Technical Service Bulletin on Honda Transmission
This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.
Dear Tom,
I drive a 98′ Honda Civic with 40K miles (automatic transmission). Lately the transmission seems to be amiss. Sometimes the car seems to downshift or lurch slightly. I told my husband about it and he asked me if the “check engine light” comes on, and I told him no. He said not to worry about it. However, I have a feeling that he is just too lazy to check it out himself. Should I be concerned? Also, my mom changes the oil every 3,000 miles on her car. Is it okay if we change it every 5,000 miles instead? Thanks for your help.
Deb from Little Rock, AR
Deb,
There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Honda for this very condition on your transmission (bulletin # 00-012). Call your local Honda dealer and ask them what this TSB entails. As for the mileage recommendation, if you are using synthetic oil, then every 5000 miles is fine. If you are using conventional oil, then stick with every 3,000 miles. Good luck.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a 2008 Dodge pickup with the Hemi engine. I switched to Pennzoil full synthetic oil at 20K miles. The truck now has 40K on it and it’s due for an oil change. I was told that Chrysler would not stand behind the warranty if there were an engine problem because I used full synthetic. Should I switch back, or is it too late?
Jim from Willingboro, NJ
Jim,
Who told you this? The dealer? Your Uncle Charlie who used to work on cars back in the 60’s? Unless stated specifically in the warranty or owner’s manual, this is false. The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act of 1972 protects against this sort of thing. It states that the manufacturer carries the burden of proof of any failure whatsoever. They must prove that the installation of the aftermarket product caused the problem. If they can’t, then you are covered. Period. Get the facts straight before changing back. By the way, changing between synthetic and conventional oil does no harm to the engine. Success to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
My ‘95 Toyota 4R is flashing an O/D OFF light. Also, I am having a hard time rolling the car after I stop for a red light. Could this be a simple problem? Can I still drive the car in this condition? I am not ready to buy another car yet!
May from Lands End, NC
May,
The light is on because the drivetrain computer sees an anomaly in the system. Have the vehicle scanned for codes to identify the cause and repair it. The fact that the vehicle has a hard time rolling concerns me. It could be that the transfer case is locking up due to an electrical malady. Get it scanned and fixed before you do irreversible damage to the drivetrain. Best to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a 2001 Toyota Avalon with 81K miles. About 20K I had the brakes changed to long-lasting, heavy-duty brakes. When I step on the brakes the car stops fine, but the front end shimmies. What’s causing this shimmy?
Mark from Camden, NJ
Mark,
Check the brake calipers to see if they are sticking. Also, check to see if there is a blocked rubber brake hose. Both of these conditions could cause the brakes to stay applied with your foot off the brake pedal, which would cause the rotors to heat up and warp. Rotor warpage causes run-out, resulting in pedal pulsation. Also check for worn inboard CV Joints, which could cause the pulsation as well.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I have a problem with my “service engine” light. Every time I fill the vehicle with gas the “service engine” light comes on. After driving the car for several miles the light goes off. I have taken it to the dealer many times but they say nothing is wrong. What could cause this problem?
Jean from Dallas, TX
Jean,
It sounds like there’s a problem with the gas tank vent valve, or the gas cap seal, or the evaporative emissions system. Go to the shop immediately after filling the vehicle when the light is on so that they can pull a code for diagnosis. Or you can schedule to leave the vehicle with the shop for a few days. Make sure the gas tank is low so they have to fill it. When the light comes on, they can scan for a code and track down the problem. Best to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I just replaced the drum brakes on my ‘85 Jeep CJ-7. I keep hearing a cyclical sliding noise (not squealing or grinding, but something is definitely touching) when I drive at all speeds. Also, the driver side drum overheats excessively to the point where I won’t drive the vehicle. I have tried adjusting the brakes significantly to see if the pads were too close to the drum, but that hasn’t helped much. Do you know what would cause this noise and what I can do about it?
Josh from Saginaw, MI
Josh,
Check the emergency brake cable on the side that’s overheating. It sounds like the cable has seized, causing the brake to stay applied. Other conditions that cause brakes to hang up are worn return springs, loose anchor springs, and leaking wheel cylinders. Good luck.
Tom
‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’
For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com
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Filed under: Americas Car Show, Consumer Affairs, Vehicle Maintenance, Vehicle reliability, Wear and Tear
Hello! Thanks for sharing the transcripts. Very helpful tips.