Safest Way to Add Antifreeze to Your Car
This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.
Dear Tom,
I’ve heard that there are several ways to add antifreeze to a car (some not so clever). Can you please explain the safest way to add antifreeze? I own a 2002 Chevy Cavalier. Thanks,
Wanda from Lubbock, TX
Wanda,
Start with a cold car. Open the radiator cap and top off the coolant. Then start the engine and, as the car warms up and the thermostat opens, top off the coolant until it is full. Re-install the cap and top off the recovery tank. If you follow this procedure, then you have properly filled your engine’s cooling system. Sometimes a vehicle’s cooling system has to be bled after filling the system. On such vehicles, there are bleed screws on the thermostat housing. If this is the case, make sure you bleed the system while filling it until all air is exhausted. One other thing, NEVER open the system’s cap if the engine is warm; make sure it’s cool. You don’t want a hot, scalding shower of engine coolant! Success to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a ’97 Town & Country mini van with over 140,000 miles. The dealer says I need a new transmission but it costs a few thousand dollars. I don’t have the money to buy a new car, and I don’t think it’s worth putting a transmission in this vehicle. I talked to an independent person who told me he could do it cheaper and he would give me a free quote. I asked him if I could just put fresh fluid and a new filter in the old transmission and he no, because it will cause more trouble. Is that true?
Lydia from Wilmington, DE
Lydia,
Yes, he is correct. Putting new fluid and filter is a bad transmission is asking for trouble.
When transmissions have high mileage and they’ve been neglected (no fluid and filter change during the life of the trans), there’s nothing you can do other then rebuild or replace them. It sounds like your van has high mileage and the trans is toast. I suggest that you try to find a used low-to-mid-mileage transmission for it. It will be cheaper than rebuilding your old unit. Call your local junkyard and ask if they have a trans for your vehicle. It’s built on the Chrysler minivan platform; Voyagers, Caravans and Town & Country minivan transmissions will interchange with your vehicle. Good luck.
Tom
Dear Tom,
If shop labor is listed at $75 per hour, can the shop charge $300 per hour if 4 mechanics work on the car?
Donald from NYC
Donald,
The Shop labor rate is $75 an hour regardless of how many people work on the car. Period. If the shop charged $300 for the job and gave that excuse, find another shop! They ripped you a new one!
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a 2004 VW Beetle. When I shift the car down it jerks (sometimes quite hard). It doesn’t do it all the time. Most of the time it shifts smoothly. Is the transmission going bad? I hope not.
Henri from Los Angeles, CA
Henri,
Your trans could be shifting hard due to burnt fluid, worn internal parts in the unit, torn seals, a faulty engine or transmission sensor, or a bad shift solenoid. Start with a computer scan of the transmission control module and go from there with diagnostics.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a 2002 Ford Explorer. I understand how the ABS brakes work, but why would the ABS be kicking in when not needed? The other day I noticed the light coming on as I was driving down the highway (I wasn’t even touching the brakes). I am a little confused and I would appreciate any suggestions.
Mary from Fairfield, CT
Mary,
Have the ABS module scanned for codes. When this symptom occurs, it’s usually due to a faulty wheel speed sensor. The sensor is “reading” a signal that the wheel has locked up when it has not, thus the ABS is activated on dry ground. Best to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I’ve searched for an answer to this question, and absolutely no one seems to be able to answer it. I own a ’92 Dodge Grand Caravan SE with 94,000 miles. Since November of 2005 (my last oil change), I have driven my car 1,000 miles. I drive on average of about 8 miles per week. Most of the driving is in town (stop-and-go traffic) at 25-45mph. I check the oil from time to time and it’s full and clean. How often should I change the oil when I drive so little? Many people say to change the oil every 6 months. That would mean I would be changing the oil every 200 miles. That seems ridiculous!
Ardis from Branchville, SC
Ardis,
Wow! Branchville, SC? I built a cable TV system in Branchville in 1984. Wonder if it’s still working? It’s a small world indeed! Believe it or not, the way you drive your vehicle is considered a severe service description as per Chrysler’s recommended maintenance schedule. Why? Because the engine never gets a chance to warm up, so it runs in rich fuel mode. When an engine runs in this mode gas spills down into the crankcase and dilutes the oil, diminishing its lubricating and rust-inhibiting properties. Change the oil every six months. If you want to extend the interval, use a top-grade synthetic oil like AMSOIL and change it once a year. Best to you.
Tom
‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’
For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com
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Filed under: Americas Car Show, Vehicle repairs, Wear and Tear
best way is remove thermostat, fill system up with water.remove top hose of radiator, pour the glass in that hose going directly into water neck on the intake then put the hose back on. have a booster pack or cables ready because engine with head gaskets leaking or blown isnt easy to start when system full of water. unhook cooling fan so car will warm up quicker.what you say?