This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.

Dear Tom,
I saw your article on AOL Autos regarding pre-purchase inspections and it was very helpful. I am thinking of purchasing a ‘73 Chevy P-10 (Original Ice Cream Truck), but it is in rough condition and needs restoration. It has some rust on the axle, brake lines, and leaf springs. The engine and engine block are coated with what looks like years of caked-on oil deposits. It has an aluminum body that is in decent shape visibly. I did not notice any leaks on the ground near or around the vehicle. I want to restore the vehicle for various events, but I don’t have much money. The work would be done the Restoration Company located in New Jersey (the truck is in Connecticut). Do you know a company that could do the type of pre-purchase inspection that you wrote about? Can it be done on location? The restoration company has recommended a compression test. Can this be done on-site? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Paul from Cherry Hill, NJ

Paul,
Any competent repair facility can perform a pre-purchase inspection on this vehicle. All that’s required is a lift and some basic tools. Ideally, you also should have a compression test and a charging system analysis (so you can see if there are any electrically problems). I also recommend an oil pressure test to make sure there are no internal engine problems. The truck probably has point ignition, so a simple tach/dwell meter will reveal any glitches in the ignition system. Also, check the brakes, steering & suspension, and the brake / fuel lines for integrity as these tend to rust over the years. A trained tech, armed with a complete checklist, should be able to give you a good idea as to the vehicle’s integrity before you plunk down the cash-ola for the Good Humor Man’s former ride. Good luck to you.
Tom

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Dear Tom,
I’m the original owner of an ‘86 Chevy Camaro with over 278,000 miles. I am having problems with my beloved ride that include cold cranking problems, the number one cylinder isn’t working, and there’s low oil pressure. I purchased the car new on November 28, 1986 and I have taken special care of this vehicle ever since. An ASE Certified Mechanic told me that the motor is worn out. When I try to crank the car it takes a while, and the colder it is the longer it takes. So these days I only drive it when necessary and when the temperature is at least 55 degrees or higher to ease the strain on engine. In the past, once I got the car cranked it would be good to go. However, now every time I crank the car, it’s like the first time. Also, it takes a while for the car to build up speed on the highway. When I depress the accelerator the tachometer jumps up, but there is no gain in speed. I would like to continue driving my precious car. Twenty-three years of faithful service and now it needs some help.
Bobbi Ann from Georgia

Bobbi Ann,
What can I say? Your beloved “Heartbeat of America” has cardiac arrest. The engine has to be removed and either be replaced or rebuilt. I would replace it with a remanufactured engine from a company such as Jasper Engines, so that the new power plant will be just like a new one (and at less cost than rebuilding the old one). As for the tach racing up when you step on the gas, check the transmission fluid. If it’s low, top it off and see if that solves the problem. If the problem is solved then you have a leak that must be repaired. If the fluid is burnt and dark brown or black, the transmission probably needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Your Camaro has given you many years of reliable service, now it’s time to either refurbish it or put it out to pasture. Only you can make that decision. Best to you.
Tom

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Dear Tom,
I own a 2003 Lexus RX300. I had a new battery installed in December and in March I had to replace it again! I drove the car last Wednesday, and today (three days later) it won’t start! I have had the car checked twice by my shop. They tell me the battery is good and every else checks out okay. Once I start the car, it runs well. I don’t shut everything off when I turn off the engine. Should I? I never had to do that on the last RX I owned. Could the security system drain a new battery in three days? This is almost enough to make me want to trade this car. On a side note, all the doors were closed and locked. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Rick from WNY

Rick,
Sounds like the car has a parasitic electrical occurring when the key is off. No, you should not have to turn everything off inside the vehicle when you exit. There is something draining the battery. Have the shop perform an electrical draw test to track down the cause of the drain. During this test, a DVOH (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) is hooked up to the battery. The tech will eliminate each circuit until the draw goes away, identifying the offending circuit. Then he/she will trace the circuit to find the cause of the draw. Good luck.
Tom

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‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’

For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com

Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, At Home Portals, and many other websites. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. You can hear the live stream of the show at www.americascarshow.com Saturdays at Noon EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com.

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Filed under: Americas Car Show, Buying a Car, Consumer Affairs, Vehicle Inspections, Vehicle Maintenance, Vehicle reliability, Warranty Direct

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