Interference Engines – Keep A Close Eye on the Timing Belt
This weekly feature for Warranty Direct about car repair and maintenance is written by Tom Torbjornsen, the popular host of America’s Car Show on satellite radio. Below are some recent Q&A from the America’s Car Show email bag.
Dear Tom,
I own a ‘97 Honda Civic Ex with only 31,000 miles. I drive between 2,500 and 2,800 miles annually and I have never changed the timing belt. I need to know when I should change it. Some people tell me to change the belt after 50,000 miles, and others say to change it now regardless of the mileage because the car is nearly 13 years old. Thanks for your input.
Josh from Shreveport, LA
Josh,
According to Honda, the timing belt replacement interval for your car is every 105,000 miles. There is no time interval. Given the age of the vehicle, I would remove the timing belt cover and inspect the belt for cracks or broken ribs. If it looks good, then reinstall the cover and check it again in another 25,000 miles. Your Civic has an interference engine which means, if the timing belt breaks, the valves will collide violently with the pistons, causing catastrophic engine failure. Honda also says to inspect the water pump at the same time you inspect or change the belt because the water pump is driven by the timing belt. If the water pump goes, replace the timing belt too. Why? Because you have to remove the belt (labor intensive) in order to replace the pump anyway, and this should give you peace of mind, knowing you won’t be facing engine failure down the road due to a broken timing belt. Success to you.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I have 116,000 miles on my 2001 Ford Ranger (Edge Edition, 4.0 engine). When I start the truck after it sits overnight or after work (about 10 hours) I hear what sounds like crankshaft bearing noise that last for 2 seconds after the engine starts. Do you think synthetic oil will help prolong the engine life?
Ray from Baton Rouge, LA
Ray,
At this stage it’s a bit late to change to synthetic oil. You need to find the cause of the engine knock. Chemical changes and “quick fixes” don’t reverse the effects of metal wear and fatigue, which is what your engine is exhibiting. Perform an oil pressure test to find out if the oil pressure is low and go from there. If it’s low, then you need to partially disassemble the engine to determine the extent of the internal wear. My guess? You’ve got internal bearing wear, specifically rod/main bearings, and possibly the oil pump. Good luck.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a ‘96 Toyota Camry with 133,000 miles. The dealer says that it’s way overdue for a transmission flush. But when I go to my local quick lube shop they refuse to do it because of the high mileage. The transmission operates perfectly, but the fluid is dark brown. Is it wise to have the dealer perform the flush and risk having transmission trouble or just keep driving the car and hope for the best?
Sandra from Philadelphia, PA
Sandra,
The answer to this question is a tough call. On high mileage transmissions, fluid change is a crapshoot because one has no way of knowing the extent of internal wear. When the old fluid is burnt and worn out (dark brown), there is an increase in friction and thus heat. The excess heat reacts with the glue on the back of the clutches and makes it brittle and crystallized. When new fluid is introduced into the trans, the detergents in the fluid scrub the old glue away from the back of the clutches which renders the transmission useless. Take it to the dealer. Have them drop the pan so they know the extent of internal wear, and proceed from there. If the wear material in the pan is extensive, change the fluid in the pan and filter, button it up, and drive it. Don’t do a complete flush.
Tom
Dear Tom,
I own a ‘94 Ford Escort and the engine is shot. I want to keep the car since I know its history of repairs and maintenance work I had done. I checked out a Jasper replacement engine and they want $3,000! Someone told me to go with a salvage engine for around $400, and that’s much better on my wallet, for sure. How can I find a “newer” or more up-to-date engine that will interchange and work with my vehicle? Also, what’s a “good deal” for a salvage engine? Any advice would be MORE than appreciated!
Kevin from Palmyra, NJ
Kevin,
Your decision to keep the car and replace the engine is a good one, assuming that you have maintained the car meticulously over the years as you implied. To find a low mileage engine, you have to search the salvage yards. Higher quality salvage yards post engine mileage on the engine AND offer a good warranty that covers parts and labor should the used power plant fail within the allotted time/mileage of the warranty. Obviously you will pay more money for a lower mileage engine. If the yard doesn’t have what you’re looking for, ask them to go on the “Hot Wire” to find one. This is a network of yards that share their inventory with each other to better serve the public and move their inventory. Also, when replacing the engine, make sure you get the emissions-related parts that go with the new engine or you will have problems with the drivability and emissions inspection in your state. Good luck.
Tom
‘Til next time…Keep Rollin’
For more articles by Tom Torbjornsen, visit AMERICA’S CAR SHOW web site: www.americascarshow.com
Rate this article
(No Ratings Yet - Please Vote!)
Loading ...
Filed under: Americas Car Show, Driving Tips, Vehicle Maintenance, Vehicle repairs, Warranty Direct
Camry transmissions are built like tanks. If Tom’s transmission is shot, he can easily find a low mileage transmission for that year of Camry – while the Low Mileage Engines are long gone, the transmissions exist a plenty!