Engines Often Use Oil During Break-in Period
This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.
Dear Tom,
I bought a new 2010 Audi A4 in August of last year. Two months and 1600 miles later the oil light went on and the oil level was at the minimum line on the dipstick. It required a quart of oil. When I called the Audi service at the dealership they said that’s normal and that the Audi engine burns oil to the tune of about a quart every 2,000 miles. Is this true? I always thought having to put oil in meant leaking seals, gasket gone, or some other problem. What do you say?
Rod from IA
Rod,
Commonly, during the break-in period, an engine will “use” (not burn) oil. Why? Because mating surfaces are being established and metal is rubbing against metal causing friction. This process increases the operating temperatures and consequently uses oil. Now that the engine has 1500 miles on it, switch over to synthetic oil, which stands up to friction, heat, and chemical contamination much better than conventional petroleum based oil. If the engine continues to use oil at this rate, I would lodge a complaint with customer service so that it is a matter of record when and if the engine fails prematurely.
Tom
Dear Tom,
My job allows me to drive old police vehicles. They tend to have about 75,000 miles on them and the average is about five years old. They generally have preventative maintenance every so often (despite the age and mileage on the cars) but often times there are problems with the A/C systems. In my unit, when I put it on norm A/C, it throws out cool air and the fan works well. But here in south Florida where it gets really hot and humid I have to switch to the max A/C setting if I want really cold air. It works okay for a few hours, but then the fan is barely working. I’d like to be able to use the norm setting to prevent the A/C system from shutting down, but it’s just not cold enough. So what do I tell the folks at the service center when I take it in to get the problem fixed?
Christian from South Florida
Christian,
What do you tell the folks when you have your A/C serviced? Exactly what you told me! That will lead them to a system analysis including a head pressure test, This will tell the tech if there’s a stoppage in refrigerant flow (which I think is causing the freezing of the refrigerant regulating valve in the system). Also, check the air blend doors to make sure they’re staying open when the system is in operation, because a stuck or broken air blend door will shut off cabin airflow. Let the techs do their job. Don’t tell them what to fix or replace or you might get what you ask for and not an effective repair.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a 2002 Cadillac Escalade SUV and, at times, there is a mist emanating from the air vents when the A/C is on. I’ve taken it to an A/C repair shop and they found a leak in the Schrader valve. They replaced it and filled the unit with Freon. But I still get the mist at times and sometimes I smell cat urine (no joke!). Any suggestions? Thanks.
Ray from New Mexico
Ray,
Sounds like there is condensation buildup from a plugged drain in the HVAC box. When organic material (leaves and plant matter) get into the air intake at the base of the windshield, it rots and forms a black paste that plugs the condensation drain. This causes water to build up in the box and blow into the vehicle in the form of a mist. Have the drain checked and unplugged to stop the misting problem. As for the cat-urine-like smell, when water does not drain, mold spores grow in the evaporator case, producing the offensive odor. Try spraying a whole can of Lysol into the air intake with the A/C running. This will kill the mold and eliminate the smell. If it doesn’t, the case will have to come apart in order to check for a bad evaporator core. Best to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a 2002 VW Passat and the engine light keeps coming on. I’ve taken it to a shop three different times and they tell me it’s a vacuum leak but they’re unable to find it. I believe they are just clearing the codes. Can you give me any advise?
Peter from Savanna, GA
Peter,
The best advice I can give is to find another shop capable of tracking down such a problem. A vacuum leak should not be hard to find. Either a line or vacuum driven component such as a power brake booster is leaking, or the intake gasket or manifold is leaking. Have a vacuum gauge attached to the intake manifold and read the vacuum. If it is vacillating wildly on the face of the gauge there’s a vacuum leak in the engine, probably in the intake manifold. Try spraying carbon cleaner at the base of the intake. If the engine picks up and/or smoothes out then you have found your vacuum leak. Good luck!
Tom
‘‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’
For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com
Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com
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Filed under: Americas Car Show, Auto News, Consumer Affairs, Safety
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