Possible Causes of Dragging Sensation While Driving
This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.
Dear Tom,
I own a 2006 Ford Escape 4X4, 6 cylinder. It seems to drag while driving (it doesn’t glide freely). What could be wrong?
Ray from Corfu, NY
Ray,
Check the rear emergency brake cables. One could be stuck from rust, causing the e-brake to stay applied. Also, check the rear brake calipers for rust on the slides. When rust forms, the caliper stays in the applied position after the brake is used. This condition creates a dragging sensation and causes the brakes to wear out prematurely. After 10-15 minutes of driving, place your hand close to each wheel. If you find one that’s hotter than the others, you have located the stuck brake. Pull the wheel and check the brake. Success to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a 2003 Cadillac. The mass airflow sensor was recently replaced and the car ran fine for about an hour. The mechanic had put in a used part under my direction and the dealer said it needed an OEM part. My social security check doesn’t leave lots of room for trying various fixes. Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Ron from Orleans, IN
Ron,
I know you don’t want to hear this but my suggestion is to have a competent shop do a diagnostic on your Cadillac to determine the cause of the drivability problem. Arbitrarily replacing parts simply does not fix cars. I have seen this scenario played out thousands of time over the years and the results are almost always the same, leaving the customer with more cost. Contact your local AAA to find a competent drivability diagnostician near you. Best to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
The battery died in my son’s 2003 Saturn 300. He had it replaced and a few days later the car started running very rough, and all the dashboard lights were going on and off. Could the tech have caused this problem when replacing the battery?
David from Hamburg, NY
David,
Yes, a power or ground wire could have been left loose. Also, a battery terminal connection could be loose causing an intermittent connection (that would explain the symptoms you described). Get the car back into the shop and have them recheck their work before something burns up from a voltage spike.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a 2007 Silverado classic 1500 4×4 that I purchased new. I use Mobil One full synthetic oil and a Mobil One filter. I drive 5-6,000 miles per year. How often should I change the oil? Also, what about the transfer case, coolant, and front & rear differentials fluid changes? If I go by GM, the truck will be 6 yrs old when I change these. What about Z-Max? Is it worth the $20? I would like to keep the truck long after it is paid for. Thanks.
Ray from Buffalo NY
Ray,
In my opinion, the key to the automotive fountain of youth is to follow the severe service schedule for maintenance. If using Mobile One synthetic oil, change the oil and filter every six (6) months. As for Z-Max and other additives, if you follow the severe service schedule and use Mobil One, there is no need for these products.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I mixed green antifreeze from two different makers in a new World Motors, Merlin, big-block (540ci, 650hp in a 56 Chevy). I now have very small to pencil- eraser-size (thin) chips in the radiator and motor. The chips will burn with a match and they look like epoxy. Can this be from the antifreeze mix?
Joe from Clovis, CA
Joe,
Sounds like you have a fun ride there, ’56 Chevy with big block power mmmmmmm… I doubt mixing the same type antifreeze from two different makers would result in what you describe. Perhaps a call to both antifreeze makers would reveal more info. In the meantime, I would run a strong flush chemical through the cooling system and fill it with a 50/50 mix of coolant and forget about it. Good luck.
Tom
Dear Tom,
Sometimes, when I turn the key to start my 2000 Tundra, it won’t start. Everything lights up on the dash, the radio comes on, and I can hear the starter clicking, but it won’t turn over. It can take up to 4 or 5 times of turning the key to get it started. I just had the battery replaced and the starter checked and it was okay. I took the vehicle to the local Toyota Dealer with no luck. Every time I take it to the shop it starts right up! Can you help me?
Jerry from Atlanta, GA
Jerry,
This problem could be caused by a bad battery ground connection (at the engine block or frame), a dead spot in the starter (which might not show up all the time), or a bad ignition switch. In the case of a bad starter, after the starter spins over the engine, it lands in a dead spot in the armature windings. This results in a clicking sound. Try gently tapping the body of the starter with a hammer the next time it turns up dead. If the truck immediately starts after tapping the starter, you can safely assume the starter is bad. Sorry to say, but you might have to wait until the problem leaves you stranded. It’s very difficult to track down an intermittent electrical problem. I wish you success.
Tom
‘‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’
For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com
Tom Torbjornsen is an automotive expert of 37 years. An automotive journalist in good standing with the IMPA (International Motor Press Association), Torbjornsen is the Repair and Maintenance Editor for AOL Autos, Edmunds.Com, At Home Portals and many other websites. Torbjornsen is the auto expert of record for Channel 4 WIVB TV, Western New York’s CBS affiliate. Hear his radio show AMERICA’S CAR SHOW, on the Sirius XM Satellite Radio Channel – Stars Too – Sirius 108 and XM 139; Sunday nights – 10PM – Mid EST. Send your car questions to his website at: www.americascarshow.com
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Filed under: Americas Car Show, Auto News, Car News, Maintenance, Safety, Warranty Direct
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