Direct web site – find out what is covered on your car, and get a free, instant quote for an extended auto warranty.

DVD and Video systems are becoming more and more popular in cars. They are great for families with kids and also cool for people who simply like to have their car decked out with the latest and greatest.

There are a ton of options when it comes to getting your car upgraded with DVD capabilities and LCD monitors. Monitors can be mounted to the roof of your car or built in to the headrests of captain chairs – You can have monitors placed inside the dash of your car or even built directly into your sun visor. The systems can allow for GPS, watching movies, playing video games, mp3 hook-ups and listening to your favorite CD’s.

If you’re going to deck out your car this is a definitely a cool way to do it, however, it can get pricey. An 8” roof mount flip down monitor DVD player can cost you over $300, and that doesn’t include the cost for the factory to install it and get it in sync with your cars speaker system.

So if you are going to make the decision to upgrade your car by getting a factory installed DVD/Video system, make sure you are covered by an extended warranty that will help you maintain your new toy – the LuxuryCare package by Warranty Direct provides coverage for factory installed DVD and Video systems. It also covers other factory installed electronics such as, GPS navigation, phone/Bluetooth systems and Internet access systems. It’s a great plan for people who love their car gadgets.

Yet, even with all the cool stuff that is currently available there are still even more high-tech gadgets to come.

In 2010 there will be sign recognition systems available in cars that will be able to read wrong-way signs and speed limits. Cameras may replace side view mirrors and the images would be displayed on the edges of the rear view mirror, or on the instrument panel.

Another cool advancement we may find in the future is “Chatty Cars.” Chatty Cars would communicate through a network that would monitor signals from car systems and warn other cars. For example, skidding due to icy roads could be transmitted to warn other drivers who are approaching.

Bumper bags are also being created and they could help SUVs be less destructive when hitting a low riding car.

High-tech gadgets are great for motorists and their technology allow for convenience, but it’s important to learn how to use these gadgets before getting on the road. With all this new equipment, drivers should have an extended auto warranty to protect themselves from technology and electrical system failures.

Anymore, getting the sexiest accessories in their rides, such as Bluetooth cell phone integration, is a big concern for a lot of buyers. 9 of the top 20 accessories people are most interested in are cool features such as backup assist, navigation, premium surround sound, satellite and HD-Radio.

One of the best perks of a brand-new car is the hottest technology and convenience options offered with a new vehicle. But you don’t have to purchase a new car or truck to get the coolest new toys. In fact, for the fee of a few loan payments, you can include just about any longed-for electronic feature to your current car.

Really big these days is the need to incorporate a portable music gadget such as an iPod or Zune. Fully half of all car owners listen to some type of digital music player in their cars, and more than 95% of new car buyers own a portable device, including a cell phone or navigation system.

Fortunately it doesn’t necessitate another 5 or 6 year-long car payment schedule to obtain the newest in-car gadgets. The most desired features (even HD-Radio and backup cameras) are all obtainable via the aftermarket.

You’ve got your ride pimped out just the way you want it – now make sure you protect yourself and your car by buying an extended car warranty. This way you won’t have to worry about car repairs down the road, and can enjoy the scenery and tunes as you cruise.

Please note: most extended car warranties do not cover factory installed luxury accessories like:

• GPS Navigation Systems
• DVD/Entertainment Systems
• Internet Access Systems
• Phone Systems