• One in four could not pay for a car repair of $2,000
• One in eight could not even pay for a $1,000 car repair bill
• One fourth of drivers are neglecting car repairs and maintenance largely due to the economy – which could put them at risk for unexpected car repair costs.

If a $2,000 car repair came up for you, how would you pay for it? The survey found:

• 38 percent would pay with funds from a savings account
• 20 percent would pay with their credit cards
• 11 percent would have to borrow from friends, family, retirement or home equity

None of these is a good situation, right? A much better solution is a vehicle service contract from WarrantyDirect.com that can cost just a few dollars a day and protect you from a wide range of expensive auto repairs.

The AAA survey found that repair bills of $1,000, $2,000 or more can quickly arise – especially with older vehicles that have not been properly maintained. For example:

• A transmission repair can cost $2,000 to $4,000
• A major engine repair can exceed $5,000
• Even major brake repairs can range from $350 to $1,000 or more

Project yourself and your family. Call Warranty Direct today to talk about affordable coverage options for your car at 877-867-3565.

Warranty Direct has been in business for 35 years, has an A+ rating with the BBB, handles their own claims, and is licensed in all 50 states. Call 877-867-3565 or visit www.warrantydirect.com now.

Fall and winter months are the harshest months for vehicles, especially those which are hard to maintain. Why wait for a breakdown or a dead battery when the weather is miserable outside? Fix your car while the sun is shining and autumn leaves are falling, then be ready to face winter’s blasts with confidence.

One little-known protection against the cold is weatherstripping the windows, doors, windshield, trunk and other parts of your auto, much as you would your home. You are not only making your car more air and watertight, but also protecting its value and longevity. Custom weatherstripping is available from many leading auto dealers as well as auto parts supply stores like NAPA Auto Parts.

Another way to prepare your auto for those extra hours of darkness in winter is by making sure that all your lights are working and are properly aimed. Of course after long years of using your car’s original lights, you may need to replace them for safe illumination at night or restore them with a 3M Headlight Restoration Kit. However  if you do need to replace them, be sure to install high quality and durable auto lights that will last a long time. Fog lights are very important during fall and winter seasons because they provide low-to-the-road illumination that helps you pass through thick fog, snow and rain. They are specially designed to keep you safe while driving through the worst weather conditions and mountainous roads.

Be sure your car or truck tires are properly inflated to avoid misfortunes on the road. Likewise, check on the car’s air conditioning, heat, exhaust, cooling, starting and electrical systems, not only for comfortable temperatures but also for efficient defrosting and defogging of windows. Get a Free Fall Check from Meineke to make sure your car is running in top condition.

Your car is really like an extension of yourself, so take care of it. No matter how tough its original parts are, you can’t expect them to work perfectly right in the worst weather of the year if you don’t maintain them properly. Treat your car with tender love and care now before cold weather starts playing tricks on you.

• Oil and Filter – Check the oil level at every fill-up, and change it, along with the oil filter, as specified in your owner’s manual.
• Battery – Battery efficiency drops off drastically in cold weather and there are rarely any signs before failure occurs. Today’s batteries are tougher than those of the past, but many service stations will check your battery free of charge to be sure it’s ready for freezing temps.
• Brakes – These are a normal wear item for any vehicle, so plan ahead and anticipate a replacement before they become an expensive problem. Have the system checked by a qualified technician immediately if you notice dragging, squealing or grinding noises, or a pulling or a pulsating brake pedal.
• Wipers – Wipers take a beating when there’s ice on the windshield, so check wiper blades for cracks and wear, and replace them immediately if streaking, skipping or smearing occurs.
• Belts and Hoses – Check and replace belts that appear to be frayed, glazed or cracked, and hoses that are leaking, brittle, rusted, swollen or restricted. If you suspect that the main belt is loose and you can reach it under the hood, press down on it with your thumb; if it gives more than half an inch, it needs to be tightened.
• Fluid Levels – Check all fluids regularly, including brake, power steering, transmission and antifreeze fluids. They all help neutralize internal corrosion, remove debris that may have accumulated and keep the vehicle’s temperature within normal range.

Project yourself and your family. Call Warranty Direct today to talk about affordable coverage options for your car at 877-867-3565.

Warranty Direct has been in business for 35 years, has an A+ rating with the Better Business Bureau, handles their own claims, and is licensed in all 50 states. Call 877-867-3565 or visit www.warrantydirect.com now.

1. Get more than one estimate. Unless you have a mechanic that you work with and trust, consider getting several estimates for the job. If your car is in an collision accident, more than likely your insurance company will ask you to get three estimates. If you are paying for car repairs out of pocket you should definitely do the same. A lot of times different mechanics will charge different prices even for the same problem. They might have different rates, feel that they need to repair things that are potentially going to break, or some mechanics are dishonest and will charge you for services that do not need to be performed.

2. Check the BBB – If you are unfamiliar with a repair shop check with the Better Business Bureau before taking your car to a shop and find out whether they’re reputable.

3. Make sure you get a itemized estimate and not just one price for the whole job. – If all of the services are not listed in the estimate, then the mechanic could deny that you ever talked about them. Make sure that they are listed very clearly in the estimate in as much detail as possible.  For instance, if a part has to be new and not refurbished, then this should be indicated. As well when you are comparing estimates you will have more leverage to negotiate if one mechanic is charging a lot less for one service than the other.

4. Make sure the price is very clearly listed – The price should be very clear. Shops will charge for parts and labor so make sure that the estimate is be broken down and any dispoal fees are included so that when the final bill comes there are no surprises.  That way if there is a problem with something, then you will know the exact portion that it is.  The estimate should also state what will be done in the case that the price might be higher.  Make sure that if something comes up during the repair that the mechanic has to call you before making non-estimated repairs.

5. Make sure you read everything and ask questions if it seems unclear – There may be small print on the estimate, but it is still important to read everything, especially before you sign anything. You never know what someone might try to put in there such as an extra fee.

6. Get a copy of the estimate – Most mechanics will give you a copy of the estimate and keep one for themselves.  Make sure that you get your copy.  You do not want to come back only to suspect that the estimate has been altered.

7. See if anything is covered by your warranty – If you are still under your car’s manufacturer auto warranty, find out if anything is covered and if the shop is authorized to do warranty repairs. If you have an extended service plan have the shop call to authorize the repairs with your administrator and then obtain a new estimate with the covered repairs included.

Have you ever gone to a quick lube place for an oil change and, while you’re waiting in the lobby for your car, the service bay/sales person informs you that a certain service(s) must be performed on the vehicle immediately to avert a disaster of immense proportion? Many of us can relate to this scenario. The “recommended service” they advise usually includes one or more of the following:

• High mileage oil

• Fuel system cleaning

• Brake fluid flush

• Transmission flush

• Transfer case or differential fluid change

Usually their advice takes the form of an urgent plea, concerned that something dire will happen if you don’t have the service done. What do you do? How do you handle this situation? Knowledge is power; power gives confidence to make the right decisions. So let’s look at each service, the validity of the claim, and whether or not you should follow the advice.

Does Your Vehicle Need High Mileage Oil?

High mileage oils supposedly are formulated with more robust additive packages for better lubrication and rust inhibition, along with a nourishing agent to bring old, hardened oil seals back to life. Well, if that’s true, why didn’t the company initially give me their best formulation so that my car would get more mileage out of the engine in the first place?! Ha! Not being an expert in lubrication and petroleum products, I consulted an expert in the industry to gather more information. Dan Watson, a Certified Lubrication Specialist (STLE) and publisher of www.lubedepot.com and www.maxtorque.com (an E-Zine about diesel power) sent me some bullet points to consider when offered “high mileage oil.”

• High mileage oils are fortified with additional additives for improving the ability of the oil to deal with byproducts of combustion and enhance engine cleanliness.

• Why not make all oils with robust additive packages? (My point exactly) Engines would stay cleaner and be better protected with the stronger additive package from the start.

• The age of the engine has nothing to do with the protection needed to maintain the engine and prevent wear.

• The best procedure is to start out with oil that doesn’t break down and leave sludge and varnish in the engine.

• Start the engine out using high quality synthetic engine oil and you will have superior protection and cleanliness from the start. You will never need a “better oil” when you get to a higher mileage.

• It is important to note all synthetic oils are not the same and some synthetics use virtually the same additive package as the low quality petroleum oils.

• Look for synthetic oils like AMSOIL or Mobil One; these oils have extremely robust additive packages designed for longer drain intervals. This insures you are getting highly additive-ized oil that provides maximum protection and superior cleanliness regardless of vehicle mileage.

Excellent points. Feel free to send Dan your oil and lubrication questions at danwatson@thelubepage.com.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Fuel System Cleaning?

It may come as a surprise to you, but fuel system cleaning isn’t addressed directly in maintenance schedules. I checked six specific year, make, and model vehicles in the ALLDATA database and I came up with only one reference regarding fuel delivery system inspection; and two others, one referencing fuel filter replacement and one referencing fuel line inspection. So this is a gray area. I can tell you that fuel flow creates varnish deposits and that inefficient combustion from worn sparkplugs and wires causes carbon buildup within the engine. Over time, the injectors get clogged with varnish deposits or dirt that’s picked up in the fuel. When this happens, the injectors dribble fuel into the combustion chamber rather than deliver a fine mist of air/fuel mixture for perfect combustion. I can also tell you that chemical companies that develop fuel system cleaning chemicals recommend a complete fuel system cleaning every 30K – 40K miles. Finally, as an automotive machinist, I have seen many cylinder heads and pistons loaded with carbon buildup from inefficient combustion that resulted in lean burn conditions, and thus inefficient and/or damaged engines. All this I know to be true. In addition, I can tell you that fuel additives to the fuel tank alone cannot keep a fuel system clean. During the fuel delivery system cleaning process, industrial strength carbon and varnish cleaners are injected directly into the fuel delivery system while the engine is running. The problem I have with following the recommendation to have this service done at a quick lube is that they “recommend” the service almost every time you stop in for an oil change. Also, I question the quality of the fuel system service they offer. In order for this service to work effectively, they must use a special machine and a specific set of tools, as well as an industrial grade carbon and varnish cleaner. Such equipment, found in high quality repair facilities or dealerships, are often not available at quick lubes. Don’t get me wrong; quick lubes have their place in automotive service. However, I think they are out of their league in this area of service.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Brake Fluid Flush?

Brake fluid flushing is a viable service that should be done if there is rust and sediment in the brake master cylinder. After researching several year, make, and model vehicles in the ALLDATA database, I realized that this is not a recommended service from the manufacturer. At best, carmakers suggest an inspection of the braking system at regular intervals (every 6K miles or so) that includes inspection of the brake fluid along with the rest of the system. The hydraulic braking system is designed as a closed and sealed system. When it is exposed to the atmosphere because of a broken seal or hydraulic cup, the system will draw moisture into itself because of the hydroscopic (moisture absorbing) nature of the brake fluid. So a simple inspection of the brake fluid is all that is required. When checking brake fluid, look for proper level, color, and smell. Brake fluid that is clear/translucent in color, at the proper level, with no evidence of a burnt smell, indicates a healthy braking system. If the color is black or rust-colored, there is a problem. Simple flushing will not repair the root cause of the condition. A dark or black color accompanied by a burnt smell is indication that the system has overheated. There are three causes of overheating: A stuck brake caliper, a seized emergency brake, or a contaminated wheel cylinder that causes a brake shoe to stick in the applied position. A rust-colored fluid indicates that moisture has entered the system, and therefore the system should be checked for a leaking component, a compromised line, or a torn master cylinder gasket. Brake fluid flushing alone without an inspection and/or repair of the root cause of the discolored fluid is not a repair. It is like a band-aid on a compound fracture. I do not recommend regular brake fluid flushing. It is simply not necessary unless a problem with color, level, or smell of the brake fluid is observed.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Transmission Fluid Flush?

As a regular maintenance practice (every 35 – 40K miles) transmission flushing can ensure proper operation and longevity of the transmission. Any more that 35 – 40K miles is overkill. Some carmakers suggest this service every 100K miles or more. However I don’t agree with this timeframe because transmission fluid is oil, and oil breaks down over time (especially when the unit is worked hard). In addition, I don’t agree with just flushing the fluid without replacing the transmission filter. During the flush procedure, if the old filter is left in place, dirt and wear material will be dislodged and go back into the transmission. Dirt is flowing through the unit and contaminating it again. In addition, a worn, dirty filter is expected to do the job it once did when it was new! So when flushing transmission fluid, always replace the filter. Period. On transmissions with high mileage that have a history of being neglected (have not been serviced for many thousands of miles and the fluid is dark and smells burnt, which is evidence of overheating) I do not recommend a transmission flush. On a transmission that has been overheated, internal damage might have occurred. If this is the case, when the transmission is subjected to a complete bath of fresh high-detergency transmission fluid, the transmission will fail internally. Specifically, clutches separate from their backings, rendering the unit useless. If you have a high mileage vehicle and the quick lube shop has recommended a fluid flush, get a second opinion from a drivetrain expert before proceeding… or pay the consequences.

Does Your Vehicle Need a Transfer Case or Differential Fluid Change?

Transfer cases are very quirky units. When the fluid is compromised in any way from overheating or moisture contamination they can malfunction. Symptoms of a malfunction include chatter, engaging and disengaging rapidly while in gear, slow to engage from low to high range, and a host of other strange maladies. I have actually seen TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) where carmakers consult with petroleum companies to come up with a fix for a transfer case problem by virtue of a fluid reformulation. Also, different carmakers use different fluids for their respective transfer cases. Each fluid is uniquely formulated for the respective transfer case application. This is an area of service that I would never leave to a quick lube, but rather to a drivetrain specialist or a dealership. There is simply too much room for error when it comes to filling the unit with the wrong fluid. Differentials also vary in the types of fluids they use. Leave fluid maintenance of these units to the experts!

I hope this clarifies any concerns or questions you might have before heading out to your local quick lube. Remember, knowledge is empowering, and in this case, can save you a lot of time and money (and that’s probably why you are going to the quick lube in the first place).

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I’d like to “swap-out” the Halogen headlights on my 2008 Chrysler T & C for a HID kit. The HID kits come in different brightness values. Are these kits legal for use in New York State? Also, do ceramic disc brake pads make the brake rotors wear out faster than semi-metallic brake pads?
Rick from Sarasota, FL

Rick,
The best place to ask what headlight intensities are legal in NYS is the NYS Dept of Motor Vehicles. I am not sure what the law states; they will know. As for ceramic brake pads, they dissipate heat better, wear less, create no brake dust, are quieter, and are less taxing on rotors than semi-metallic brake pads. In short, a far superior braking product compared to semi-metallics. Buy them and enjoy them. Just make sure you resurface the rotors before installing the new pads. Success to you.
Tom

Jane,
Have the engine scanned for codes. It sounds like the vehicle could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor dumping raw fuel into the engine, a faulty injector driver, or a bad PCM (Power Control Module). Please don’t start replacing parts. Have the proper diagnostics performed to identify the problem and then proceed with the repairs. Otherwise, you could waste a lot of time and money. Success to you.
Tom

Barbara,
I would go through my maintenance records to see what exactly has been done in recent months to determine what could have happened. It’s possible that the engine suffered from oil gelling that caused lubrication starvation. Toyota extended engine warranties on their engines for this problem a few years back. Ask your dealer about this possibility. Also, it sounds to me like the vehicle might have had a bad water pump and all the coolant leaked out, which caused the engine to overheat followed by a blown head gasket. This, in turn, caused engine coolant to mix with the engine oil, causing the bearings to fail and thus catastrophic failure of the engine. Good luck to you.
Tom

Gary,
The circuits that feed or operate the cluster will need to be tested. Sometimes there is a bad power or ground connection at the plug, or a faulty circuit board. If these connections and circuits test okay, then the problem is in the printed circuit of the cluster. This will require either replacement or repair of the cluster. There is a company online called www.mrwhizard.com. This company specializes in repairing digital instrument clusters. You simply send them your old cluster and they either repair it or sent you a newly rebuilt one. It’s a great service and much less cost than a new cluster. Good luck!
Tom

Dustin,
I checked my ALLDATA database and there’s a TSB regarding this condition, Apparently there’s a software update from GM. Take it to your dealer for this update; it should solve your problem. In addition, I suggest having the ABS computer scanned for codes, and check the wheel speed sensors, electrical plugs, and wiring harness for cracked or broken insulation. All these faults could cause these symptoms. The TSB number from GM is Bulletin #: 09-05-25-001.
Tom

Ellie,
First, run an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge and verify that the oil pressure is really low. If the oil pressure is up to specs, then identify which valve tappet is making noise and open up the valve cover/s to have a look at the valvetrain. This process will allow the tech to get a better grip on what’s happening with the valvetrain and what it will cost to fix. I wish you success.
Tom

Craig,
Seal replacement could stop the leaks. However, if the crank journals are worn then the leak will continue. With this kind of mileage, I think you’re looking at a power plant replacement. Have the crank journals, and rod & main bearings inspected along with the oil pump before proceeding with seal replacement (which would require removing the engine). It may be wise at this stage to replace the engine with a rebuilt unit. I recommend the Jasper replacement engines because they come with the best warranties and are high quality remanufactured units.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Over the years trends develop in the auto industry by virtue of a phenomenon I call “media chatter.” Several press releases start to percolate to the surface from unrelated outlets in the media. For example, when Chrysler Corp was on the verge of bankruptcy the first time, chatter of an anticipated Daimler takeover (“merger?”) started bubbling up to the surface. Within just a few months it was announced that “A Merger of Giants” (Daimler Benz and Chrysler Corp) was about to take place. Later, it ended bitterly when the stock plummeted to historic lows ($25-$28 a share) and Daimler Executive Jurgeon Schremp was ousted. There were rumors that he had leaked information regarding the “merger,” and that it was never intended to be a merger but rather a takeover. It appears he was a few steps ahead of everyone else during negotiations, intending to acquire (rather than merge) with Chrysler. The point? Media chatter forecasted the “merger” long before it happened.

Lately the media chatter is singing a new tune about the electrification of the auto industry. For this reason, I believe we are on the cusp of widespread vehicular electrification. For the record, in previous articles I have stated that four things have to happen before widespread electrification of the auto industry could take place.

• Consumer acceptance of electric vehicles
• Improvement of battery technology
• Accessibility to the charging infrastructure
• Support from the carmakers

Consumer acceptance of electric vehicles

This is a tough one given the existing hurdles of restricted distance due to limited battery technology and the lack of a charging infrastructure. However, the Chevy Volt is off to a good start. The combination of a small gas-powered generator to power and recharge the batteries is a green light for a long-range electric vehicle that provides the confidence to venture out. I believe this solution will generate wide demographic acceptance of electric vehicles, including baby boomers (who are somewhat skeptical about electrics), as well as Gen-Xers & Yers (who tend to be risk takers). The bottom line? People won’t drive electric vehicles unless they feel secure, knowing they won’t get stranded with a dead battery. Look for a nationwide educational campaign about the benefits of electric vehicles to begin this year.

Improvement of battery technology

This is still a distance off. Present battery technology simply does not offer enough freedom to consumers, enabling them to travel the distance guaranteed with a tank of gas or diesel fuel. Battery technology coupled with electric motor/drivetrain technologies must offer a distance of at least 200 – 300 miles on a single charge in all weather and roadway conditions before consumers accept electric vehicles on a widespread basis. Tesla seems to have breached this baseline. Tesla is the first production electric vehicle offered that travels more than 200 miles on a single charge. However, the obvious question arises, under what weather and roadway conditions were the Tesla roadsters able to log this kind of mileage under a single charge? The world distance record of 311 miles for a production electric car on a single charge was set by a Tesla roadster on October 27, 2009, during the Global Green Challenge. It took place in the Outback of Australia at an average speed of 25MPH. Now please understand that in the Outback of Australia during October it is summer weather. That said, 311 miles on a single charge is still not a bad number given the cushy circumstances under which it was logged. According to the EPA, the Tesla roadster can travel 244 miles on a single charge of its lithium-ion battery pack, and can accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in 3.7 seconds (I can’t find the data defining the conditions under which these stats were logged). The roadster’s efficiency, as of September 2008, was reported as 120 MPG. So it seems that Tesla has definately started to break ground in the battery technology arena. Now the carmakers need to translate Tesla’s success to a full sized family sedan or SUV. There is the ticket to success in electric vehicles!

Accessibility to the charging infrastructure

A charging infrastructure has to be built before there is widespread acceptance of electric cars. With access to charging stations, consumers will no longer be anxious about the range of travel. Years ago, when the car industry was getting started, GM realized that in order for cars to become a working member of the family, a highway system had to be built to support travel. Hence GM supported the building of America’s Super Highway System, which stemmed the birth of suburbia, which in turn fueled the need for cars. The same logic applies to electrification of the car industry. Recent press releases indicate that some of the US & Japan’s automakers are working with power companies to develop a widespread charging station infrastructure that would first cover metropolitan areas, then spread across the country.

Support from the carmakers

As of the writing of this article, Ford, Mercedes, Toyota, and Chevrolet have all announced aggressive plans to bolster electric vehicle production. I expect more onboard this year.

In summary, sitting in the catbird seat of the automotive media, I have the opportunity to observe trends develop early on. The phenomenon I call “media chatter” begins long before a thing comes to the light of day. And the “media chatter” regarding electric vehicles is growing. In January these headlines all appeared within a week of each other:

• No Small Promise: Ford Delivers on Commitment With 10 New Small Cars and Electrification Plans DETROIT, Jan. 10, 2011 /PRNewswire

• IBM Study: Electric Cars Stir Interest But Face Obstacles Nearly one-fifth of drivers are likely to consider an electric vehicle Drivers reluctant to bear the cost of home charging ARMONK, N.Y., Jan. 11, 2011 /PRNewswire

• Johnson Controls Breaks Ground on Fully-Integrated Battery Recycling Facility FLORENCE, S.C., Jan. 18, 2011 /PRNewswire

• Detroit First Responders Get Electric Vehicle Safety Training. Chevrolet, OnStar and National Firefighters Prevention Association Host Sessions DETROIT, Jan. 19, 2011 /PRNewswire/

• Germany “shifting” to electrically powered cars. 11th International Advanced Automotive Battery Conference BERLIN and PASADENA, California, January 21, 2011/PRNewswire/

So I ask you faithful readers… will we be driving electric cars soon? In my humble opinion, I think so. ZZZZZZZAAAAPPPPPPP!

‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
My 2004 Olds Bravada smells hot… really hot. I keep putting in more antifreeze and it seems to disappear (I don’t see any wet spots under the vehicle). The over flow keeps emptying, as well as the radiator. Please help!
Janet from Reno, NV

Janet,
Coolant is going somewhere, probably out the tailpipe. Check to see if the vehicle is emitting white steam out the tailpipe (it probably is). If so, then the head gasket has blown or a cylinder head has cracked or warped as a result of overheating the engine. Have the engine checked for a blown head gasket. Good luck.
Tom

Josh,
Quite often moisture and dirt get into the hub assemblies when hub seals go bad. I recommend you open the hubs and inspect them for dirt or moisture. If necessary, clean the hubs out, re-lubricate, and try them. If the cogs and gears are okay and freely moving, the system should work again. If the vehicle is equipped with vacuum controlled hubs, the vacuum control circuit might not be engaging the hubs completely when they are activated. In this case, the system would need to be tested for vacuum leaks or faulty components. Success to you.
Tom

Tom,
First have a scan done of the control module for the transfer case. This module receives the 4×4 commands and sends the commands to the transfer case. You need to find out if the transfer case is being told to go back to 2WD. There is a shift motor that shifts the transfer case into and out of four-wheel drive. Once you scan the system for trouble codes, you can then use this info to isolate the source to an electronic control problem, or a transfer case problem.
Tom

Eric,
The recommended gear lube for your vehicle is 75W-90 rear end lube. AMSOIL makes a synthetic 75W-90 sold as “Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube” that would work superbly in your Morris Minor 1000. For any future questions along these lines, consult www.lubedepot.com.
Tom

Joe,
The injectors on this engine are electronically controlled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). The first order of business is to scan the system for codes. It sounds to me like you have a grounded temperature sensor or a faulty injector driver causing the injectors to pump raw fuel into the engine. If left in this condition for too long, it will damage the catalytic converter and you will have to replace it. The cat is getting more fuel than it can process, which will cause it to plug up with carbon deposits. Success to you.
Tom

Alan,
The HVAC box on this truck has to be removed from under the dash to replace the heater core. This is quite a labor-intensive job, and not (may I add) a job for the novice. Even with special tools and experience, the job requires about 4.5 hours according to the book. Bite the bullet and pay to have the job done. However, if you decide to do it yourself, my experience tells me that whatever the book time is for a job, double it (at least).
Tom

Sherrie,
There are a few things that could cause this change in pressure. The engine could be worn out; the oil pump could be bad; the oil pump pick-up could be plugged with sludge; there could be excessive clearance in the rod, main, or cam bearings; or there’s no oil in the engine. I would suggest getting the vehicle to a shop for an oil pressure test as soon as possible to avoid any further engine damage. Good luck.
Tom

Andrea,
There is a possibility that the vehicle was in a flood. A Carfax Report would identify it as a flood victim, if this were the case. There are two other possible causes for the smell. Either the condensation drain is plugged on the HVAC box (allowing the water to leak into the vehicle cabin), or mold is growing on the evaporator core. The system can be deodorized at a shop. During this process, they clean the HVAC box with an industrial grade disinfectant. If the smell comes back after this service is performed, then they have to open the HVAC box in order to find the cause of the odor. I wish you success.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association) and MPG (Motor Press Guild), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the SSI Radio Network Saturdays at noon and on Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday afternoons – 5PM EST, listen to the show on the live stream during regular show times at www.americascarshow.com. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘10 Infinity G-37 coupe. The tires were fine until it got cold outside. No the tire pressure monitoring system indicates that the tire pressures are low. The tires look fine to me. What’s up with this?
Delilah from Burlington, VT

Delilah,
Infiniti came out with a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) stating that tire pressures change approximately 0.06 to 1.0 pound for every degree drop in temperature. Have the tire pressures checked. If they are a couple of pounds low, it’s probably due to the temps dropping during winter. Inflate to the proper level and the tires should be fine. If one or more is found to be extremely low (5-10 lbs or more) the tires are leaking due to a hole, leaking valve stem, or rim bead leak and should be repaired and re-inflated to the correct level. Best to you.
Tom

Melinda,
It sounds like there is an issue with the wiring harness to the seats. Check the connectors to the electric motor that drives the seat. It might be short-circuited. As for the seat heaters, check the wiring and connector to the electric heating element. I think you’ll find your problem in the wiring or connectors. Good luck.
Tom

Big Wal,
Yes, the ignition coil could be misfiring, causing the drivability condition you described. However, the best way to track down this gremlin is to conduct a flight test. During this test, the tech hooks a diagnostic computer to the car’s OBDII data port and drives the vehicle while monitoring what’s happening in the data stream. This procedure helps the tech track down the cause, rather than indiscriminately replacing parts hoping to fix it. The cost of diagnostic testing is small compared to the “hit and miss” approach.
Tom

James,
Here’s the procedure as per GM:
• Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.
• Fully push and release the accelerator pedal 3 times within 5 seconds
• If the ‘Change Oil Soon’ light flashes, the system is resetting
• Start the vehicle
• The oil life indicator will change to 100%.
• If the ‘Change Oil Soon’ light comes back on, the system has not reset itself. Repeat the procedure.
Good luck!
Tom

Chris,
Make sure the rotors were turned when the brake job was done so that the pads could break in properly. Without a non-directional finish cut on the rotors for proper pad break-in, the pads will not stop the car properly and they will squeal. Also, have the pads checked to make sure they are properly secured to the calipers via the anti rattle clips. When the pads are loose, a high-pitched vibration ensues causing a squeal. Best to you.
Tom

John,
Injector? Injector wire? Third to the right from the front of the car? Three injectors showing? OVEN CLEANER?! What are you talking about, John? It’s obvious by your questions that you have no clue as to what you are doing. Back away from the car and close the hood! Drive to your nearest automotive diagnostician before you hurt yourself and/or the car. First you need to check spark and injector pulse in the cylinder/s that appear to be dead. If spark and injector pulse are present, then you should check compression in that cylinder. If it’s good, then try cleaning the injectors, but only try this procedure AFTER running a few more tests to confirm that the missing cylinder has compression and there are no vacuum leaks. Oven cleaner? Com’on!
Tom

Luke,
The visor is attached to the roof of the vehicle via a small plate with three screw holes through which screws thread into the sheet metal of the roof of the van. These are #2 Phillips screws. Remove them and the whole visor assembly will come down. You can then reach into the visor with a small screwdriver or wire to fish the placard out. Better find a different storage space. Success to you.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own an ‘04 Chrysler Town & Country and the corners of the hood just above the headlamps are rusting through the paint. The dealer says there is nothing they can do because the paint is warranted for three years. I had the van for three years as of this past April. Is there a recall on this rust problem? I have seen this occur on 2000-03 vans and just noticed it this week on my van.
Darren from Depew NY

Darren,
Unless you can prove that the rust is from inside of the panel, you will get nothing from Chrysler. The position of carmakers is that rust occurs from stone chipping or some other means originating from the outside. No car manufacturer or paint manufacturer will guarantee rust from the exterior chipping of paint. The prognosis? It will only get worst if you don’t get it corrected. And now that you have rust on the exterior of the panel, most body repair shops will not guarantee the rust repair. The most effective method of repair at this point would be to replace the rusted body panel. Success to you.
Tom

Winston,
Most problems encountered with outside temperature readings can be attributed to a faulty outside temperature sensor. This sensor is located directly behind the front grill and gets pummeled with all the rain, snow, ice, bugs, road projectiles and any other debris that finds its way through the front grill. Try unplugging the sensor and then start the car. The temperature reading should read –40 degrees. If it does not, this will verify that the sensor is faulty and should be replaced. If the sensor checks out okay, then trace the wiring for a short. If the wiring checks out, then the gauge inside the cluster is bad and the cluster needs replacing. Good luck.
Tom

Barbara,
This light is a “Maintenance Reminder Light.” The light comes on for two reasons: (1) As a maintenance reminder: You can expect the light to come on every 4,800 miles to let you know you are due for an oil change. (2) The brake pads are worn out. The pads have wear sensors on them and when the pads get down to the point of replacement, the sensors make contact with the rotors which turns on this light.
Tom

Ruben,
The window motor has a plastic tape drive. When the switch is depressed, the motor(which has a gear that is meshed with the tape) moves the window up or down. The reason why the motor continues to run? Because it has to sense resistance from the window seating either in the up or down position to turn off. The tape is broken and doesn’t sense resistance, hence the constant running of the motor. Replace the window motor and your problem will be solved.
Tom

ASH,
Most likely when the engine was washed, some sparkplug wires got soaked, which resulted in cross firing. Try driving the vehicle for about 100 miles to see if the miss goes away. If it doesn’t, get the car into a shop to track down the cause of the misfire.
Tom

Joe,
I hate to burst your dream world, but there is no “Reprogram Procedure” for this problem. A blower resistor regulates the fan motor speed on your van. The resistor steps voltage up and down, resulting in variation of fan speed. When the resistor blows or burns up, then there is only one speed left … high. Replace the blower resistor and you restore multiple fan speeds.
Tom

Linda,
The heater box will need to be disassembled and the blend doors checked out. There could be a duct door stuck in the heater box due to a broken door or shaft, a faulty vacuum motor that controls the door, or vacuum loss to the control box. As for the growling fan motor, have the fan case checked for leaves or organic debris. If the fan case is clear, it could be that the motor shaft bearings are worn and the fan motor needs replacing.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2002 Toyota Highlander with 33,000 miles. A Toyota dealer told me that “it is recommended” that I have the serpentine belt changed and the thuttle box serviced. These are dealer recommended services. My mechanic friend looked at the car and told me not to worry about changing the belt or servicing the thuttle box. In your opinion, when is a good time (number of miles) to change the belt and service the thuttle box? Thanks.
Peanut from San Dimas, CA

Peanut,
Many people hear the words “it is recommended” when they bring their vehicles in for service. This is a buzzword used by the auto service industry. Whenever you hear these words a bright red flag and alarms should go off in your head. You always hear those words used in conjunction with phrases like “engine flush”, “transmission flush,” and other automotive flushing or cleaning services. A simple review of Toyota’s service specs indicates that Toyota has no replacement interval for the serpentine drive belt. It should be inspected for wear every 15,000 miles starting at 60,000 miles, and replaced as necessary. As for servicing the thuttle box, does your Toyota Dealer service surfboards as well as Toyotas? A “Thuttle Box” is part of a special kind of surfboard, not a Toyota Highlander. If your thuttle box needs servicing, take it to a Ron Jon surfboard store for service.
Tom

Mary,
I’ve been preaching this for years! There is no “Transmission Repair Stuff” or “Mechanic-In-A-Can” that will repair a burnt up transmission. From your description of the color and smell of the trans fluid, the transmission is probably toast. The repair stuff” you added swells up the seals in the transmission, which renews internal hydraulic pressure for a short period of time. It stops working after the seals shrink again, hence the reason why it only worked for a short time. Have the vehicle towed to a garage and have them check out the transmission. You are most likely looking at a transmission replacement or rebuild. Sorry for the bad news.
Tom

Rene,
A leaking heater core has to be replaced. ‘Stop Leak’ just clogs the rest of the system up and causes the engine to overheat. Heater core replacement on this truck requires disassembly of the dash to remove the HVAC box where the heater core is housed. In short, it’s a very labor-intensive job that requires experience and special tools. The book calls for five hours to do this job by an experienced technician. You may be “handy” but this job is probably over your head. Bite the bullet and pay to have it done. You’ll be better off in the long run. Good luck.
Tom

Bruce,
Your Grand Prix should have a 4T65E transaxle. You car’s computer controls the line pressure in this transmission, which affects shift firmness/softness. If the transmission is worn out and slipping, the computer compensates by raising the trans line pressure, causing a harsher shift. Test-drive the vehicle with a scan tool attached to the in-vehicle data link connector to monitor transmission data. This will give you more info on what could be causing the problem. It may store a P1811 code in the future. Other causes of harsh shifts are stuck valve in the valve body, plugged trans oil filter, bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), high engine idle, large vacuum leak, and a host of other stuff that needs to be checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Gerald,
If the refrigerant charge is low in the system, then the computer will not allow the compressor to engage because it detects low refrigerant pressure. This is a built-in fail-safe to protect the compressor from running with no refrigerant oil. A garage will need to check the refrigerant level. If the level is low, they will locate the leak, repair it, and recharge the system with refrigerant and oil. If the refrigerant level is okay, then system pressure switches and powers and grounds from the computer will need to be checked for faults. Best to you.
Tom

Ron,
If the vehicle has traction control, it could be detecting a wheel slip to either the wheel actually spinning or (more likely) an antilock wheel speed sensor cutting out. The ABS/Traction Control system could be scanned for trouble codes. If the vehicle doesn’t have traction control, it could be a brake caliper hanging up or a stuck parking brake cable. Either way, you need to give this problem immediate attention. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own an ‘04 Dodge Neon that recently broke down because of a ruptured transmission oil cooler tank in the radiator. I took the car to a transmission shop and they told me that both the radiator and the transmission have to be replaced because the antifreeze and the transmission fluid mixed. Do I have to replace the transmission?! Is this covered under a recall?
Michael from Williamsburg, VA

Michael,
Yes, the transmission must be replaced. When coolant mixes with transmission oil and circulates through the system, the transmission suffers severe damage. Rubber seals swell up and hydraulic pressure is lost, and the coolant dissolves the glue that holds the clutches together inside the transmission. This condition is NOT covered under a recall from Chrysler. Sorry for the bad news. Best to you.
Tom

Karen,
At 330,000 miles it doesn’t surprise me that the engine is starting to exhibit low oil pressure. Bearing and mating surfaces are wearing down. Your question is impossible to answer without internal engine inspection. At the very least, have the crank, oil pump, and oil pan inspected for evidence of internal wear and proceed from there. This process will require removal of the oil pan and measurement of the crankshaft journals and oil pump, as well as an inspection of the oil pan for evidence of metal particles from internal engine wear. However, at such high mileage I can pretty much assure you that the engine should be either rebuilt or replaced with a remanufactured unit. I like the Jasper remanufactured engines; they are high quality and have the best warranty. Good luck.
Tom

Amy,
If you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine you will find the thermostat housing. The housing has two bolts that secure it to the engine. These need to be removed to gain access to the thermostat. When you replace it, make sure you thoroughly clean the housing and gasket-mating surface on the engine. Also, make sure the thermostat is installed right side up (spring down inside the engine) and you’ll be good to go. Success to you.
Tom

Bill,
In order to isolate the problem you must find where the sending unit screws into the engine (usually in a water jacket on the intake manifold). Once you locate the sending unit, disconnect the wire that plugs into it. Then ground the wire while watching the gauge inside the truck. If the gauge goes too hot, the sending unit is defective and must be replaced. If the gauge does not move after grounding the sending unit wire, then there is a problem either with the wiring between the sender and the gauge in the dash, or with the gauge itself. Good luck.
Tom

Cal,
The Ambient Temperature Sensor on your truck is located behind the grill near the hood latch. It has a round, black, two-pin connector with light blue/orange and dark green wires. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the processor inside the truck causing the malfunction. If the sensor replacement does not solve the problem, have diagnostics done of the circuit that feeds that function.
Tom

Richard,
Were the drums resurfaced when the brake job was done? If not, I would pull them off, resurface them, and sand the brake shoes as well. Also, grind the ends of the shoe braking material at a 45-degree angle. That will take the sharp leading edge off the brake shoe and stop the noise.
Tom

Ed,
Have the driveshaft checked for a stiff U-Joint. If it checks out okay, then check the shaft for imbalance. When a ding or dent damages the shaft, it can get knocked out of balance causing a drivetrain vibration. The condition of the molded rubber mount of the carrier bearing doesn’t sound too good either. Get the vehicle up on a lift and have it checked. You’ll get a vibration if that bearing is allowed to jump up and down within its rubber case.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Ol’ Man Winter is almost here for some of us, and for others he has already slapped you in the face! So it’s time to talk about common winter-related automotive mechanical failures and how to avoid them to save time, aggravation, and money. And most importantly, keep you safe.

Drivetrain Abuse

On snowy, windy days it’s easy to get stuck in a snowdrift, especially if you don’t have adequate winter tires or all-season tread. As a technician of many years, I have seen numerous drivetrains destroyed from abuse during a snowstorm; broken driveshafts and universal joints (as well as CV joints) disintegrated; transmissions cooked; differential ring and pinion gears literally sheared off; transfer cases locked from internal damage. Why this mechanical carnage? Because the operators of these poor, unfortunate vehicles refuse to call a tow truck when they get stuck in the snow.

When stuck in a snowdrift, many people get frustrated and start gunning the engine, shifting back and forth while keeping the gas pedal floored. They think they can “rock” the vehicle to get enough momentum to get out of the drift. What abuse! It’s like setting off a grenade in the drivetrain every time you reverse direction. Internal hard parts of the drivetrain (like sun & planetary gears, differential ring and pinion gears, axles, and differential carriers) are made of steel that goes through a special heating process during manufacturing. This process hardens the steel so that it resists steady wear over long time periods under normal operating conditions. However, there is one drawback to hardened steel. Although it resists wear, it is also brittle and cannot sustain hard and sudden shock. Impact of this sort causes stress cracks and sometimes shearing and twisting of splines, gear teeth, shafts, and yokes. Transmissions, differentials, and transfer cases fail under such strenuous operating conditions. Repair and transmission shops thrive when winter weather hits because of this carnage. Wanna stay out of the repair shops this winter? Call a tow truck when you get stuck in the snow. It’s cheaper in the long run.

Window and Door Abuse

Doors and windows are victims of winter’s onslaught too. After parking a warmed vehicle, ice and snow light on the door windows. When snow and ice hits the window it melts and runs down to the base of the glass. There’s a squeegee gasket made of rubber designed to stop water from going down inside the door. If this gasket is worn or maladjusted, water gets inside the door and soaks the door linkage, lock mechanisms, and window regulator. The water then freezes causing the lock and window mechanisms to freeze. The next time you try to enter your vehicle the locks are frozen, so you force the lock or door handle to get inside the vehicle. Suddenly something pops and the latch feels sloppy. My friend, you have just broken a lock linkage or latch assembly! The door has to come apart and the lock and/or latch repaired.

Here’s another scenario. You are able to enter the vehicle and you try to roll down the window. The window doesn’t move so you keep the motor engaged to get the window down. All of the sudden you hear a pop and the motor sounds like it’s running freely. You have just broken the internal drive of the window motor and it now has to be replaced. More unnecessary dollars spent. If you wait patiently for the vehicle to warm up, the window will free itself and go down effortlessly. Lesson learned. Or not?

Steering and Suspension Abuse

Snow covered roads conceal dangerous road imperfections. Driving through them can result in steering and suspension carnage. Deep potholes, speed bumps, curbs, large rocks or small glaciers can do massive damage to the underside of your vehicle, especially if it’s a car that’s low to the ground. Ball joints, control arms, and steering linkages have movable joints that are either a pivot design or a ball-and-socket design. Hard and shocking impact on the road can actually cause joint separation. I have seen cars after a snowstorm sitting on the side of the road with a front wheel folded up under the vehicle’s body! This is usually the result of a hard shock with a road hazard such as a curb, a pothole, or a large ice block. The moral of the story? Slow down, navigate the snow-covered roads with caution, or pay the consequences.

Windshield Wiper Abuse

A gentle snowfall is adorning the landscape. Caught up in the beauty of it all, you cheerfully get in your car to venture out for the day. You start the car and turn on the wipers to clear the snow and… nothing happens. Last night, after parking your warm car, snow fell and melted at the base of the windshield, encrusting the wipers in a mini glacier. When you turn on the wipers the next day, they are forced against the ice at the base of the windshield. Either the wiper motor burns up, the wiper linkage breaks, or the wiper arm splines are stripped when forced against the ice. This results in a major repair bill simply because you didn’t clear the windshield of ice before turning the wiper on. Remember, they are called windshield wipers, not windshield plows!

Save yourself inconvenience, time, money, and possibly your safety. Drive smart this winter season. Be kind to your car and it will serve you well. Happy winter driving.

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘01 Dodge Stratus. It’s difficult to turn the steering wheel when it’s cold outside until the engine is fully warmed up. It squeaks as the wheel turns and it feels like the belt is resisting my efforts. The power steering fluid was completely drained and replaced to no avail. What should I do?
Andrea from Foley, NC

Andrea,
This is called “Morning Sickness.” It’s usually attributed to a bad rack & pinion unit. The power steering fluid is heavy when cold, and a worn out rack or pump can’t pump the heavier fluid, hence the hard steering. The fluid warms up, it thins out, and then it can be pumped by the worn pump and through the worn rack. Have the steering system checked for hydraulic pressures. I think you’ll find you have a bad rack unit or pump. Success to you.
Tom

Rob,
No quick fix here. The EVAP system is a closed or sealed system that recirculates fuel vapors so they don’t vent to the atmosphere. To properly test the system it has to be charged with vapor then inspected for a leak. The device used for this test is called a “smoke machine.” Once the leak is found it has to be repaired to turn off the light and clear the code. Not a do-it-yourself project unless you’re a well prepared, well educated DIY’er with access to state-of-the-art automotive diagnostic equipment and the experience to boot. Good luck.
Tom

Kim,
Have the rear rotors checked to see if they are warped. If so, have them re-machined. Then check the rear brake calipers. They could be stuck which would cause brake pad drag. The resulting friction would heat up the rotors, causing them to warp and pulsate when the brakes are applied.
Tom

Bruce,
Check your owner’s manual and follow the recommendations. The engine in your car is turbocharged, so I would think it requires high-octane fuel. By using a low octane fuel in a high performance engine, you induce a condition called engine knock or pre-ignition. Pre-igniting of the fuel when it enters the combustion chamber causes constant hammering. Damage is done to the tops of the pistons, cylinder head face and valves. Spend the extra dollars for the premium gas. It will cost you less in maintenance in the long run.
Tom

Sonya,
Sludge is the result of oxidation of the oil. Excessive heat or poor quality oil causes this problem. Sludge is also a result of not changing the oil frequently enough. As for the puff of smoke, have the valve guides checked. With the high mileage, the seals might be bad or the valve guides are worn. Tips? Good quality oil has detergents built into it that clean the inside of the engine. Change the oil again and, this time, replace it with a high quality petroleum-based oil. I would not use synthetic oil due to high mileage, engine wear, and possibly bad valve seals. Synthetic oil tends to be thin and freer-flowing than petroleum-based oil and thus will burn more easily. I wish you success.
Tom

TJ,
It sounds like there may be a problem with the front tires (that were on the back). Run your hand across the tread; it should feel smooth. If the tread is cupped or worn unevenly, then this is the source of the noise. The tires should smooth out over time. Rotate and rebalance the tires every 6 months or 6,000 miles to keep this condition at a minimum. If the tires are okay, then I would check for a bad wheel bearing on the front of the vehicle.
Tom

Richard,
You have two options. (1) Replace the headlamp composite assembly with a new or used one (2) Remove the headlight assembly and drill a small hole in the bottom of it so that moisture can drain out. Over time this procedure will result in a shortened bulb life (but still longer than leaving the moisture inside the lens).
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Chevy Silverado extended cab pickup and the battery won’t keep a charge. I had it checked and charged twice this week and it did not start the following day. The shop said there was nothing wrong with the battery. I am selling the truck so I don’t want to spend a lot of money. I’m wondering if it would be all right to put in a rebuilt battery and let the person that buys it deal with the underlying problem.
Chris from Hanford, CT

Chris,
I would suspect a rogue parasitic electrical draw is sapping the life energy out of the battery when the key is off. To track this down, a tech will monitor the battery voltage while eliminating each electrical circuit one at a time until the draw is eliminated (at which point he will have identified the offending circuit). Then the tech will trace it out to find the malady and repair it. Otherwise, you will have to keep a full stock of batteries on hand! As for selling the truck with this problem without telling the buyer? Well that’s your call, Chris. Whatever you can sleep with … but I think you already know my answer.
Tom

Anthony,
Have the vehicle scanned with a hand-held scanner while driving it. That way the tech can see exactly what’s going on when the transmission downshifts prematurely. On this vehicle, the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) figures into shift strategy. If it is dropping out prematurely (either because it is faulty or because it needs an adjustment), then the transmission will respond as you described. Don’t change parts arbitrarily without first getting a diagnosis. It is an expensive way to go. Success to you.
Tom

Alex,
Hummm, raise the hood and find out where the engine noise is coming from. It could be a bad idler pulley, water pump, power steering pump, or alternator. Also, the engine could have a bad internal bearing in which case it will have to be torn down for inspection. At any rate, get it into a shop to be inspected before it breaks down and leaves you stranded! Good luck.
Tom

Shari,
Powertrain includes all components that power the car, IE: engine, turbo or super charger (if equipped), and all related engine parts. Drivetrain relates to the transmission, differential/s, axles, wheels, and anything that drives the car forward. Hope this helps.
Tom

Joseph,
According to the book, the labor for this job is 3.9 hours at the shop’s labor rate. The belt is $63.22. At a labor rate of $84 per hour, that calculates out to: $327.60. I would say that closer to $400 is more realistic (depending on the labor rate of the shop, of course).
Tom

John,
AMSOIL makes a good engine flush product that you can find at www.lubedepot.com. However, be careful! If the sludge buildup is significant then all of it will not be cleaned out and the problem will persist. If this is the case, then the engine must be torn down to remedy the problem. Toyota has an extended warranty on their cars for sludging (they call it “oil gelling”). You did not give the year, make, and model so I can’t be specific. However, if it is a Toyota product, there may be warranty coverage for this condition. Best to you.
Tom

Mary,
These cars are notorious for intake vacuum leaks. Typically, the lower portion of the intake plenum leaks due to a bad gasket. Have an engine vacuum test performed to confirm my suspicions. The reason for the lean readings on both banks O2 sensor? Because excessive oxygen is present in the exhaust flow from the vacuum leak. Success to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘99 Dodge Ram 1500 4×2, 5.9L V8 with 97,000 miles. If the truck sits for more than a week, then the transmission does not engage for a few minutes after I start the vehicle. If I start it and wait a couple of minutes, then it’s fine. There is no problem if I drive the vehicle everyday. What’s wrong?
Josh from Anaheim, CA

Josh,
The condition you describe sounds like ‘torque converter drain back’. Chrysler put out a check valve to install in the cooler lines to prevent the problem. When the vehicle sits for a period of time, the transmission fluid drains out of the converter back into the transmission. The converter must then be primed when starting up the vehicle after it has sat for a while. The check valve installation stops the ‘drain back’ and ensures that fluid prime is there upon startup.
Tom

Debra,
The oil-sending unit on that car is located on the engine just above the oil filter. Before replacing the sending unit, confirm that it does have a leak by installing tracer dye in the oil and using an ultra violet light to find the leak. When you shine the light on the engine, a bright yellow color will show at the point of the leak. Success to you.
Tom

Alex,
According to the ALLDATA database for your car, the vacuum reserve chamber (which you refer to as a ‘bulb’) is located under the hood on the passenger’s side inner fender well. It’s triangular shaped and has one vacuum line going to it. Before changing the vacuum reserve chamber, check for a broken vacuum line under the hood. When major engine vacuum is lost under the hood it affects the HVAC duct system operation. Good luck.
Tom

Audrey,
To program the key, you need to cycle the ignition key from ‘off’ to run four times without starting the vehicle, and ending in the ‘off’ position. Once you have done this you will hear a faint chirp. After the chirp, push any button on the new fob. There will be another chirp when the fob is programmed. Once programmed, cycle the key once (on and off) and you’re done. Best to you.
Tom

Fadi,
Get the van up on a lift and check the sway bar insulator bushings. They are probably crushed and the sway bar is banging against the underside of the vehicle. Chrysler minivans are noted for making noise in the undercarriage when the sway bar bushings go bad. Success to you.
Tom

Marian,
Chrysler issued a TSB on this very issue. Go to your local dealer and ask them to perform TSB #02-004-05
I have outlined the TSB below for you to reference when you go to the dealer.

GROUP: Chassis
DATE: May 27, 2005
SUBJECT: Creaking/Squawking Sound From Front Strut Area
OVERVIEW: Application of lubricant to the jounce bumper of both front struts
MODELS: 2004 – 2005 (CS) Pacifica
2001 – 2005 (RS/RG) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A creaking, squawking, squeaking, grinding, groaning sound from the front strut area while turning in either direction during low speed parking lot maneuvers.

The repair involves applying a special lubricant designed by Chrysler to the jounce bumpers of both struts. I wish you success.
Tom

George,
Check the door hinge pins by opening the door and lifting up on the bottom of the door. If it lifts up, the hinge pins are worn and need replacing. When door hinge pins are worn, the doors do not seal correctly against the body door cavity, allowing water to come into the vehicle. There are few problems with water leaks on these vehicles aside from worn hinge pins and worn weather strips, which tend to be the major cause.
Tom

Cathi,
Regular checkups according to manufacturer’s suggested maintenance schedules are a good practice to follow. Furthermore, new car warranty requires that these schedules be followed to qualify for warranty claims, should the need for warranty repairs arise. They are usually predicated upon mileage intervals. I have this done to monitor the health of my vehicle. You don’t have to buy all the services suggested, and you can get a second opinion before proceeding with a suggested service. Generally, maintenance is cheaper in the long run than dealing with problems as they arise.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 Toyota Corolla with 42,000 miles and the trouble light keeps coming on. I have taken the vehicle to my shop several times. Each time I am told to ignore the light because the car is running fine. Should I take the car elsewhere to be evaluated?
Mike from Kew Gardens, NY

Mike,
If Toyota wanted you to ignore the light, then why would they put it there? Pat answers like these from “professionals” irk me to the ‘enth degree! MILs (Malfunction Indicator Lamps) are there for a reason, to alert you when there is a problem with the performance/drivability system of the vehicle. Automotive computer systems, when they detect a problem in the performance system, flash a code and illuminate a MIL. In addition, they go into what is called “Limp Mode” that allows you to limp home until the problem is fixed. The computer makes whatever adjustments (within factory parameters) necessary to get you home. It is not a good idea to run the vehicle in “Limp Mode” for prolonged periods of time because other systems are compromised, resulting in further malfunction of the performance system. This usually results in poor performance, poor fuel economy, and sometimes system failure (leaving you stranded on the side of the road). Have the system scanned by a professional who knows what he/she is doing and find another shop.
Tom

Ben,
The outside temperature sensor is located in front of the radiator, usually in the middle of the radiator support. It is called an Ambient Sensor and is close to the Auto A/C Sensor. An Ambient Sensor cannot be cleaned, and if anything is sprayed on it, it must be discarded and replaced with a new one.
Tom

Terri,
First off, the Windstar was stopped after 2003, so you have a 2003 or older van (no such thing as a 2004 Windstar). I can’t believe what your tech did! Increased the fuse current capacity to carry the increased load of an electrical short? Unbelievable! An electrical fuse blows when power is shorted to ground. Electrical current increases dramatically and an electrical fire can ensue as a result. By increasing the size of the fuse you increase the risk of an electrical fire! Electrical shorts can be hard to find, especially since they occur infrequently. However, there are diagnostic aids available for enlightened diagnosticians to track down shorts and find a remedy. Take your van to a capable shop to solve the problem instead of turning your vehicle into a potential Roman Candle looking for a place to explode. A wiring diagram of that circuit has to be consulted and the circuit traced to find the short. Contact your local Triple A and ask them for the nearest Triple A Approved Repair Facility, and stay far away from the previous shop’s “mechanic.” Good luck.
Tom

Shawn,
Too bad you possibly replaced perfectly good parts before doing your homework. A thorough investigation will probably reveal that the serpentine belt automatic tensioner is worn. This part is a spring-tensioned idler pulley. It rides against the back of the belt through spring tension and applies the proper belt tension at all times. When the spring wears out or breaks, belt tension is lost, and the belt squeals. Replace the automatic tensioner and you will solve the problem. At least you have peace of mind knowing that the water pump and power steering pump will not fail any time soon. Sorry for the news. Best to you.
Tom

Yo Bro,
The switch (or button, as you call it) sends a signal to the TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) which in turn operates the transfer case shift motor, positioning the drivetrain into 4WD and back to 2WD again. A scan of the system is necessary to locate the problem area. It could be a bad transfer case motor, wiring to the motor, or wiring inside the dash from the switch to the engine compartment. I wish you success.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
My ’06 Dodge Grand Caravan calls for a tire size of P22560R16. I got a deal on four tires with a size of P22570R16 and the van rides great on these new tires. Can you tell me how the change in tire size affects the speedometer? How do I figure out the actual speed I am traveling?
Rick from Forestville, NY

Rick,
In order to confirm the effect on the speedometer and determine at what speed you are actually traveling, run the car alongside a car that has a certified, calibrated speedometer (police cars quality). When you get to 55 MPH on your speedometer (or any other predetermined speed), find out what speed you are actually going according to the other car’s speedometer. Another way to determine the effect on the speedometer is to put the vehicle on a dynamometer or take it to a certified speedometer specialist, but that would cost a pretty penny. It may be that the “deal” you got on the tires may not be such a great deal after all if the speedometer is way off and you get a speeding ticket! Good luck.
Tom

Frankie,
Definitely do NOT switch to petroleum-based oil. Petroleum oils oxidize when sitting in the pan over extended time. The best oil for infrequent use is one from AMSOIL specifically designed for infrequent use applications. The 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine engine oil has extra rust and corrosion control (marine-rated). This oil will be better suited for the extended time with low mileage application. Even with the AMSOIL I wouldn’t go past two years between oil changes. Also, it’s a good idea to start the truck at least monthly and let it come up to operating temperature to purge the oil of moisture. I might even drive it on an expressway to get the engine up to operating temperature for a half hour or so. Best to you.
Tom

Bruce,
Did the engine builder put a crosshatch pattern into the cylinder walls with a power hone to promote proper ring break in? Were the ring gaps staggered when they were installed? Was the ridge taken off before the pistons were re-installed? If the ridge was left in place, the new rings were probably damaged when the pistons were re-installed in their respective cylinders. Were new valve stem seals installed and the guides replaced or knurled? Was the engine properly broke-in (driven at various speeds for the first 150 miles)? All these items could cause smoking. I suggest re-checking the work. Success to you.
Tom

Alicia,
It all depends on how badly the wheel is bent. A badly bent wheel will result in worn steering and suspension parts and/or a shifted belt in the tire. It could also affect the way the vehicle handles, especially in heavy rain, which you get in Jacksonville. Get the vehicle into a shop for an assessment.
Tom

Kenneth,
It sounds like the transmission shift cable may have broken or fell off the transmission linkage at the case. If the transmission is stuck in reverse then it will not let the engine start because the neutral safety switch disables the starting system for safety purpose (it must be in park or neutral to crank the engine). Have the transmission shift cable checked; that’s where you will find the problem. I wish you success.
Tom

Carol,
The clock spring is an electrical contact between the bottom half of the steering column and the top half. This device completes the circuit for the air bag and horn. If you were to open the steering column, this device would look like a clock spring (hence the name). Call your local dealer and have them run your vehicle’s VIN. You may find that this is under warranty because it is a safety device. I would not take it back to your “friendly mechanic” as he obviously does not know what’s going on with safety restraint systems. Take it to someone who knows what they’re doing because your safety could be at risk.
Tom

Find Tom’s new book, “How To Make Your Car Last Forever” in local Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Walden booksellers. Find it online at Amazon.com. Great holiday gift for anyone who wants his or her car to run efficiently and last longer.

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Mini Cooper and the driver’s side window doesn’t work. When the window switch is depressed, I hear a mild humming/winding sound that still keeps going even after I release the switch. It will only stop if I turn the ignition key off. I have banged on the door and depressed the switch, but the window will not move. Does it need another window motor?
Ruben from San Antonio, TX

Ruben,
The window motor has a plastic tape drive within it. When the switch is depressed, the motor (which has a gear that meshes with the tape) moves the window up or down. Why does the motor continue to run? Because it’s an automatic motor. In order to turn off it must sense resistance from the window seating, either in the up or down position. The tape is broken and therefore it does not sense resistance, hence the constant running of the motor. Replace the window motor and your problem will be solved. Success to you.
Tom

Shirley,
I suspect you have a bad headlight switch because the cruise control switch is built into the headlight switch. There’s probably a bad circuit within the combination switch itself. Have it checked out. Success to you.
Tom

Tony,
The company is Auto Page USA. The website is www.autopageusa.com. The system incorporates a security system along with remote start, lock, and unlock capabilities. I saw it demonstrated at SEMA in Las Vegas. Very cool indeed.
Tom

Winston,
Most problems encountered with outside temperature readings can be attributed to a faulty outside temperature sensor. This sensor is located directly behind the front grill and gets pummeled with all the rain, snow, ice, bugs, road projectiles and any other debris that finds its way through the front grill. Unplug the sensor and then start the car. The temp reading should read (–40) degrees. If it does not, then the sensor is faulty and should be replaced.
Tom

Barbara,
This light comes on for two reason: (1) A maintenance reminder – expect the light to come on every 3,000 miles to remind you that the car is due for an oil change. (2) The brake pads are worn out. There are wear sensors on the pads and when the pads need replacing, these sensors come in contact with the rotors causing the light on the dash to come on.
Tom

ASH,
Most likely, when you had the engine washed they soaked some sparkplug wires which resulted in cross firing. Try driving it for 100 miles or so to see if the miss goes away. If it does not, get it into a shop to track down the cause of the misfire. You’ll probably find that the sparkplug wires are leaking voltage.
Tom

Joe:
I hate to burst your imaginary bubble here but there is no “Reprogram Procedure” for your problem. A blower resistor regulates the fan motor speed on your van. The resistor steps voltage up and down, resulting in variation of fan speed. When the resistor blows or burns up one speed is left … high. It is the default setting so that you have some fan function. Replace the blower resistor and you restore multiple fan speeds. No “re-program” quick fix here. Sorry. Good luck.
Tom

Linda,
The heater box will need to be disassembled and the blend doors checked out. There could be a duct door stuck in the heater box due to a broken door or shaft, a faulty vacuum motor that controls the door, or vacuum loss to the control box. As for the growling fan motor, have the fan case checked for leaves or organic debris. If the fan case is clear, than it’s possibly that the motor shaft bearings are worn. If this is the case, then the fan motor needs to be replaced. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2005 Chevy Tahoe. When I shut the engine off the coolant runs out of the truck. I have to replace the engine coolant regularly (3 to 4 times/week)! This doesn’t happen all the time. I took the vehicle to be tested and they put about 15 pounds of air pressure in it and found no leaks. What could be causing this problem?
Grace from Fayetteville, NC

Grace,
Some coolant leaks only show up under certain coolant pressure ranges. Get the truck up on a lift and check the underside of the water pump for water tracks. Sounds like it’s leaking out of the shaft vent hole. If this doesn’t work, then have a dye test performed. During this test, a fluorescent dye is put in the coolant. An ultra violet light shone on the engine will detect the source of the leak. Best to you.
Tom

Janet,
Coolant is going somewhere, probably out the tailpipe. Check to see if the vehicle is emitting white steam out the tailpipe If it is, the head gasket has blown or a cylinder head has cracked or warped as a result of overheating the engine. Have the engine checked for a blown head gasket. I wish you success.
Tom

Alan,
The HVAC box has to be removed from under the dash to replace the heater core. This is quite a labor-intensive job and not, may I add, a job for the inexperienced novice. Special tools along with experience still require about 4.5 hours to do this job according to the books. Better bite the bullet and pay to have it done.
Tom

Joe,
The injectors on this engine are electronically controlled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). The first order of business is to scan the system for codes. It sounds like you have a grounded temperature sensor or a faulty injector driver causing the injectors to pump raw fuel into the engine. Success to you.
Tom

Tom,
First do a scan of the GEM (Generic Electronic Module). This module receives the 4×4 commands from the dash and sends commands to the transfer case. You need to find out if the transfer case is being told to go back to 2WD. Once you find out what’s going on here, you can use this information to try and isolate the problem. It may be an electronic control problem or a transfer case problem. Good luck.
Tom

Eric,
The recommended gear lube for that vehicle is 75W-90 rear-end lube. AMSOIL makes a synthetic 75W-90 sold as “Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube” that would work superbly in your ’62 Morris Minor 1000. You can order it at www.thelubepage.com.
Tom

Sherrie,
There are a few possible conditions that would cause the oil pressure to increase. The engine could be worn out internally; the oil pump could be bad; the oil pump pick-up could be plugged with sludge; there could be excessive clearance in the rod, main or cam bearings; or there could be no oil in the engine. I would suggest getting the vehicle to a shop for an evaluation as soon as possible to eliminate any further engine damage.
Tom

Andrea,
Do a Carfax report on the vehicle to see if it was in a flood (do a keyword search of ‘carfax report’ on the Internet). Two other options: The condensation drain is plugged on the HVAC box allowing the water to leak into the vehicle’s cabin; or mold is growing on the evaporator core. If this is the case, then the system can be deodorized at a shop. During this procedure, they will clean the HVAC box with an industrial grade disinfectant. If the smell comes back then the HVAC box has to be opened up to find the cause of the odor. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘92 Olds with 94,000 miles. I have heard that it is not good to use high mileage oil because it will clog up the seals. Now they have come out with full synthetic 5W30 high mileage oil. Can I safely use this in my engine? Thank you and keep up the good work.
Bill from Ormond Beach, FL

Bill,
There is a seal conditioner blended into high mileage oil that causes old seals to soften and swell. This tends to temporarily stop oil leaks due to hardened seals. The problem? The conditioner rarely lasts very long resulting in leakage again. Keep following the manufacturer’s recommendations for oil and filter changes and you will realize high mileage from this engine. There is no need for high mileage oil.
Tom

Steve,
You did not tell me what make of oil you are using. Mobil 1 recommends every 15,000 miles, AMSOIL’s full synthetic says every 25,000 miles. Not all synthetics are created equal; some have shorter drain intervals than others. The two longest are AMSOIL and Mobile 1. Make sure you are using good quality synthetic motor oil before extending drain intervals. Success to you.
Tom

Jack,
Mobil 1 is a great product. The other product I would put in the same class is AMSOIL. As a matter of fact, AMSOIL tops Mobil 1 in performance based on independent studies at Southwest Laboratories. See the stats here: www.lubedepot.com.
Tom

Julian,
This condition is called paint de-lamination. It is the result of a lack of chemical bonding of the paint to the primer coat, and possibly the primer coat to the metal of the car’s body. Chrysler had this problem with their vehicles in the 90’s. The only way to correct the problem is to sand down, prime, repaint, and then clear coat the area affected. Good luck to you.
Tom

Charles,
EGR stands for “Exhaust Gas Recirculation” system. This emission control system recirculates exhaust gas to cool the catalytic converter and re-burn unburned gases in the engine (thus lowering tailpipe emissions). Ford EGR systems are problematic with carbon buildup. If the valve is carboned-up, then the EGR exhaust passages under the intake manifold and in the cylinder heads are also and must be cleaned or the problem will continue to rear its ugly head. I wish you success.
Tom

Rhett,
Because it’s cool and the public wants it. Do we need tachs? Not on all vehicles. I agree with you … oil pressure, ammeters, and temperature gauges are much more important. In most cases, tachs allow people to play Zoom-Zoom and make like Mario Andretti!
Tom

Lance,
Good question. Transmission fluid usually is changed at 35-40K miles with the filter. A lot of shops today have a flush machine. This device can suck old fluid out and pump new fluid in without taking the pan off. I do not recommend this procedure because flush machines reverse-flush the trans fluid. This process dislodges dirt and wear-particles out of the old filter and back into the transmission. Always change the filter along with the fluid when changing trans fluid. Good luck to you.
Tom

Rick,
Pre-ignition or “pinging” is caused by the fuel pre-igniting when it enters the combustion chamber. Using fuel with too low octane can cause this phenomenon. Other causes are extremely lean fuel mixture, a faulty knock sensor, excessive carbon buildup on the pistons and valves, and maladjusted ignition timing. Have the system scanned for codes. The tech will surely find the cause with this diagnostic procedure.
Tom

Gaby,
The acronym DOHC stands for Double Over Head Cam. Your engine has two camshafts, one for each set of valves per cylinder. Each camshaft controls the valve set on each side of the cylinder head. You’re welcome.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘98 Honda Accord V6. Every time I get the oil changed, I’m told that an oversized drain plug is needed which is okay because it’s relatively inexpensive. But I’m also told that I should buy a new oil pan, but that costs about $350. Seems to me that there ought to be an easier fix than a new oil plan. Got any ideas?
Melissa from Ft Worth, TX

Melissa,
Apparently, in the past, someone stripped out the threads of the original drain plug, hence the need for the oversized drain plug. The oversized plug cuts new threads in the stripped hole, thus sealing the oil pan drain. If you use a high quality oversized plug with a good gasket then there you don’t need to replace the pan (providing the service personnel are careful not to strip the threads further). The only other solution is to replace the oil pan. Success to you.
Tom

Donna,
The only engine that came in the 2009 Hyundai Elantra was the 2.0 liter DOHC 4 cylinder engine. The engine features Constantly Variable Valve Timing and it generates 138 HP at 6,000 RPM and 136 ft lbs of torque. As a matter of fact, the same powerplant is still used in that vehicle today.
Tom

Chuck,
Your truck requires a 2-wheel alignment. There are no adjustments for the rear. Sometimes the rear differential shifts right or left, throwing the thrust angle off and pushing the vehicle one way or another. Therefore I would get a front wheel alignment. In this type of alignment, all four wheels are measured, then the front is aligned referencing the thrust angle of the rear wheels; that way the truck rolls truly down the road.
Tom

Waddle,
Either the heater core is leaking or the heater hose that feeds into the core through the firewall. The best way to track down the leak is to pressure test the cooling system in an effort to force a coolant leak at the weakest point in the system (which I believe, in your case, is the heater core itself). If the core is leaking, the dash will have to come apart to replace the core. Good luck.
Tom

Grant,
The engine in your truck is a 5.7-liter Hemi. The crankcase capacity is 7.0 quarts. With a high quality oil filter the oil change should cost you about $60. If you use synthetic oil add another $30. For regular oil the recommended interval is 3-5K miles. For synthetic, 5-7K miles. Some folks go longer, depending on what brand of oil is used.
Tom

Dave,
There is no torque converter drain plug on this transmission. If you want to completely exchange the fluid then have it done professionally by a shop with a fluid exchanger. Before a complete fluid exchange, make sure the fluid is red and not dark brown, black, and burned (a sign of that the unit was overheated). If overheated fluid is evidenced, replace only the fluid in the pan along with the filter because a complete fluid exchange on an overheated unit can result in transmission failure. The complete refill capacity is 9 quarts. Good luck.
Tom

Leon,
BMW specifies BMW High Performance Synthetic SAE 5W-30 oil for your wife’s car. The crankcase capacity is 6.5 liters and make sure you use the same quality oil filter specified by BMW. The oil life monitor measures engine oil temperature, moisture content, and combustion chamber events (engine work). By measuring these aspects of engine operation the computer algorithm is able to accurately calculate the oil’s serviceable life. Providing you’re using synthetic oil as specified by BMW, I have no problem with this drain interval, because the normal service table suggests changing the oil every 16,000 miles or according to the oil life monitor. Don’t use anything but oil compatible with the BMW High Performance synthetic oil or it could result in premature engine failure. I wish you success.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I have heard both pros and cons concerning the need for Motorvac service. Please set the record straight. I have a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer with 35,000 miles. It runs fine. Do I really need this expensive service?
Joe from Colorado

Joe,
Carbon buildup in the upper regions of the engine is a fact of life. It’s just the nature of the beast. Varnish deposits from gasoline build up in the fuel delivery system, as well as carbon in the engine (a byproduct of combustion). The varnish inhibits the flow of fuel through the injectors, and the carbon buildup decreases the efficiency of the fuel-burning process. The sensors in the performance system read these changes and the system responds by constantly making adjustments. Regular Motorvac service (every 35-40 thousand miles) prevents these problems. The engine will start crisply on cold mornings, and you will continue to experience snappy acceleration as the car ages, as well as maintain optimal performance and fuel economy. I highly recommend this service.
Tom

Marla,
A few years ago I ran across a company that is of great help in this arena: www.mrwhizard.com. They repair/rebuild digital instrument clusters for a fraction of the cost of a new one. Most rebuilt units cost $189. I followed up with the owner and interviewed him on my national radio show. They are legit and do great work. Success to you.
Tom

Ed,
A dark brown color is an indication that the fluid is burnt. Not good. I would probably just change the filter and re-fill the pan rather than do a complete flush. When a transmission has been overheated, the glue on the back of the internal clutches crystallizes. When a complete flush is performed, the detergent in the new fluid removes the hardened glue from the back of the clutches, separating the friction material from their steel backings and rendering the transmission useless. I have seen this happen time after time. The filter change and pan refill will not affect the unit like a complete fluid exchange. However, it’s your tech’s call. Good luck.
Tom

Barb,
I’m not sure what you mean by the “sniffer test.” Perhaps a four gas analyzer? This procedure will only reveal if there are excessive tailpipe emissions; it will not tell you if there is water in the exhaust. These cars are notorious for intake and head gasket leaks, especially if the car is equipped with Dexcool from the factory. Try a cooling system pressure test to force a leak at the weakest point in the system, which reveals the source of the leak. If you find a pressure loss with no evidence of an external leak, perform a block test. During this test, the tech draws a vial of coolant from the radiator and mixes it with a special chemical to see if it turns color. If it does, that means there is exhaust gas in the cooling system and the engine has a blown head gasket. Another way to track down a coolant leak is to perform a cylinder-leak-down-test. During this test, air pressure is fed into each cylinder and the engine is inspected for pressure loss. If pressure is bleeding into the radiator, then the leak is a head gasket. Finally, a dye test could be performed. During this test the tech will add a fluorescent dye to the coolant, then he will run the engine. Next he will shine an ultraviolet light on the engine, and wherever there is a bright yellow color, there is a leak. Yellow droplets in the exhaust stream indicate a blown head gasket. Success to you.
Tom

VW,
Miami is a great car town with several BMW dealerships and import repair facilities to choose from. I would ask the seller if you could take the car to your garage for a pre-purchase inspection. If they refuse your request, find another car. As for whether or not it is a good purchase? Without seeing the vehicle it is impossible to say. Overall, BMW is a great product both in performance and initial quality, but used conditions can vary depending on how well the vehicle was maintained. A good pre-purchase inspection will reveal all areas of concern. Best to you.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a ‘94 Camaro Z28. The right front low beam light was out so I replaced it with a new one and it still doesn’t work. Any ideas? It was replaced with the same kind of light that came out. All the other lights are working. Thanks.
Chas from Lima, OH

Chas,
Now is the time to start tracing wiring and powers and grounds. Either there’s a break in a power wire or there’s a bad ground to that headlight bulb. The ground should be found on the header panel above the radiator; the power wire in the harness comes from the bulkhead connector at the firewall. Get out your wiring diagrams, test light, and logic probe, and start diagnostics. Be careful with the test light. If you pierce a low voltage/amperage wire going to a module you will fry it. If there’s no obvious ground or power wire problem, you might want to employ the services of a professional tech to avert damage to the system.
Tom

Debbie,
Nissan issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on your truck for noisy drive belts. The culprit was an improper pulley alignment or a faulty belt tensioner pulley. Get the truck into a Nissan dealership and have this TSB performed. It should solve your problem. Success to you.
Tom

Joel,
Continued use of low octane fuel (87) in this engine will result in internal engine damage over time. Low octane fuel will pre-ignite, which causes hammering on the tops of the pistons and cylinder heads and valve faces. The small savings you will realize from using lower octane fuel will come back to bite you with major engine damage and repairs. Your call, penny wise or pound-foolish.
Tom

George,
Aloha! I am not sure what you are referring to when you say “lower insulators.” There are no “lower insulators” to speak of. The strut bolts to the steering knuckle and the spring seats in the lower part of the strut. Did you change the upper bearing plates? They could be the source of the banging (this is common). That car is equipped with sway bars. The sway bar insulators could be bad causing the bar to bang on the underside of the car every time you hit a bump. Go over your work. I’m sure you will find your problem on one of these areas. Good luck.
Tom

Shade,
Wandering occurs as a result of: bad shocks, loose steering linkage, low tire pressures, and worn suspension components such as ball joints or control arm bushings. Get the truck up on a lift and have the front end looked over by a good tech. They will find your problem in one of these areas. Make sure you take the tech for a ride (make them drive it so they feel the wandering) before putting the truck up on a lift to help in the diagnostic process.
Tom

Dave,
With a hand held scan tool and a drive cycle. The hand held will go into the system, interface with the vehicle’s computer, and clear the codes. The drive cycle (a predetermined set of driving and operating instructions as outlined by the carmaker) will clear the readiness monitors that have flagged as a result of the malady it sees in the system. You will need to access professional auto repair info for this vehicle to perform the drive cycle. I wish you success.
Tom

Mandy,
Yes, I suppose you could say that an injected engine has a choke. It’s electronic. When the performance system senses that the engine is cold (via air and coolant sensors) it richens the fuel mixture automatically. When the engine comes up to operating temperature, the system leans out the fuel mixture to running mode. There’s no manual or automatic choke like in the old days; it’s all controlled electronically now.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 Dodge Neon that recently broke down because of a ruptured transmission oil cooler tank in the radiator. I took the car to a transmission shop and they told me that both the radiator and the transmission have to be replaced because the antifreeze and the transmission fluid mixed. Is this covered under a recall? Do I have to replace the transmission?
Michael from Williamsburg, VA

Michael,
Yes, the transmission must be replaced due to the failure of the transmission oil cooler in the radiator tank. When coolant mixes with transmission oil and circulates through the system, the transmission suffers severe damage. Rubber seals swell up and hydraulic pressure is lost within the unit. In addition, the coolant dissolves the glue that holds the clutches together inside the transmission. I checked my resources and this condition is NOT covered under a recall from Chrysler. Sorry for the bad news. Best to you.
Tom

Amy,
If you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine you will find the thermostat housing. The housing has two bolts that secure it to the engine. These need to be removed to gain access to the thermostat. When you replace it, make sure to thoroughly clean the housing and gasket mating-surface on the engine. Also, make sure the thermostat is installed right side up (spring down inside the engine). Success to you.
Tom

Bill,
To isolate the problem, find where the sending unit screws into the engine (usually in a water jacket on the intake manifold). Once you locate the sending unit, disconnect the wire that plugs into it. Then ground the wire while watching the gauge inside the truck. If the gauge goes too hot, the sending unit is defective and must be replaced. If the gauge does not move after grounding the sending unit wire, then there is a problem either with the wiring between the sender and the gauge in the dash, or with the gauge itself (defective). Good luck.
Tom

Rocky,
The interior lights in your truck are controlled by an electronic module. Either the module is not powering down the interior lights when the doors are closed, or the module is still sensing a door open from a faulty door-ajar switch in a door latch. Have a tech scan the system with a diagnostic computer in order to track down the problem.
Tom

Cal,
The Ambient Temperature Sensor on your truck is located behind the grill near the hood latch. It has a round, black two-pin connector with light blue/orange and dark green wires. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the processor inside the truck causing the malfunction. If the sensor replacement does not solve the problem, then have a diagnostic performed of the circuit that feeds that function. Success to you.
Tom

Richard,
Were the drums resurfaced when the brake job was done? If not, I would pull them off, resurface them, and sand the brake shoes as well. Also, grind the ends of the shoe braking material at a 45-degree angle. That will take the sharp leading edge off the brake shoe. This procedure should take care of the noise.
Tom

Ed,
I would recommend having the driveshaft checked for proper balance. When a ding or dent damages the shaft, it can get knocked out of balance causing a drivetrain vibration. The condition of the molded rubber mount of the carrier-bearing doesn’t sound too good either. Get the vehicle up on a lift and have it checked. If that bearing is allowed to jump up and down while driving the vehicle, a vibration will ensue. Good luck.
Tom

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.