Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 GMC Envoy with 54,000 miles. It has a big engine and only gets 15.5 MPG. Although I love my Envoy, I did consider getting a new SUV (maybe a 4 cylinder) to get better mileage and performance, but I can’t afford to do that right now. I heard that there’s a special air filter that increases mileage and performance in vehicles. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what it is? Or is there is something else I could do? Thank you.
Joanie from West Seneca, NY

Joanie,
Yes, there is an air filter that will increase gas mileage and performance. It’s called K&N. Have one installed in your vehicle. In addition, make sure the tires are inflated properly and change the engine oil to synthetic oil. Finally, change the transmission fluid to synthetic, as well as all the differentials and transfer case. This action will also increase fuel mileage because you will reduce friction in these components by using synthetic lubricants. Best to you.
Tom

James,
The engine in your wagon is a 5.7-liter. No it is not a Corvette engine. The Kelly Blue Book value in “pristine condition” is $5,700. That’s all you can expect to get unless you find someone who can’t live without it and is willing to pay whatever you ask. Then you can click your ruby red slippers three times and say to yourself, “There’s no place like home” and then … wake up and smell the coffee. Come on, James! It’s a Buick station wagon!
Tom

Tina,
I have been buying gas from “the rez” for twenty years with not one problem. Over the years I have heard various comments about gasoline from the reservations. For example, it was rumored that the proprietors on the Indian Reservation were irresponsible and did not check their tanks, tank seals, or pump calibration. Also, they bought cheap gas that had water in it to resell to the public, and many other ridiculous accusations. Since my experience said otherwise, I decided to speak to JD, the manager of Seneca One Stop, in an attempt to understand why these rumors have reigned for years. He offered no reason as to why these rumors exist. However, he showed me the tests that Seneca One Stop goes through to ensure that their tanks are water free, do not leak, and pump gas accurately. He assured me that the quality of the gas they buy is the highest quality offered to the motoring public. He stated that, because of the negative perception, they were overly cautious to make sure they had no problems. I cannot speak for any other Indian fueling stations because I didn’t speak to anyone except Seneca One Stop. However I have purchased “Indian gas” from other proprietors and have never had a problem (unlike a few non-Indian stations I have experienced problems with and later confirmed water was indeed in the gas). Why the rumors? In our capitalistic system, businesses compete for our dollars, so sometimes they talk negatively about one another to get a let-up on their competition. That’s just the way of the world.
Tom

Brian,
I have never heard this urban legend. However, I can tell you that the head gasket on your Nissan engine is probably blown, and that your son probably overheated the engine and drove it in that state until the head gasket blew out. This explains why the engine coolant is disappearing. It is being drawn from the cooling system into the engine and out the tailpipe. Have a talk with you son. I am sure he will confirm this suspicion. Have the engine compression tested and a cylinder leak down test performed. These tests will identify which cylinder is leaking. Removal of the head and resurfacing is necessary before replacing the head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

You can also download the file by clicking here: Tom Torbjornsen Explains How To Purchase A Used Car Warranty

To hear the entire show visit America’s Car Show’s Sirius/XM Radio Archives and select the July 4th’s show.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘02 Toyota Highlander 4 cylinder, 62,000 miles. My local shop sent me a notice to have the EFI throttle body serviced. What is an EFI throttle body and how often does it need service? The vehicle is running fine, so I wonder if this service is really necessary at this time?
Bert from San Dimas, MX

Bert,
EFI stands for Electronic Fuel Injection and Throttle Body is the term for a component in the injection system where air is taken into the engine. Fuel injection systems require cleaning at regular intervals, every 35 – 40 thousand miles. This process is necessary because varnish deposits, dirt, and carbon build up on the end of the injector nozzles, inside fuel rails, inside intake plenums, on the tops of the pistons, and inside the cylinder heads and valves. The cleaning process involves injecting an industrial grade carbon cleaner into the system, and then letting it sit to liquefy any carbon buildup in the engine. A professional cleaning of the injection system and upper regions of the engine usually results in increased performance and better fuel mileage.
Tom

Ruthann,
In regards to the spastic oil pressure reading, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge to confirm actual oil pressure. If it is low, the engine will have to be disassembled for proper inspection of the parts that relate to oil pressure. If the oil pressure is okay, then check for a bad sending unit or wiring to the unit (this is most likely the cause of the erratic readings). The popping sound could be a bad ball joint, control arm bushing shock, or some other suspension part. Get the truck up in the air for a suspension inspection. Success to you.
Tom

Bob,
I can’t answer why the knock appeared so suddenly unless I explored the engine. The cause could be a bad oil pump, excessive sludge buildup preventing oil flow to bearings, bad engine oil, as well as a host of other reasons. Pistons are connected to the crankshaft via a connecting rod. The rod bolts to the crank using a split metal cap. Bearing inserts are placed on the cap and this surface is what rides in the crankshaft journal. Oil is pumped into the bearing saddle and acts as a cushion between the crank journal and the bearing surface. The reason for the knock? The bearing inserts at the end of the connecting rod have worn out, causing a hammering (or knocking) effect when the piston travels up and down. Your mechanic’s assessment of replacement or rebuilding is probably accurate. Before sentencing your engine to death in the bone yard, drop the oil pan and inspect the crankshaft to evaluate the extent of the damage. I wish you success.
Tom

Barb,
If you think the shop will not like the fact that you want to see the parts that need replacing then you are going to the wrong shop (and your husband has the wrong attitude). As a consumer you are entitled to see why the work needs to be done. I suggest you find a dependable repair shop if this tire shop will be offended because you want to see what needs repairing or replacing. Call your local Triple A, ask for an Approved Repair Center in your area, and get a second opinion. As for the ‘lit’ ABS light, the brake computer has to be scanned for codes and the malady repaired (perhaps a speed sensor, broken wiring, or hub assembly). In regards to the transmission question, if the fluid in your trans were burnt or very brown, then yes, I would say to leave it alone because the trans has probably been overheated. When a trans overheats it cooks the clutches and rubber seals. When you replace the fluid on a ‘cooked’ unit, the clutches come unglued from their backing and the unit fails. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

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Dear Tom,
I bought a new 2010 Audi A4 in August of last year. Two months and 1600 miles later the oil light went on and the oil level was at the minimum line on the dipstick. It required a quart of oil. When I called the Audi service at the dealership they said that’s normal and that the Audi engine burns oil to the tune of about a quart every 2,000 miles. Is this true? I always thought having to put oil in meant leaking seals, gasket gone, or some other problem. What do you say?
Rod from IA

Rod,
Commonly, during the break-in period, an engine will “use” (not burn) oil. Why? Because mating surfaces are being established and metal is rubbing against metal causing friction. This process increases the operating temperatures and consequently uses oil. Now that the engine has 1500 miles on it, switch over to synthetic oil, which stands up to friction, heat, and chemical contamination much better than conventional petroleum based oil. If the engine continues to use oil at this rate, I would lodge a complaint with customer service so that it is a matter of record when and if the engine fails prematurely.
Tom

Christian,
What do you tell the folks when you have your A/C serviced? Exactly what you told me! That will lead them to a system analysis including a head pressure test, This will tell the tech if there’s a stoppage in refrigerant flow (which I think is causing the freezing of the refrigerant regulating valve in the system). Also, check the air blend doors to make sure they’re staying open when the system is in operation, because a stuck or broken air blend door will shut off cabin airflow. Let the techs do their job. Don’t tell them what to fix or replace or you might get what you ask for and not an effective repair.
Tom

Ray,
Sounds like there is condensation buildup from a plugged drain in the HVAC box. When organic material (leaves and plant matter) get into the air intake at the base of the windshield, it rots and forms a black paste that plugs the condensation drain. This causes water to build up in the box and blow into the vehicle in the form of a mist. Have the drain checked and unplugged to stop the misting problem. As for the cat-urine-like smell, when water does not drain, mold spores grow in the evaporator case, producing the offensive odor. Try spraying a whole can of Lysol into the air intake with the A/C running. This will kill the mold and eliminate the smell. If it doesn’t, the case will have to come apart in order to check for a bad evaporator core. Best to you.
Tom

Peter,
The best advice I can give is to find another shop capable of tracking down such a problem. A vacuum leak should not be hard to find. Either a line or vacuum driven component such as a power brake booster is leaking, or the intake gasket or manifold is leaking. Have a vacuum gauge attached to the intake manifold and read the vacuum. If it is vacillating wildly on the face of the gauge there’s a vacuum leak in the engine, probably in the intake manifold. Try spraying carbon cleaner at the base of the intake. If the engine picks up and/or smoothes out then you have found your vacuum leak. Good luck!
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

NASHVILLE, TN., (April 28, 2010) – Baker Curb Racing announced today that Scott Lagasse Jr.’s No. 43 Ford Fusion will promote WarrantyDirect.com, one of the largest and most established extended vehicle warranty companies in North America in Friday night’s Bubba Burger 250 at Richmond International Raceway. Lagasse Jr. currently ranks 10th in the NASCAR Nationwide driver point standings after eight races, having gained 22 spots over the last seven races.

“We are very excited about the opportunity to promote WarrantyDirect.com through this partnership with Baker Curb Racing and Scott Lagasse Jr.,” said Tara Williams, Senior Vice President of Warranty Direct. “NASCAR fans are passionate about their sport and are very brand loyal to the companies that support their favorite teams. Scott is off to a great start to the 2010 season and we look forward to seeing the WarrantyDirect.com No. 43 Ford Fusion up front in Richmond on Friday night.”

About Warranty Direct
For nearly 30 years, Warranty Direct has been part of one of the largest and most established extended vehicle service companies in North America. We’ve also been the company that customer’s turn to when they want reliable, comprehensive coverage for their cars, trucks, and vans. Since the beginning, our goal has been to provide exceptional personal service, eliminate hassles, and develop the gold standard for extended vehicle service plans. How do we do it? It actually begins with you. We make it our point to put ourselves in our customers’ shoes and ask what we would want from an extended vehicle service company. Then, we go above and beyond to deliver precisely that experience to every person that has one of our plans. For more information visit: http://www.warrantydirect.com

About Baker Curb Racing
Combining speed and sound, Baker Curb Racing brings a unique tune to the Nashville and the NASCAR Nationwide Series. Owners Gary Baker and Mike Curb combine for over 100 years of experience in NASCAR and national marketing and branding. The team became a vision of Baker and Curb’s passions for racing and a desire to bring a new professional team to the landscape of Nashville and to help satiate the desires of local NASCAR fans. To keep up with all the happenings of the team, visit www.bakercurb.com

For more information:
Andy Gee
315-566-9034 or agee@bakercurb.com

Click here to listen: Alvin Casillas Talks About Warranty Direct Extended Warranties

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Rounding The Turns At PIR

This years Sprint Cup race will go an additional 63 laps and miles on the one-mile oval, up from 312, The new distance will be 375 laps/miles will be the longest race since Phoenix International Raceway began hosting NASCAR in 1988. PIR measures its Cup races in kilometers, so it will be just over 603 kilometers, up from the previous 500 km. The race is sponsored by Subway and is known as the Subway Fresh Fit 600.

Last year’s winner was Mark Martin, who also had the pole position. However, all the top 35 drivers all have a shot at winning:

Which driver do you think will win? Leave us a comment.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Ford Escape 4X4, 6 cylinder. It seems to drag while driving (it doesn’t glide freely). What could be wrong?
Ray from Corfu, NY

Ray,
Check the rear emergency brake cables. One could be stuck from rust, causing the e-brake to stay applied. Also, check the rear brake calipers for rust on the slides. When rust forms, the caliper stays in the applied position after the brake is used. This condition creates a dragging sensation and causes the brakes to wear out prematurely. After 10-15 minutes of driving, place your hand close to each wheel. If you find one that’s hotter than the others, you have located the stuck brake. Pull the wheel and check the brake. Success to you.
Tom

Ron,
I know you don’t want to hear this but my suggestion is to have a competent shop do a diagnostic on your Cadillac to determine the cause of the drivability problem. Arbitrarily replacing parts simply does not fix cars. I have seen this scenario played out thousands of time over the years and the results are almost always the same, leaving the customer with more cost. Contact your local AAA to find a competent drivability diagnostician near you. Best to you.
Tom

David,
Yes, a power or ground wire could have been left loose. Also, a battery terminal connection could be loose causing an intermittent connection (that would explain the symptoms you described). Get the car back into the shop and have them recheck their work before something burns up from a voltage spike.
Tom

Ray,
In my opinion, the key to the automotive fountain of youth is to follow the severe service schedule for maintenance. If using Mobile One synthetic oil, change the oil and filter every six (6) months. As for Z-Max and other additives, if you follow the severe service schedule and use Mobil One, there is no need for these products.
Tom

Joe,
Sounds like you have a fun ride there, ’56 Chevy with big block power mmmmmmm… I doubt mixing the same type antifreeze from two different makers would result in what you describe. Perhaps a call to both antifreeze makers would reveal more info. In the meantime, I would run a strong flush chemical through the cooling system and fill it with a 50/50 mix of coolant and forget about it. Good luck.
Tom

Jerry,
This problem could be caused by a bad battery ground connection (at the engine block or frame), a dead spot in the starter (which might not show up all the time), or a bad ignition switch. In the case of a bad starter, after the starter spins over the engine, it lands in a dead spot in the armature windings. This results in a clicking sound. Try gently tapping the body of the starter with a hammer the next time it turns up dead. If the truck immediately starts after tapping the starter, you can safely assume the starter is bad. Sorry to say, but you might have to wait until the problem leaves you stranded. It’s very difficult to track down an intermittent electrical problem. I wish you success.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

View from turn two bleachers at Martinsville Speedway

Also new at Martinsville will be the reintroduction of spoilers. The wings are gone and spoilers are said to bring back more downforce and should help prevent car flipping aerials like we saw with Carl Edwards and Brad Keselowski in Atlanta (BTW – did you see how civil they were together running side by side each other late in the day at Bristol?).

Martinsville has a lot of history. Current Sprint Cup driver (#71 TRG Motorsports) Bobby Labonte made his Busch Series debut in 1982 at Martinsville Speedway, finishing 30th. In 1960, Richard Petty became the youngest winner at Martinsville at age 22 and has had the most wins there with 15. Also unique both in history and fame is that the trophy given at the race is a grandfather clock. The clocks are made by Ridgeway Clocks and have been given out since 1964 (Ridgeway clocks are also found in the historic Biltmore near Asheville, NC).

Ridgeway Trophy Clock

The NASCAR Sprint Cup Series returns to the Bristol Motor Speedway for car to car combat in the Food City 500 for the first short track race of the 2010 season on Sunday, March 21. Last year, Kyle Busch held off Joe Gibbs Racing teammate Denny Hamlin by .391 seconds in a green-white-checkered finish, taking the race to 503 laps. Known as the “The World’s Fastest Half-Mile”, this year the favorites are Kevin Harvick, Matt Kenseth, Greg Biffle, Jimmie Johnson, and Clint Bowyer. Drivers to watch are Paul Menard, Kurt Busch, Scott Speed, Kyle Busch, and Denny Hamlin. Never count out the veterans either. Bobby Labonte (#71) has an excellent record at the Bristol Motor Speedway where he’s scored an impressive three top five finishes and ten top ten finishes.

Carl Edwards Flips Brad Keselowski

Will the “The World’s Fastest Half Mile” turn into a Half Mile of Havoc? We’ll only know Sunday if the “Gladiators with Gears” Brad Keselowski and Carl Edwards feud has ended or if more cars will be flipped up and out of the race track. Space will be tight so Brad and Carl might not be the only ones bumping and rubbing fenders. The track has installed new SAFER barriers that make the track even tighter with more than 160 feet at the exits of Turns 2 and 4 combined. That will tighten up the available racing space used by the drivers.

Here a list of the top 35 Drivers in the series competing at Bristol:

• Kevin Harvick
• Matt Kenseth
• Greg Biffle
• Jimmie Johnson
• Clint Bowyer
• Jeff Burton
• Mark Martin
• Tony Stewart
• Paul Menard
• Kurt Busch
• Jeff Gordon
• Scott Speed
• Dale Earnhardt Jr.
• Joey Logano
• Kyle Busch
• Brian Vickers
• Kasey Kahne
• David Reutimann
• Jamie McMurray
• Carl Edwards
• Juan Montoya
• Denny Hamlin
• A.J. Allmendinger
• Martin Truex Jr.
• Elliott Sadler
• Regan Smith
• David Ragan
• Marcos Ambrose
• Ryan Newman
• Bobby Labonte
• Sam Hornish Jr.
• Travis Kvapil
• Brad Keselowski
• Mike Bliss
• Boris Said
• Robby Gordon
• David Gilliland
• Max Papis
• Bill Elliott
• Kevin Conway
• Michael McDowell
• Joe Nemechek
• Dave Blaney
• Michael Waltrip
• Robert Richardson Jr.
• Aric Almirola
• John Andretti
• Casey Mears
• Terry Cook
• Todd Bodine
• Johnny Sauter
• Derrike Cope
• Reed Sorenson
• Mike Wallace
• Norm Benning
• Jeff Fuller

Watch the race to see who wins.

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Dear Tom,
I was told that there is no advantage to using synthetic engine oil over conventional oil. I do not believe this is true. Also, I was told that conventional oil used with a stabilizer would accomplish the same thing as synthetic oil. Is this true? Thanks.
Nick from Bemus Pt, NY

Nick,
Whoever told you that synthetic motor oil has no advantages compared to conventional oil doesn’t know what he is talking about. Synthetic oil is more resistant to viscosity breakdown (loss of ability to flow and thus lubricate) from heat, friction, and chemical contamination (the hostile environment of an operating internal combustion engine). Synthetic oil was originally developed for use in aircraft to address the extreme operating environment of the jet engines. On the intake side, aircraft jet engines operate at very cold temperatures because of the rush of air, ambient temperatures, and venturi effect. On the exhaust side, the aircraft jet engine is very hot. Conventional oils simply did not stand up well under these conditions, so engineers designed a syntheticly fortified lubricating oil to avoid the problems associated with conventional petroleum lubricants. The new formula worked well, so AMSOIL founder and president Al Amatuzio (at the time, a jet fighter pilot in our armed forces) set out to develop synthetic motor oil suitable for automotive applications. The first synthetic engine oil for cars entered the market in 1972. Today’s synthetic oils flow better than petroleum oil in cold temperatures, providing internal protection during winter start up. Obviously, the quality of synthetic oil varies. In my opinion, based on the research I have seen, AMSOIL and Mobile One are number one and number two respectively. Finally, adding a stabilizer to conventional oil does not provide the same advantages as synthetic oils.
Tom

Steve,
The wiper arm has to be replaced. The tension spring (located inside the arm) keeps the wiper blade snug against the windshield glass. When the spring wears out, the wiper arm lifts off the glass. Replace the arm and problem solved!
Tom

Ed,
Small convex mirrors are a good addition to the driver’s side to eliminate blind spots. The passenger’s side mirror is already of the convex design, that’s why it says “Objects May Be Closer Than They Appear.” As for why carmakers don’t add convex mirrors on the driver’s side? Bottom line, cost. End of story.
Tom

Lois,
I checked my database for brake recalls on these vehicles and came up with nothing. Call your local dealer and give them your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to run in their database to make sure there’s no action from Chrysler on this condition. If not, perhaps you ran the brake shoes too long on the car, resulting in failure? Or, if they were replaced at one time or another, perhaps the shop used inferior shoes, causing the glue to crystallize that could result in shoe failure. It’s impossible to tell without seeing the old parts and the service history of the vehicle. Good luck.
Tom

Lloyd,
Check for a dislodged vacuum line, crossed wire, or an inadvertently grounded sparkplug electrode either from dirt in the air gap or from the electrode crushed down to the ground position. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of these areas. Best to you.
Tom

Sheila,
First, check the coolant level. It sounds like the coolant is low and an air bubble is circulating through the system. If it is low, then check for a coolant leak. If the level is good, then there could be a vacuum leak causing the air blend door to open and close on engine demand. Check the vacuum lines that feed the heater system. There’s a vacuum chamber in the engine compartment that stores vacuum for the heater system to draw on when needed. That chamber is usually made of plastic and it can crack, resulting in erratic heater blend door operation. I’m sure you’ll find your problem in one of there areas. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Take advantage of our Daylight Savings Sales Promotion to save on your vehicle service contract (extended auto warranty).

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It’s certainly not new that Toyota is having problems with their vehicles. Week after week the mainstream media seems to come out with a new “update,” much of it simply quoting old news. Let’s take a look at the facts regarding the Toyota recalls and useful information for owners of these vehicles.

The first set of recalls started with what is termed the Floor Mat Recall. In this recall Toyota determined that the gas pedals in some of their vehicles were getting hung up with the floor mats on the front driver’s side, causing unintended acceleration. The next recall was the Gas Pedal Recall. After depressing the gas pedal in some vehicles, it did not completely return to its original position. Next came the Prius/HS250h hybrid ABS Braking Recall, prompted by owners who complained that their ABS brakes felt like they weren’t working adequately. And finally, there is a minor recall of some Tacoma pickups for faulty front driveshafts on 4WD vehicles. There is also an investigation being launched into Corollas for malfunctioning power steering, but there is no recall to date.

Floor Mat Recall

Vehicles involved in the floor mat recall include (info from Toyota’s website):

• 2005-2010 Avalon
• 2007-2010 Camry
• 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2008-2010 Highlander
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2004-2009 Prius
• 2005-2010 Tacoma
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2009-2010 VENZA
• 2009-2010 Pontiac Vibe

Owners of vehicles covered by the floor mat recall should take out any removable driver’s floor mat and not replace it with any other floor mat until they receive the vehicle-based remedy.

After you receive a notification from Toyota that the recall remedy for your vehicle is available, you should take your vehicle to an authorized Toyota dealer. Dealer personnel have been specially trained to implement the following vehicle-based remedy:
Toyota service techs will either modify or replace the accelerator pedals on the subject vehicles to address the risk of floor mat entrapment, even when an older-design all weather floor mat or other inappropriate mat is improperly attached, or is placed on top of another floor mat. Floor surface modifications are also being considered and will be included in the remedy plan for any model for which it is deemed appropriate. For the Camry and Avalon models involved, the shape of the floor surface underneath will also be reconfigured to increase the space between the accelerator pedal and the floor.

Gas Pedal Recall

Toyota discovered that there was a problem with excessive friction buildup on the bottom of the gas pedal of certain vehicles. This condition can cause the gas pedal to stick and, in some instances, not return completely to the original position after being depressed. This recall is in full swing.

Toyota’s accelerator pedal recall is confined to the following Toyota Division vehicles (info from Toyota’s website):

• Certain 2009-2010 RAV4
• Certain 2009-2010 Corolla
• 2009-2010 Matrix
• 2005-2010 Avalon
• Certain 2007-2010 Camry
• Certain 2010 Highlander
• 2007-2010 Tundra
• 2008-2010 Sequoia

No Lexus Division or Scion vehicles are affected by this recall action. Also not affected are Toyota Prius, Tacoma, Sienna, Venza, Solara, Yaris, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser and Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids. Highlander hybrids and Camry hybrids are not involved in this action. Further, Camry, RAV4, Corolla and Highlander vehicles with VINs that begin with “J” are not involved.

If you have noticed that your accelerator pedal is hard to depress, slow to return, or is not smooth during operation, the vehicle should be stopped at the nearest safe location, the engine shut off and a Toyota dealer contacted for assistance.

What if you experience a sticking accelerator pedal while driving?

Each circumstance may vary, and drivers must use their best judgment, but Toyota recommends taking one of the following actions:

If you need to stop immediately, the vehicle can be controlled by stepping on the brake pedal with both feet using firm and steady pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal as it will deplete the vacuum utilized for the power brake assist. Shift the transmission gear selector to the Neutral (N) position and use the brakes to make a controlled stop at the side of the road and turn off the engine. If unable to put the vehicle in Neutral, turn the engine OFF. This will not cause loss of steering or braking control, but the power assist to these systems will be lost. If the vehicle is equipped with an Engine Start/Stop button, firmly and steadily push the button for at least three seconds to turn off the engine. Do NOT tap the Engine Start/Stop button. If the vehicle is equipped with a conventional key ignition, turn the ignition key to the ACC position to turn off the engine. Do NOT remove the key from the ignition as this will lock the steering wheel.

Prius/HS250h ABS Brake Recall

(as it appears on Toyota’s website)

Toyota Announces Voluntary Recall on 2010 Model-Year Prius and 2010 Lexus HS 250h Vehicles to Update ABS Software

TORRANCE, Calif., February 8, 2010 – Toyota Motor Sales (TMS), U.S.A., Inc, today announced it will conduct a voluntary safety recall on approximately 133,000 2010 Model Year Prius vehicles and 14,500 Lexus Division 2010 HS 250h vehicles to update software in the vehicle’s anti-lock brake system (ABS). No other Toyota, Lexus, or Scion vehicles are involved in this recall.

The ABS, in normal operation, engages and disengages rapidly (many times per second) as the control system senses and reacts to tire slippage. Some 2010 model year Prius and 2010 HS 250h owners have reported experiencing inconsistent brake feel during slow and steady application of brakes on rough or slick road surfaces when the ABS is activated in an effort to maintain tire traction.

Toyota has responded to owner concerns with a running production change for 2010 Prius that was introduced last month, improving the ABS system’s response time, as well as the system’s overall sensitivity to tire slippage. The production change for the HS 250h is planned for later this month.

The recall will allow Toyota dealers to perform the software update on 2010 Prius vehicles sold prior to this running production change. Only Prius vehicles produced since May 2009 and all HS 250h vehicles are subject to this recall. First- and second-generation Prius vehicles use a different ABS system and are not involved in this campaign. The ABS system on the Lexus HS 250h is similar in design to the Prius. The software adjustment planned for HS 250h production and dealer modification is being finalized and will be announced very soon. Toyota will begin mailing letters to Prius owners included in this recall next week and HS 250h owners within the next few weeks, to let them know when to bring their vehicles into a dealership. Owners will only receive a letter if their vehicle is involved in the recall.

Are Toyota and Lexus bad cars?

I say a hearty NO! The Toyota Motor Company’s reputation is built on a foundation of quality and safety. I believe it is still the basis of the company today and Toyota is moving swiftly to address these issues. The bottom line? It is still a fine car in spite of the recent problems. Toyota will make good on the faulty cars and will rebound as a safety and quality leader again in an effort to regain market dominance. Quite frankly, I think now is a great time to buy a Toyota. Last week, according to Kelly Blue Book, Toyota pricing had dropped an average of 4% across the board. This means a savings of $350 to $700, in addition to the 0% financing (which you never saw until now for a Toyota product). And look for other incentives in the near future to entice buyers back into the showrooms. As I see it, there will be some pretty good deals out there for some fine automobiles.

Well, that’s pretty much the skinny on the Toyota recalls. Call your local Toyota dealer with your VIN number so they can input it into Toyota’s database to see if your vehicle is involved in any of these actions. Or you can go online to: Pressroom.Toyota.com and you will find updates as they come hot off the press. Hope this helps clear things up a bit.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I purchased a used 2007 Dodge Caravan SXT – V6 with 21,000 miles. It gets 19 MPG in the city and only 20 MPG in the country. What can I do to get better mileage? I follow your advice for maintenance and welcome your advice. Thanks.
Ruth from Hamburg, NY

Ruth,
Fuel mileage is subjective to the driving environment, how the vehicle is driven, how it is maintained, and what kind of work it performs. First, make sure the performance system is up to snuff (sparkplugs & wires, air and fuel filter, breather element, and anything else related to the performance system). If these items are not replaced at the proper intervals, fuel mileage will suffer. Based on the low mileage of this vehicle, the plugs could be “carboned up” from lack of use. Have them cleaned and re-gapped. What else can you do to increase gas mileage? Inflate the tires to max inflation rate so they offer less rolling resistance; replace the air filter with a high flow filter like a K&N; and replace the engine oil, transmission fluid, and differential lubricants with synthetic lubricants. All this coupled with maintaining the performance system should net you a few more miles per gallon. Best to you.
Tom

Lee,
If what you outlined here is accurate, then I agree with you. It is entirely too much oil consumption for this engine. Excessive oil consumption is the result of poor piston ring sealing, bad valve guide seals, or sloppy valve guides. If the PCV system were clogged with sludge, then the crankcase would be pressurized. In this case, the oil would be pushed up into the breather system and into the air intake to be burned. Call John Domagala at the NFADA (Niagara Frontier Dealer’s Assoc). He is the director of AUTOCAP (Automotive Consumer Action Program) and John will get the Chrysler Zone Rep involved. Hopefully you will get some satisfaction. John’s number is 716-631-8510. Tell him I told you to call. Success to you.
Tom

Amy,
Let’s deal with one thing at a time. (1) The sloppy ignition key issue is probably due to a worn lock cylinder in the steering column. This requires replacement of the lock/key (removal of the steering wheel and air bag are part of this procedure to access the necessary parts). (2) The wipers have to be checked for a bad internal motor ground or (if so equipped) the wiper delay could be bad (3) The whirring sound by the belt could be a bad serpentine idler, an alternator or power steering pulley, or worn bearings in the water pump shaft. Get it into a shop that can address your concerns … one at a time. Good luck.
Tom

Lillie,
You give me no year, make, or model so my answer will be in general. The first thing that comes to mind is the thermostat. When it goes bad it can either stick closed (causing overheating) or open. If stuck open, the engine doesn’t get hot and thus the heater doesn’t get warm. Also, heater malfunction can also be caused by a problem with a duct door (these doors direct the heated air into the vehicle’s cabin). Finally, in the case of climate-controlled systems, a faulty electronic control module can cause heater malfunction. Hope this helps.
Tom

Randy,
Check the inner axle shaft CV joints. Heavy vibration occurs when they get worn and loose, especially under acceleration. Other common causes of front-end vibration include: loose/worn struts and/or strut bearing plates, loose ball joints, tie rod ends, rack mounts, or internally worn rack. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘88 Mazda RX7 rotary car. I stabilized the gas and backed it into a dry cold garage for storage over the winter. Will this be okay, or should I start the car once in a while?
Mike from Buffalo

Mike,
I like to start a vehicle that’s sitting over the winter at least twice a month and drive it at least once a month, if possible. Why? To keep seals and mating surfaces lubricated. If left too long without running, seals dry up and mating surfaces (when started dry in an engine that’s lost its oil prime) suffer premature wear. In addition, engines, transmissions, and drivetrain components operate better when not deprived of the precious lube they’ve come to rely upon for proper operation. Start two times each month, warm to operating temperatures, and drive when possible. This regimen will ensure that your Mazda keeps going HUMMMMMMMMMMM!
Tom

Bob,
I checked my ALLDATA database for anything pertaining to a no-start condition with this truck and found nothing. An engine needs three things to start: fuel, ignition, and air. Start with an ignition system check: coils, sparkplugs, and wires. If nothing is evident in the visual inspection, then do a computer scan in order to see if there are any codes in the memory. If the system is clean of codes, then the next step is a fuel system check. Hook a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail in the injection system. If fuel pressure is low then the fuel pump could be bad or you could have a plugged fuel filter. If the fuel system is found to be in good working order, then further engine diagnostics are in order to find out if it has proper compression and that the valve timing is in order. You should find the cause of your no-start condition in one of these areas. Good luck.
Tom

Tom,
No poltergeist here. You probably have a bad starter motor. When the armature shaft bushings wear out inside the starter, the armature is allowed to drag on the field windings. This condition eventually causes an electrical dead spot (or zone) to develop in the starter. Sometimes the armature lands on this dead zone after starting the engine, resulting in a no-start condition when you turn the key. Then like magic, after turning the key several times, the armature gets slightly bumped by the solenoid cycling and, like magic, the starter works. Have the starter removed and bench tested. Best to you.
Tom

Bunny,
You did not give me year, make, or model vehicle so my answer will be in general. No, shifting from drive to neutral will not do any internal damage to an automatic transmission. The only thing I can think of that could be affected would be premature shift cable or linkage failure from constant shifting. Otherwise your friend may shift away to his heart’s content!
Tom

Pooh,
Check the transmission fluid level. If it’s low, fill it to the fill line and drive it. If the problem is solved, then low fluid was the cause and you have to find the leak and fix it. If it still slips after filling the fluid, then there’s a problem inside the transmission. Perhaps the low fluid level caused internal damage to the bands or clutches. Also, check the fluid color; It should be red and clean. If it’s dark brown or black the unit has been overheated and might need rebuilding. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com